Canada — Jasper
Canada's Tonquin Valley Trail: a 45km moderate multi-day walk through Jasper National Park's pristine subalpine wilderness. Traverse McCarib and Astoria passes to witness the staggering Ramparts, a 1,000-metre quartzite wall rising from Amethyst Lake. This protected route offers immense geological scale and stunning high-altitude panoramas. Allow 3-5 days for this quintessential Rockies experience.
Distance: 45.0 km
Elevation Gain: 820 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 3-5 days
The Tonquin Valley Trail is widely considered the crown jewel of Jasper National Park, offering a quintessential Canadian Rockies experience that combines immense geological scale with pristine subalpine wilderness. Stretching approximately 45 kilometres through the McCarib and Astoria passes, this multi-day journey leads hikers into a high-altitude sanctuary dominated by the Ramparts—a staggering 1,000-metre wall of quartzite peaks that rise vertically from the shores of Amethyst Lake. Unlike many other popular trails in the region, the Tonquin Valley provides a profound sense of isolation, where the silence is broken only by the whistle of hoary marmots or the distant thunder of calving glaciers. It is a landscape of extremes: delicate alpine meadows carpeted in wildflowers, treacherous mud-choked valleys, and some of the most dramatic mountain scenery on the North American continent. For those seeking to witness the raw, unedited power of the Rockies, the Tonquin Valley is an essential pilgrimage.
The Tonquin Valley is a high-altitude basin that sits at the intersection of several major mountain ranges within the Jasper backcountry. Its reputation is built primarily on the visual impact of the Ramparts, a jagged semi-circle of peaks including Mount Geikie, Turret Mountain, and Barbican Peak. These mountains do not merely border the valley; they loom over it, creating a vertical backdrop that reflects perfectly in the turquoise waters of Amethyst Lake. The trail itself is a journey of transition, moving from the dense lodgepole pine and Douglas fir forests of the lower valleys into the expansive, wind-swept meadows of the alpine zone. Because the valley floor sits at a relatively high elevation (approximately 1,900 to 2,000 metres), hikers spend a significant portion of their trip above the treeline, enjoying unobstructed views that stretch for kilometres in every direction.
While the scenery is world-class, the Tonquin Valley is also famous among the hiking community for its physical demands—specifically its mud and its mosquitoes. The valley is a massive drainage basin, and even in the height of summer, sections of the trail can remain boggy and saturated. This requires a certain level of mental fortitude and high-quality waterproof footwear. Furthermore, the valley is a critical habitat for the Southern Mountain Caribou, one of the most endangered species in the Canadian Rockies. To protect this fragile population, Parks Canada strictly regulates access, particularly during the winter and early spring. Walking here is a privilege that comes with the responsibility of being a silent observer in a highly sensitive ecological zone. The reward for navigating the mud and the bugs is an encounter with a landscape that feels ancient and untouched, a place where the scale of the mountains makes human concerns feel delightfully insignificant.
The route is typically completed as a point-to-point hike, starting at the Portal Creek trailhead and finishing at the Astoria trailhead (or vice versa). This requires a vehicle shuttle or a pre-arranged transport plan. Alternatively, some hikers choose to enter and exit via the same trailhead, though this misses the varied scenery of the two distinct passes. Regardless of the chosen direction, the Tonquin Valley demands respect for its weather, its wildlife, and its rugged terrain.
The human history of the Tonquin Valley is as layered as the sedimentary rock of the Ramparts. For millennia, the area was part of the traditional territories of the Stoney Nakoda, Secwépemc, and Upper Athabasca Valley Métis peoples. These Indigenous groups utilised the high passes for travel, hunting, and gathering, maintaining a deep spiritual and practical connection to the land long before the arrival of European explorers. The valley was a source of sustenance and a vital corridor through the formidable barrier of the Continental Divide.
The valley's modern name is derived from the "Tonquin," a ship owned by the Pacific Fur Company that was destroyed off the coast of Vancouver Island in 1811. The naming reflects the era of the fur trade, when the North West Company and the Hudson’s Bay Company were competing to find efficient routes through the mountains to the Pacific. However, the Tonquin Valley itself remained largely "undiscovered" by the Western world until the early 20th century. It was the legendary explorer and botanist Mary Schäffer Warren who, in 1911, helped bring international attention to the region. Her descriptions of the "indescribable beauty" of the Ramparts and Amethyst Lake sparked interest among the burgeoning mountaineering community.
In 1915, the legendary surveyor Morrison Bridgland mapped the area in detail, providing the first comprehensive look at the valley's topography. The Ramparts were named by members of the Alpine Club of Canada, who saw in the sheer quartzite walls a resemblance to the defensive fortifications of a medieval fortress. Since then, the valley has become a focal point for conservation efforts. The establishment of Jasper National Park in 1907 provided the framework for protection, but it was the later recognition of the valley as critical caribou habitat that led to the modern, highly regulated management style seen today. Every step taken on the trail is a step through a landscape that has been fought for by conservationists and cherished by generations of mountain lovers.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for hiking the Tonquin Valley is remarkably short due to its high elevation and northern latitude. Snow can linger on Maccarib Pass well into July, and the first autumn blizzards often arrive by mid-September. Understanding the nuances of these few months is critical for a successful trip.
July: This is the month of the great awakening. As the snow melts, the alpine meadows erupt in a carpet of wildflowers, including western anemone, Indian paintbrush, and heather. However, July is also the peak of "bug season." The standing water in the valley floor provides a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes and blackflies, which can be relentless. Hikers in July must be prepared with full bug jackets and high-concentration repellent. Trail conditions are often at their muddiest during this time as the ground thaws and snowmelt drains through the valley.
August: Generally considered the prime month for the Tonquin Valley. The insect population begins to decline (though they never truly disappear), and the trail starts to dry out, making the boggy sections more manageable. The weather is typically more stable, with warm days and cool nights, though afternoon thunderstorms are common. This is the busiest time for the trail, and backcountry campsites will be at full capacity.
September: For many experienced hikers, September is the best time to visit. The mosquitoes are gone, and the subalpine larch trees and dwarf birch turn brilliant shades of gold and orange. The air is crisp and clear, providing the best visibility for photography. However, the risk of snow increases significantly. Temperatures frequently drop well below freezing at night, and hikers must be prepared for full winter conditions at any moment. By late September, many of the seasonal bridges may be removed, and the trail officially enters its winter closure period to protect the caribou.
Winter and Spring: The Tonquin Valley is closed to all human access from November 1st to May 15th (and often later depending on snow conditions) to prevent the disturbance of the endangered Southern Mountain Caribou during their most vulnerable season. There is no winter trekking or skiing permitted in the main valley basin.
Day 1: Portal Creek Trailhead to Maccarib Campground
Day 2: Maccarib Campground to Amethyst Lake or Surprise Point
Day 3: Exploration and Side Trips
Day 4: Amethyst Lake to Astoria Trailhead
Important Notes:
The Tonquin Valley is a remote backcountry destination that requires significant physical preparation and logistical planning. Hikers should be in good cardiovascular condition, as the first and last days involve long distances with heavy packs. Because the trail is point-to-point, you must organise transport between the Portal Creek and Astoria trailheads. These are approximately 20 kilometres apart by road. Most hikers either use two vehicles or book a private shuttle service in Jasper. There is no public transport to the trailheads.
Before leaving Jasper, check the latest trail reports at the Parks Canada Information Centre. They provide updates on bridge washouts, bear activity, and snow levels on the passes. Ensure you have a valid Parks Canada Discovery Pass for your vehicle and that your backcountry permit is printed and accessible. Jasper townsite is your last chance for supplies; it has several well-equipped outdoor stores and supermarkets, but prices are higher than in major cities like Edmonton.
Accommodation in the Tonquin Valley consists of Parks Canada backcountry campgrounds and two privately operated lodges. There are no random camping zones; you must stay at the site designated on your permit.
Backcountry Campgrounds: The primary campgrounds are Portal Creek, Maccarib, Amethyst Lake, Surprise Point, Clitheroe, and Astoria. Each site typically includes:
Private Lodges: For those seeking more comfort, Tonquin Valley Adventures and Tonquin Valley Lodge offer rustic cabin accommodation and catered meals. These must be booked directly with the operators and often sell out a year in advance. They provide a "glamping" experience in the heart of the wilderness, including horse-pack services for gear transport.
Wates-Gibson Hut: Operated by the Alpine Club of Canada, this large stone hut is located near Outpost Lake, slightly off the main Astoria River trail. It requires a separate booking through the ACC and offers a communal sleeping area and kitchen facilities.
All overnight stays in the Tonquin Valley require a Parks Canada Backcountry Permit. The reservation system typically opens in early to mid-March for the upcoming summer season. Because the Tonquin Valley is one of the most sought-after destinations in the Canadian Rockies, campsites often sell out within minutes of the system going live. It is highly recommended to have your itinerary, preferred dates, and payment information ready the moment the portal opens.
Booking Process:
Costs and Regulations:
Cancellations: If you cannot make your trip, please cancel your reservation as early as possible. This allows other hikers to access the valley and helps Parks Canada manage the high demand. Refunds are available minus the reservation and cancellation fees, provided you cancel at least 3 days before your start date.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Tonquin Valley Trail (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Tonquin Valley Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Jasper National Park is a vast wilderness with endless opportunities for exploration. If you have extra time before or after your Tonquin Valley trek, consider these activities:
Wildlife Safety: The Tonquin Valley is prime Grizzly and Black Bear habitat. You are walking through their home. Always carry bear spray in an easy-to-reach location and know how to use it. Make noise while hiking, especially in dense brush or near rushing water, to avoid surprising a bear. Store all food, toiletries, and trash in the provided bear lockers at all times. Never eat inside your tent. Additionally, be respectful of the caribou; if you see them, keep a distance of at least 100 metres and do not approach them for photos.
Weather Hazards: Weather in the Rockies is notoriously unpredictable. Even in August, a sunny morning can turn into a freezing sleet storm by afternoon. Hypothermia is a genuine risk. Always carry a full set of waterproof layers and an insulating mid-layer, regardless of the forecast. If lightning begins while you are on Maccarib Pass, descend to a lower elevation immediately and avoid standing near isolated trees or high points.
Water and Health: All water in the backcountry must be treated. While the streams look pristine, they can carry Giardia lamblia (beaver fever), which causes severe gastrointestinal distress. Use a filter, UV purifier, or boiling method. Blisters are the most common injury on this trail due to the wet conditions; treat "hot spots" immediately with moleskin or tape before they become full blisters.
Emergency Communication: There is no mobile phone reception in the Tonquin Valley. It is highly recommended to carry a satellite communication device (such as a Garmin inReach or Zoleo) for emergencies. Ensure someone at home knows your itinerary and your expected return time. If an injury occurs, stay with the injured person and use your satellite device to contact Jasper Park Dispatch.
The Eremite Valley: This is the most popular side trip from the Amethyst Lake area. Following the trail south from Surprise Point, you enter a narrow, dramatic valley that leads toward the glaciers of the Continental Divide. The scenery here is even more rugged than the main valley, with hanging glaciers and turquoise tarns tucked under the peaks of Mount Erebus and Mount Outpost. It is a 10–12 km return trip from Surprise Point.
Moat Lake: Located at the northern end of the Ramparts, Moat Lake offers a different perspective of the mountain wall. The trail is less defined than the main route, providing a more "off-the-beaten-path" feel. It is an excellent spot for birdwatching and finding solitude away from the main campgrounds.
The Ramparts Shoreline: Simply walking the western shore of Amethyst Lake allows you to stand directly beneath the 1,000-metre cliffs. The scale is difficult to comprehend until you are at the base of the talus slopes. Look for "rock flour"—the fine glacial silt that gives the lake its unique colour—and watch for pikas scurrying among the boulders.
Maccarib Pass Viewpoint: If you have extra energy on Day 1 or Day 4, explore the ridges adjacent to Maccarib Pass. Gaining just 100 metres of elevation above the trail provides a panoramic view that encompasses the entire Tonquin Valley to the west and the Portal Creek drainage to the east.
The Tonquin Valley is a fragile subalpine ecosystem that sees thousands of visitors each year. To preserve its beauty and protect its wildlife, all hikers must strictly adhere to Leave No Trace principles. The survival of the Southern Mountain Caribou depends on our ability to minimise our impact on their habitat.
Core Principles for the Tonquin:
