France — Grenoble
Tour du Taillefer: A demanding 55km, 4-5 day alpine traverse in France's Taillefer massif, south of Grenoble. This remote route offers a true mountain wilderness, crossing high passes, skirting glacial lakes, and traversing rugged scree slopes and alpine meadows. Expect spectacular panoramas and solitude on this challenging French Alps hike.
Distance: 55.0 km
Elevation Gain: 3500 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 4-5 days
The Tour du Taillefer is a challenging multi-day trek in the heart of the French Alps, specifically within the Taillefer massif, south of Grenoble. This route offers a true alpine experience, traversing high mountain passes, skirting glacial lakes, and passing through diverse landscapes ranging from alpine meadows to rugged scree slopes. It is a journey for experienced hikers seeking solitude and spectacular mountain scenery away from the more crowded routes. The massif is known for its wild beauty, dramatic peaks, and the pristine environment that rewards those who venture into its depths.
The Tour du Taillefer is a circular or linear route (depending on the chosen variation) that circumnavigates or traverses the imposing Taillefer massif. This massif, part of the Dauphiné Alps, is characterised by its granite peaks, numerous glacial lakes, and a rich biodiversity that thrives in its high-altitude environment. The trail is not as well-known as some of its more famous neighbours, which contributes to its appeal for those seeking a more remote and less commercialised hiking experience.
The terrain is demanding, with significant elevation gains and losses each day. Hikers will encounter steep ascents and descents, rocky paths, and potentially snow patches even in early summer. The reward for this effort is unparalleled: breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Alps, including the Écrins National Park, the Vercors, and the Chartreuse ranges. The lakes, such as Lac Fourchu, Lac de Brouffier, and Lac de Taillefer, offer stunning reflections of the surrounding peaks and provide refreshing spots for a break.
The route typically involves staying in mountain refuges (refuges de montagne) or bivouacking in designated areas, adding to the authentic alpine adventure. The flora and fauna are typical of the high Alps, with marmots, chamois, and a variety of alpine flowers often spotted by observant hikers. The air is crisp and clean, and the silence of the mountains is profound, broken only by the sounds of nature.
The Taillefer massif has a long history of human interaction, primarily driven by pastoralism and, in more recent times, mountaineering and hiking. For centuries, local communities from the valleys below, such as those in Séchilienne and the surrounding Isère region, would have used the lower slopes for grazing livestock during the summer months. The higher reaches, however, remained largely wild and inaccessible.
The development of mountaineering in the Alps during the 19th century brought explorers and climbers to the Taillefer. Its rugged peaks, though not as high as some of the neighbouring giants, offered challenging ascents and a sense of wild frontier. Early cartographers and geologists also explored the area, mapping its terrain and studying its unique geological formations, particularly its granite composition.
The establishment of mountain refuges in the 20th century made the massif more accessible to hikers and climbers. These refuges, often managed by local alpine clubs or private individuals, provided essential shelter and sustenance, enabling longer and more ambitious treks. The Tour du Taillefer, as a defined route, likely emerged from a combination of these historical paths and the desire to create a comprehensive circuit of the massif, linking key points of interest and refuges.
Culturally, the Taillefer is deeply connected to the Dauphiné region. The villages at its base, like Séchilienne, retain traditional alpine architecture and a way of life that has been shaped by the mountains for generations. The massif itself is seen as a natural guardian of the valleys, a source of water, and a place of both challenge and beauty.
The best time to undertake the Tour du Taillefer is from June to September. During this period, the snow generally melts from the higher passes, making the trails passable and the weather more predictable, though still highly variable.
June: Early June can still see significant snow cover at higher elevations, especially on north-facing slopes and passes. Lakes may still be partially frozen. Wildflowers begin to bloom, and the landscape is fresh and vibrant. Days are long, offering ample hiking time. However, snowmelt can lead to swollen rivers and potentially challenging stream crossings.
July and August: This is the peak season. The weather is generally at its most stable, with warm days and cool nights. Wildflowers are in full bloom, creating a spectacular display of colour. The refuges are fully operational and can be busy, especially on weekends. This is the most reliable time for snow-free conditions on the entire route.
September: Autumn colours begin to appear in the lower valleys, and the air becomes crisp and clear. The crowds thin out, offering a more tranquil experience. However, the weather can become more unpredictable, with a higher chance of early snowfalls, particularly towards the end of the month. Days are shorter, requiring careful planning of hiking times.
Weather: The Alps are notorious for rapidly changing weather. Even in summer, hikers can experience sunshine, heavy rain, thunderstorms, hail, and even snow within a single day. Temperatures can drop significantly at higher altitudes, especially at night. It is crucial to be prepared for all conditions, regardless of the season.
Day 1: Lac du Poursollet to Refuge de Taillefer
Day 2: Refuge de Taillefer to Refuge de la Pra
Day 3: Refuge de la Pra to Refuge de Roche Clouze
Day 4: Refuge de Roche Clouze to Lac du Poursollet
Alternative 5-Day Itinerary: For a more relaxed pace or to explore more side trips, consider adding an extra day, perhaps splitting the longest day or allowing for a full day of exploration around one of the refuges.
Important Notes:
The Tour du Taillefer is a demanding trek that requires careful planning and a good level of physical fitness. Given its remote location and challenging terrain, preparation is key to a safe and enjoyable experience. The closest major city is Grenoble, which serves as the primary gateway for accessing the region. From Grenoble, you can take public transport (bus line 6020) to the village of Séchilienne. From Séchilienne, a taxi is generally required to reach the trailhead at Lac du Poursollet, as public transport options are limited beyond the village. Driving is also an option, with approximately one hour of travel time from Grenoble to Lac du Poursollet. The road is paved but can be narrow and winding in sections, especially as you approach the lake.
It is highly recommended to book accommodation in refuges well in advance, particularly if you plan to hike during July or August. Many refuges operate on a half-board basis (dinner, bed, and breakfast), which simplifies logistics. Ensure you have a reliable map and compass, and consider carrying a GPS device or using a navigation app with offline maps. Inform someone of your itinerary and expected return date.
Accommodation on the Tour du Taillefer primarily consists of mountain refuges (refuges de montagne). These are typically basic but comfortable establishments offering dormitory-style sleeping arrangements and meals. Some sections may also allow for wild camping in designated areas or with specific permissions, but refuges are the standard and recommended option for this trek.
Refuge de Taillefer: Located at approximately 2,300 metres, this refuge offers stunning views and is a common starting or ending point for the trek. It provides dormitory beds and serves meals. Booking is essential.
Refuge de la Pra: Situated at around 2,050 metres, this refuge is another key stop on the route, often offering a picturesque setting near a lake. It also provides dormitory accommodation and meals. Advance booking is highly recommended.
Refuge de Roche Clouze: At approximately 2,100 metres, this refuge is typically part of the circuit, offering a place to rest and refuel. Similar to other refuges, booking is advised.
Booking Requirements: Refuges can usually be booked directly via their websites or by telephone. It is advisable to book several weeks or even months in advance for peak season. Many refuges offer half-board options (dîner, coucher, petit-déjeuner), which is convenient for multi-day treks.
Facilities Provided: Dormitory beds with blankets or duvets, common dining areas, and often basic toilet facilities. Some may have showers, but this is not guaranteed.
What's NOT Provided: Sleeping bags (a liner is often mandatory), toiletries, towels, cooking equipment (unless you are camping), and food outside of the provided meals.
Seasonal Availability: Refuges are typically open from June to September/October, depending on snow conditions and demand. Outside these months, they are usually closed and unstaffed.
Costs: Prices vary but expect to pay approximately €40-€60 per person per night for half-board. Dormitory beds alone are cheaper.
The Tour du Taillefer does not typically require specific permits for general hiking and access to the trails. The area is part of the French Alps and is generally open to the public for recreational use. However, it is important to note the following:
Always check for any local notices or advisories posted at trailheads or in nearby villages before you begin your trek. The emphasis for this route is on responsible hiking and respecting the mountain environment.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Tour Du Taillefer (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Tour Du Taillefer, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The region surrounding the Taillefer massif offers a wealth of activities for outdoor enthusiasts, allowing for extensions to your hiking trip or alternative adventures:
Weather: The most significant safety concern on the Tour du Taillefer is the unpredictable alpine weather. Conditions can change rapidly, with sudden storms, heavy rain, thunderstorms, and even snow possible at any time, even in summer. Always check the mountain forecast before setting out and be prepared to alter your plans if necessary. Hypothermia is a risk, even in warmer months, due to altitude and wind chill.
Terrain: The trail is challenging, involving steep ascents and descents, rocky paths, scree slopes, and potentially snowfields. Good quality hiking boots with ankle support are essential. Trekking poles can significantly aid stability and reduce strain on joints.
Navigation: While the main trails are generally marked, the terrain can be complex. Carry a detailed topographic map and compass, and know how to use them. A GPS device or smartphone with offline maps is a valuable backup. Do not rely solely on electronic devices, as batteries can fail, and signal may be lost.
Water: Water sources can be intermittent, especially at higher altitudes. Carry sufficient water and a reliable water filter or purification tablets. Treat all water from natural sources.
Altitude: The trek reaches significant altitudes (up to around 2,500 metres). Be aware of the symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headache, nausea, and dizziness. Ascend gradually, stay hydrated, and avoid overexertion. If symptoms persist or worsen, descend.
Wildlife: While generally not dangerous, be aware of local wildlife. Marmots are common, and you might see chamois or ibex. Respect their space and do not attempt to feed them.
Refuge Safety: Follow the rules and guidelines provided by refuge wardens. Ensure you have adequate sleeping gear and are aware of emergency procedures.
Emergency Contact: In case of emergency, the general European emergency number is 112. Ensure you have a fully charged mobile phone, though reception can be unreliable in remote mountain areas. Consider carrying a personal locator beacon (PLB) for remote treks.
Insurance: Ensure you have travel insurance that covers hiking and potential mountain rescue.
The Tour du Taillefer offers several opportunities for rewarding side trips and exploration beyond the main circuit:
Lac Fourchu: A beautiful alpine lake often visited on the first day of the trek. Its clear waters and surrounding scenery make it an ideal spot for a break and photography.
Lac de Brouffier: Another stunning glacial lake, often encountered on Day 2 or Day 4. Its location provides excellent views of the surrounding peaks and a tranquil setting.
Lac de Taillefer: This larger lake, situated at a lower altitude, is a significant landmark. Depending on the chosen route, it can be a destination in itself or a point of reference during the trek.
Summit of Taillefer (2,857 m): For experienced and fit hikers with good weather, a challenging ascent to the summit of Pic de Taillefer is a possible, albeit demanding, side trip. This would likely require an extra day or a very long and strenuous day from one of the refuges. The panoramic views from the summit are said to be exceptional.
Col de la Vache: A high pass that may be part of the route or an optional detour, offering expansive views across the massif and towards neighbouring mountain ranges.
Flora and Fauna: Keep an eye out for the diverse alpine flora, including gentians, edelweiss (though rare), and various wildflowers. Marmots are frequently seen and heard, and with luck, you might spot chamois or ibex on the higher slopes.
The Tour du Taillefer traverses a fragile alpine environment. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is paramount to preserving its beauty and ecological integrity for future generations. As you hike, remember:
By following these principles, you help ensure that the wild beauty of the Taillefer massif remains intact.
