Spain — Jaén
Walk the Via Verde del Aceite, a 128km easy greenway through Andalusia, Spain. This historic railway path winds through ancient olive groves and picturesque villages, offering a gentle 2-4 day exploration of rolling hills and river valleys. Enjoy a scenic, cultural, and gastronomic route perfect for walkers and cyclists.
Distance: 128.0 km
Elevation Gain: 400 m
Difficulty: Easy
Duration: 2-4 days
The Via Verde del Aceite, or Olive Oil Green Way, is a captivating multi-day walking and cycling route stretching across the heart of Andalusia, Spain. This extensive greenway follows the path of an abandoned railway line, transforming a relic of industrial history into a vibrant corridor of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and gastronomic delight. Traversing rolling hills dotted with ancient olive groves, picturesque villages, and dramatic river valleys, the Via Verde del Aceite offers an accessible and immersive journey through one of Spain's most iconic landscapes. It's a route designed for enjoyment, allowing walkers and cyclists to connect with the land, its traditions, and its people at a leisurely pace. The trail's gentle gradients, largely flat terrain, and well-maintained surface make it suitable for all ages and fitness levels, promising an unforgettable experience for those seeking authentic Spanish charm and serene natural exploration.
The Via Verde del Aceite is more than just a trail; it's a journey through the soul of Andalusia, a region synonymous with sun-drenched landscapes, rich history, and the production of the world's finest olive oil. This 128 km route, built upon the disused railway line that once transported the region's liquid gold, now offers a unique perspective on the vast olive groves that carpet the rolling hills. The path is predominantly flat, with a maximum gradient of 3%, making it exceptionally easy to traverse, whether on foot or by bicycle. This gentle incline is a testament to its railway origins, designed for the slow, steady progress of steam engines.
As you journey along the Via Verde, you'll pass through a succession of charming white villages (pueblos blancos), each with its own distinct character, history, and culinary specialities. These villages, often perched on hilltops, offer opportunities to rest, refuel, and soak in the authentic Andalusian atmosphere. The landscape is a constant visual feast: endless expanses of olive trees, interspersed with vineyards, almond orchards, and patches of Mediterranean scrub. The air is often perfumed with the scent of wild herbs and, in spring, the delicate fragrance of orange blossoms.
The route is punctuated by numerous old railway structures—bridges, viaducts, tunnels, and stations—each a silent reminder of the line's past. These structures are not just historical artefacts; they are integral parts of the trail, offering dramatic crossings over rivers and valleys, and providing shaded passages through tunnels that once echoed with the rumble of trains. The Via Verde del Aceite is a testament to sustainable tourism, repurposing industrial heritage into a pathway for recreation, environmental appreciation, and economic development for the local communities it connects.
The story of the Via Verde del Aceite is intrinsically linked to the economic development of Andalusia in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a period when the region's olive oil production boomed. The need to transport this precious commodity efficiently from the inland groves to the ports for export led to the ambitious construction of a railway line. The 'Ferrocarril Aceitunero' (Olive Railway), as it was known, was a monumental engineering feat for its time, connecting the olive-rich areas around Jaén with the port of Seville.
Construction began in the early 1920s and continued in stages, facing numerous challenges including difficult terrain and economic fluctuations. The line was finally completed and opened in sections, with the full route operational by the 1930s. For decades, the railway played a vital role in the regional economy, facilitating the movement of olive oil, agricultural produce, and passengers. The stations along the route became important social and economic hubs for the surrounding villages, fostering community life and trade.
However, with the advent of road transport and the decline of rail freight, the 'Ferrocarril Aceitunero' gradually became less economically viable. Passenger services ceased in the 1970s, and freight operations dwindled. By the late 1980s, the railway line was largely abandoned, its tracks rusting and its stations falling into disrepair. The landscape, once animated by the passage of trains, returned to a quieter, more natural state.
In the late 1990s and early 2000s, a visionary project began to transform this disused infrastructure into a 'Via Verde'—a greenway. The railway line was cleared, resurfaced, and adapted for use by cyclists and walkers. The old stations were often repurposed into tourist information centres, restaurants, or accommodation, breathing new life into these historic buildings. The Via Verde del Aceite is a prime example of successful heritage regeneration, turning a symbol of industrial decline into a thriving artery for sustainable tourism, connecting people with the region's rich agricultural heritage and stunning natural beauty.
The Via Verde del Aceite is a destination that shines brightest during the shoulder seasons, offering a delightful balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds. These periods are ideal for experiencing the full charm of Andalusia without the intensity of summer heat.
Spring (March–May): This is arguably the most beautiful time to visit. The landscape bursts into vibrant colour, with wildflowers carpeting the fields and the olive trees beginning to show their new growth. The weather is typically mild and sunny, with average temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. It's perfect for walking and cycling, with comfortable temperatures for exertion. The air is fresh, and the scent of orange blossoms can be intoxicating. However, occasional spring showers are possible, so packing a light waterproof jacket is advisable.
Autumn (September–November): Another prime season, autumn offers warm, sunny days and cooler evenings. Temperatures generally range from 18°C to 28°C in September and October, gradually cooling to 10°C to 20°C in November. The olive harvest often begins in late autumn, providing a unique cultural spectacle. The light is often softer and more golden, making for spectacular photography. Like spring, occasional rain showers can occur, particularly later in the season.
Summer (June–August): Summers in Andalusia are notoriously hot, with temperatures frequently exceeding 35°C and sometimes reaching 40°C or higher. While the greenway is still accessible, walking or cycling during the midday heat can be challenging and potentially dangerous. If visiting in summer, it is essential to start very early in the morning, take long breaks during the hottest part of the day, stay well-hydrated, and use ample sun protection. Cycling is more manageable than walking due to the ability to cover more ground and seek shade more quickly.
Winter (December–February): Winters are generally mild, with average temperatures between 8°C and 18°C. While sunny days are common, it can also be damp and cooler, with occasional frost. This season is less popular for active tourism but can be a good time for those seeking a quieter experience and interested in the stark beauty of the olive groves in winter. Some smaller villages might have reduced services during this period.
Day 1: Jaén to Torredelcampo
Day 2: Torredelcampo to Alcaudete
Day 3: Alcaudete to Córdoba (via Estación de Bobadilla)
Day 1: Jaén to Torredelcampo
Day 2: Torredelcampo to Alcaudete
Important Notes:
The Via Verde del Aceite is a well-established route, but proper planning ensures a smooth and enjoyable experience. Given its length and the potential for hot weather, especially in summer, preparation is key. The closest major city with good transport links is Jaén, which serves as a common starting point. Malaga Airport (AGP) is the most convenient international gateway, from which you can take a train or bus to Jaén. If travelling by car, there is parking available at various access points along the route, particularly in the larger towns.
Consider the time of year carefully. Spring and autumn offer the most pleasant temperatures for walking and cycling. If travelling in summer, be prepared for extreme heat and plan your activities accordingly, focusing on early mornings and late afternoons. Booking accommodation in advance is highly recommended, especially in smaller villages or during popular travel periods, as options can be limited.
Accommodation options along the Via Verde del Aceite are varied and generally found in the towns and villages that the route passes through or near. These include:
Booking Requirements: It is strongly advised to book accommodation in advance, particularly during the spring and autumn seasons, and if travelling during Spanish holidays. Websites like Booking.com, Airbnb, and local tourism portals are useful resources.
Facilities Provided: Typically include private rooms with en-suite bathrooms, common areas, and often breakfast services. Rural houses may offer kitchen facilities.
What's NOT Provided: Specific gear for the trail (e.g., bicycles, helmets, walking poles) is usually not provided unless you book a package with a tour operator. You will need to bring your own food and drinks, although many accommodations offer meals.
Seasonal Availability: Accommodation is generally available year-round, but services might be reduced in smaller villages during the winter months (December–February).
Costs: Prices vary significantly based on the type of accommodation and location, but expect to pay approximately €40–€100 per night for a double room in a hotel or hostal, and potentially more for a rural house or apartment.
The Via Verde del Aceite is a public access route and does not require any specific permits or booking fees for walking or cycling. It is part of Spain's network of greenways (Vías Verdes), which are designed to be accessible to everyone.
Access: The trail is open year-round, and you can start your journey from any of the numerous access points along its 128 km length. The most common starting points are Jaén or the former railway stations in towns like Torredelcampo, Alcaudete, or Estación de Bobadilla.
No Fees: There are no charges for using the trail itself. Any costs incurred will be for accommodation, food, bicycle rental (if applicable), and transport to and from the trailheads.
Respect Local Regulations: While no permits are needed, it is important to respect the local environment and any regulations in place within the towns and villages you pass through. This includes adhering to waste disposal guidelines and respecting private property.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Via Verde Aceite (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Via Verde Aceite, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The region surrounding the Via Verde del Aceite offers a wealth of cultural, historical, and natural attractions:
Trail Conditions: The Via Verde del Aceite is generally well-maintained, with a compacted gravel or asphalt surface. It is largely flat with gentle gradients, making it safe and accessible. However, cyclists should be aware of potential loose gravel, especially after rain or in less-trafficked sections. Tunnels can be dark and require a head torch for visibility and safety.
Weather: As mentioned in the seasonal section, summers can be extremely hot. Always carry ample water, wear sun protection, and plan your activities to avoid the midday sun. Spring and autumn offer more moderate temperatures but can still experience rain, so waterproof gear is advisable.
Navigation: The route is well-signposted with the distinctive greenway symbol. However, it's always wise to carry a map or use a GPS device, especially when entering or leaving towns, where the route might briefly divert onto local roads.
Water and Food: Villages are spaced at intervals, but it's crucial to carry enough water and snacks, particularly for longer stretches between settlements. Check village opening times for shops and restaurants, as some may close for siesta or have limited hours, especially outside peak season.
Emergencies: The European emergency number is 112. Mobile phone signal is generally good along the route, but can be patchy in tunnels or remote sections. It's advisable to inform someone of your itinerary and expected arrival times.
Cycling Safety: Cyclists should wear helmets and be aware of other users on the path, including pedestrians and horse riders. Ensure your bicycle is in good working order, with functioning brakes and lights for tunnels.
Wildlife: While generally not dangerous, be aware of local wildlife. You might encounter birds of prey, lizards, and various insects. Ticks can be present in grassy areas, so check yourself after walking through longer vegetation.
Puente de la Victoria (Victoria Bridge): This impressive railway viaduct, located between Torredelcampo and Alcaudete, is a highlight of the Via Verde. It spans a significant river valley, offering spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and the olive groves stretching to the horizon. It's a perfect spot for photos and a moment of reflection on the engineering marvels of the past.
Tunnels: The Via Verde del Aceite features numerous tunnels, remnants of the old railway line. These offer a unique experience, providing cool respite from the sun and a sense of adventure. Notable tunnels include those near Torredelcampo and the longer ones closer to Alcaudete. Remember to bring a reliable head torch for safe passage.
Former Railway Stations: Many of the old stations along the route have been preserved and often repurposed. These include stations in Jaén, Torredelcampo, Espeluy, Alcaudete, and Estación de Bobadilla. Some now house tourist information centres, museums, restaurants, or accommodation, offering a glimpse into the railway's history and the local heritage.
Alcaudete Castle: Dominating the town of Alcaudete, this imposing Moorish castle is a must-visit. Its strategic location offers commanding views over the town and the surrounding landscape. Exploring its ramparts and courtyards provides a fascinating insight into the region's rich history.
Olive Groves: The sheer scale and beauty of the olive groves are a constant point of interest. The landscape is a mosaic of silver-green leaves, changing subtly with the seasons. Taking time to appreciate the agricultural heritage and perhaps visiting a local olive oil producer enhances the experience.
The Via Verde del Aceite is a precious resource, enjoyed by walkers, cyclists, and the local communities. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles ensures its preservation for future generations and maintains a positive experience for all users.
Plan Ahead and Prepare: Research your route, check weather forecasts, and book accommodation in advance. Understand the services available in villages and carry adequate supplies.
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: Stick to the marked trail. Avoid walking or cycling off-path, especially in sensitive natural areas, to prevent erosion and damage to vegetation.
Dispose of Waste Properly: Pack out everything you pack in. This includes all litter, food scraps, and packaging. Use designated bins in villages, and if none are available, carry your waste until you find one. Do not bury or burn trash.
Leave What You Find: Do not pick wildflowers, disturb wildlife, or remove historical artefacts from old railway structures. Take only photographs and memories.
Minimise Campfire Impacts: Campfires are generally not permitted on the Via Verde itself. If camping in designated areas, use existing fire rings and ensure fires are completely extinguished.
Respect Wildlife: Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not feed animals, as this can disrupt their natural behaviour and diet. Be mindful of domestic animals in rural areas.
Be Considerate of Other Visitors: Yield to pedestrians when cycling. Keep noise levels down, especially in villages and natural areas. Respect the local culture and customs.
