Italy — Rome
Walk Italy's historic Via Francigena, a 1000km cultural pilgrimage from alpine heights to Rome. This moderate, 40-45 day route offers a varied landscape of rolling hills and ancient towns, connecting you to Italy's heart. Follow in medieval footsteps across a living museum of culture and gastronomy.
Distance: 1000.0 km
Elevation Gain: 10000 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 40-45 days (depends on starting point)
The Via Francigena is Europe’s premier cultural pilgrimage route—a historic 1,000 km journey through the heart of Italy, stretching from the dramatic alpine peaks of the Great St Bernard Pass to the spiritual epicentre of St Peter’s Square in Rome. Following the footsteps of medieval pilgrims, this route traverses a living museum of Italian landscape, culture, and gastronomy. Unlike modern hiking trails designed for pure wilderness, the Via Francigena is a "cammino"—a path of connection that weaves through ancient Roman roads, medieval walled cities, sprawling vineyards, and the quiet, sun-drenched plains of the Po Valley. It is a journey that demands physical endurance but rewards the walker with a profound sense of historical continuity and the unparalleled hospitality of the Italian countryside.
The Via Francigena is not merely a trail; it is a historical artery that has pumped life through the Italian peninsula for over a millennium. While the full route traditionally begins in Canterbury, England, the Italian section is widely considered the most spectacular and culturally rich segment. It begins with a breathtaking descent from the high Alps into the Aosta Valley, where snow-capped peaks and Roman ruins set a dramatic tone. From there, the path levels out into the vast, fertile plains of the Po Valley—the "rice bowl" of Italy—where the challenge shifts from vertical gain to the mental endurance of long, flat stretches through historic cities like Vercelli, Pavia, and Piacenza.
The journey reaches its aesthetic peak as it crosses the Apennine Mountains via the Cisa Pass, descending into the rolling hills of Tuscany. Here, the trail follows the iconic white roads (strade bianche) through a landscape of cypress trees, olive groves, and world-renowned vineyards. Walkers pass through the medieval jewels of Lucca, San Gimignano, and Siena, each offering a masterclass in Gothic and Renaissance architecture. The final leg through the region of Lazio introduces volcanic lakes, ancient Etruscan paths cut deep into tufa rock, and the increasingly palpable anticipation of the approach to the Eternal City. The arrival in Rome, walking through the Monte Mario park for a first glimpse of St Peter’s Dome, is a moment of profound emotional and physical triumph.
Walking the Via Francigena is an exercise in "slow travel." It is about the rhythm of the morning espresso in a quiet village square, the shared meals with fellow pilgrims in a parish hostel, and the changing dialects and flavours as you cross regional borders. While the terrain is rarely technical, the sheer distance of 1,000 km requires careful pacing and a resilient spirit. It is a route that invites reflection, where the history of Europe is written in the stones beneath your boots and the landscapes that have inspired artists for centuries.
The origins of the Via Francigena date back to the early Middle Ages. The name itself means "the road that comes from France," reflecting its role as the primary corridor for pilgrims, merchants, and armies travelling from the Frankish kingdoms to Rome. While various routes existed, the definitive itinerary was immortalised in 990 AD by Sigeric the Serious, the Archbishop of Canterbury. Upon being named Archbishop, Sigeric travelled to Rome to receive his pallium (a vestment of office) from the Pope. On his return journey, he meticulously recorded the 79 stages of his trip in a diary, providing the historical blueprint for the modern route we walk today.
For centuries, the Via Francigena was one of the three great Christian pilgrimages, alongside the route to Jerusalem and the Camino de Santiago to Compostela. It was a dangerous and arduous undertaking, requiring travellers to navigate mountain passes, avoid bandits, and find shelter in monastic hospitals. Along the way, a unique infrastructure of "spedali" (hospitals) and "canoniche" (rectories) developed to care for the poor and the pious. This network of hospitality laid the foundations for the European concept of the "inn" and fostered a shared cultural identity across the continent.
After centuries of decline due to the rise of modern transport and shifting political borders, the Via Francigena was rediscovered in the late 20th century. In 1994, the Council of Europe recognised it as a "Cultural Route," sparking a massive effort by local volunteers and governments to waymark the path and restore the ancient tradition of pilgrim hospitality. Today, the route is a bridge between the past and the present, where modern walkers use GPS and lightweight gear but still carry the "Credenziale" (pilgrim passport) to be stamped at the same churches and monasteries that welcomed Sigeric over a thousand years ago.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
Choosing the right time to walk the Via Francigena is critical for both safety and enjoyment. Because the route spans the entire length of Italy, weather conditions can vary dramatically between the northern mountains and the southern plains.
Spring (April to June): This is arguably the best time to walk. The Aosta Valley is lush with alpine flowers, the Po Valley is not yet too humid, and Tuscany is a vibrant, emerald green. Temperatures are generally mild (15–25°C), making for comfortable walking. However, the Great St Bernard Pass may still be blocked by snow until early June, requiring a bus or tunnel transit for the very first stage.
Autumn (September to October): Another prime window. The intense heat of summer has faded, and the landscape turns to shades of gold and ochre. This is the season of the "vendemmia" (grape harvest) and truffle festivals, offering incredible culinary rewards. The light in Tuscany during October is legendary among photographers for its soft, golden quality.
Summer (July to August): Walking in mid-summer is discouraged for all but the most heat-tolerant. Temperatures in the Po Valley and Lazio can frequently exceed 35–40°C with high humidity. Many smaller villages effectively shut down for the August holidays, and the lack of shade on the "strade bianche" of Tuscany can make the journey physically dangerous due to heatstroke and dehydration.
Winter (November to March): The route is technically open, but the Alpine and Apennine sections are covered in snow and require mountaineering experience. Many pilgrim hostels close during the winter months, and the shorter daylight hours and frequent rain in central Italy make for a somber, challenging experience. This is only recommended for those seeking extreme solitude and who are prepared for limited services.
Phase 1: The Alps and Aosta Valley (Days 1–7)
Phase 2: The Po Valley Plains (Days 8–14)
Phase 3: Crossing the Po and the Apennines (Days 15–21)
Phase 4: Northern Tuscany and Lucca (Days 22–28)
Phase 5: The Heart of Tuscany (Days 29–34)
Phase 6: Val d'Orcia and Northern Lazio (Days 35–40)
Phase 7: The Final Approach to Rome (Days 41–45)
Walking 1,000 km across Italy requires more than just physical fitness; it requires logistical coordination and mental readiness. While the trail is well-marked with the iconic yellow pilgrim symbol and the red-and-white stripes of the CAI (Club Alpino Italiano), you should be comfortable with basic navigation using a GPS app or physical maps. Fitness preparation should focus on back-to-back walking days; aim to be comfortable walking 20–25 km per day with a 10 kg pack for at least three consecutive days before starting.
Logistically, you must obtain a "Credenziale del Pellegrino" (Pilgrim Passport). This document identifies you as a legitimate pilgrim, granting access to low-cost religious accommodation and qualifying you for the "Testimonium" certificate upon arrival in Rome. You can order this online from the European Association of the Via Francigena (EAVF) or pick one up at major starting points like Aosta or Lucca. Base yourself in Aosta for a day before starting to acclimatise to the mountain air and finalise your supplies.
The Via Francigena offers a unique hierarchy of accommodation that caters to different budgets and spiritual intentions. Unlike the Camino de Santiago, the network is less dense, so booking a day or two in advance is highly recommended, especially in Tuscany.
Types of Accommodation:
Facilities and Costs: Most pilgrim-specific accommodation provides a bed, pillow, and blanket, but a lightweight sleeping bag or silk liner is mandatory for hygiene. WiFi is common in towns but rare in religious houses. Expect to pay between 15 and 30 Euros per night for pilgrim-standard lodging. In the off-season (November–March), many religious hostels close, so always call ahead.
There is no "permit" required to walk the Via Francigena in the sense of a restricted-entry pass. However, the Credenziale del Pellegrino (Pilgrim Passport) functions as your official identification. Without it, you will not be allowed to stay in many of the low-cost religious hostels, and you will not be eligible for the "Testimonium" in Rome.
How to obtain the Credenziale:
The Testimonium: This is the official parchment certificate awarded to those who have completed at least the last 100 km on foot (from Viterbo) or 200 km by bicycle. To receive it, you must present your stamped Credenziale at the Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi office near St Peter’s Square or the sacristy of St Peter’s Basilica.
Costs and Fees: While there are no trail fees, you should budget for the following daily expenses:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Via Francigena Section (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Via Francigena Section, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Via Francigena passes through some of Italy's most famous regions. Consider taking "rest days" to explore:
The Via Francigena is generally a safe route, but walkers should be aware of specific regional hazards:
Road Walking: Unlike the Camino de Santiago, significant portions of the Via Francigena (especially in the Po Valley and Lazio) involve walking on the shoulders of paved roads. Always walk facing traffic, wear high-visibility gear or a reflective strip on your pack, and be extremely cautious on blind bends. Italian drivers can be fast and the roads narrow.
Heat and Hydration: From June to September, heat exhaustion is a genuine risk. Start your walk at dawn (5:00 AM or 6:00 AM) to finish before the peak afternoon heat. Drink at least 3–4 litres of water per day. Public fountains are common, but always check for the sign "Acqua Potabile" (Potable Water).
Stray Dogs: In rural parts of Tuscany and Lazio, you may encounter Maremma sheepdogs guarding livestock. They are large and protective. Do not approach the flock; give them a wide berth and keep a steady, calm pace. Carrying trekking poles can provide a psychological barrier if a dog becomes overly inquisitive.
Signage: While the route is well-marked, signs can be vandalised or obscured by vegetation. Always carry a secondary form of navigation (GPS app). If you haven't seen a marker for more than 500 metres, stop and check your position.
San Gimignano: Known as the "Manhattan of the Middle Ages," this hilltop town is famous for its 14 surviving stone towers. A short detour to the "Gelateria Dondoli" in the main square—frequently cited as the best gelato in the world—is a mandatory pilgrim ritual.
Monteriggioni: This tiny, perfectly circular walled village was mentioned by Dante in the *Divine Comedy*. Walking the perimeter of the walls at sunset offers a stunning view of the surrounding Tuscan countryside.
Abbey of Sant'Antimo: Located a few kilometres off the main path near Montalcino, this Romanesque abbey is one of the most beautiful in Italy. If you time your visit right, you can hear the monks performing Gregorian chants.
The Vie Cave: Near the town of Pitigliano (a longer detour), these are ancient roads carved deep into the tufa rock by the Etruscans. The walls can be up to 20 metres high, creating a cool, mossy, and mysterious atmosphere.
The Via Francigena passes through private farmland, vineyards, and historic town centres. Respecting the land and the local communities is essential for the route's survival.
