France/Switzerland — Chamonix
Walk the Walkers Haute Route, a 200km traverse from Chamonix, France to Zermatt, Switzerland. This very challenging 12-15 day trek crosses the heart of the Alps, linking iconic peaks and offering unparalleled alpine grandeur. Expect rugged terrain, breathtaking panoramas, and a true test of endurance on this prestigious long-distance walk.
Distance: 200.0 km
Elevation Gain: 12000 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 12-15 days
The Walkers Haute Route is arguably the most prestigious and visually spectacular long-distance trekking route in the world. Stretching approximately 200 kilometres from the mountaineering capital of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc in France to the iconic pyramid of the Matterhorn in Zermatt, Switzerland, this journey is a masterclass in alpine grandeur. Unlike its famous neighbour, the Tour du Mont Blanc, which circles a single massif, the Haute Route is a linear traverse that crosses the heart of the Pennine Alps. It weaves through 11 high-altitude mountain passes, descends into lush Valaisian valleys, and skirts beneath some of the highest peaks in Western Europe, including Mont Blanc, the Grand Combin, and the Dent Blanche. This is not merely a walk; it is a high-altitude odyssey that demands physical stamina, mental fortitude, and a deep appreciation for the raw, unyielding beauty of the glaciated landscape.
The Walkers Haute Route is the summer trekking version of the legendary "High Level Route," a ski mountaineering traverse first completed in the late 19th century. While the skiers remain on the glaciers, the walkers' route stays primarily on marked trails, though "trail" is often a generous term for the steep, rocky, and sometimes exposed paths that define this trek. The route is characterised by a relentless "yo-yo" profile: every day involves a significant ascent to a high pass followed by a deep descent into a valley. Over the course of the journey, trekkers will accumulate over 12,000 metres of vertical gain—the equivalent of climbing Mount Everest from sea level and then adding another 3,000 metres for good measure.
The landscape is a shifting tapestry of ecological zones. You begin in the shadow of the Aiguilles de Chamonix, where granite spires pierce the sky. As you cross into Switzerland, the terrain transitions into the limestone and metamorphic folds of the Valais. You will walk through ancient larch forests, across high alpine meadows (alpages) where the clanging of cowbells provides a constant soundtrack, and over desolate, lunar-like scree slopes where the only signs of life are the occasional marmot or ibex. The proximity to glaciers is a defining feature; at several points, such as the Moiry Glacier or the Otemma Glacier, you are close enough to hear the ice groaning and cracking under the summer sun.
This trek is physically demanding and requires a high level of fitness. There are sections involving steep ladders (the Pas de Chèvres), narrow ridgelines, and unstable boulder fields. However, the rewards are unparalleled. Each pass conquered reveals a new panorama of 4,000-metre peaks, and each evening spent in a remote mountain hut offers a chance to connect with a global community of hikers. The Walkers Haute Route is a journey of contrasts—between the rugged isolation of the high passes and the charming, flower-decked villages of the Swiss valleys. It is a definitive test for any serious trekker and an experience that lingers in the memory long after the final view of the Matterhorn has faded.
The origins of the Haute Route are inextricably linked to the "Golden Age" of mountaineering. In 1861, members of the British Alpine Club, including legendary figures like Francis Fox Tuckett, sought a high-level passage between the two great mountaineering centres of Chamonix and Zermatt. Their original route was almost entirely on ice and snow, requiring technical mountaineering skills and guides. It wasn't until 1911 that the route was first completed on skis, cementing its status as the world's premier ski traverse. The "Walkers" version of the route evolved much later, as hiking trails were developed and linked to allow non-mountaineers to experience the same landscapes without the need for crampons and ropes.
Culturally, the trek is a journey through the heart of the Valais (Wallis) region of Switzerland. This is a land of deep traditions, where the rhythm of life was historically dictated by the seasonal movement of livestock. You will pass through villages like Grimentz and La Sage, where sun-blackened timber granaries (raccards) stand on stone stilts to keep rodents away from the grain. The linguistic transition is also fascinating; you begin in the French-speaking Haute-Savoie, continue through the French-speaking Lower Valais, and finally cross the "Röstigraben"—the invisible cultural and linguistic border—into the German-speaking Upper Valais as you approach Zermatt.
The mountain huts themselves are part of the history. Many are owned by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC/CAS) and have stood for over a century, evolving from basic stone shelters into modern, sustainably-run hostels. Staying in these huts is a communal experience that has changed little in decades: boots are left at the door, dinner is served at long shared tables, and the "Alpenglow" on the surrounding peaks is the evening's primary entertainment. The Haute Route is not just a physical path; it is a thread that connects the modern hiker to over 150 years of alpine exploration and mountain culture.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for completing the Walkers Haute Route is relatively narrow, dictated by the melting of winter snow and the arrival of autumn storms. The season typically runs from mid-June to mid-September. Outside of this window, the high passes are often impassable without technical winter equipment and advanced navigation skills.
Early Season (Mid-June to Early July): This is a beautiful but challenging time. The meadows are carpeted in wildflowers—gentians, anemones, and soldanellas—and the waterfalls are at their most powerful. However, significant snow often remains on the north-facing slopes of the higher passes (such as the Fenêtre d'Arpette and Col de Prafleuri). Trekkers must be prepared for "névé" (hard summer snow) and may require micro-spikes or an ice axe. Some higher huts may not be fully open until late June.
High Summer (July and August): This is the most popular time to trek. The weather is generally stable, the trails are clear of snow, and all huts and valley services are in full operation. However, this is also the hottest time of year; temperatures in the valleys can exceed 30 Celsius, making the long climbs gruelling. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in the Alps; these can be violent and develop rapidly, requiring hikers to be off the high passes by early afternoon.
Late Season (September): Many experienced trekkers consider September the best month. The air is crisper and clearer, providing the best visibility for photography. The crowds have thinned, and the autumn colours begin to touch the larch forests. However, the days are shorter, and the risk of an early-season snowfall increases. By mid-September, some mountain huts begin to close for the winter, and the "Bise" (a cold north-easterly wind) can make the high passes feel significantly colder.
Regardless of the month, weather in the Pennine Alps is unpredictable. A sunny morning can transform into a freezing sleet storm within an hour. Proper layering and high-quality waterproof gear are non-negotiable requirements for safety and comfort.
Day 1: Chamonix to Argentière
Day 2: Argentière to Trient via Col de Balme
Day 3: Trient to Champex-Lac via Fenêtre d'Arpette
Day 4: Champex-Lac to Le Châble
Day 5: Le Châble to Cabane du Mont Fort
Day 6: Cabane du Mont Fort to Cabane de Prafleuri
Day 7: Cabane de Prafleuri to Arolla
Day 8: Arolla to La Sage
Day 9: La Sage to Cabane de Moiry
Day 10: Cabane de Moiry to Zinal
Day 11: Zinal to Gruben
Day 12: Gruben to St. Niklaus
Day 13: St. Niklaus to Zermatt (Europaweg)
The Walkers Haute Route is a serious undertaking that requires months of physical and logistical preparation. Fitness is the most critical factor; you should be comfortable walking 15–20 kilometres a day with a 10–12 kg pack, involving over 1,000 metres of ascent and descent for multiple consecutive days. Training should focus on hill intervals, weighted pack walks, and leg strength (squats and lunges).
Logistically, the route requires careful coordination. Chamonix and Zermatt are well-connected by train and bus, but the intermediate villages have varying levels of transport. It is highly recommended to book your accommodation at least 4–6 months in advance, especially for the popular mountain huts which have limited capacity. Most hikers base themselves in Chamonix for a few days before starting to acclimatise and handle last-minute gear needs.
Accommodation on the Haute Route is a mix of mountain huts (cabanes in Switzerland, refuges in France), valley gîtes (hostels), and hotels. The experience of staying in a high-altitude hut is a highlight of the trip.
Hut Facilities:
What is NOT Provided:
Costs: Expect to pay between 80 and 110 Swiss Francs (CHF) per night for half-board in a mountain hut. Valley hotels in Chamonix or Zermatt will be significantly more expensive.
One of the great advantages of the Walkers Haute Route is that no official permits are required to walk the trail or cross the borders between France and Switzerland. The mountains are open to all. However, the "permit" in a practical sense is your accommodation booking. Because wild camping is strictly regulated and often prohibited along much of the route, your ability to complete the trek depends entirely on securing a bed in the huts or hotels.
Booking Strategy:
Border Formalities: While both France and Switzerland are part of the Schengen Area, you should always carry a valid passport or national ID card. You will cross the border at the Col de Balme; while there is rarely a guard present, random checks can occur in the valleys.
Insurance: While not a permit, mountain rescue insurance is effectively mandatory. If you require a helicopter evacuation in the Swiss Alps, the costs can exceed 5,000 CHF. Ensure your travel insurance specifically covers "hiking up to 3,000 metres" and "search and rescue." Membership in an Alpine Club (like the Austrian Alpine Club UK) often includes excellent rescue insurance.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Walkers Haute Route (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Walkers Haute Route, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The regions surrounding Chamonix and Zermatt offer some of the finest mountain experiences in the world. Consider adding a few days to your itinerary to explore:
Alpine Weather: The greatest objective hazard on the Haute Route is the weather. Conditions can change from benign to life-threatening in minutes. Always check the MeteoSwiss app or the local "Météo Chamonix" forecast before setting out. If lightning is forecast, ensure you are off the high passes and away from metal ladders (like the Pas de Chèvres) by midday.
Terrain and Exposure: While the route is a "walk," it involves significant exposure. Sections like the Europaweg or the descent from the Fenêtre d'Arpette involve narrow paths with steep drops. If you suffer from severe vertigo, some variants may be challenging. The Pas de Chèvres ladders are vertical but well-maintained; however, they can be slippery when wet.
Snow and Ice: Even in mid-summer, you may encounter patches of old snow. If the snow is hard and frozen (common in the morning), it can be extremely slippery. Trekking poles are essential for stability, and in early July, micro-spikes are a wise addition to your pack.
Navigation: While the trails are generally well-marked with yellow signs and red-and-white paint blazes, fog can reduce visibility to a few metres. You must be competent with a map and compass or a GPS. Do not rely solely on a smartphone, as batteries drain quickly in the cold and signal is non-existent in many high basins.
Hydration and Altitude: You will be spending much of your time between 2,000 m and 3,000 m. Altitude sickness is rare at these heights but can manifest as headaches or nausea. Drink plenty of water (3 litres per day) and avoid excessive alcohol in the huts. Be aware that many high-altitude streams are downstream from summer cattle pastures; always treat your water.
Fenêtre d'Arpette: This is the "high variant" of Day 3 and is widely considered the most spectacular viewpoint on the entire trek. The "window" (fenêtre) is a narrow notch in a granite ridge that looks directly down onto the chaotic icefall of the Trient Glacier. It is a steep, arduous climb, but the transition from the lush Arpette valley to the raw glacial world is unforgettable.
The Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge: Located on the final leg into Zermatt, this 494-metre-long bridge hangs 85 metres above the Grabengufer ravine. It is a feat of Swiss engineering and offers a thrilling (if slightly nerve-wracking) experience with the Matterhorn framed perfectly in the distance.
Lac des Dix and Grande Dixence Dam: On Day 7, you walk alongside the largest gravity dam in the world. Standing 285 metres high, it is a staggering sight. The trail along the lake is flat and easy, providing a rare mental break before the climb to the Pas de Chèvres.
Moiry Glacier: The Cabane de Moiry is one of the most spectacularly situated huts in the Alps. A short 20-minute walk from the hut takes you to the edge of the Moiry Glacier, where you can observe the blue ice and crevasses up close. The hut's dining room, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, offers a "cinema view" of the ice.
The Europaweg: This final two-day stretch into Zermatt is often cited as the most beautiful balcony walk in the Alps. It stays high above the Mattertal valley, offering constant views of the 4,000 m peaks of the Weisshorn and the Zinalrothorn, culminating in the first reveal of the Matterhorn.
The Alps are a heavily used but fragile ecosystem. With thousands of hikers traversing the Haute Route every summer, the cumulative impact can be significant. It is the responsibility of every trekker to preserve this landscape for future generations.
Core Principles for the Haute Route:
