France — Chamonix
The Tour des Fiz is a demanding 75km circuit in France's Haute-Savoie Alps, circumnavigating the imposing limestone massif near Chamonix. This 6-7 day route traverses rugged alpine terrain, high mountain pastures, and dramatic glacial cirques, offering spectacular panoramas of Mont Blanc. Expect sustained ascents, exposed sections, and breathtaking views across this challenging wilderness.
Distance: 75.0 km
Elevation Gain: 5000 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 6-7 days
The Tour des Fiz is a challenging multi-day trek in the heart of the French Alps, specifically within the Haute-Savoie region, near the iconic resort town of Chamonix. This demanding circuit circumnavigates the imposing limestone massif of the Fiz, offering a spectacular journey through rugged alpine landscapes, high mountain pastures, and dramatic glacial cirques. It is a route that tests endurance and navigation skills, rewarding walkers with breathtaking panoramas of Mont Blanc, the Aravis range, and the surrounding peaks of the Chablais and Swiss Alps.
The trail is characterised by its significant elevation gains and losses, often involving steep, exposed sections and rocky terrain. Hikers will traverse a variety of environments, from lush green valleys dotted with traditional mountain huts (refuges) to barren, rocky slopes and high alpine passes. The Tour des Fiz is not for the faint-hearted; it requires a good level of fitness, sure-footedness, and a head for heights. However, for those prepared to embrace the challenge, the experience is immensely rewarding, offering a true immersion into the wild beauty of the French Alps.
The Tour des Fiz is a circumnavigation of the dramatic limestone peaks of the Fiz massif, a geological marvel that stands as a striking contrast to the granite giants of the Mont Blanc range. This trek is a true alpine adventure, demanding a robust physical condition and a keen sense of direction. The route is designed to showcase the diverse beauty of the region, moving from verdant valleys and flower-filled meadows to stark, rocky cirques and high mountain passes that offer expansive, awe-inspiring vistas.
The trail's character is defined by its verticality. Expect sustained climbs that lead to exhilarating descents, often on narrow, sometimes exposed paths. The limestone geology of the Fiz creates a unique landscape, with dramatic cliffs, deep ravines, and karstic features. The route frequently passes by or over high mountain refuges, which serve as vital resting points and accommodation for multi-day trekkers. These refuges are often situated in breathtaking locations, providing not only shelter but also opportunities to experience the camaraderie of fellow hikers and the hospitality of the mountain communities.
The Tour des Fiz is typically undertaken in a counter-clockwise direction, starting from Passy-Plaine-Joux. This allows for a gradual introduction to the terrain before tackling the more challenging sections. The journey will take you through a variety of microclimates and ecosystems, from the dense forests of the lower slopes to the alpine meadows teeming with wildflowers in summer, and finally to the barren, windswept heights of the passes. The views are a constant reward, with the majestic Mont Blanc massif often dominating the horizon, providing a stunning backdrop to this demanding yet unforgettable alpine trek.
The region surrounding the Tour des Fiz has a rich history intertwined with pastoralism, mountaineering, and early tourism. For centuries, the high pastures (alpages) have been used for grazing livestock, particularly cows and sheep, a tradition that continues to shape the landscape and culture of the area. The existence of mountain refuges along the route is a testament to the development of mountaineering and hiking as popular pastimes, particularly from the late 19th and early 20th centuries onwards.
The development of the Tour des Fiz as a defined trek is more recent, evolving from a network of ancient shepherd's paths, military routes, and early mountaineering trails. The construction of refuges, often by local alpine clubs or private individuals, facilitated longer and more ambitious traverses of the massif. These refuges, such as the Refuge de la Portala, Refuge de Sales, and Refuge de la Pointe Percée, have become integral to the experience, offering a glimpse into the life of mountain guardians and providing essential services to trekkers.
The area's proximity to Chamonix, a global centre for mountaineering and alpinism, has also influenced its accessibility and popularity. While the Tour des Fiz itself is less technically demanding than some of the high-alpine routes in the Mont Blanc range, it offers a similarly wild and dramatic mountain experience. The limestone geology of the Fiz massif also holds scientific interest, showcasing unique geological formations and a distinct flora and fauna adapted to these specific conditions.
The prime season for hiking the Tour des Fiz is from mid-June to mid-September. During this period, the snow generally recedes from the higher passes, and the mountain refuges are typically open and staffed.
Late June to July: This is often considered the most beautiful time for the trek. The alpine meadows are bursting with wildflowers, creating a vibrant carpet of colour against the dramatic mountain backdrop. The days are long, offering ample daylight for hiking. However, there can still be lingering snow patches on shaded north-facing slopes, and early summer storms are not uncommon.
August: This is the peak of the summer season, with warm temperatures and generally stable weather. The wildflowers may have passed their peak, but the landscape remains stunning. August is also the busiest month, so booking accommodation in refuges well in advance is crucial. Sandflies can sometimes be present, though generally less of an issue than in some other alpine regions.
September: The autumn colours begin to appear in the lower valleys, offering a different kind of beauty. The air is often crisp and clear, providing excellent visibility. The crowds thin out considerably, making for a more tranquil experience. However, the days are shorter, and the weather can become more unpredictable, with the first snowfalls possible at higher elevations towards the end of the month. Refuges may begin to close towards the end of September.
Weather Considerations: The Alps are notorious for rapidly changing weather. Even in summer, you can experience sunshine, heavy rain, thunderstorms, hail, and even snow within a single day, especially at higher altitudes. Temperatures can fluctuate significantly between day and night and with altitude. It is essential to be prepared for all conditions.
Day 1: Passy-Plaine-Joux to Refuge de Sales
Day 2: Refuge de Sales to Refuge de la Portala
Day 3: Refuge de la Portala to Refuge de la Pointe Percée
Day 4: Refuge de la Pointe Percée to Refuge de la Vogealle
Day 5: Refuge de la Vogealle to Refuge de Moëde d'Arpette (Switzerland)
Day 6: Refuge de Moëde d'Arpette to Champex-Lac (Switzerland) and return to Passy
Note: This itinerary is a suggestion and can be adapted based on fitness levels, weather conditions, and personal preferences. Some may prefer to extend the trek to 7 days for a more relaxed pace or to explore additional side routes.
The Tour des Fiz is a serious undertaking that requires thorough preparation. Begin by assessing your fitness level; this trek involves significant daily elevation changes and long hours of walking over challenging terrain. It is recommended to have experience with multi-day hikes and to be comfortable with exposed sections and heights. Training should include hill walking with a loaded pack, focusing on building stamina and leg strength.
Logistics are key. The nearest major transport hub is Geneva (GVA) in Switzerland, from which you can travel by train or bus to Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. From Chamonix, local buses or taxis can take you to Passy-Plaine-Joux, the primary trailhead. Alternatively, if arriving by car, there is parking available in Passy, though it may be limited during peak season.
Accommodation in the mountain refuges is mandatory for multi-day treks and must be booked well in advance, especially during July and August. Refuges typically offer half-board (dinner and breakfast), which is highly recommended for convenience and nutrition. Ensure you have a reliable way to contact refuges for bookings, as internet access can be sporadic.
The Tour des Fiz relies on a network of mountain refuges (huts) that provide essential accommodation and sustenance for trekkers. These refuges are typically open from mid-June to mid-September.
Refuge Facilities:
What's NOT Provided:
Booking Requirements:
Example Refuges on the Tour des Fiz:
For the Tour des Fiz itself, no specific hiking permits are required. The trails are generally part of the public domain or managed by local authorities and alpine clubs. However, access to the mountain refuges requires advance booking and payment for accommodation and meals.
Refuge Bookings:
National Park Regulations: While no specific permits are needed for hiking, always adhere to local regulations regarding camping (generally not permitted outside designated areas), fires, and waste disposal. Respect the natural environment and wildlife.
Precisely traced GPX for the Tour Des Fiz, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The region around the Tour des Fiz offers a wealth of activities for those looking to extend their stay or explore beyond the main trek:
Weather: Alpine weather is notoriously unpredictable. Be prepared for rapid changes, including thunderstorms, heavy rain, strong winds, and even snow, especially at higher altitudes. Always check the mountain forecast before setting out each day and be ready to alter your plans if conditions deteriorate.
Terrain: The Tour des Fiz involves steep ascents and descents, rocky paths, scree slopes, and some exposed sections. Good footwear with excellent grip is essential. Trekking poles can significantly improve stability and reduce the impact on your joints.
Altitude: While the Tour des Fiz does not reach extreme altitudes, some passes can exceed 2,400 metres. Be aware of the symptoms of altitude sickness, although it is less common on this trek than on higher mountain expeditions. Ensure you are well-hydrated and acclimatised.
Navigation: While the main trails are generally well-marked, it is crucial to carry a detailed map and compass and know how to use them. GPS devices or smartphone apps with offline maps are valuable additions, but always have a backup. Fog or snow can obscure trails, making navigation challenging.
Refuge Safety: Follow the instructions of the refuge wardens. Be mindful of noise levels, especially during sleeping hours. Ensure you have your sleeping bag liner and any personal items organised to minimise disruption to others.
Emergency Contacts: Know the emergency numbers for France (112) and Switzerland (144). Carry a fully charged mobile phone, though signal coverage is often limited in the mountains. Consider carrying a personal locator beacon (PLB) for remote areas.
Water: Always treat water from natural sources before drinking, even if it appears clear. Refuges provide potable water, but it's wise to carry purification methods as a backup.
Wildlife: While large predators are rare, be aware of potential encounters with chamois, ibex, marmots, and various bird species. Do not feed wild animals.
Cascade de la Salles: Located on the first day's ascent from Passy-Plaine-Joux, this impressive waterfall is a beautiful natural feature and a good spot for a short break.
Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval: This vast, horseshoe-shaped valley is a highlight of the trek, with towering limestone cliffs and numerous smaller waterfalls cascading down its walls. It offers a dramatic and awe-inspiring landscape.
Col de la Portala (2,152 m): This pass offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding Fiz massif and the valleys below. It's a key point on the route and a great spot for photos.
Col de la Pointe Percée (2,400 m): The highest point on this suggested itinerary, this pass provides breathtaking vistas. The Pointe Percée itself is the highest peak in the Fiz range and a challenging climb for experienced mountaineers.
Champex-Lac: The charming Swiss village at the end of the trek is a picturesque destination with a beautiful lake, offering a pleasant contrast to the rugged mountain terrain. It's a good place to relax and enjoy the alpine atmosphere before returning to France.
Local Flora and Fauna: Keep an eye out for the diverse alpine flora, especially in the meadows during early summer, and for wildlife such as chamois, ibex, and marmots.
The Tour des Fiz traverses a fragile alpine environment. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is paramount to preserving its beauty and ecological integrity for future generations.
By following these principles, you contribute to the conservation of the stunning alpine landscapes of the Tour des Fiz.
