France — Chambéry
Circumnavigate France's first national park on the Vanoise National Park Loop, a 110km demanding trek through the French Alps. This 7-9 day high-altitude route traverses glaciated peaks and alpine meadows, offering stunning panoramas and the chance to spot ibex. Expect rugged terrain and significant ascents on this protected wilderness path.
Distance: 110.0 km
Elevation Gain: 7000 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 7-9 days
The Vanoise National Park Loop, often referred to as the Grand Tour de la Vanoise, is a premier high-altitude trekking experience located in the Savoie department of the French Alps. As France's first national park, established in 1963, the Vanoise offers a pristine sanctuary of glaciated peaks, turquoise alpine lakes, and vast mountain pastures. The loop typically covers approximately 110 kilometres, circumnavigating the massive ice caps of the Vanoise massif, including the Pelve and the Arsine glaciers. This journey is not merely a walk but a deep immersion into a landscape defined by its geological diversity—from the jagged limestone needles of the Dents de la Portetta to the dark, metamorphic schists of the high passes. Hikers traverse a world where the Alpine Ibex (Bouquetin) and Chamois roam freely, and where the traditional pastoral culture of the Savoie remains alive in the high summer alpages.
The Vanoise National Park Loop is a masterclass in alpine scenery, offering a more secluded and rugged alternative to the famous Tour du Mont Blanc. While the latter is known for its international flair and constant views of the "Monarch of the Alps," the Vanoise provides a sense of profound wilderness and geological intimacy. The park is contiguous with Italy's Gran Paradiso National Park, together forming one of the largest protected areas in Western Europe. This trans-border connection allows for a flourishing ecosystem where wildlife populations are among the most stable in the Alps.
The terrain of the Vanoise is remarkably varied. The western side of the loop, near Pralognan-la-Vanoise, is characterised by dramatic limestone cliffs and the famous Lac des Vaches, where hikers cross a glacial lake on ancient stepping stones. As the trail moves east and south, the landscape transforms into vast, high-altitude plateaus and massive glacial tongues that spill down from peaks exceeding 3,500 metres, such as the Grande Casse (3,855 m). The route is physically demanding, requiring the crossing of several high passes (cols) each day, often involving steep scree slopes and occasional snow patches even in mid-summer.
Culturally, the loop is a journey through the history of the Savoie. The trail follows ancient "Salt Roads" used for centuries to transport salt from the mines of Moûtiers to Italy. Along the way, hikers encounter traditional stone-built hamlets and working dairy farms where the famous Beaufort and Tomme de Savoie cheeses are still produced using traditional methods. The network of refuges in the Vanoise is exceptional, ranging from historic stone shelters to modern, eco-friendly facilities, all providing the legendary "demi-pension" (half-board) service that makes trekking in the French Alps a culinary as well as a physical adventure.
The creation of the Vanoise National Park in 1963 was a landmark moment for French conservation. It was established primarily to save the Alpine Ibex from extinction in France. At the time, the population had dwindled to a few dozen individuals. Today, thanks to the park's strict protections, thousands of ibex thrive within its borders, often seen perched on dizzying cliffs or grazing near the high passes. The park's emblem, the stylized horns of the ibex, is a constant reminder of this successful conservation effort.
Human history in the Vanoise is inextricably linked to the high-altitude passes. For millennia, these mountains were not barriers but corridors. The Col de la Vanoise (2,517 m) has been a transit route since the Bronze Age. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the "Route du Sel" (Salt Road) saw endless caravans of mules carrying "white gold" across the massif. This trade brought wealth to the valleys and led to the construction of the beautiful Baroque churches found in villages like Pralognan and Termignon. The architecture of the region—thick stone walls and heavy slate (lauze) roofs—reflects a long-standing adaptation to the harsh alpine winters.
During the Second World War, the rugged terrain of the Vanoise served as a stronghold for the French Resistance (the Maquis). The high refuges and hidden valleys provided sanctuary and strategic lookout points. Today, the park balances the preservation of this rich heritage with the demands of modern tourism, ensuring that the "montagnard" way of life continues to coexist with the protection of the natural environment.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The hiking season in the Vanoise is strictly dictated by snowmelt and the opening dates of the mountain refuges. Most refuges open in mid-June and close by the third week of September. Outside of this window, the loop becomes a serious mountaineering or ski-touring undertaking, with high avalanche risk and extreme cold.
Early Summer (June to early July): This is the time of the great snowmelt. The valleys are vibrant green, and the alpine flowers—including the rare Soldanella and various orchids—are at their peak. However, many of the high passes, particularly the Col d'Aussois and Col de la Vanoise, will still have significant snow cover. Hikers during this period must be comfortable with snow travel and may require an ice axe or micro-spikes. The waterfalls are at their most thunderous during this time.
High Summer (July and August): This is the most popular time for the loop. The weather is generally stable, though afternoon thunderstorms are a common and serious occurrence. The high-altitude flora is spectacular, with Edelweiss and Gentians appearing in the rocky crevices. Wildlife is most active, and the marmots are frequently seen (and heard) in the alpine meadows. Refuges are often fully booked, so advanced planning is essential.
Late Summer (September): Many experienced trekkers consider September the best month for the Vanoise. The air is crisp and clear, providing the best visibility for photography. The crowds dissipate, and the autumn colours begin to tint the blueberries and grasses in shades of copper and gold. While the days are shorter and the nights are colder (often dropping below freezing at the higher refuges), the weather is typically more stable than in August.
Day 1: Pralognan-la-Vanoise to Refuge du Col de la Vanoise
Day 2: Refuge du Col de la Vanoise to Refuge d'Entre-Deux-Eaux
Day 3: Refuge d'Entre-Deux-Eaux to Refuge de l'Arpont
Day 4: Refuge de l'Arpont to Refuge du Plan d'Amont
Day 5: Refuge du Plan d'Amont to Refuge de l'Orgère
Day 6: Refuge de l'Orgère to Refuge de Péclet-Polset
Day 7: Refuge de Péclet-Polset to Refuge du Roc de la Pêche
Day 8: Refuge du Roc de la Pêche to Refuge de la Valette
Day 9: Refuge de la Valette to Pralognan-la-Vanoise
The Vanoise National Park Loop is a high-altitude trek that requires a good level of physical fitness. You should be comfortable walking 6–8 hours a day with a 10–12 kg pack, involving daily ascents and descents of 800–1,000 metres. Training on hills or using a stair climber in the months leading up to the trip is highly recommended. Logistics are relatively straightforward: the main gateway is the village of Pralognan-la-Vanoise. The nearest major airport is Lyon (LYS) or Geneva (GVA). From there, take a train to Moûtiers-Salins-Brides-les-Bains, followed by a local bus (Altibus) to Pralognan. If driving, there is long-term parking available in Pralognan, though it can be busy in August.
Accommodation on the loop is primarily in "refuges" (mountain huts). These are managed either by the Vanoise National Park authority or the Club Alpin Français (FFCAM). Most offer a "demi-pension" (half-board) option which includes dinner and breakfast. This is highly recommended as it significantly reduces your pack weight.
Hut Facilities:
What Refuges Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
Unlike many North American or New Zealand parks, there is no "entry permit" required to hike in the Vanoise National Park. Access to the trail network is free. However, the "permit" system is effectively managed through the refuge booking system. Because wild camping (bivouacking) is strictly regulated and generally prohibited in the park's core zone, your ability to do the loop is dependent on securing bed nights in the refuges.
Refuge Booking Strategy:
Bivouac Regulations:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Vanoise National Park Loop (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Vanoise National Park Loop, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Savoie region offers a wealth of activities for those looking to extend their stay before or after the trek:
Weather Awareness: The French Alps are prone to sudden and violent weather changes. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August. These often bring lightning, hail, and a rapid drop in temperature. Hikers should aim to be over high passes and near their destination by early afternoon. Always check the "Météo France" mountain forecast (displayed at every refuge) before setting out.
Altitude and Terrain: Much of the loop stays above 2,000 metres. While altitude sickness is rare at these heights, the air is thinner, and dehydration occurs more quickly. The terrain is often rocky and unstable; scree slopes require careful foot placement. Early in the season, steep snow slopes can be dangerous without proper equipment and the knowledge of how to use it.
Wildlife and Livestock: While the ibex and chamois are generally shy, you may encounter large flocks of sheep or herds of cattle. These are often protected by "Patous" (Great Pyrenees livestock guardian dogs). If you encounter a Patou, do not try to pet it or run away. Walk slowly, keep your distance, and speak in a calm voice. Do not bring domestic dogs into the park's core zone, as they are strictly prohibited to protect wildlife.
Emergency Services: The emergency number in France is 112. However, mobile coverage is very spotty in the Vanoise. Refuges are equipped with radio or satellite phones for emergencies. It is highly recommended to have mountain rescue insurance (such as that provided by the Austrian Alpine Club or similar organisations).
Pointe de l'Observatoire (3,015 m): This is the most popular "summit" side trip on the loop. Accessed from the Col de Chavière, it requires a short, easy scramble but rewards hikers with a 360-degree panorama that includes the Ecrins, the Vanoise glaciers, and a stunning view of Mont Blanc. It is one of the few 3,000-metre peaks in the region accessible to fit hikers without technical gear.
Lac des Vaches: Located on the ascent to the Col de la Vanoise, this shallow glacial lake is famous for its stepping stones. In the morning, the surrounding peaks are perfectly reflected in the still water, making it one of the most photographed spots in the French Alps.
The Monolith of Sardières: A 93-metre-high needle of cargneule rock standing alone in a larch forest near the Refuge de l'Orgère. It is a geological curiosity and a popular spot for rock climbers, but equally impressive to view from the hiking trail.
Petit Mont Blanc (2,677 m): Unlike its famous namesake, this mountain is made of white gypsum. The brilliant white rock creates a stark contrast with the surrounding green valleys and dark peaks. The summit offers an incredible perspective on the Pralognan valley and the glaciers of the Vanoise.
The Vanoise National Park is a fragile ecosystem. With over a million visitors annually, the "Leave No Trace" principles are not just suggestions; they are essential for the park's survival. The park's regulations are strictly enforced by rangers (gardes-moniteurs).
Specific Vanoise Rules:
