USA — Glennallen
The Wrangell-St. Elias Traverse is a 160.9 km, 7-10 day expedition through the USA's largest national park. This very challenging route crosses a vast wilderness where three mountain ranges converge, featuring rugged peaks, immense glaciers, and untamed river valleys. Expect a demanding backcountry walk across diverse, pristine landscapes.
Distance: 160.9 km
Elevation Gain: 6096 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 7-10 days
The Wrangell-St. Elias Traverse is not merely a hike; it is a profound expedition through the largest national park in the United States—a wilderness so vast it encompasses 5.3 million hectares of rugged mountains, massive glaciers, and untamed river valleys. This 160.9-kilometre journey represents the pinnacle of North American backcountry trekking, crossing the heart of a landscape where the Wrangell, St. Elias, and Chugach mountain ranges converge. Unlike traditional trails, the traverse is a route-finding challenge that demands total self-sufficiency, advanced navigation skills, and a deep respect for the raw power of the Alaskan subarctic. From the turquoise alpine waters of Tebay Lakes to the historic copper-mining relics of Kennecott, walkers will traverse high mountain passes, navigate sprawling ice fields, and ford glacial rivers in a region where humans are transient visitors and nature remains entirely sovereign.
The Wrangell-St. Elias Traverse is often described as "The Crown Jewel of the North," a title it earns through its sheer scale and the diversity of its terrain. This is a landscape of superlatives: it contains nine of the sixteen highest peaks in the United States, the largest sub-polar ice field in North America, and glaciers larger than entire European countries. The traverse itself is a masterclass in geological drama. It begins in the lush, lake-dotted basins of the Tebay region, where the greenery of the tundra provides a stark contrast to the jagged, snow-capped peaks of the Chugach Mountains. As the route progresses eastward, the vegetation thins, replaced by the monochromatic majesty of the Bremner and Monahan Glaciers—vast rivers of ice that have carved these valleys over millennia.
Walking here is a physical and psychological undertaking. There are no groomed paths, no signposts, and no bridges. Every kilometre must be earned through careful route selection, whether it is side-hilling on loose scree, bushwhacking through dense alder thickets, or finding the safest line across a braided glacial river. The weather is a constant, unpredictable factor; even in the height of summer, the region can experience freezing temperatures, torrential rain, and dense fog that can obscure landmarks for days. However, for those with the experience to manage these risks, the rewards are unparalleled. The silence of the Alaskan backcountry is absolute, broken only by the thunder of distant avalanches or the cry of a golden eagle. The sense of isolation is genuine, offering a rare opportunity to experience a landscape that remains largely unchanged since the last ice age.
The traverse concludes at the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark, a hauntingly beautiful collection of red wooden buildings perched on the edge of the Kennicott Glacier. This transition from total wilderness to the remnants of early 20th-century industrial ambition provides a poignant conclusion to the journey. It serves as a reminder of the brief, intense periods of human activity in a region that ultimately belongs to the ice and the mountains. For the modern trekker, completing the Wrangell-St. Elias Traverse is a transformative experience, a test of endurance and skill that leaves an indelible mark on the soul.
The human history of the Wrangell-St. Elias region is a tapestry of indigenous resilience and short-lived industrial booms. For thousands of years, the Ahtna Athabascan people have inhabited the Copper River basin and the surrounding mountains. They developed a sophisticated culture perfectly adapted to the harsh subarctic environment, relying on seasonal migrations to hunt caribou, sheep, and moose, and to harvest salmon from the glacial rivers. The Ahtna were also skilled metalworkers, utilising the native copper found in the mountains long before European contact. Their deep spiritual connection to the land is reflected in the names of the peaks and rivers, many of which carry stories of ancestral journeys and mythological events.
The late 19th and early 20th centuries brought a wave of explorers and prospectors to the region, lured by the promise of mineral wealth. The discovery of incredibly rich copper ore in 1900 led to the development of the Kennecott Mines and the construction of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway—a feat of engineering that spanned 315 kilometres of treacherous terrain to connect the mines with the coastal port of Cordova. For nearly thirty years, Kennecott was one of the most productive copper mines in the world, a bustling industrial centre in the middle of the wilderness. When the ore was exhausted in 1938, the mines were abruptly abandoned, leaving behind the "ghost town" that trekkers encounter today. These preserved structures offer a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the miners and their families who laboured in this remote corner of the world.
In 1980, the passage of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) established Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, ensuring the protection of this extraordinary landscape. Today, the park is part of a massive international World Heritage site that includes Glacier Bay National Park in Alaska and Kluane National Park in Canada. This designation recognises the global significance of the region's natural and cultural values. As you walk the traverse, you are following in the footsteps of Ahtna hunters, intrepid prospectors, and early mountaineers, each of whom has contributed to the rich history of this formidable wilderness.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for attempting the Wrangell-St. Elias Traverse is narrow, dictated by the extreme subarctic climate. June marks the beginning of the trekking season, as the snow begins to retreat from the lower valleys. This is a time of vibrant life, with wildflowers carpeting the tundra and long hours of daylight—up to 20 hours of sun—providing ample time for travel. However, June also brings high water levels in the rivers as the winter snowpack melts, making crossings particularly dangerous. Mosquitoes and "no-see-ums" also emerge in June, reaching their peak in early July; they are a significant factor that requires mental fortitude and high-quality head nets.
July and August are considered the prime months for the traverse. The high passes are generally clear of snow, and the river levels begin to stabilise, though they remain subject to sudden rises following rain or warm spells that increase glacial melt. The weather during this period is a mix of clear, brilliant days and periods of "Alaskan liquid sunshine"—a persistent, fine drizzle that can last for days. Temperatures typically range from 10°C to 20°C during the day, but can drop to near freezing at night, especially at higher elevations. This is also the best time for wildlife viewing, as bears are active in the valleys and Dall sheep can be seen on the high ridges.
September brings the arrival of autumn, a season of breathtaking beauty but increased risk. The tundra turns a brilliant palette of crimson, gold, and orange, and the first "termination dust" (snow) begins to coat the peaks. The mosquitoes disappear, and the air becomes crisp and clear. However, the days shorten rapidly, and the risk of significant snowstorms increases. By mid-September, the high passes may become impassable for those without mountaineering equipment. Winter arrives early and stays late; from October through May, the traverse is the domain of extreme cold, darkness, and deep snow, suitable only for highly specialised winter expeditions.
Day 1: Tebay Lakes to Hanagita River
Day 2: Hanagita River to Sangre De Cristo Creek
Day 3: Sangre De Cristo to Bremner Glacier Approach
Day 4: Crossing the Bremner Glacier
Day 5: Bremner Mines Exploration and Monahan Approach
Day 6: Monahan Glacier to Tana River Valley
Day 7: Tana River to West Fork Nizina
Day 8: West Fork Nizina to Nizina Glacier
Day 9: Nizina Glacier to Kennicott River
Day 10: Arrival in McCarthy/Kennecott
Important Notes:
Planning a traverse of Wrangell-St. Elias requires a level of logistical coordination far beyond a standard backpacking trip. The primary challenge is the "bush plane" logistics. Most trekkers fly from Glennallen or Chitina to a remote airstrip like Tebay Lakes and arrange a pick-up or finish at a location with road access like McCarthy. Coordinating these flights with air taxi operators (such as Wrangell Mountain Air or McCarthy Air) is the first step. You must provide them with your intended route and a "drop-dead" date for search and rescue purposes.
Physical preparation is equally critical. You will be carrying a pack weighing 20–25 kilograms over uneven, trackless terrain for 10 days. Training should focus on weighted hikes, core strength, and balance. Furthermore, you must be proficient in "Alaskan" skills: identifying safe river fords, navigating through dense brush, and managing encounters with grizzly bears. Glennallen serves as the primary base for supplies, though Anchorage is the best place to purchase specialised gear and bulk food before heading into the interior.
There is no formal accommodation on the Wrangell-St. Elias Traverse. This is a pure wilderness experience requiring wild camping for the duration of the trip. There are no huts, no shelters, and no designated campsites. You are responsible for selecting safe, low-impact sites each night.
Camping Guidelines:
What is NOT provided:
One of the unique aspects of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is that no formal permits are currently required for backcountry travel. There are no quotas and no fees for camping in the wilderness. However, this lack of regulation places a higher burden of responsibility on the trekker to be self-reliant and prepared.
Backcountry Registration:
Regulations and Requirements:
Costs:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Wrangell Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Wrangell Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Wrangell-St. Elias region offers numerous ways to experience the landscape beyond the main traverse:
River Crossings: This is the single greatest hazard on the traverse. Glacial rivers are cold, silty (making it impossible to see the bottom), and extremely powerful. Always scout for the widest, most braided section of the river. Cross in the early morning when meltwater is at its lowest. Use the "triangle" method for groups or a sturdy pole for individuals. If in doubt, do not cross; wait for water levels to drop or find an alternative route.
Bear Safety: Wrangell-St. Elias is home to both black bears and grizzly (brown) bears. Encounters are common. Make noise while travelling, especially in dense brush or near rushing water. Carry bear spray in an accessible location and know how to use it. Store all food, rubbish, and scented items in bear canisters. If you see a bear, stay calm, identify yourself as human by speaking in a low voice, and slowly back away. Never run.
Glacier Travel: Crossing the Bremner and Monahan Glaciers requires knowledge of crevasse rescue and ice navigation. Even "dry" glaciers can have hidden hazards. Use crampons for traction and be wary of "snow bridges" that may conceal deep fissures. If you are not experienced in glacier travel, consider hiring a guide for these sections or taking a specialised course before your trip.
Weather and Hypothermia: Hypothermia is a year-round risk in Alaska. Wet, windy conditions at 10°C can be more dangerous than dry cold at -10°C. Always have your hardshell layers accessible. Monitor group members for signs of the "umbles" (stumbling, mumbling, fumbling), which indicate early-stage hypothermia. Carry a high-calorie snack and a warm drink to boost core temperature.
Emergency Communication: There is no mobile phone coverage in the park. A satellite communication device (InReach, Zoleo, or Sat Phone) is mandatory. Ensure you have the contact numbers for the NPS Dispatch and your air taxi operator programmed into the device.
The Bremner Gold District: Located in the middle of the traverse, this historic district contains the remains of several gold mines from the 1930s. The Lucky Girl Mine and the Yellow Band Mine feature remarkably preserved cabins, rusted machinery, and even old bunkhouses. It is a surreal experience to find these industrial relics in such a remote, high-alpine setting. Spend an extra half-day here to soak in the history and imagine the effort required to transport equipment to this location.
Tebay Lakes Fishing: If you have a valid Alaskan fishing licence, the Tebay Lakes offer excellent opportunities for catching rainbow trout and lake trout. The crystal-clear waters are a stark contrast to the silty glacial rivers found elsewhere on the route. It is a perfect place to spend an extra day at the beginning of your trip to acclimatise and enjoy the scenery.
Hanagita Valley Wildlife Viewing: This broad, U-shaped valley is a major corridor for wildlife. It is one of the best places in the park to spot caribou herds during their seasonal migrations. The open terrain also makes it easier to spot grizzly bears and wolves from a safe distance. Bring a good pair of binoculars and spend time glassing the slopes in the early morning and late evening.
The Nizina Icefall: As you approach the end of the traverse, the Nizina Glacier provides a spectacular display of glaciological power. The icefall, where the glacier tumbles over a steep rock step, creates a chaotic landscape of massive seracs and deep blue crevasses. While too dangerous to enter, the viewpoints from the surrounding ridges are some of the most dramatic in the entire park.
The Wrangell-St. Elias wilderness is a fragile ecosystem where the scars of human impact can last for centuries. The short growing season means that trampled tundra may take decades to recover. As a visitor to this pristine environment, you have a moral and legal obligation to follow Leave No Trace principles to the highest standard.
Key Principles for the Traverse:
By following these guidelines, you ensure that the Wrangell-St. Elias Traverse remains a true wilderness for those who follow in your footsteps. Leave only footprints, take only photographs, and keep the wild, wild.
