Norway — Lærdalsøyri
Walk Norway's Vindhellavegen Stave Route, a moderate 4.5km loop in Vestland county. This historic section of the King's Road offers a glimpse into 18th and 19th-century transport engineering, winding through rugged Lærdal valley terrain. Admire the iconic Borgund Stave Church at this scenic, historically rich trail.
Distance: 4.5 km
Elevation Gain: 300 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 2-3 hours
The Vindhellavegen Stave Route is not merely a hiking trail; it is a journey through the evolution of Norwegian transport history, carved into the steep, rugged terrain of the Lærdal valley. Located in the heart of Vestland county, this 4.5-kilometre loop represents the most spectacular section of the Kongevegen (The King’s Road) over Filefjell. It is a place where 18th-century ambition meets 19th-century engineering brilliance, all set against the backdrop of the iconic Borgund Stave Church—the best-preserved stave church in Norway. The trail is world-renowned for its dramatic hairpin bends, supported by massive dry-stone walls that rise up to 12 metres from the valley floor, creating a visual rhythm that feels more like a cathedral of stone than a mountain pass. For the modern walker, Vindhellavegen offers a moderate but deeply rewarding experience, blending cultural heritage with the raw, vertical beauty of the Norwegian fjords and mountains.
The Vindhellavegen section of the King’s Road is a testament to the sheer will of Norwegian road builders who sought to conquer the formidable "Vindhella" (Windy Hill) pass. The route is famous for its four sharp hairpin bends, constructed in the 1840s to replace an even steeper 1790s road that had become impassable for the increasingly heavy horse-drawn traffic of the era. As you walk the trail, you are treading on a surface that was once the primary artery between Eastern and Western Norway, a vital link for post, trade, and royal travel. The engineering is staggering: the road is built upon high stone embankments, meticulously crafted without mortar, which have stood the test of time and the harsh Scandinavian climate for nearly two centuries.
The landscape here is quintessential Norway. The trail begins in the lush valley floor near the Borgund Stave Church, where the air is often filled with the scent of pine and ancient wood tar. As you ascend, the valley narrows, and the sound of the Lærdalselvi river—one of Norway’s most famous salmon rivers—echoes off the granite cliffs. The "Vindhella" name is well-earned; the pass acts as a natural funnel for the winds blowing from the high mountains down toward the Sognefjord, creating a microclimate that can feel significantly cooler than the valley below. The contrast between the dark, dragon-crested silhouette of the stave church and the pale, geometric precision of the stone road creates a photographic and emotional experience that is unique in the world of hiking.
While the distance is short, the experience is dense. Every metre of the trail tells a story of labour, logistics, and the transition from a medieval society to a modern nation. The path is wide and surfaced with gravel and stone, making it accessible for most walkers with a reasonable level of fitness. However, the gradients are significant, reaching up to 1:4 in some sections of the older road, which provides a physical challenge that reminds the walker of the hardships faced by the travellers of old. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or a nature seeker, Vindhellavegen delivers a concentrated dose of Norwegian heritage in a manageable afternoon walk.
The history of Vindhellavegen is inextricably linked to the Kongevegen over Filefjell, the first road suitable for wheeled vehicles between Oslo (then Christiania) and Bergen. Before the road was built, travellers had to navigate treacherous mountain paths and steep scree slopes. In the late 18th century, the Danish-Norwegian authorities recognised the need for a more reliable postal and military route. The first "modern" road through Vindhella was completed in 1793, designed by C.J. Hammer. This road followed the natural contours of the terrain but was notoriously steep, with gradients that exhausted horses and required travellers to disembark and push their carriages.
By the 1840s, the 1793 road was deemed insufficient for the growing demands of Norwegian commerce. Captain Henrik Christian Finne of the Road Engineers was tasked with redesigning the pass. His solution was revolutionary: instead of fighting the steepness with sheer force, he used the principles of modern road engineering to create the four famous hairpin bends. By building massive stone walls to support the roadbed, he was able to reduce the gradient, though it remained one of the steepest sections of the King’s Road. The craftsmanship of the dry-stone walling is particularly notable; the stones were sourced locally and fitted together with such precision that they have required minimal maintenance over the last 180 years.
At the base of the trail lies the Borgund Stave Church, built around 1180. This architectural marvel serves as the spiritual and historical anchor of the route. Stave churches are unique to Northern Europe, and Borgund is the most authentic example remaining, having survived without significant structural changes for over 800 years. The church features intricate carvings of dragons and crosses, representing the transition from Norse paganism to Christianity. The proximity of the church to the road is no coincidence; the church was the centre of the community and a landmark for travellers for centuries. Walking Vindhellavegen is, therefore, a journey through three distinct eras: the medieval period of the stave church, the Enlightenment era of the 1790s road, and the industrial-age engineering of the 1840s.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Vindhellavegen Stave Route is best experienced during the warmer months, typically from May to October. During this window, the trail is generally free of snow, and the surrounding vegetation is at its most vibrant. However, the Norwegian weather is famously unpredictable, and walkers should be prepared for rapid changes in conditions even in the height of summer.
Spring (May to June): This is a spectacular time to visit as the snow melts from the higher peaks, feeding the waterfalls that cascade down the valley walls. The Lærdalselvi river is at its most powerful, and the wildflowers begin to bloom along the road embankments. Be aware that late-season snow patches can sometimes linger in the shaded sections of the pass until late May.
Summer (July to August): This is the peak season for tourism. The weather is generally mild, with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. The long daylight hours of the Norwegian summer allow for late-evening walks when the low sun casts long, dramatic shadows across the stone walls of the hairpins. This is also the best time to visit the Borgund Stave Church visitor centre, which is fully operational during these months.
Autumn (September to October): As the birch trees turn golden and the mountain air becomes crisp, Vindhellavegen takes on a more somber, majestic character. The crowds thin out, providing a more solitary experience. However, the days shorten rapidly, and the stone surface of the road can become slippery when wet or covered in fallen leaves. Early frosts can occur in October, making the steep sections hazardous.
Winter (November to April): The trail is not maintained during the winter months. While it is possible to walk with snowshoes or micro-spikes, the steep gradients and potential for ice make it a challenging and potentially dangerous undertaking. The road is often covered in deep snow, obscuring the historic features. Most visitors avoid the trail during this time, as the Borgund Stave Church is also closed to interior tours during the coldest months.
Phase 1: The Departure from Borgund
Phase 2: The Ascent of Vindhella
Phase 3: The Hairpin Bends and Summit
Phase 4: The Descent via Sverrestigen
Important Notes:
Vindhellavegen is a day hike that requires no advanced bookings or permits, making it one of the more accessible historic walks in Norway. However, its location in the rural Lærdal valley means that transport and timing are key. The nearest major town is Lærdalsøyri, approximately 30 kilometres away. Most visitors base themselves in Lærdalsøyri, Sogndal, or Flåm.
Fitness requirements are moderate. While the trail is short, the 300-metre elevation gain occurs over a relatively short distance, meaning the gradients are steep. Walkers should be comfortable with sustained uphill walking on uneven surfaces. If you plan to visit the Borgund Stave Church (highly recommended), check the seasonal opening hours in advance, as they vary significantly between May and September.
Logistically, the easiest way to reach the trailhead is by car. There is ample parking at the Borgund Stave Church visitor centre. For those using public transport, the "Øst-Vestekspressen" bus service runs between Lillehammer and Bergen, stopping at Borgund. However, services are infrequent, so careful coordination with the bus timetable is essential.
This is a day hike requiring no overnight accommodation on the trail itself. Camping is not permitted in the immediate vicinity of the Borgund Stave Church or on the historic road structures to protect the heritage site.
Nearby Options:
No permits are required to walk the Vindhellavegen Stave Route or any part of the Kongevegen over Filefjell. Norway’s "Allemannsretten" (Right to Roam) ensures that everyone has the right to access the countryside, provided they do so respectfully and without damaging the environment or heritage structures.
Access and Fees:
Regulations:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Vindhellavegen Stave Route (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Vindhellavegen Stave Route, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Lærdal region is a hub for cultural and outdoor activities. Consider these options to round out your visit:
Pre-Departure Checks:
Terrain Hazards: The primary hazard on Vindhellavegen is the steepness of the trail. The 1840s road was built for horse-drawn carriages, not modern vehicles, and the gradients are much steeper than a modern road. On the descent, the combination of gravity and loose surface can lead to slips and falls. The Sverrestigen path is narrower and has more roots and rocks, requiring careful foot placement. There are also steep drops off the side of the road embankments; while the road is wide, children should be supervised closely.
Weather Reality: In the mountains of Western Norway, weather can change in minutes. A sunny morning can quickly turn into a cold, rainy afternoon. Hypothermia is a risk even in summer if you get wet and the wind picks up at the top of the pass. Always carry a windproof or waterproof layer.
Livestock: You may encounter sheep grazing along the trail. They are generally harmless but can be startled by dogs or loud noises. Give them space and do not attempt to feed them.
Emergency Services: In case of an emergency, dial 112 for police, 113 for ambulance, or 110 for fire. Mobile phone coverage is generally good along the entire loop, but there may be small "dead zones" in the deepest parts of the pass.
Sverrestigen (King Sverre’s Path): This is the "wilder" alternative to the engineered King’s Road. In 1177, King Sverre and his Birkebeiner rebels used this path to bypass farmers who were waiting to ambush them in the valley. Walking this path gives you a sense of how difficult travel was before the 18th-century road-building projects. It offers excellent views of the Vindhellavegen hairpins from across the gorge.
The Bell Tower: Near the Borgund Stave Church stands a unique, free-standing wooden bell tower. It is the only one of its kind from the Middle Ages still standing in Norway. The bells were used to call the faithful to prayer and to signal emergencies in the valley.
Galdane: A few kilometres west of Vindhellavegen lies the Galdane section of the King’s Road. This path is carved into a vertical cliff face above the Lærdalselvi river. It is a more challenging walk but offers spectacular views of the river and the "Sokni" waterfall. It can be combined with Vindhellavegen for a longer day of hiking.
Rimskjold: A viewpoint located slightly off the main King’s Road path that offers a panoramic view of the Borgund valley. It is a great spot for photography, especially in the early morning when the mist often clings to the valley floor around the stave church.
The Old Post Route: Look for the small stone markers along the road. These were used to guide the postal riders who travelled this route year-round, often in horrific conditions, to ensure the mail moved between Norway’s two largest cities.
The Vindhellavegen Stave Route is a protected cultural heritage site. The stone walls and the road surface are historical monuments, and their preservation depends on the respect of every visitor. The "Leave No Trace" principles are essential here to ensure that this 200-year-old masterpiece remains intact for another two centuries.
Your responsibility as a walker:
By following these guidelines, you help preserve one of Europe’s most significant transport heritage sites. Walk with care and leave only footprints.
