Algeria — Djanet
Uncover Algeria's Tassili n’Ajjer, a 70km desert expedition across a vast sandstone plateau. This demanding 5-7 day route winds through a UNESCO World Heritage site, revealing eroded pillars and arches in a landscape of profound wilderness. Prepare for a challenging walk through this ancient, isolated sandstone wilderness.
Distance: 70.0 km
Elevation Gain: 1200 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 5-7 days
The Tassili n’Ajjer Traverse is one of the world’s most profound wilderness experiences—a 70-kilometre journey through a vast sandstone plateau in the heart of the Algerian Sahara. Located in southeastern Algeria, near the borders of Libya, Niger, and Mali, this UNESCO World Heritage site is often described as the "world’s largest open-air museum." The traverse is not merely a hike; it is a voyage through deep time, crossing a landscape of "stone forests"—eroded sandstone pillars, arches, and deep canyons that hide over 15,000 individual rock paintings and engravings. These artworks, some dating back 12,000 years, depict a "Green Sahara" teeming with hippopotamuses, crocodiles, and giraffes, offering a haunting contrast to the hyper-arid desert of today. Starting from the oasis town of Djanet, the route involves a steep ascent onto the plateau, followed by days of navigating labyrinthine rock formations and high-altitude desert plains. This is a journey that demands physical resilience, a spirit of adventure, and a deep respect for the Tuareg culture that has guarded these secrets for centuries.
The Tassili n’Ajjer (meaning "Plateau of the Rivers" in the Tamasheq language) is a geological and archaeological marvel. Spanning over 72,000 square kilometres, the plateau rises like a fortress above the surrounding dunes of the Erg Admer. The traverse focuses on the most spectacular sections of the northern plateau, where erosion has carved the sandstone into surreal, gothic shapes that resemble ruined cities or petrified forests. Walking here feels like navigating a lunar landscape, where every turn reveals a new natural arch, a hidden guelta (water hole), or a prehistoric gallery of art.
The trek typically begins with the "Akba"—the steep, rocky passes that lead from the desert floor up to the plateau surface. These ascents are strenuous, often requiring the use of hands for balance, but they provide breathtaking views of the Djanet oasis and the shimmering dunes below. Once on the plateau, the terrain levels out into a series of sandy wadis (dry riverbeds) and rocky pavements. The silence is absolute, broken only by the wind or the occasional call of a desert bird. Because there are no marked trails or signposts, the expertise of Tuareg guides is essential. These "Blue Men of the Sahara" possess an ancestral knowledge of the terrain, knowing exactly where to find hidden water sources and the most significant rock art sites that are often tucked away in shallow caves or under overhanging cliffs.
The emotional core of the Tassili n’Ajjer Traverse is the rock art. As you walk, you encounter the "Round Head" period paintings—mysterious, ethereal figures that seem to float on the rock walls—and the later "Cattle" period works, which show a sophisticated pastoral society. Seeing these images in their original context, far from any museum, is a transformative experience. It forces a realisation of the Sahara’s dramatic climatic shifts and the resilience of human culture. This is a landscape defined by its absence of modern infrastructure; there are no roads, no permanent buildings, and no mobile signal. It is a pure immersion into the elements of rock, sand, and sky.
The history of Tassili n’Ajjer is the history of North Africa itself. During the Neolithic Subpluvial (the "Green Sahara" period), which lasted from roughly 10,000 to 5,000 years ago, this region was a lush savannah. The plateau was crisscrossed by rivers and dotted with lakes, supporting a diverse range of flora and fauna. The rock art provides a chronological record of this transformation. The earliest engravings, belonging to the Bubalus period, depict large African megafauna like the extinct long-horned buffalo. This was followed by the "Round Head" period, characterised by enigmatic human figures with bulbous heads, often interpreted through various mythological or shamanic lenses. Later, the "Bovidian" or Cattle period shows the arrival of pastoralists, with detailed scenes of herding, hunting, and domestic life. Finally, the "Horse" and "Camel" periods document the increasing aridification of the region and the introduction of new modes of transport and warfare.
The Western world "discovered" the Tassili’s treasures in the early 20th century, but it was the French ethnographer Henri Lhote who brought them to international prominence in the 1950s. While Lhote’s methods were later criticised for damaging some of the paintings (he famously used wet sponges to make the colours pop for photographs), his expeditions mapped thousands of sites and led to the area being declared a National Park in 1972 and a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1982. For the local Tuareg people, specifically the Kel Ajjer confederation, the plateau is more than an archaeological site; it is their ancestral home. Though most Tuareg now live in or around Djanet, their connection to the "mountain" remains strong. They are the custodians of the land, and their presence on the traverse—sharing tea, stories, and traditional bread (taguella) baked in the sand—is as much a part of the history as the ancient paintings themselves.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Tassili n’Ajjer is a land of extremes, and timing your traverse is critical for safety and enjoyment. The trekking season is strictly limited to the cooler months, from October to April.
Winter (December to February): This is the most popular time to visit. Daytime temperatures are pleasant, usually ranging between 15°C and 25°C, making for comfortable walking. However, the nights are bitterly cold. Once the sun sets, temperatures on the plateau can plummet to 0°C or even slightly below freezing. A high-quality down sleeping bag is essential. The air is incredibly dry, and the sky is usually a deep, cloudless blue, providing perfect conditions for photography and stargazing.
Shoulder Seasons (October–November and March–April): These months offer warmer nights, which many trekkers prefer. Daytime temperatures can reach 30°C or 35°C, requiring careful hydration and sun protection. March and April can occasionally bring the "Sirocco" or "Ghibli"—strong, hot winds that carry fine sand and can reduce visibility, making trekking more difficult and uncomfortable.
Summer (May to September): Trekking is not recommended and often not permitted during this time. Temperatures regularly exceed 45°C, and the heat radiating off the sandstone rocks can make the plateau feel like an oven. Water sources dry up, and the risk of heatstroke is extreme. Most tour operators in Djanet cease operations during these months.
Regardless of the season, the Sahara is a place of rapid change. A clear morning can turn into a dusty afternoon, and while rain is incredibly rare, when it does fall, it can cause flash floods in the narrow canyons. Always follow the advice of your Tuareg guides regarding weather conditions.
Day 1: Djanet to Jabbaren
Day 2: Jabbaren to Tamrit
Day 3: Tamrit to Sefar (The Stone City)
Day 4: Sefar to Tin Tazarift
Day 5: Tin Tazarift to Jabbaren (Return Route)
Day 6: Jabbaren to Djanet
Important Notes:
Planning a traverse of the Tassili n’Ajjer is significantly more complex than a standard European or North American hike. You cannot simply turn up and start walking. Algerian law requires all visitors to the Tassili National Park to be accompanied by a licensed local guide. Most trekkers book a full-service package through an agency in Djanet or an international adventure travel company. These packages typically include airport transfers, 4x4 transport to the trailhead, Tuareg guides, a cook, and pack animals (donkeys or camels) to carry water, food, and camping gear.
Physical fitness is essential. While the daily distances are not extreme, the terrain is challenging. You will be walking on soft sand, uneven rock, and navigating steep, loose scree slopes during the ascent and descent. Training should focus on leg strength and endurance, ideally with some experience walking in hot, dry conditions. Mentally, prepare for a total lack of facilities—this is true wilderness trekking.
Djanet is the gateway city. It is a charming oasis with basic amenities, including a few small hotels, a post office, and a vibrant market. Most flights to Djanet arrive from Algiers in the middle of the night, so factor in a day of rest in Djanet before starting the trek to acclimatise and finalise logistics.
There are no huts, lodges, or permanent shelters on the Tassili n’Ajjer plateau. This is a pure wild camping experience.
Bivouac Style:
What is Provided by Agencies:
What is NOT Provided:
Entering the Tassili n’Ajjer National Park requires specific permits and a visa for Algeria, which can be a time-consuming process. It is essential to start your planning at least two to three months in advance.
Algerian Visa: Most nationalities require a visa to enter Algeria. You will typically need an "Invitation to Travel" or a "Certificate of Accommodation" provided by a licensed Algerian travel agency. Check with your local Algerian embassy for the specific requirements, as they can vary significantly by country. Recently, Algeria has introduced a "Visa on Arrival" for tourists visiting the southern regions (like Djanet) via approved agencies, but this must be pre-arranged.
National Park Permits: The Tassili n’Ajjer is a protected National Park and a UNESCO site. Access is strictly controlled. Your local agency will handle the procurement of these permits, the cost of which is usually included in your tour price. You will need to provide a copy of your passport to the agency well in advance. Upon arrival in Djanet, your permits will be verified by the National Park office and the local gendarmerie.
Guide Requirements: It is illegal to enter the Tassili n’Ajjer National Park without a certified local guide. This is both for your safety and for the protection of the archaeological sites. The guides are responsible for ensuring that visitors do not touch or damage the rock art and that all waste is properly managed.
Costs: A full-service 6-day trek typically costs between €600 and €1,200 per person, depending on the size of the group and the level of service. This usually covers everything from arrival in Djanet to departure, excluding international flights and visa fees.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Tassili N Ajjer Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Tassili N Ajjer Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
If you have extra time in the Djanet region, there are several other spectacular sites worth visiting:
Remote Wilderness: The Tassili n’Ajjer is an extremely remote environment. There is no mobile phone coverage, and medical facilities are non-existent once you are on the plateau. Your guides will usually carry a satellite phone for emergencies, but evacuation can be difficult and slow. Ensure you have comprehensive travel insurance that covers emergency medical evacuation from remote areas.
Dehydration and Heat: Even in the cooler months, the Saharan sun is intense. Dehydration can happen quickly. You should aim to drink at least 3–4 litres of water per day. Monitor your urine colour; it should be pale yellow. If it is dark, you are dehydrated. Use rehydration salts if you feel fatigued or have a headache.
Foot Care: Blisters are the most common injury on this trek. The combination of heat, sand, and rocky terrain is a recipe for foot problems. Wear high-quality socks (merino wool is best), use sand gaiters, and treat any "hot spots" immediately with moleskin or blister pads. Do not wait until a blister forms.
Wildlife: While the Sahara may seem empty, it is home to scorpions and vipers. These are rarely seen during the day but can be active at night. Always shake out your boots before putting them on in the morning and avoid sticking your hands into dark crevices in the rocks. Use a headlamp when walking around the camp at night.
Political Stability: While the Djanet region is generally considered safe for tourism, Algeria has had periods of instability. Always check your government’s travel advice before booking. The presence of mandatory guides and the coordination with local authorities provide a significant layer of security for trekkers.
The Great God of Sefar: This is perhaps the most famous rock painting in the entire Sahara. Located in the "Stone City" of Sefar, this massive figure, several metres high, is part of the Round Head period. Its enigmatic appearance, with a large, featureless head and strange appendages, has sparked countless theories, from shamanic visions to ancient astronaut myths. Standing before it in the silence of the plateau is a haunting experience.
The Ancient Cypresses of Tamrit: In the Tamrit valley, you will find the Saharan Cypress (Cupressus dupreziana). These trees are critically endangered, with only a few hundred individuals remaining in the wild. They are incredibly long-lived, with some estimated to be over 2,000 years old. They are a biological link to the time when the Sahara was a Mediterranean-style forest. Seeing these green giants growing out of the dry sandstone is a powerful testament to life’s persistence.
The Tin Tazarift Arches: The erosion on the plateau has created dozens of natural sandstone arches. Some are small and delicate, while others are massive structures that you can walk beneath. They provide excellent photographic opportunities, especially during the "golden hour" of sunrise and sunset when the sandstone glows deep orange and red.
The Guelta of Jabbaren: Depending on the recent rainfall, you may encounter small gueltas—natural rock pools that hold water long after the rains have stopped. These are vital lifelines for the local wildlife and were essential for the prehistoric inhabitants. They often reflect the surrounding rock formations, creating beautiful, mirror-like scenes in the middle of the desert.
The Tassili n’Ajjer is a fragile ecosystem and a priceless archaeological site. The rock art is particularly vulnerable to human impact. As a visitor, you have a moral and legal responsibility to protect this heritage.
Protecting the Rock Art:
Environmental Stewardship:
By following these principles, you ensure that the "Stone Forest" remains a wonder for future generations of explorers and researchers.
