Romania — Cluj-Napoca
Walk Romania's Via Transilvanica, a 1400km thru-hike connecting 108 communities from Bucovina to the Danube. This moderate, 50-70 day route offers a cultural and historical artery through diverse landscapes, marked by unique andesite milestones. Experience a spiritual path across varied terrain, from rolling highlands to verdant valleys, a true "El Camino of Romania."
Distance: 1400.0 km
Elevation Gain: 45000 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 50-70 days
Via Transilvanica is Romania's first long-distance thru-hiking trail, a monumental 1,400-kilometre journey that traverses the country from the northern reaches of Bucovina to the banks of the Danube in the south. Often referred to as the "El Camino of Romania," this trail is far more than a simple hiking route; it is a cultural, historical, and spiritual artery that connects 108 local communities across seven distinct historical regions. The path is marked by unique andesite milestones, each weighing 230 kilograms and individually carved by artists, serving as both navigational aids and a massive outdoor art gallery. Walking the Via Transilvanica is an invitation to rediscover the soul of rural Europe, passing through ancient forests, medieval Saxon villages, Dacian ruins, and the rugged peaks of the Carpathian Mountains.
The Via Transilvanica is a project of unprecedented scale in Eastern Europe, conceived by the NGO Tășuleasa Social to revitalise rural communities and promote sustainable tourism. The trail is divided into seven major regions, each offering a completely different landscape and cultural experience. In the north, Bucovina greets hikers with its famous painted monasteries and rolling emerald hills. As the trail moves south into the Highlands (Ținutul de Sus), the terrain becomes more rugged and mountainous, demanding higher physical fitness and navigation skills. The central sections—Terra Siculorum and Terra Saxonia—immerse the walker in the unique heritage of the Hungarian-speaking Szekler people and the fortified churches of the Transylvanian Saxons.
The southern half of the trail, Terra Dacica and Terra Romana, leads through the heart of ancient history, passing the ruins of Sarmizegetusa Regia (the capital of the Dacian Kingdom) and Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa (the Roman capital). The journey concludes in the Cerna Valley and the Mehedinți Mountains before reaching the final milestone at the Bridge of Trajan in Drobeta-Turnu Severin. This is a landscape of immense biodiversity; Romania is home to the largest populations of brown bears, wolves, and lynx in Europe outside of Russia, and the trail passes through some of the continent's last remaining virgin forests.
Unlike many European trails that are heavily commercialised, Via Transilvanica offers a raw and authentic experience. You will walk through villages where horse-drawn carts are still common, where hospitality is a sacred duty, and where the rhythm of life is dictated by the seasons. The difficulty is rated as moderate, but the sheer length and the cumulative elevation gain make it a formidable challenge for any hiker. It is a journey of endurance, but also one of profound connection—to the land, to history, and to the people who call this diverse landscape home.
The Via Transilvanica was officially inaugurated in October 2022, following four years of intensive work by hundreds of volunteers. The project was spearheaded by Alin Ușeriu and his brother, the ultra-marathon runner Tibi Ușeriu, through their organisation Tășuleasa Social. Their vision was to create a "path that unites" (calea care unește), bringing together the diverse ethnic and cultural threads that make up the Romanian identity—Romanians, Hungarians, Saxons, Roma, and others.
The trail's historical depth is staggering. In Bucovina, you walk in the footsteps of Stephen the Great, the 15th-century prince who defended the region against Ottoman invasions. In Transylvania, the path weaves through the "Terra Saxonia," a region settled by German colonists in the 12th century who built the iconic fortified churches that are now UNESCO World Heritage sites. Further south, the trail enters the realm of the Dacians and Romans, where the very foundations of the Romanian language and culture were laid nearly two millennia ago. The andesite milestones themselves are a nod to this history; each one is a unique work of art, carved with symbols that reflect the local folklore, history, or natural beauty of the specific kilometre it marks.
Culturally, the trail serves as a lifeline for dying villages. By bringing hikers to remote areas, the Via Transilvanica provides economic incentives for locals to preserve their traditional crafts, architecture, and "puncte de gastronomie locală" (local gastronomic points). These are certified private kitchens where villagers serve traditional meals to travellers, offering a taste of authentic Romanian cuisine that has remained unchanged for centuries.
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The ideal window for a full thru-hike of the Via Transilvanica is from late May to early October. During this period, the weather is generally stable, and the mountain passes are clear of snow. However, Romania's climate is continental, meaning temperatures can fluctuate significantly.
Spring (May to June): This is perhaps the most beautiful time to walk. The meadows of Bucovina and Transylvania are in full bloom, and the landscapes are vibrantly green. However, this is also the wettest period. Frequent afternoon thunderstorms are common, especially in the mountains. Hikers should be prepared for mud and swollen streams. Temperatures range from 10°C at night to 25°C during the day.
Summer (July to August): The weather is hot and dry, particularly in the southern sections of Terra Romana and the Danube. Temperatures can soar above 35°C, making the exposed sections of the trail quite gruelling. In the mountains, the air remains cooler, but the risk of sudden, violent thunderstorms increases. This is the peak season for local tourism, so booking accommodation in advance is highly recommended.
Autumn (September to October): Many thru-hikers consider this the best time. The heat of summer has faded, the air is crisp and clear, and the autumn colours in the Carpathian forests are spectacular. September is generally dry, though by October, the nights become quite cold, and the first snows can fall on the higher peaks of the Călimani or Mehedinți ranges.
Winter (November to April): A full thru-hike is not recommended during winter unless you are an expert in winter navigation and survival. Large sections of the trail become impassable due to deep snow, and many guest houses in remote villages close for the season. Avalanche risk is a serious concern in the mountainous sections.
Region 1: Bucovina (Putna to Vatra Dornei)
Region 2: The Highlands / Ținutul de Sus (Vatra Dornei to Câmpu Cetății)
Region 3: Terra Siculorum (Câmpu Cetății to Archita)
Region 4: Terra Saxonia (Archita to Micăsasa)
Region 5: Terra Dacica (Micăsasa to Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa)
Region 6: Terra Romana (Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa to Drobeta-Turnu Severin)
Region 7: The Danube (Final Stretch)
Important Notes:
Planning a thru-hike of the Via Transilvanica requires more than just physical fitness; it requires logistical coordination. The trail is not a wilderness track in the North American sense; it is a "cultural route" that passes through inhabited areas. Therefore, your planning should focus on understanding the local customs and the availability of services in each village. The official website (viatransilvanica.com) provides a comprehensive guide and a downloadable GPS track, which is essential as some sections can be confusing due to livestock paths.
Cluj-Napoca or Suceava are the best base cities for starting the trail. Suceava is closer to the northern trailhead at Putna. You should spend at least two days in your base city to finalise your gear, buy a local SIM card (Digi or Orange have the best coverage), and register your intent to hike with Tășuleasa Social if you wish to receive the "Carnetul Drumețului" (Hiker's Passport).
Accommodation on the Via Transilvanica is diverse and reflects the hospitality of the Romanian people. Unlike the hut systems in the Alps, you will mostly stay in village-based establishments.
Types of Accommodation:
Booking Requirements: During the peak months of July and August, it is wise to book your next night's accommodation at least 24 hours in advance. In the shoulder seasons, you can often find a bed on the day of arrival.
One of the greatest appeals of the Via Transilvanica is its accessibility. There are no permits required to walk the trail, and there are no daily quotas or entry fees for the route itself. However, there are a few administrative and logistical considerations to keep in mind.
National Park Fees: The trail passes through several National Parks, including Călimani and Domogled-Valea Cernei. While walking through is free, if you choose to stay in specific mountain refuges or designated campsites within these parks, a small fee (usually 10–20 RON) may be required, payable via SMS or at park visitor centres.
The Hiker's Passport (Carnetul Drumețului): While not a legal permit, this document is the "official" way to track your progress. You can obtain it at the start in Putna or at the Tășuleasa Social headquarters. It costs a nominal fee (approx. 50 RON) which goes toward trail maintenance. Collecting stamps from guest houses, shops, or monasteries along the way is a key part of the trail culture.
Registration: It is highly recommended to register your start date and expected duration on the official Via Transilvanica website. This helps the organisers track trail usage and can be vital for safety if you go missing in the more remote mountain sections.
Border Police: In the final sections near the Danube, the trail runs close to the Serbian border. It is essential to carry your passport or national ID card at all times, as border police patrols are common in this area.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Via Transilvanica (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Via Transilvanica, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Romania is a country of deep contrasts, and there are many ways to complement your hike:
Wildlife - The Brown Bear: Romania has the highest concentration of brown bears in Europe. While they generally avoid humans, encounters are possible, especially in the Highlands and Terra Romana. Always make noise while walking (talking, singing, or using a bear bell) to avoid surprising a bear. Never keep food inside your tent if camping; use a bear bag and hang it at least 4 metres high and 100 metres away from your sleeping area. If you encounter a bear, do not run. Speak in a calm, firm voice and back away slowly.
Shepherd Dogs (Ciobănești): For many hikers, the large, protective sheepdogs are a greater concern than bears. These dogs are bred to protect flocks from wolves and can be very aggressive toward strangers. If you approach a flock, the dogs will likely bark and run toward you. Stop immediately. Do not throw stones or run. Use your trekking poles as a barrier (but do not strike the dogs) and wait for the shepherd to call them off. If no shepherd is visible, back away slowly while facing the dogs.
Weather Extremes: The Carpathian Mountains are notorious for rapid weather changes. Hypothermia is a risk even in summer if you are caught in a cold rainstorm at high altitude. Always check the mountain forecast (Meteoblue is generally accurate for Romania) before heading into the Călimani or Mehedinți sections. Lightning is a significant danger on the open ridges; if a storm approaches, descend to lower ground immediately.
Water and Hygiene: While mountain springs are often pristine, the presence of large numbers of sheep means that Giardia and other waterborne pathogens are a risk. Always filter or treat water collected from the trail. In villages, tap water is generally safe, but if in doubt, ask the locals ("Este apa potabilă?").
Emergency Services: The emergency number in Romania is 112. For mountain-specific rescues, ask for "Salvamont" (the mountain rescue service). It is highly recommended to download the "Salvamont" app, which allows you to send your GPS coordinates directly to rescuers.
Sarmizegetusa Regia: Located in the Terra Dacica section, this is the Stonehenge of Romania. The sacred sanctuary of the Dacians features impressive circular stone calendars and the remains of a sophisticated water drainage system. It is a place of immense atmospheric power, nestled deep in the Orăștie Mountains.
The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina: While the trail passes near several, taking a half-day detour to see Voroneț (known for its unique "Voroneț Blue") or Sucevița is highly recommended. The exterior frescoes have survived centuries of harsh weather and depict complex biblical scenes with incredible detail.
The Biertan Fortified Church: A short detour in Terra Saxonia leads to this massive architectural marvel. It features three tiers of defensive walls and a famous "matrimonial prison" where couples seeking divorce were locked together for two weeks with only one bed and one set of cutlery (legend says only one couple ever proceeded with the divorce after the ordeal).
The Iron Gates: At the very end of the trail in Drobeta-Turnu Severin, take a boat trip on the Danube to see the "Decebalus Rex" rock carving—the tallest rock sculpture in Europe—and the narrowest point of the Danube gorges.
The Via Transilvanica passes through some of the most pristine and culturally sensitive areas of Europe. As a hiker, you are an ambassador for the trail. Following Leave No Trace principles is essential to ensure the trail remains a positive force for the local communities.
Key Principles for Via Transilvanica: