New Zealand — Ohakune
New Zealand's premier one-day walk, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, is a 19.4km demanding traverse through a raw, volcanic landscape in Tongariro National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site offers a world of extremes, from glacial valleys to ancient lava flows, with stunning panoramas and unique geological formations. Allow 7-9 hours for this unforgettable alpine route.
Distance: 19.4 km
Elevation Gain: 765 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 7-9 hours
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is widely regarded as the finest one-day trek in New Zealand and frequently ranks among the top ten single-day walks in the world. Spanning 19.4 kilometres across a raw, volcanic landscape in the heart of the North Island, this journey traverses the remarkable terrain of Tongariro National Park—New Zealand’s oldest national park and a dual UNESCO World Heritage site. The track leads walkers through a world of extremes, from cold glacial valleys and ancient lava flows to steaming vents, brilliant turquoise crater lakes, and the imposing silhouettes of three active volcanoes: Mount Tongariro, Mount Ngāuruhoe, and Mount Ruapehu. This is not merely a walk; it is a traverse of a living, breathing geological giant that demands physical endurance and deep respect for the unpredictable forces of nature.
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing offers a sensory experience unlike any other in the Southern Hemisphere. The landscape is defined by its volcanic origins, featuring a stark, "lunar" aesthetic that served as the cinematic backdrop for Mordor in Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings film trilogy. As you ascend from the Mangatepopo Valley, the lush tussock and alpine herbs of the lower slopes give way to a desolate beauty of jagged black basalt, red scoria, and yellow sulphur deposits. The air often carries the faint scent of volcanic gases, a constant reminder that you are walking across an active volcanic zone. The highlight for many is the descent from Red Crater to the Emerald Lakes (Ngā Rotopounamu), where the brilliant green and blue hues of the water—caused by dissolved minerals washed down from the surrounding thermal area—contrast sharply against the dark, barren earth.
The trek is a point-to-point journey, typically walked from the Mangatepopo Valley in the west to the Ketetahi road end in the north. This direction is preferred as it involves less overall climbing (765 m ascent versus 1,125 m descent), though the descent is notoriously taxing on the knees. The weather in this alpine environment is famously volatile; it is not uncommon to experience gale-force winds, freezing temperatures, and torrential rain even in the height of summer. Consequently, the crossing requires a level of preparation far beyond that of a standard coastal or forest walk. Walkers must be self-sufficient, physically capable of sustained uphill movement at altitude, and mentally prepared for the possibility of turning back if conditions deteriorate.
Beyond the geology, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a journey through a landscape of immense spiritual significance. To the local iwi (tribe) Ngāti Tūwharetoa, the peaks are ancestors and sacred guardians. The dual World Heritage status recognises not only the exceptional volcanic features but also the cultural links that bind the Māori people to this land. Walking here is a privilege that carries the responsibility of "kaitiakitanga" (guardianship)—protecting the environment and respecting the "tapu" (sacred) nature of the mountain summits, which walkers are asked not to climb.
The history of Tongariro National Park is a story of visionary leadership and profound cultural heritage. In 1887, Te Heuheu Tūkino IV (Horonuku), the paramount chief of Ngāti Tūwharetoa, recognised that the sacred peaks of Tongariro, Ngāuruhoe, and Ruapehu were under threat from private land sales and commercial exploitation. In a move of extraordinary foresight, he gifted the mountain peaks to the people of New Zealand, under the condition that they be protected as a national park. This act created the first national park in New Zealand and the fourth in the world. The gift was intended to ensure that the "mana" (prestige) of the mountains remained intact and that the land would be preserved for all people, forever.
The volcanic history of the area spans hundreds of thousands of years. Mount Tongariro is a complex of multiple volcanic cones, with the most recent significant eruptions occurring at the Te Maari craters in 2012. Mount Ngāuruhoe, the youngest and most active vent in the complex, is a classic stratovolcano that formed approximately 2,500 years ago. Its near-perfect conical shape has made it an icon of the New Zealand landscape. The track itself has evolved from early Māori routes used for traversing the central plateau into a world-class hiking trail, with the Department of Conservation (DOC) continuously working to manage the impact of the hundreds of thousands of visitors who walk the path each year.
In 1993, Tongariro became the first property to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List under the revised criteria describing "cultural landscapes." This was a landmark moment, acknowledging that the mountains are not just geological curiosities but are central to the identity and spiritual life of the Māori people. The stories of the mountains—such as the battle between the peaks for the love of the beautiful Pīhanga—are still told today, weaving the physical landscape into a rich tapestry of oral history and tradition.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The experience of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing changes dramatically with the seasons. During the summer months (late October to April), the track is generally clear of snow, and the vibrant colours of the Emerald Lakes and Red Crater are at their most vivid. This is the peak season when shuttle services operate at full capacity and the track is most accessible to recreational hikers. However, even in summer, the "alpine" designation must be taken seriously. Temperatures at the highest point (1,886 m) can be 10–15 degrees Celsius cooler than at the trailhead, and wind chill can drop the perceived temperature below freezing in an instant.
Autumn (March and April) often brings more stable weather and crisper air, providing exceptional clarity for photography. The crowds begin to thin, though the days become shorter, requiring an earlier start to ensure completion before dusk. Spring (October and November) can be beautiful but is often the most unpredictable season, with lingering snow patches on the high passes and frequent rain as weather systems move across the Tasman Sea.
Winter (May to October) transforms the crossing into a serious mountaineering expedition. The track is covered in deep snow and ice, and the risk of avalanches is a genuine concern in several sections, particularly around the South Crater and the descent from Red Crater. During this time, the crossing should only be attempted by those with alpine skills, including the use of ice axes and crampons. For most visitors, the best way to experience the crossing in winter is by booking a guided trip with a professional alpine guide who can provide the necessary equipment and safety expertise. The Emerald Lakes are often frozen and covered in snow during winter, offering a starkly different, monochromatic beauty compared to the summer months.
Section 1: Mangatepopo Carpark to Soda Springs
Section 2: Soda Springs to South Crater (The Devil's Staircase)
Section 3: South Crater to Red Crater
Section 4: Red Crater to Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake
Section 5: Blue Lake to Ketetahi Shelter
Section 6: Ketetahi Shelter to Ketetahi Carpark
Important Notes:
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a serious undertaking that requires careful logistical planning. Because it is a point-to-point hike, the most critical element is arranging transport. Most walkers stay in nearby towns such as National Park Village, Whakapapa Village, Turangi, or Ohakune and book a shuttle service. These shuttles typically drop you at the Mangatepopo trailhead in the morning and pick you up from the Ketetahi road end in the afternoon. Booking your shuttle in advance is essential, especially during the summer months (December to February).
Fitness is a major factor. You should be comfortable walking for 8 hours with a 5–8 kg pack and be capable of handling steep ascents and descents on uneven, loose terrain. If you have knee issues, trekking poles are highly recommended for the final 11 km of descent. Before you leave your accommodation, check the weather forecast specifically for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing on the MetService website. If the "Crossing" forecast predicts winds over 50 km/h or heavy rain, it is strongly advised to postpone your trip.
This is a day hike requiring no overnight accommodation on the track itself. Camping is strictly prohibited within 500 metres of the track to protect the fragile environment and respect the cultural significance of the area. The Ketetahi Hut was damaged during the 2012 eruption and now serves only as a day shelter; it is no longer available for overnight stays.
For those wishing to spend more time in the area, the Tongariro Northern Circuit (a 3–4 day Great Walk) shares part of the crossing's route. This circuit requires booking DOC huts (Mangatepopo, Oturere, and Waihohonu) or designated campsites well in advance. For the standard day crossing, walkers should base themselves in one of the following:
As of the 2023/2024 season, the Department of Conservation has implemented a free booking system for all visitors walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. While there is currently no fee for the permit itself, the booking system is mandatory. This system was introduced to manage visitor numbers, improve safety by ensuring walkers receive up-to-date weather alerts, and protect the cultural and environmental integrity of the park.
Booking Process:
Parking Restrictions:
Volcanic Risk: By entering the track, you acknowledge that you are entering an active volcanic hazard zone. DOC monitors volcanic activity through GNS Science. If the volcanic alert level rises, the track may be closed at short notice. Always respect "Track Closed" signs; they are there for your life safety.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Tongariro National Park and the surrounding Ruapehu region offer a wealth of activities for those who have extra time or if the weather prevents a crossing:
The "Alpine" Reality: Many walkers underestimate the Tongariro Alpine Crossing because it is a popular "tourist" track. However, the terrain is rugged and the weather is extreme. Hypothermia is a real risk even in summer if you are caught in rain without proper gear. Conversely, heat exhaustion and dehydration are common on hot, windless days in the exposed craters.
Weather Monitoring:
Volcanic Hazards: The track passes through several high-risk volcanic zones. In the event of an eruption:
Physical Health: If you feel unwell or are struggling by the time you reach Soda Springs, turn back. The hardest part of the climb is still ahead of you, and once you pass Red Crater, there is no easy way out except to finish the full 19.4 km. There is no "exit" in the middle of the track.
Emergency Contact: In an emergency, dial 111. Be aware that you may need to move to a high point to get a signal. Carrying a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is highly recommended for all backcountry travel in New Zealand.
Soda Springs: A 15-minute return side trip from the main track at the head of the Mangatepopo Valley. These springs are cold but highly mineralised, creating a vibrant patch of golden-green moss and watercress in an otherwise grey landscape. It is the last significant vegetation you will see before ascending into the volcanic desert.
Red Crater: The highest point of the track. The deep red colour is caused by the oxidation of iron in the scoria. Look for the "dike"—a vertical wall of solidified lava that was once a conduit for molten rock. The views from here extend across the Oturere Valley to the Kaimanawa Ranges in the east.
Emerald Lakes (Ngā Rotopounamu): These three lakes are the jewel of the crossing. The steam vents (fumaroles) nearby are active, so avoid sitting directly on steaming ground as it can be hot enough to cause burns. The lakes are highly acidic (pH 3–5), so do not touch or swim in the water.
Blue Lake (Te Tikitiki-a-Tarapata): This large lake is cold and acidic. It is a "tapu" (sacred) site to Ngāti Tūwharetoa. Walkers are asked to respect the water by not eating or drinking near its shores and never entering the water. The lake occupies an ancient vent and is remarkably deep.
Tongariro National Park is a fragile ecosystem. The plants that grow here are specially adapted to the harsh conditions and take a very long time to recover if damaged. With over 140,000 people walking the crossing annually, the cumulative impact is significant.
Principles of Respect:
