USA — El Portal, California
Yosemite Grand Traverse: A monumental 105km high-altitude route across California's Sierra Nevada, USA. This very challenging 7-10 day traverse links remote southern park boundaries to iconic Yosemite Valley, gaining 4,900 metres. Expect rugged alpine terrain, dramatic granite peaks, and vast panoramas on this demanding wilderness immersion.
Distance: 105.0 km
Elevation Gain: 4900 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 7-10 days
The Yosemite Grand Traverse is a monumental high-altitude journey that spans approximately 105 kilometres through the rugged heart of California’s Sierra Nevada mountains. This is not merely a hike; it is a comprehensive immersion into the "Range of Light," as John Muir famously described it. Traversing from the remote southern boundaries of Yosemite National Park to the iconic granite cathedrals of the Yosemite Valley, the route encompasses a staggering 4,900 metres of elevation gain. It challenges walkers with high-alpine passes, pristine subalpine meadows, and some of the most famous geological formations on Earth. Unlike the more crowded John Muir Trail, the Grand Traverse offers a sense of profound isolation in its southern reaches before culminating in the breathtaking grandeur of the park’s most celebrated landmarks.
The Yosemite Grand Traverse represents the pinnacle of multi-day walking in the United States’ National Park system. It is a route designed for those who seek to understand the Sierra Nevada beyond the tourist-heavy valley floor. The journey begins in the Ansel Adams Wilderness or the southern reaches of Yosemite, where the landscape is defined by dense forests of red fir and lodgepole pine, eventually giving way to the stark, lunar beauty of the high-alpine zone. Here, the granite batholith that forms the backbone of the range is exposed in all its glory, carved by ancient glaciers into jagged peaks and deep, U-shaped canyons.
The scale of the landscape is difficult to overstate. Walkers will find themselves traversing vast plateaus where the horizon is a jagged line of 3,000-metre peaks, then descending into lush meadows where meandering streams provide habitat for rare alpine flora. The route is a masterclass in geological history, showcasing exfoliation domes, glacial erratics, and moraines that tell the story of millions of years of tectonic uplift and ice-age erosion. The air is thin and crisp, the light has a peculiar crystalline quality, and the silence of the high country is broken only by the whistle of a marmot or the rush of a distant waterfall.
Physically, the Grand Traverse is a test of endurance and acclimatisation. The average elevation remains high, often staying above 2,500 metres for days at a time. This requires a slow, steady pace and a deep respect for the mountain environment. The rewards, however, are unparalleled: the sight of the sun setting over the Minarets, the reflection of Cathedral Peak in a still alpine tarn, and the final, triumphant descent into Yosemite Valley with Half Dome and El Capitan standing as silent sentinels. This is a journey that demands meticulous preparation but offers a spiritual and physical reward that stays with a walker for a lifetime.
The history of the Yosemite Grand Traverse is inextricably linked to the indigenous peoples who first inhabited these mountains. For thousands of years, the Ahwahneechee (a branch of the Northern Paiute and Mono Lake Paiute) lived in and travelled through these valleys. They established complex trade routes over the high passes, exchanging acorns from the lower elevations for obsidian and salt from the eastern Sierra. To the Ahwahneechee, the Yosemite Valley was "Ahwahnee" (meaning "gaping mouth"), and the entire region was a sacred landscape deeply integrated into their spiritual and daily lives.
The mid-19th century brought a violent shift in the region's history. The Mariposa Battalion, a state-sponsored militia, entered the valley in 1851 during the Mariposa War, leading to the forced removal of the indigenous population. This period marked the beginning of European-American "discovery" and the subsequent romanticisation of the landscape. Figures like Lafayette Bunnell, the battalion's physician, were among the first to document the valley's wonders in English, though their presence was predicated on displacement.
In the late 1800s, the preservationist movement took root here, led by the Scottish-American naturalist John Muir. Muir’s tireless advocacy and his evocative writings about the "Range of Light" were instrumental in the establishment of Yosemite as a National Park in 1890. Muir, along with Joseph LeConte and other early members of the Sierra Club, explored the very routes that form the Grand Traverse today. They were followed by the "Buffalo Soldiers"—African American cavalry regiments who served as some of the first park rangers, patrolling the backcountry to prevent illegal grazing and timber theft. Today, walking the Grand Traverse is an act of following in the footsteps of these diverse historical figures, from the ancient indigenous traders to the early conservationists who fought to ensure this wilderness remained untamed.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for completing the Yosemite Grand Traverse is narrow, dictated entirely by the winter snowpack. In heavy snow years, the high passes—such as Post Peak, Isberg, and Donohue—may remain impassable without technical ice axe and crampon skills until late July or even August. Conversely, in drought years, the route may open in June, but water sources can become scarce by late August.
July: The Season of Water and Life
Early July is a time of spectacular transformation. As the snow melts, the meadows erupt in a carpet of wildflowers—shooting stars, lupines, and mountain heather. Waterfalls are at their most thunderous, and the landscape is vibrant green. However, this is also peak mosquito season. The "Sierran Air Force" can be relentless in damp meadows, requiring head nets and strong repellent. Snow bridges may still exist over creeks, requiring careful assessment during crossings.
August: The Golden Window
August is generally considered the prime month for the Grand Traverse. The mosquitoes have largely subsided, the trails are clear of snow, and the weather is at its most stable. Days are warm (20–25°C), and nights are cool but rarely freezing at lower elevations. This is the best time for high-altitude photography, as the atmosphere is often clear, though smoke from regional wildfires can occasionally become a factor in late summer.
September: The Crisp Descent
September brings a sense of quiet to the high country. The light turns golden, the grasses in the meadows go to seed, and the first frosts begin to touch the subalpine zones. The weather is crisp and invigorating, though the risk of early-season snowstorms increases. Water management becomes more critical as smaller seasonal streams dry up. For many, the solitude and the lack of bugs make September the finest time to be in the Sierra.
Weather Reality: Regardless of the month, the Sierra Nevada is famous for its afternoon thunderstorms. These "monsoonal" events can build rapidly, bringing intense lightning, hail, and sudden temperature drops. Walkers must aim to be off high passes and exposed ridges by midday when clouds begin to tower. Hypothermia is a genuine risk even in summer if a walker is caught unprepared in a cold Sierra rain.
Day 1: Fernandez Trailhead to Lillian Lake
Day 2: Lillian Lake to Post Peak Pass Area
Day 3: Triple Peak Fork to Lyell Canyon
Day 4: Lyell Canyon to Vogelsang
Day 5: Vogelsang to Cathedral Lakes
Day 6: Cathedral Lakes to Sunrise Lakes / Clouds Rest
Day 7: Clouds Rest to Little Yosemite Valley
Day 8: Little Yosemite Valley to Yosemite Valley
Important Notes:
The Yosemite Grand Traverse requires a high level of physical fitness and logistical coordination. Walkers should be comfortable carrying a 15–20 kg pack for multiple days over steep, uneven terrain at altitudes exceeding 3,000 metres. Acclimatisation is key; spending 1–2 nights at a base town like El Portal (600 m) or, ideally, Tuolumne Meadows (2,600 m) before starting is highly recommended to prevent altitude sickness.
Logistically, the traverse is a point-to-point route. Most walkers fly into Fresno Yosemite International (FAT) and rent a car or use the YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System) bus. Coordinating transport between the Fernandez Trailhead (south) and Yosemite Valley (north) can be complex. Many walkers use a two-car shuttle or hire a private shuttle service. El Portal serves as a primary gateway, offering hotels, basic supplies, and the last reliable mobile signal before entering the backcountry.
Unlike European or New Zealand trails, the Yosemite Grand Traverse has no hut system for independent walkers. This is a pure wilderness experience requiring self-sufficiency.
Wilderness Camping:
What is NOT Provided:
Securing a wilderness permit is the most significant hurdle for the Yosemite Grand Traverse. Yosemite National Park operates a strict quota system to protect the wilderness character of the backcountry. Permits are issued based on your starting trailhead.
The Lottery System:
Specific Requirements:
Strategy: Be flexible with your start dates and entry trailheads. Entering from the Ansel Adams Wilderness (US Forest Service) and walking into Yosemite can sometimes be easier than starting within the park, though you still need to coordinate with both agencies if crossing boundaries.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Yosemite Grand Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Yosemite Grand Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Yosemite and the surrounding Sierra Nevada offer a wealth of experiences for those with extra time:
Altitude Sickness: Much of the Grand Traverse takes place above 2,500 metres. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can affect anyone, regardless of fitness. Symptoms include headache, nausea, and fatigue. The only cure is descent. Ascend slowly, stay hydrated, and avoid alcohol during the first few days.
Bears and Wildlife: Yosemite is home to a healthy population of American Black Bears. They are highly intelligent and have learned to associate humans with food. Use of a bear canister is non-negotiable. Never leave your pack unattended, and keep a "clean camp." If you encounter a bear, make noise, stand tall, and do not run. Rattlesnakes are also present at lower elevations; watch your step in rocky, sun-exposed areas.
River Crossings: In early summer, snowmelt can turn small creeks into dangerous torrents. Always unbuckle your pack's waist belt before crossing, wear shoes to protect your feet, and cross at the widest, shallowest point. If a crossing looks too dangerous, wait until early morning when meltwater levels are lowest, or find a fallen log upstream.
Lightning: The Sierra Nevada is prone to sudden afternoon thunderstorms. If you see "towering cumulus" clouds building, stay off ridges and peaks. If caught in a storm, find a low spot away from tall trees and metal objects, and crouch on your foam sleeping pad to insulate yourself from ground current.
Navigation: While the main trails are generally well-marked, snow cover in early summer or fire damage can make the path difficult to follow. Always carry a paper map and compass and know how to use them. Do not rely solely on a mobile phone, as batteries fail and screens can break.
Half Dome: The ultimate Yosemite side trip. Rising 1,444 metres above the valley floor, the final ascent via the steel cables is a rite of passage. It requires a separate permit and nerves of steel. The view from the "Visor" is one of the most iconic in the world.
Mt. Lyell and the Lyell Glacier: For those with mountaineering experience, a detour to the base of Mt. Lyell (the highest point in Yosemite at 3,997 m) offers a chance to see the park's largest remaining glacier. It is a sobering look at the impacts of climate change in the high country.
Tenaya Lake: Often called the "Jewel of the High Sierra," this stunning alpine lake is easily accessible from the Tioga Road. It’s a perfect spot for a mid-trip swim (if you can brave the cold) and a picnic.
The Minarets: While technically just outside the park boundary in the Ansel Adams Wilderness, the jagged spires of the Minarets dominate the southern horizon for the first few days of the traverse. They represent some of the most dramatic alpine scenery in the entire Sierra Nevada.
Benson Lake: Known as the "Riviera of the Sierra," this remote lake in northern Yosemite (accessible via a longer variation of the traverse) features a wide, sandy beach that feels completely out of place in the rugged granite high country.
The Yosemite wilderness is a fragile ecosystem under immense pressure from high visitation. Practising Leave No Trace (LNT) principles is essential to ensure the "Range of Light" remains pristine for future generations.
Core Principles for the Sierra:
