Scotland — Glasgow
Walk a classic Scottish highland stretch of the West Highland Way. This moderate 15km section from Balmaha to Rowardennan hugs Loch Lomond's eastern shores, crossing the geological Highland Boundary Fault. Enjoy stunning lochside panoramas and varied terrain over 4-6 hours. A quintessential Scottish wilderness experience.
Distance: 15.0 km
Elevation Gain: 500 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 4-6 hours
The West Highland Way is Scotland's best-loved long-distance walking route, stretching 154 kilometres from Milngavie, just outside Glasgow, to Fort William at the foot of Ben Lomond. For those seeking a condensed experience of this legendary trail, the 15-kilometre section between Balmaha and Rowardennan offers a quintessential Highland adventure. This specific day walk traverses the eastern shores of Loch Lomond, crossing the geological threshold of the Highland Boundary Fault where the gentle Lowlands transform into the rugged, mist-shrouded peaks of the Highlands. It is a journey through ancient oak woodlands, past secluded shingle beaches, and along undulating forest tracks that provide constant, breathtaking views of the "Bonnie Banks."
The West Highland Way (WHW) was officially opened in 1980 as Scotland's first Long Distance Route, and it has since become a pilgrimage for walkers from across the globe. While the full journey takes most hikers five to seven days, the section from Balmaha to Rowardennan is widely considered one of the most scenic and rewarding day walks in the United Kingdom. This 15-kilometre stretch captures the very essence of the Scottish landscape: the interplay of deep, dark water and steep, emerald-green mountains.
The walk begins in the charming village of Balmaha, a gateway to the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park. Almost immediately, walkers are immersed in the ancient Atlantic oakwoods that line the shore. These woods are a remnant of the vast forests that once covered much of Scotland, draped in mosses and ferns that thrive in the humid, temperate climate. The path is never truly flat; it mimics the rugged coastline of the loch, rising and falling over small headlands and dipping down to quiet bays like Milarrochy and Sallochy. This constant undulation accounts for the 500 metres of total elevation gain, providing a satisfying physical challenge without the sustained grind of a high-altitude climb.
What makes this section particularly special is the sense of transition. As you walk north, the landscape becomes noticeably wilder. The rounded hills of the south give way to the sharper, more dramatic silhouettes of the Arrochar Alps across the water. To your right, the massive bulk of Ben Lomond—the most southerly of Scotland's Munros (mountains over 914.4 metres)—dominates the skyline. The trail provides a front-row seat to the geological drama of the Highland Boundary Fault, a massive fracture in the Earth's crust that separates two distinct types of rock and, consequently, two distinct types of scenery. Walking this path is, quite literally, walking across the history of the Earth.
The experience is one of profound natural beauty and historical resonance. You will share the path with through-hikers carrying heavy packs toward Fort William, day-trippers from Glasgow, and perhaps the occasional local fisherman. Despite its popularity, the trail's length and the density of the forest allow for long stretches of quiet contemplation, where the only sounds are the lapping of the loch and the call of the chaffinch. It is a masterclass in Scottish scenery, accessible yet undeniably wild.
The West Highland Way is more than just a recreational path; it is a corridor through Scottish history. The route follows a patchwork of ancient tracks, including drovers' roads used for centuries to move cattle from the Highlands to markets in the Lowlands, and military roads built by the British government in the 18th century to suppress Jacobite uprisings. This specific section along Loch Lomond has been a vital artery for travel and trade for over a millennium.
The village of Balmaha itself takes its name from the Gaelic "Bealach Mo-Cha," meaning the pass of Saint Maha. Saint Maha was an early Christian missionary, and the area remains steeped in ecclesiastical history. Nearby, on the island of Inchcailloch (the "Island of the Old Woman"), lie the ruins of a 13th-century church dedicated to Saint Kentigerna. For centuries, the loch was a highway for the clans—most notably the MacGregors and the Colquhouns—whose fierce rivalries and bloody battles are the stuff of Highland legend. Rob Roy MacGregor, the famous outlaw and folk hero, operated throughout these hills, and the "Rob Roy's Prison" rock formation further north on the loch is a testament to his enduring presence in the local lore.
In the 19th century, the arrival of the steamship and the railway transformed Loch Lomond into a Victorian tourist destination. The "Bonnie Banks" were immortalised in song and poetry, most famously in the Jacobite-themed ballad "The Bonnie Banks o' Loch Lomond." This cultural romanticism helped preserve the area's beauty, eventually leading to the creation of the National Park in 2002. The West Highland Way was the brainchild of Tom Hunter, a Glasgow geographer who proposed the route in the 1960s to provide city dwellers with access to the wilderness. His vision was realised in 1980, and the trail has since become a symbol of Scotland's commitment to outdoor access and environmental stewardship.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Scottish Highlands are famous for having "four seasons in one day," and the West Highland Way is no exception. Choosing the right time to walk is crucial for both comfort and safety.
Spring (April to May): This is arguably the best time to walk the Balmaha to Rowardennan section. The weather is often at its most stable, and the ancient oakwoods are carpeted in bluebells and wild garlic. Crucially, this period precedes the emergence of the Highland midge, Scotland's most persistent and annoying insect. The air is crisp, and the peaks of the surrounding mountains may still be dusted with snow, providing spectacular photographic contrasts.
Summer (June to August): Summer brings long daylight hours—sometimes until 11:00 PM—and warmer temperatures, typically ranging from 15°C to 22°C. However, this is also the peak season for the midge. These tiny biting flies can be overwhelming on still, humid days, particularly in the sheltered forest sections. Hikers in summer must be prepared with repellent and head nets. This is also the busiest time on the trail, so expect more company.
Autumn (September to October): As the bracken turns to gold and the oak leaves transition to deep oranges and browns, the trail becomes a visual masterpiece. The midge population begins to die off with the first frosts, and the air becomes incredibly clear. September can be surprisingly mild, though October brings a higher chance of Atlantic storms and heavy rainfall. The loch often takes on a dramatic, moody character during these months.
Winter (November to March): While the trail remains open, this is a serious undertaking. Daylight is scarce (setting as early as 3:30 PM), and the path can be icy or flooded. While the low-level nature of this section means it rarely sees deep snow, the wind chill off the loch can be brutal. Only experienced walkers with appropriate cold-weather gear should attempt this section in winter.
Start: Balmaha Village
Waypoint 1: Milarrochy Bay (4 km)
Waypoint 2: Sallochy Forest and Campsite (7.5 km)
Waypoint 3: Ross Wood (11 km)
Finish: Rowardennan (15 km)
Important Notes:
While this is a day walk, it requires more preparation than a simple park stroll. The West Highland Way is a remote trail, and once you leave Balmaha, you are committed to the 15-kilometre journey to Rowardennan. There are no "escape routes" by road until you reach the finish.
Fitness: A moderate level of fitness is required. While the elevation gain is only 500 metres, the constant "up and down" nature of the path can be tiring for those not used to uneven terrain. Ensure you have broken-in footwear to avoid blisters.
Logistics: Most walkers base themselves in Glasgow or the nearby town of Drymen. If you are driving, park at the Balmaha Car Park (pay and display). Because this is a linear walk, you will need to arrange transport back to your car. Options include:
This is primarily a day hike, but if you wish to stay overnight at either end, there are several options. Note that during the peak season (May–September), these must be booked months in advance.
Balmaha:
Rowardennan:
Note on Wild Camping: Between March and September, Camping Management Byelaws are in effect along this section of Loch Lomond. You may only camp in designated campsites or with a pre-purchased permit in specific zones. Outside these zones/times, the Scottish Outdoor Access Code applies.
For the vast majority of walkers, no permits are required to hike the West Highland Way. Scotland's "Right to Roam," enshrined in the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, allows for world-class access to the countryside, provided you act responsibly.
Camping Permits: If you intend to camp overnight between Balmaha and Rowardennan during the "seasonal camping management" period (1 March to 30 September), you MUST have a permit. These are issued by the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park Authority.
Parking: The car park in Balmaha is a "Pay and Display" facility managed by Stirling Council. Ensure you pay for enough time, as wardens patrol regularly. During peak summer weekends, the car park often fills by 10:00 AM.
Organised Groups: Large charity walks or commercial groups (usually 12+ people) are encouraged to register their event with the West Highland Way Management Group to ensure the trail can accommodate the numbers and to avoid clashing with other large events.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the The West Highland Way Day Section (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the The West Highland Way Day Section, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Loch Lomond area is a hub for outdoor recreation. If you have extra time, consider these activities:
Weather Awareness: The primary danger on the West Highland Way is the weather. Hypothermia is a risk even in summer if you become wet and the wind picks up. Always check the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) for the "West Highlands" area before setting off. If the forecast predicts sustained winds over 60 km/h or heavy, continuous rain, consider postponing.
Terrain Hazards: While the path is well-maintained, it is not a pavement. Expect:
The Highland Midge: While not dangerous in a medical sense (they do not carry disease), the psychological impact of thousands of biting midges can be severe. They are most active at dawn and dusk, and on still, cloudy days. If you are allergic to insect bites, carry antihistamines.
Livestock and Wildlife: You may encounter Highland cattle or sheep on or near the path. Give them a wide berth, especially if they have calves or lambs. Keep dogs on a short lead at all times. Ticks are present in the bracken; check your legs at the end of the day and remove any ticks immediately with a proper tool to prevent Lyme Disease.
Emergency Services: In the event of a serious injury, dial 999 or 112 and ask for "Police" then "Mountain Rescue." Be prepared to give your location using a grid reference or a "What3Words" address.
The Lone Tree of Milarrochy: About 4 kilometres north of Balmaha, a solitary birch tree stands in the waters of the loch (depending on water levels). It has become a global icon for landscape photographers. It is a perfect spot for a short break and a photo.
The Cashel Forest: This "Forest for a Thousand Years" project is located near Sallochy. It features several loop trails that branch off the West Highland Way, focusing on the restoration of native Scottish woodland. It is a peaceful detour for those interested in ecology and reforestation.
The Rowardennan War Memorial: Located near the end of the section, this simple but moving memorial commemorates the members of the Scottish Mountaineering Club who fell in the World Wars. It is situated in a quiet spot with a magnificent view of the loch, offering a moment for reflection.
The "Bonnie Banks" Shingle Beaches: Between Sallochy and Rowardennan, there are several small, hidden beaches. In the height of summer, the water of Loch Lomond can be warm enough for a very brief, bracing swim. The water is exceptionally clean but deepens quickly—only strong swimmers should enter.
The West Highland Way passes through some of Scotland's most sensitive environments. With over 40,000 people walking the full route annually, the cumulative impact is significant. Following Leave No Trace principles is essential to keep the trail "bonnie."
Your responsibility as a walker:
