UK — Glasgow
Walk Scotland's iconic West Highland Way, a 154 km moderate trek from Milngavie to Fort William. This historic route, the UK's first long-distance path, offers a diverse landscape from pastoral Lowlands to rugged Highlands. Traverse heather-clad moorland, follow loch shores, and ascend into dramatic mountain scenery, culminating at the foot of Ben Nevis. A classic Scottish walking experience over 5-9 days.
Distance: 154.0 km
Elevation Gain: 4760 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 5-9 days
The West Highland Way is the definitive Scottish trekking experience—a 154 km odyssey that traverses the dramatic transition from the pastoral Lowlands to the rugged, mist-shrouded peaks of the Highlands. Established in 1980 as Scotland's first official long-distance route, it begins in the suburban town of Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, and concludes at the foot of Ben Nevis in Fort William. The trail is a masterclass in geographical diversity, leading walkers along the "bonnie banks" of Loch Lomond, across the vast and desolate expanse of Rannoch Moor, through the hauntingly beautiful Glen Coe, and over the high mountain passes that guard the approach to the outdoor capital of the UK. This is not merely a walk; it is a pilgrimage through the heart of Scottish history, folklore, and wilderness.
The West Highland Way is a journey of increasing intensity. It begins with gentle, rolling terrain through the Mugdock Country Park and the farmlands of Stirlingshire, allowing walkers to find their rhythm before the landscape begins to buckle and rise. The first major milestone is Conic Hill, which marks the Highland Boundary Fault—the literal geological line where the Lowlands end and the Highlands begin. From this vantage point, the scale of Loch Lomond reveals itself, dotted with islands that trace the fault line across the water.
The middle section of the trail is defined by the shores of Loch Lomond. While the southern banks offer easy walking, the northern section—often referred to as the "Loch Lomond Slog"—is a technical and demanding stretch of twisted roots, rocky scrambles, and narrow paths that test the endurance of even seasoned hikers. Beyond the loch, the trail enters the glens, following the path of the River Falloch toward Tyndrum. Here, the mountains begin to crowd the horizon, their slopes scarred by ancient glacial activity and draped in purple heather.
The final third of the West Highland Way is arguably the most spectacular. The crossing of Rannoch Moor is an exercise in isolation; it is one of the last remaining true wilderness areas in Europe, a vast peat bog surrounded by distant, jagged peaks. This leads directly into the jaws of Glen Coe, perhaps Scotland's most famous glen, where the trail climbs the "Devil's Staircase" to reach its highest point. The descent into Kinlochleven and the final march through the Lairigmor (the Great Pass) provides a fittingly grand finale, with the massive bulk of Ben Nevis—the highest mountain in the British Isles—looming over the finish line in Fort William. The West Highland Way is a test of stamina, a feast for the eyes, and a profound immersion into the soul of the Scottish landscape.
The path you walk today is a tapestry woven from centuries of Scottish history. Long before it was a recreational trail, the West Highland Way was a network of disparate routes used for survival, warfare, and commerce. Large sections of the trail follow ancient "drovers' roads"—the paths used by highlanders to herd cattle from the northern pastures to the markets in the south. These routes were the lifeblood of the Highland economy for centuries, and the ruins of old shielings (summer dwellings) and inns along the way serve as silent reminders of this vanished way of life.
In the 18th century, following the Jacobite Risings, the British government commissioned the construction of military roads to allow for the rapid movement of troops through the rebellious Highlands. Engineers like General George Wade and Major William Caulfeild designed these roads with characteristic straightness and robust stone bridges. Today, walkers on the West Highland Way still tread upon these historic surfaces, particularly through Glen Coe and the Lairigmor. The trail also passes through areas of deep clan significance, including the lands of the Colquhouns, the Macfarlanes, and the Campbells. The massacre of Glen Coe in 1692, a pivotal and tragic event in Scottish history, occurred just a few kilometres from the trail's path, and the weight of this history is palpable as you walk through the shadows of the Three Sisters peaks.
The modern trail was the brainchild of Tom Hunter, a Glasgow geographer and mountaineer who first proposed a long-distance route in the 1960s. It took nearly twenty years of negotiation with landowners and local authorities before the West Highland Way was officially opened on 6 October 1980. Since then, it has become a global icon, attracting over 30,000 walkers annually who complete the full distance, and many more who enjoy shorter sections. It remains a symbol of the Scottish "Right to Roam" and the enduring appeal of the Highland wilderness.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Scottish Highlands are famous for having "four seasons in one day," and the West Highland Way is no exception. Weather is the primary factor in determining the difficulty of the walk. While the trail is technically open year-round, the vast majority of walkers visit between April and October.
Spring (April to May): Many experienced walkers consider May the "golden month." The weather is often at its driest, the temperatures are cool but pleasant for walking, and the hills are vibrant with new growth. Crucially, May is usually before the emergence of the Highland midge—a tiny biting insect that can make summer walking a challenge. April can still see snow on the higher passes, and the air remains crisp.
Summer (June to August): This is the peak season. The days are incredibly long, with twilight lasting until 11:00 PM in June, providing ample time for long distances. However, this is also the height of midge season. These insects swarm in still, damp conditions, particularly in the mornings and evenings. Summer also brings the most crowds, meaning accommodation must be booked many months in advance. While temperatures can reach 25°C, rain is frequent, and the humidity can make the climbs feel more strenuous.
Autumn (September to October): September is another fantastic window. The midges begin to die off with the first frosts, and the landscape transforms into a sea of gold, rust, and deep orange as the bracken and heather change colour. October brings more volatile weather, with increased rainfall and shorter daylight hours, but the solitude is much greater.
Winter (November to March): This is only for the highly experienced and well-equipped. The West Highland Way becomes a serious mountaineering undertaking. Rannoch Moor and the Devil's Staircase can be buried in deep snow, and daylight is limited to about seven hours. Many hotels and campsites along the route close during this period, and public transport is reduced. Navigation skills with map and compass are essential as the trail markers can be obscured by snow.
Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen
Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan
Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Day 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum
Day 5: Tyndrum to Kingshouse
Day 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Important Notes:
The West Highland Way is a "moderate" trail, but its length makes it a significant physical challenge. Preparation should begin at least six months in advance. Fitness is paramount; you should be comfortable walking 20–25 km per day for several consecutive days, ideally with some elevation gain. Training should include walking in the boots you intend to wear and carrying the weight you expect to have in your pack.
Logistically, Glasgow is the primary gateway. Most walkers fly into Glasgow International Airport (GLA) and take a 20-minute train or bus to Milngavie. It is highly recommended to spend the night before your start in either Glasgow or Milngavie. Booking coordination is the biggest hurdle; because the trail passes through small villages with limited bed space, you must synchronise your daily distances with available accommodation. Many walkers use baggage transfer services (such as Travel-Lite or AMS), which transport your main luggage between stops for a fee (approx. £45–£60 for the full trip), allowing you to walk with only a light day pack.
The West Highland Way offers a diverse range of accommodation, but demand far outstrips supply during the peak season.
Types of Accommodation:
For the vast majority of the West Highland Way, no permits are required to walk the trail. Scotland’s Land Reform Act (2003) provides a statutory right of responsible access to most land and water. However, there is one critical exception regarding camping.
Loch Lomond Camping Management Zones:
Due to the high volume of visitors, Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park operates a camping permit system from 1 March to 30 September each year. During this time, you cannot wild camp along much of the lochside (from Drymen to past Inversnaid) without a permit. Permits cost £4 per tent, per night and must be booked in advance through the National Park website. These permits apply to specific "Camping Management Zones." If you do not have a permit, you must stay in an official commercial campsite.
Booking Strategy for Accommodation:
Transport Costs:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the West Highland Way (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the West Highland Way, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Many walkers choose to add a few days to their trip to experience the highlights of the Highlands:
Pre-Departure Checks:
Terrain Hazards: The West Highland Way is not a technical climb, but it is physically demanding. The "Loch Lomond Slog" (Day 3) features slippery roots and wet rocks that cause many twisted ankles. Rannoch Moor (Day 5) is the most dangerous section in bad weather; it is a vast, high-altitude plateau with no natural shelter. If the wind is high or visibility is low, the risk of exhaustion and hypothermia is genuine. The Devil's Staircase is a well-maintained path, but it is steep and exposed to the elements.
Hypothermia: Even in summer, temperatures in the Highlands can drop to near freezing at night or during heavy rain. Hypothermia is a risk if you become wet and are exposed to wind. Always carry a dry set of thermal layers in a waterproof dry-bag inside your pack.
Water Safety: Do not attempt to cross swollen streams after heavy rain. While most major crossings have bridges, some smaller burns can become impassable torrents within hours of a Highland downpour. Wait for the water to subside or find a safe alternative route.
Ticks and Lyme Disease: Ticks are prevalent in the bracken and long grass of the Highlands. Check your body every evening. Carry a tick removal tool and know how to use it. If you develop a "bullseye" rash or flu-like symptoms after the walk, consult a doctor immediately.
Conic Hill: While technically part of the main route for many, some choose the lower forest bypass. Don't. The climb to the summit of Conic Hill (361 m) provides the single best geographical lesson on the trail, showing the sharp line where the Lowlands meet the Highlands across the islands of Loch Lomond.
Ben Lomond: For those with extra energy on Day 2 or 3, Ben Lomond (974 m) is Scotland's most southerly Munro. The path starts from Rowardennan. It adds about 4–5 hours to your day but offers unparalleled views of the entire loch and the peaks of the Trossachs.
The Drovers Inn: Located at Inverarnan, this is more than just a pub; it is a living museum. Established in 1705, it is famously "haunted" and filled with taxidermy and ancient furniture. It is the quintessential West Highland Way experience.
The Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail): A short detour from the trail near Kingshouse leads into a hidden hanging valley in Glen Coe where the MacDonald clan used to hide rustled cattle. It is a dramatic, enclosed space surrounded by vertical rock walls.
The Old Military Road: Pay attention to the construction of the path between Bridge of Orchy and Inveroran. This is one of the best-preserved sections of Caulfeild’s military road, featuring original stone culverts and a robust cobble base that has survived for over 250 years.
The West Highland Way passes through some of Scotland's most sensitive environments, including National Parks and Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Walkers are expected to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, which is based on three main principles: respect the interests of others, care for the environment, and take responsibility for your own actions.
Specific Guidelines for the Way:
