Ireland — Killarney
Walk Ireland's premier long-distance path, the Kerry Way, a 214km moderate route encircling the Iveragh Peninsula. This 8-10 day odyssey winds through the "Kingdom of Kerry," showcasing the dramatic MacGillycuddy's Reeks mountains and the wild Atlantic coast. Traverse ancient green roads and historic butter paths, offering varied terrain and stunning panoramas.
Distance: 214.0 km
Elevation Gain: 6500 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 8-10 days
The Kerry Way is Ireland's premier long-distance walking route, a 214-kilometre odyssey that circumnavigates the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry. Starting and finishing in the vibrant town of Killarney, this trail offers an unparalleled immersion into the "Kingdom of Kerry," a landscape defined by the dramatic collision of the MacGillycuddy's Reeks—Ireland's highest mountain range—and the wild, salt-sprayed Atlantic coast. The route follows a mix of ancient "green roads," old butter roads, famine tracks, and quiet boreens, weaving through emerald-green valleys, desolate moorlands, and charming coastal villages. It is a journey through the very soul of the Irish landscape, where the weather changes as quickly as the terrain, and every turn reveals a new vista of rugged peaks, shimmering lakes, or the distant, jagged silhouettes of the Skellig Islands.
The Kerry Way is often described as the walking version of the famous Ring of Kerry driving route, but this comparison fails to capture the true intimacy of the trail. While the road sticks to the coast, the Kerry Way strikes deep into the interior, crossing high mountain passes and traversing remote valleys that vehicles can never reach. The trail is a masterclass in topographical diversity. One day you may find yourself walking through the ancient oak forests of Killarney National Park, where red deer roam freely; the next, you are climbing the "Lack Road" into the heart of the Reeks, surrounded by towering sandstone peaks and the silence of the high bog.
The experience is defined by the contrast between the rugged wilderness and the warmth of Irish hospitality. The trail passes through a series of iconic villages—Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Sneem, and Kenmare—each offering a unique character and a welcome respite for the weary walker. These settlements are not just logistical stops; they are cultural hubs where the Irish language is still heard, and traditional music often spills out of local pubs in the evenings. The route is designed to be walked in a counter-clockwise direction, allowing the scenery to build in intensity, culminating in the spectacular coastal views of the western peninsula before returning through the quiet, forested hills of the south.
Physically, the Kerry Way is a significant undertaking. While it rarely reaches extreme altitudes, the cumulative elevation gain of 6,500 metres is substantial. The terrain is notoriously varied; walkers must contend with "Irish miles" (which always feel longer than standard ones), boggy patches that test the waterproofing of any boot, and rocky paths that require careful footwork. However, the rewards are immense. Standing atop a ridge overlooking Dingle Bay, with the Atlantic stretching toward the horizon and the smell of peat smoke drifting from a distant cottage, provides a sense of connection to the land that few other trails can provide. This is a walk for those who appreciate the subtle beauty of the changing light, the resilience of the Atlantic flora, and the profound peace of the Irish wilderness.
The Kerry Way is more than just a recreational path; it is a corridor through Irish history. The trail follows routes that have been used for millennia. Along the way, walkers will encounter Ogham stones—ancient standing stones inscribed with an early form of the Irish language—and the remains of ring forts (cashels) that date back to the Iron Age. These structures, such as the magnificent Staigue Fort near Caherdaniel, serve as silent witnesses to the sophisticated societies that once thrived on this peninsula. The land is steeped in the mythology of the Tuatha Dé Danann and the legendary hero Fionn mac Cumhaill, whose stories are inextricably linked to the mountains and lakes of Kerry.
In more recent history, the trail follows "famine roads" and "old butter roads." During the Great Famine of the 1840s, many of these paths were constructed as public works projects to provide employment for the starving population. The "Old Butter Road" was the primary artery for transporting Kerry's world-famous butter from the remote farms of the Iveragh Peninsula to the international markets in Cork City. Walking these paths today is a poignant reminder of the resilience and hardship of the people who once called these valleys home. You will pass numerous "lazy beds"—the distinctive ridges used for potato cultivation—now overgrown with grass but still visible on the hillsides, marking the sites of abandoned settlements.
The modern Kerry Way was established in the early 1980s, largely through the vision of local walking enthusiasts and the cooperation of hundreds of private landowners. Unlike many national parks in other countries, much of the Kerry Way crosses private farmland. This "permissive access" is a testament to the community spirit of the region. The trail was officially opened in 1985 and has since become a model for long-distance walking routes in Ireland, balancing the needs of modern tourism with the preservation of traditional farming practices and the protection of the fragile Atlantic ecosystem.
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The weather in Southwest Ireland is heavily influenced by the North Atlantic Drift (the Gulf Stream), which brings a temperate but highly unpredictable climate. It is often said that in Kerry, you can experience all four seasons in a single afternoon. This variability is part of the trail's charm, but it requires walkers to be prepared for anything from brilliant sunshine to horizontal rain and thick Atlantic mist.
Spring (April to May): This is arguably the best time to walk the Kerry Way. The landscape erupts in colour as the gorse (whin) turns a vibrant yellow and the bluebells carpet the woodland floors. The days are lengthening, and the air is often crisp and clear. While rain is still a possibility, the "Kerry Mist" is less frequent than in the winter months. This is also before the peak tourist season, meaning the villages are quieter and accommodation is easier to secure.
Summer (June to August): The warmest months bring the longest days, with daylight lasting until 10:00 PM or later. This allows for a relaxed pace and plenty of time for evening exploration. However, this is also the peak season for the "midge"—a tiny, biting insect that can be a nuisance on calm, damp days. Summer also brings the most visitors to the region, so booking accommodation well in advance is essential. The weather can be humid, and sudden Atlantic storms can still roll in with little warning.
Autumn (September to October): September is a fantastic month for walking, often offering "Indian Summer" conditions with stable weather and beautiful autumnal light. The heather turns the hillsides a deep purple, and the bracken begins to bronze. By October, the weather becomes more unsettled, and the days shorten significantly, but the landscape takes on a rugged, dramatic quality that is perfect for photography.
Winter (November to March): Walking the full Kerry Way in winter is only recommended for experienced hikers with excellent navigation skills and high-quality gear. The days are short, the ground is often saturated and extremely boggy, and the mountain passes can be dangerous in high winds or low visibility. Many B&Bs and services close during this period, making logistics much more difficult.
Day 1: Killarney to Black Valley
Day 2: Black Valley to Glencar
Day 3: Glencar to Glenbeigh
Day 4: Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen
Day 5: Cahersiveen to Waterville
Day 6: Waterville to Caherdaniel
Day 7: Caherdaniel to Sneem
Day 8: Sneem to Kenmare
Day 9: Kenmare to Killarney
Important Notes:
The Kerry Way is a long-distance trek that requires a solid level of cardiovascular fitness and the ability to walk 20–30 kilometres per day for multiple consecutive days. While the trail is not technically difficult, the cumulative fatigue and the often-challenging underfoot conditions (mud, bog, and loose rock) should not be underestimated. Before embarking, ensure you have "broken in" your hiking boots thoroughly to avoid blisters, which are the most common reason for walkers failing to complete the route.
Killarney serves as the primary logistical hub. It is easily accessible from Kerry Airport (KIR), which has direct flights from London, Dublin, and several European cities. Alternatively, Cork Airport (ORK) is a two-hour bus or train journey away. Killarney has a wide range of outdoor shops where you can purchase fuel, maps, and last-minute gear. It is highly recommended to spend at least one night in Killarney before starting to finalise your logistics and enjoy the local atmosphere.
The Kerry Way is unique in that it relies almost entirely on village-based accommodation rather than wilderness huts. This allows for a "slackpacking" experience where you can enjoy a hot shower, a comfortable bed, and a cooked Irish breakfast every morning.
Accommodation Types:
Booking Requirements:
One of the great advantages of the Kerry Way is that no formal permits or fees are required to walk the trail itself. The route is a public-access long-distance path that relies on the goodwill of local landowners. However, this "permissive access" comes with a responsibility to respect the land and the people who live and work on it.
Access Considerations:
Organised Groups: If you are leading a large organised group (more than 10–12 people), it is common courtesy to contact the Kerry Way committee or local tourism offices in advance to ensure your group doesn't overwhelm small sections of the trail or local services.
Precisely traced GPX for the The Kerry Way, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
County Kerry is the tourism capital of Ireland, and there are countless ways to extend your adventure:
The Kerry Mist: The most significant safety hazard on the Kerry Way is the rapid onset of low cloud and mist, which can reduce visibility to a few metres within minutes. This is particularly dangerous on the high passes like the Lack Road or the Windy Gap. If you lose the trail markers in the mist, do not wander blindly; use your compass or GPS to reorient yourself or wait for a break in the clouds.
Boggy Terrain: Many sections of the trail cross deep peat bogs. While the trail is generally marked to avoid the worst areas, heavy rain can turn the path into a quagmire. Be careful of "bright green" patches, which often indicate deep, soft mud. Use your walking poles to test the ground before committing your weight.
Road Walking: Approximately 20–30% of the Kerry Way follows quiet paved roads (boreens). While traffic is generally light, these roads are narrow and often have blind bends. Always walk on the right-hand side (facing oncoming traffic) and be prepared to step onto the verge to let vehicles pass.
Emergency Services: In the event of an emergency, dial 999 or 112 and ask for Mountain Rescue. Be prepared to give your coordinates or a clear description of your location based on the nearest trail marker or landmark. Carrying a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is a good idea for solo walkers in the more remote sections like the Black Valley or Glencar.
Staigue Fort: Located a 4-kilometre detour from the trail near Caherdaniel, this is one of the largest and finest stone ring forts in Ireland. Built entirely without mortar, its walls stand up to 5 metres high and 4 metres thick. It dates back to the early centuries AD and offers a fascinating glimpse into the defensive architecture of ancient Kerry.
Derrynane House and Beach: The home of "The Liberator" Daniel O'Connell is now a museum set within a beautiful National Historic Park. The nearby beach is one of the most beautiful in Ireland, with turquoise waters and white sand that feel more Caribbean than Atlantic on a sunny day.
Torc Waterfall: Located near the start/finish in Killarney, this 20-metre high waterfall is at its most spectacular after heavy rain. The surrounding woodland is home to rare ferns and mosses that thrive in the humid microclimate.
The Skellig Experience Centre: Located on Valentia Island (accessible via bridge from Cahersiveen), this centre provides excellent background on the history and wildlife of the Skellig Islands for those who cannot make the boat trip.
The Kerry Way passes through some of Ireland's most sensitive ecosystems, including upland bogs and ancient woodlands. Because the trail relies on the permission of private landowners, following Leave No Trace principles is essential for the trail's continued existence.
Core Principles for the Kerry Way:
