Day 1 — Porto to Póvoa de Varzim
Leaving Porto’s Sé Cathedral at dawn, northward along the Atlantic — the first steps of a week-long walk to Santiago.
Starting from Porto’s Sé Cathedral
I began walking at 8:00 am, leaving my hostel in Bonfim for the Sé Cathedral (about 1.7 km away). It was a relief to leave that noisy, cramped place behind. The moment I stepped into Porto’s historic streets, I felt a rush of anticipation — the true beginning of my Portuguese Camino.
As I neared the cathedral, memories of the violinist performing there the day before came back — a haunting, uplifting soundtrack to the start of my pilgrimage. I had come earlier to take photos and confirm where to begin the trail.
Meeting Havel from the Czech Republic
A young man with a backpack arrived seconds after me — Havel, from the Czech Republic. It was nice to have company at the start, though I worried he might slow me down. After 45 minutes, he stopped at a church saying he needed to buy his Camino passport. But the church was closed; I told him I already had mine, which I had purchased the previous day at the cathedral.
When he asked whether I would go back to the cathedral with him, I explained that my goal was to reach Santiago in seven days. We said goodbye, unaware that soon I would meet another Czech pilgrim — a woman with whom I would walk for three days.
Reaching Póvoa de Varzim
I continued north through Matosinhos and Vila do Conde, following the scenic Atlantic coast. After a long, rewarding day, I reached Póvoa de Varzim and checked into The ONE Grand Hotel.
If I had known better, I might have started from Póvoa de Varzim itself — my Camino would have been gentler, though perhaps less transformative.
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