New Zealand — Taumaranui
Paddle New Zealand's Whanganui River on this 145km, 5-day moderate route. This unique water-based Great Walk winds through the North Island's heartland, showcasing ancient Māori heritage and pristine riverine landscapes. Glide past lush forests and dramatic gorges, encountering a rich tapestry of history and natural beauty along the nation's longest navigable waterway.
Distance: 145.0 km
Elevation Gain: 250 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 5 days
The Whanganui Journey is New Zealand's only Great Walk that primarily takes place on water, offering a unique and immersive experience through the heart of the North Island's Northland region. This 145 km, 5-day adventure follows the Whanganui River, the longest navigable river in New Zealand, from its headwaters near Taumarunui to the coastal settlement of Pipiriki. Unlike other Great Walks, the Whanganui Journey is not a wilderness trek but a journey through a landscape rich in Māori history, cultural significance, and natural beauty. It's a chance to connect with the spirit of the river, explore its stories, and witness the changing scenery from remote bush-clad gorges to more settled farmlands.
The Whanganui Journey offers a profoundly different Great Walk experience. Instead of alpine passes and dense forests, you'll navigate the gentle currents of the Whanganui River, a waterway revered by Māori as Te Awa Tupua – a living entity with its own spiritual power and ancestral connections. The journey begins in the small town of Taumarunui, where the river is still relatively young and the surrounding landscape is a mix of farmland and native bush. As you paddle downstream, the river carves its way through increasingly dramatic gorges, flanked by towering native trees, fern-filled gullies, and the occasional glimpse of historic Māori pā sites and settlements.
This is a journey of discovery, both of the natural environment and of the rich cultural heritage that permeates the Whanganui River catchment. You'll pass through areas of deep spiritual significance to the iwi (tribes) of the river, learning about the legends, traditions, and the ongoing efforts to protect and revitalise this taonga (treasure). The pace is dictated by the river's flow, allowing ample time for reflection, photography, and interaction with the local communities you encounter along the way.
The journey is suitable for a range of fitness levels, as the primary mode of transport is by canoe, kayak, or guided boat. While some paddling experience is beneficial, the river's gentle gradient means it's accessible to beginners. The accommodation options vary, from basic DOC campsites and huts to more comfortable lodges, offering a chance to experience the river at different levels of immersion. The Whanganui Journey is more than just a walk; it's a cultural immersion, a historical exploration, and a serene passage through one of New Zealand's most cherished waterways.
The Whanganui River has been a vital artery for Māori for centuries. Its waters provided sustenance, transport, and a spiritual connection to the land. The river is considered Te Awa Tupua, a single, unified, and living entity, recognised by the New Zealand government in 2017 with the granting of legal personhood. This landmark decision acknowledged the deep spiritual and cultural significance of the river to the Whanganui iwi, including Ngāti Rangi, Ngāti Hau, Whanganui, Ngā Rauru, and Te Āti Haunui-a-Pāpārangi.
The river was a crucial travel route, connecting inland communities with the coast. Māori developed sophisticated methods of navigating its currents, using waka (canoes) to transport goods, people, and pounamu (greenstone). Numerous pā sites and settlements dotted the riverbanks, testament to its importance as a centre of life and activity. The stories and legends associated with the Whanganui River are numerous, speaking of gods, ancestors, and the very creation of the landscape.
European settlement brought changes, with the river becoming a route for traders and missionaries. The development of paddle steamers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries opened up the river to a wider range of transport, bringing goods and people to remote settlements. However, the advent of roading and later, the decline of river trade, saw many of these communities become more isolated. The establishment of the Whanganui River as a Great Walk in 1989 was a significant step in recognising its unique value, not just as a natural asset but as a living cultural landscape.
Today, the journey is managed in partnership between the Department of Conservation (DOC) and the iwi of the Whanganui River, ensuring that the cultural heritage and spiritual significance of Te Awa Tupua are respected and protected. This collaborative approach ensures that visitors can experience the river's stories and its living essence.
The Whanganui Journey is accessible year-round, but the Great Walks season (late October to April) offers the most comfortable conditions and full access to facilities. Outside this period, some facilities may be closed or have reduced services, and weather can be more unpredictable.
Spring (Late October – November): The landscape bursts into life with new growth. Birdsong is abundant, and the weather is generally mild, though rain is still common. This is a good time to avoid the peak summer crowds and sandflies.
Summer (December – February): The warmest months offer long daylight hours, ideal for extended paddling and exploration. However, this is also peak season for sandflies, and accommodation can book up quickly. River levels are generally stable, making for pleasant paddling.
Autumn (March – April): The colours of the native bush change, offering beautiful scenery. The weather is often settled and crisp, with fewer sandflies than in summer. This is a popular time for those seeking a quieter experience.
Winter (May – September): While the river is navigable, winter brings cooler temperatures, shorter daylight hours, and a higher chance of rain and fog. Some campsites and huts may have limited facilities, and private lodges may be closed. However, winter offers a unique, serene experience with fewer visitors and a dramatic, moody atmosphere.
Weather: The Whanganui region experiences a temperate climate. Rainfall is distributed throughout the year, and fog can be common, especially in the upper reaches and gorges. Temperatures typically range from 10°C to 25°C during the warmer months and 5°C to 15°C in winter. Always be prepared for changeable weather, including rain, wind, and cooler temperatures, regardless of the season.
Day 1: Taumarunui to Ōhura Road Bridge
Day 2: Ōhura Road Bridge to Piriaka (or nearby campsite)
Day 3: Piriaka to Atene Viewpoint (or nearby campsite)
Day 4: Atene Viewpoint to Ranana (or nearby campsite)
Day 5: Ranana to Pipiriki
Important Notes:
The Whanganui Journey requires careful planning, particularly regarding transport and accommodation. Taumarunui is the primary starting point and is accessible by road and rail. From Taumarunui, you will need to arrange for canoe or kayak hire and a shuttle service to your chosen launch point. Similarly, at your destination (typically Pipiriki), you'll need to arrange transport back to Taumarunui or your next destination.
Taumarunui offers basic amenities, including accommodation, food supplies, and outdoor gear shops. It's advisable to stock up on all your food and supplies here, as options are limited further down the river. For those opting for a guided trip, many operators will handle logistics such as equipment hire, shuttles, and accommodation bookings.
Consider the time of year you wish to travel. The Great Walks season (late October to April) offers the best weather and full facility access, but also higher demand. Booking accommodation and transport well in advance is crucial, especially for popular periods.
Accommodation along the Whanganui Journey is varied and caters to different preferences and budgets. It is essential to book all accommodation in advance, particularly during the Great Walks season.
Department of Conservation (DOC) Huts and Campsites:
Private Lodges and Motels:
What's NOT Provided:
While the Whanganui Journey is a Great Walk, it operates differently from the more remote, track-based Great Walks. Permits are required for overnight stays in Department of Conservation (DOC) huts and campsites along the river. These can be booked online through the DOC website.
Booking Process:
Fees:
Outside the Great Walks Season: While bookings are still recommended for DOC facilities outside the peak season, some may operate on a first-come, first-served basis or have reduced services. It's always best to check the DOC website for the most up-to-date information.
Guided Trips: If you book a guided trip, the operator will typically handle all necessary permits and bookings for accommodation and transport as part of the package.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Whanganui Journey (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Whanganui Journey, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Whanganui River region offers a wealth of activities beyond the river journey itself:
River Safety:
Weather:
Sandflies:
Communication:
Cultural Respect:
Emergency Contacts:
The Bridge to Nowhere: This iconic, albeit somewhat ironic, landmark is a significant detour from the main river journey. Located deep within the Matemateonga State Forest, the concrete bridge spans the Mangapurua Stream, a tributary of the Whanganui River. It was built in the 1930s to serve a failed soldier settlement scheme. Access is typically via a walk from the riverbank, requiring a full day or an overnight camp. The walk itself is through beautiful native bush, offering a different perspective on the region's history and natural environment.
Atene Viewpoint and Church: Near the settlement of Atene, a short walk leads to a viewpoint offering panoramic vistas of the Whanganui River and its surrounding gorges. The historic Atene Church, a beautifully preserved Māori church, is also a point of interest in this area, reflecting the enduring cultural presence along the river.
Ranana Māori Village: Ranana is a significant Māori settlement with a rich history. Visitors can learn about the river's cultural heritage, visit the local marae (with prior arrangement), and gain insights into the ongoing efforts to preserve the river's spiritual and cultural significance. The community often welcomes visitors who show respect for their traditions.
Pipiriki: The traditional end point for many river journeys, Pipiriki is a small settlement with a DOC visitor centre and facilities. It's a good place to reflect on your journey and arrange onward transport. The area around Pipiriki also offers opportunities for short walks and exploring the local environment.
Historic Pā Sites: Throughout the journey, keep an eye out for the remnants of ancient Māori pā (fortified villages) on the hilltops and riverbanks. These sites are a reminder of the river's long history as a vital transportation and settlement route.
The Whanganui River is a living entity, Te Awa Tupua, and its preservation is a shared responsibility. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is paramount to protecting its natural beauty and cultural integrity.
By following these principles, you contribute to the ongoing health and cultural significance of the Whanganui River for generations to come.
