Norway — Oslo
Walk the St. Olav Ways, Norway's iconic 643km pilgrimage route from Oslo to Trondheim. This moderate, 30-day trek follows the historic Gudbrandsdalsleden, tracing the path of medieval pilgrims to Nidaros Cathedral. Traverse diverse Norwegian landscapes, from rolling highlands to dramatic valleys, experiencing a profound cultural and geographical journey.
Distance: 643.0 km
Elevation Gain: 15000 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 30 days
The St. Olav Ways, specifically the Gudbrandsdalsleden, represents the most iconic pilgrimage route in Scandinavia, stretching 643 kilometres from the historic ruins of Oslo to the magnificent Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. This is not merely a long-distance hike; it is a journey through the cultural and geographical spine of Norway. Following the footsteps of medieval pilgrims who travelled to the shrine of Saint Olav, the eternal King of Norway, the trail traverses a staggering variety of landscapes—from the urban sprawl of the capital and the fertile agricultural plains of the south to the rugged, windswept plateaus of the Dovrefjell mountains and the deep, forested valleys of Trøndelag. It is a path that demands physical endurance, offering 15,000 metres of cumulative elevation gain over approximately 30 days of walking, but rewards the traveller with a profound sense of connection to Norwegian history, folklore, and the raw power of the Nordic wilderness.
The St. Olav Ways (Gudbrandsdalsleden) is often referred to as the "Camino of the North," yet it offers a distinctly different experience from its southern counterparts. Where the Camino de Santiago is defined by sun-drenched Spanish plains and bustling social hubs, the St. Olav Way is defined by the quiet majesty of the Norwegian landscape and a deep, introspective solitude. The route is a masterclass in ecological transition. It begins in the Oslofjord region, winding through the historic Gamlebyen (Old Town) before heading north through the lush, rolling hills of Romerike. As the trail progresses, it skirts the eastern shores of Lake Mjøsa, Norway's largest lake, providing vistas of sparkling water and traditional red-painted farmsteads.
The middle section of the journey takes walkers through the Gudbrandsdalen valley, the "King of Valleys," where the cultural heritage of Norway is most palpable. Here, the trail follows ancient roads used by kings and commoners alike for over a millennium. The true physical and spiritual climax of the route occurs as the path ascends onto the Dovrefjell mountain plateau. This is a wild, treeless expanse where the weather can turn in an instant and where the rare musk ox still roams. The final descent through the forests of Trøndelag brings a softening of the landscape, leading eventually to the spires of Nidaros Cathedral, the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world and the traditional burial place of Saint Olav.
Walking the St. Olav Way is an exercise in pacing. While the terrain is rarely technical, the sheer distance requires a disciplined approach to physical care and logistics. The trail is well-marked with the distinctive red "St. Olav's Cross" logo, but the remote nature of certain sections—particularly across Dovrefjell—means that walkers must be self-sufficient and prepared for the unpredictable Norwegian climate. Whether undertaken for spiritual reasons, historical interest, or the simple love of long-distance trekking, the St. Olav Way provides a unique window into the soul of Norway.
The history of the St. Olav Ways is inextricably linked to the life and death of King Olav Haraldsson, who reigned from 1015 to 1028. Olav was a pivotal figure in the Christianisation of Norway, a process he pursued with both religious zeal and political ambition. Following his death at the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030, reports of miracles occurring near his remains began to spread. He was canonised just a year later, and his body was moved to Nidaros (modern-day Trondheim). Almost immediately, Nidaros became one of the four most important pilgrimage destinations in Christendom, alongside Rome, Jerusalem, and Santiago de Compostela.
For nearly 500 years, thousands of pilgrims from across Europe braved the harsh Nordic climate and the dangers of the mountains to seek healing or penance at Olav's shrine. This golden age of pilgrimage came to an abrupt end with the Protestant Reformation in 1537. Pilgrimages were banned, the shrine of St. Olav was destroyed, and the ancient paths were largely reclaimed by the forest or incorporated into modern road networks. The tradition lay dormant for centuries, preserved only in local folklore and the names of landmarks along the route.
The modern revival of the St. Olav Ways began in the late 20th century, culminating in the official reopening of the Gudbrandsdalsleden in 1997 by Crown Prince Haakon. In 2010, the routes were designated as a "Cultural Route of the Council of Europe," recognising their significance to shared European heritage. Today, the trail is a living museum. Walkers pass by medieval stave churches, ancient burial mounds, and historic "Sæter" (mountain summer farms) that have served travellers for generations. The cultural context of the trail is not just found in the destination of Nidaros, but in every kilometre of the ancient road that connects the modern Norwegian state to its medieval roots.
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The window for completing the full 643-kilometre journey is relatively narrow due to Norway's high latitude and mountainous terrain. The official season runs from early June to September. Outside of this period, snow makes the Dovrefjell section impassable for those without advanced winter trekking skills and equipment.
June: This is the month of the "Midnight Sun" (or near-constant daylight in the south). The landscape is at its most vibrant, with wildflowers blooming in the valleys and snow still clinging to the high peaks. However, June can be wet, and the high mountain passes may still have significant snow patches that require careful navigation. Mosquitoes can also be prevalent in the forested sections as the ground thaws.
July: The peak of the Norwegian summer. Temperatures in the valleys can reach a pleasant 20–25°C, though the mountains remain cool. This is the most popular time to walk, and the social atmosphere at the pilgrim hostels is at its height. July 29th is "Olsok" (St. Olav's Day), and arriving in Trondheim for the festivities is a goal for many, though it requires booking accommodation well in advance.
August: Often considered the best month for the trail. The weather is generally more stable, the mosquitoes have diminished, and the berries (blueberries and cloudberries) are ripe for picking along the path. The nights begin to darken, providing a beautiful twilight for evening walks.
September: Autumn arrives early in the mountains. The Dovrefjell plateau turns a spectacular shade of gold and red. While the days are crisp and clear, the risk of early snowfall increases significantly after mid-September. Many pilgrim hostels begin to close for the season during this month, so careful planning is required.
Stage 1: The Lowlands (Oslo to Hamar)
Stage 2: Lake Mjøsa and the Valley Entrance (Hamar to Lillehammer)
Stage 3: The Great Valley (Lillehammer to Otta)
Stage 4: The High Mountains (Otta to Hjerkinn)
Stage 5: The Descent to the Sea (Kongsvold to Trondheim)
Planning a 30-day trek requires significant logistical coordination. The most important document for any walker is the Pilgrim Passport (Pilegrimspass), which provides access to dedicated pilgrim accommodation and entitles the bearer to the Olav Letter (certificate of completion) in Trondheim. Fitness is a major factor; while the trail is not technically difficult, walking 20–30 kilometres daily for a month with a 10–12 kilogram pack is a significant physical undertaking. It is highly recommended to complete several multi-day training hikes with a full pack before attempting the St. Olav Way.
Oslo serves as the primary base for preparation. The Pilgrim Centre in Oslo (located near the trailhead in Gamlebyen) is an essential first stop for maps, advice, and the Pilgrim Passport. Most walkers fly into Oslo Airport (OSL), which has direct train links to the city centre. It is advisable to book your first two nights of accommodation in advance, as well as any stays in popular hubs like Lillehammer or Hamar.
The St. Olav Way offers a unique range of accommodation that reflects the history of the route. These range from simple "pilegrimsherberge" (hostels) to historic farms and modern hotels.
Types of Accommodation:
Facilities Provided: Most pilgrim hostels provide a mattress, pillow, and blanket, but you must use your own sleeping bag liner or sleeping bag. Kitchen facilities are usually available for communal use. Showers are common, though sometimes require a small fee (10–20 NOK). WiFi is available in larger towns but rare in the mountain sections.
What is NOT Provided: Towels, toiletries, and food are rarely provided in the basic hostels. You must be prepared to carry and cook your own meals in many locations.
No formal permits or entry fees are required to walk the St. Olav Ways. Norway's "Allemannsretten" (Right to Roam) allows everyone the right to walk on paths and uncultivated land throughout the country. However, there are specific administrative elements to consider for the pilgrimage experience.
The Pilgrim Passport (Pilegrimspass): While not a legal permit, this document is functionally essential. It costs approximately 50–100 NOK and can be purchased at the Pilgrim Centres in Oslo, Hamar, Dale-Gudbrand, or Dovrefjell. The passport allows you to stay in dedicated pilgrim hostels, which are significantly cheaper than standard hotels. It also serves as a beautiful souvenir, as you collect stamps (stempler) from churches, hostels, and landmarks along the way.
The Olav Letter: To receive the official certificate of completion (the Olav Letter) in Trondheim, you must have walked at least the final 100 kilometres into the city and have the stamps in your passport to prove it. For cyclists, the requirement is the final 200 kilometres.
Dovrefjell National Park Regulations: While no permit is needed to enter the park, there are strict rules regarding the musk oxen. You must maintain a minimum distance of 200 metres from these animals at all times. Failure to do so is not only dangerous but can result in fines from park rangers.
Precisely traced GPX for the St Olav Ways, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The St. Olav Way passes through several of Norway's most significant cultural and natural hubs. Consider these additions to your journey:
Weather Awareness: The primary safety concern on the St. Olav Way is the weather, particularly in the Dovrefjell section. Even in July, temperatures on the plateau can drop to near freezing, and heavy fog can reduce visibility to a few metres. Always check the forecast on yr.no before heading into the mountains. If the forecast predicts high winds or heavy rain on the plateau, consider waiting a day in Dovre or Hjerkinn.
Terrain and Navigation: The trail is generally well-marked with the St. Olav's Cross. However, in the forests of Trøndelag, the path can become extremely muddy and slippery after rain. Trekking poles are highly recommended to prevent ankle injuries. In the mountains, follow the stone cairns and painted markers closely; do not attempt shortcuts across the tundra, as the terrain is more rugged than it appears.
Wildlife: The musk oxen of Dovrefjell are the only significant animal hazard. They are not naturally aggressive but will charge if they feel threatened. If you see a musk ox on the path, give it a wide berth (at least 200 metres). Ticks are present in the lower forested areas and can carry Lyme disease or TBE; check your body daily and remove any ticks immediately.
Emergency Services: The national emergency number in Norway is 112. Mobile coverage is excellent in the valleys but can be spotty on the Dovrefjell plateau. It is advisable to carry a satellite messenger (like a Garmin inReach) if travelling solo in the mountain sections.
The Snøhetta Massif: For fit walkers, a detour to climb Snøhetta (2,286 m) from the Reinheim cabin is a spectacular addition. It is a non-technical but strenuous hike that offers the best views in central Norway.
Stiklestad National Cultural Centre: While the main Gudbrandsdalsleden goes straight to Trondheim, many pilgrims take a train or bus north of the city to visit Stiklestad, the site of the battle where Olav fell. The cultural centre and the medieval farm "Stiklastadir" are essential for understanding the Olav legacy.
The Ruins of Hamar Cathedral: The "Hamardomen" is a stunning architectural feat where the ruins of a medieval stone cathedral are protected by a massive glass and steel structure. The acoustics inside are world-famous.
Norway's wilderness is pristine but fragile. The St. Olav Way passes through several protected national parks and sensitive agricultural land. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is essential for the continued survival of the pilgrimage tradition.
