Scotland — Portree
Traverse Scotland's Isle of Skye on the Skye Trail, a demanding 128km route from Rubha Hunish to Broadford. This unofficial path winds through rugged highlands and dramatic coastal sections, offering remote wilderness and staggering panoramas. Expect 7-8 days of self-reliant walking across varied terrain, including challenging ascents and exposed ridges.
Distance: 128.0 km
Elevation Gain: 7600 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 7-8 days
The Skye Trail is an unofficial, long-distance route that traverses the length of the Isle of Skye, stretching approximately 128 kilometres from the northernmost tip at Rubha Hunish to the southern village of Broadford. Unlike Scotland's more established Great Trails, the Skye Trail is not waymarked, demanding a high level of self-reliance, navigational proficiency, and physical endurance. It is a route of staggering contrasts, taking walkers from the dizzying heights of the Trotternish Ridge—a massive geological landslip of basalt cliffs and pinnacles—to the hauntingly beautiful ruins of cleared villages along the coast. This is a journey through a landscape shaped by volcanic fire, glacial ice, and a complex human history of resilience and displacement. To walk the Skye Trail is to immerse oneself in the raw, unpredictable elements of the Scottish Highlands, where the Atlantic weather dictates the pace and the scenery shifts from emerald-green glens to obsidian-black mountain massifs within a single afternoon.
The Skye Trail is widely regarded as one of the most spectacular and demanding walks in the United Kingdom. It was first popularised by outdoor writer Cameron McNeish and has since become a bucket-list challenge for experienced trekkers. The trail does not follow a single, continuous path; instead, it links existing footpaths, sheep tracks, and cross-country sections to create a cohesive traverse of the island. Because it lacks official status, there are no signposts or trail markers. Walkers must be adept at reading Ordnance Survey maps and using a compass, particularly when the infamous Skye mist (the "smirr") descends, reducing visibility to a few metres.
The route is traditionally divided into seven or eight stages. The northern sections are dominated by the Trotternish Peninsula, home to the Quiraing and the Old Man of Storr. This area features some of the most photographed landscapes in Scotland, characterised by bizarre rock formations and sheer cliffs that drop into the Minch. As the trail moves south, it passes through the island's capital, Portree, before heading into the heart of the Cuillin mountains. While the trail avoids the technical scrambling of the Black Cuillin ridge, it skirts the base of these formidable peaks, offering breathtaking views of Sgùrr nan Gillean and Bla Bheinn. The final sections follow the coastline of the Strathaird Peninsula, passing through abandoned settlements that serve as a poignant reminder of the Highland Clearances.
Terrain on the Skye Trail is notoriously varied. Walkers will encounter everything from well-maintained gravel paths and quiet tarmac roads to pathless peat bogs, steep scree slopes, and narrow cliff-edge trails. The "coastal sections" referred to in this guide highlight the trail's unique relationship with the sea. For much of the journey, the Atlantic Ocean is a constant companion, providing a dramatic backdrop of crashing waves, hidden sea caves, and the distant silhouettes of the Outer Hebrides and the Small Isles. The weather is the defining factor of any Skye expedition; the island is famous for experiencing "four seasons in one day," and even in mid-summer, walkers must be prepared for gale-force winds and torrential rain.
The Isle of Skye, or *An t-Eilean Sgitheanach* in Scottish Gaelic, is a land where history is etched into the very stones. The Skye Trail passes through layers of time, from the prehistoric remains of Iron Age duns (forts) to the 19th-century ruins of crofting communities. The island's name likely derives from the Old Norse *Skuy-öy* (Cloud Island), a testament to the Viking influence that dominated the Hebrides for centuries. The Norse-Gaelic culture left a lasting legacy in the island's place names and the ancestral lineages of the powerful clans, most notably the MacLeods and the MacDonalds, whose centuries-long feuds are the stuff of local legend.
One of the most significant and somber aspects of the trail's history is the Highland Clearances (*Fuadach nan Gàidheal*). During the 18th and 19th centuries, thousands of Gaelic-speaking crofters were forcibly evicted from their ancestral lands to make way for large-scale sheep farming. The Skye Trail leads walkers directly through the remains of these "cleared" villages, such as Boreraig and Suisnish on the Strathaird Peninsula. Standing among the roofless stone shells of former homes, overlooking the sea, provides a powerful and moving connection to the people who once lived here. The trail is as much a cultural pilgrimage as it is a physical challenge, offering a window into a way of life that was irrevocably altered by economic and social upheaval.
Geologically, Skye is a masterpiece of natural history. The Trotternish Ridge was formed by a series of massive landslips, where the weight of heavy basaltic lava flows caused the underlying sedimentary rocks to collapse. This created the surreal landscape of the Quiraing and the Storr. Further south, the Cuillin mountains represent the remains of a massive volcanic centre that was active approximately 60 million years ago. The Black Cuillin is composed of gabbro, a rough volcanic rock that provides excellent grip for climbers, while the Red Cuillin is made of granite, giving the hills a smoother, more rounded appearance. Understanding this geological backdrop enhances the experience of the trail, as every climb and descent reveals a different chapter of the Earth's formation.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for walking the Skye Trail is relatively narrow, dictated by the volatile North Atlantic climate. While the trail is technically open year-round, the conditions between October and March are generally unsuitable for anyone but highly experienced winter mountaineers. During these months, daylight is scarce, temperatures frequently drop below freezing, and the mountains are often covered in snow and ice.
Spring (April to May): Many experienced walkers consider this the best time to tackle the Skye Trail. The weather is often drier than in mid-summer, and the clarity of the air provides exceptional views. The hills begin to turn green, and the absence of the infamous Scottish midge makes camping much more pleasant. However, spring can still bring "winter" conditions to the high ridges, and walkers should be prepared for cold nights and occasional snow showers.
Summer (June to August): This is the peak season for the trail. The days are incredibly long—in late June, it barely gets dark at all—allowing for flexible walking schedules. The wildflowers are in full bloom, and the coastal sections are teeming with birdlife. The major drawback of summer is the midge (*Culicoides impunctatus*). These tiny biting insects can be relentless on calm, damp days, making wild camping a challenge. Summer also brings the highest rainfall, often in the form of heavy Atlantic depressions.
Autumn (September): September offers a beautiful transition as the heather turns purple and the grasses take on a golden hue. The midge population begins to decline with the first frosts, and the tourist crowds in Portree start to thin out. The weather becomes more unpredictable, with a higher frequency of autumn gales, but the light for photography is often at its most dramatic during this month.
Weather Reality: Regardless of the season, you must respect the Skye weather. Rainfall on the island can exceed 2,000 mm annually in the mountains. Wind speeds on the Trotternish Ridge can easily reach 80–100 km/h during storms, making the high-level sections dangerous. Always check the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) forecast specifically for the Northwest Highlands before setting out each day.
Day 1: Duntulm to Flodigarry
Day 2: Flodigarry to The Quiraing (Trotternish Ridge North)
Day 3: The Quiraing to The Storr (Trotternish Ridge South)
Day 4: The Storr to Portree
Day 5: Portree to Sligachan
Day 6: Sligachan to Elgol
Day 7: Elgol to Broadford
Important Notes:
The Skye Trail is a serious undertaking that requires careful logistical planning. Because it is not an official trail, there is no central booking office or "trail pass." Your primary preparation should focus on navigation and fitness. You should be comfortable walking 20–25 kilometres a day with a full pack (12–15 kg) over rough, pathless terrain. Portree is the main hub for the island and serves as the best base for pre-trail organisation. It has a large supermarket (Co-op), outdoor shops for gas canisters and waterproofs, and a variety of accommodation.
Transport to the start at Duntulm requires taking a bus from Portree. Check the Stagecoach Highlands website for the latest timetables, as services to the far north of the island are limited, especially on Sundays. If you are driving, it is best to leave your car in Broadford or Portree and use the bus to reach the trailhead. Inverness is the nearest major city with an airport and train station, with regular bus links to Skye via the Skye Bridge.
Accommodation on the Skye Trail is a mix of wild camping, bothies, and village-based B&Bs or hostels. There are no dedicated campsites along the Trotternish Ridge or in the remote glens, so self-sufficiency is key.
Bothies: There are two main mountain bothies on the route: The Lookout (Rubha Hunish) and Camasunary (near Elgol). Bothies are basic stone shelters maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA). They are free to use but offer no facilities—no beds, no heating, and no toilets. You must bring your own sleeping mat and bag. They operate on a first-come, first-served basis and can be very busy in summer. Always have a tent as a backup.
Wild Camping: Under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, wild camping is legal on most unenclosed land, provided it is done responsibly. This is the most flexible way to experience the trail. Ideal spots include the plateaus of the Trotternish Ridge (if the wind is low) and the coastal flats near Camasunary. Ensure you are at least 100 metres away from roads and buildings.
Villages: Portree, Sligachan, Elgol, and Broadford offer various accommodation options. - Portree: Numerous hostels, B&Bs, and hotels. Booking months in advance is essential for summer. - Sligachan: The Sligachan Hotel and an adjacent bunkhouse and campsite. - Elgol: Limited B&Bs and a small shop; very remote. - Broadford: Hostels, campsites, and B&Bs.
One of the greatest joys of hiking in Scotland is the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, which established a statutory right of responsible access to most land and water. This means that no permits, fees, or registrations are required to walk the Skye Trail or to wild camp along its route. You do not need to book "slots" or notify any authorities of your plans, though leaving your itinerary with a contact person is a standard safety practice.
The Scottish Outdoor Access Code: While access is free, it is contingent upon "responsible" behaviour. This is governed by three main principles: - Respect the interests of other people (farmers, residents, and other trail users). - Care for the environment (leave no trace, protect wildlife). - Take responsibility for your own actions (be self-sufficient and safe).
Access Restrictions: There are very few restrictions, but walkers should be aware of the deer stalking season (traditionally July to late October). While the Skye Trail mostly follows established routes where stalking is less of an issue than in the deep Highlands, it is always polite to check the "Heading for the Scottish Hills" website if you plan to venture far off the main trail during the autumn months. Additionally, during the lambing season (April–May), it is vital to keep dogs on a short lead and avoid crossing fields with young lambs.
Bothy Etiquette: If using the MBA bothies, you must follow the Bothy Code: only use the bothy for short stays, leave it cleaner than you found it, and ensure all fires are fully extinguished. Bothies cannot be booked; if a bothy is full, you are expected to use your tent.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Skye Trail Coastal (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Skye Trail Coastal, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
If you have extra days on the island or need a break from the trail, Skye offers world-class attractions:
Pre-Departure Checks: The Skye Trail is a remote mountain route. Before you start, you must: - Check the MWIS (Mountain Weather Information Service) forecast for the Northwest Highlands. - Ensure your navigation skills are sharp; "following the person in front" is not a strategy on Skye. - Check for any local alerts regarding bridge closures or path erosion on the Walkhighlands website. - Verify bus times if you are relying on them for escape routes.
Navigation and Visibility: The greatest danger on the Skye Trail is the weather-induced loss of visibility. The Trotternish Ridge is a high, featureless plateau in places, and it is remarkably easy to walk off the edge of a cliff in thick mist. You must be able to use a map and compass to take bearings and follow them accurately. Do not rely solely on a smartphone; batteries fail in the cold, and touchscreens are difficult to use in heavy rain.
Terrain Hazards: - Cliff Edges: Much of the trail follows high escarpments. In high winds, stay well back from the edge, as gusts can be unpredictable. - Bogs: Skye is famous for its "peat hags" and bogs. These can be waist-deep in places. Always test the ground with a trekking pole if it looks suspiciously bright green or watery. - The Bad Step: This is a specific obstacle on the coastal path between Camasunary and Elgol. It is a crack in a sloping rock face over the sea. While not difficult for experienced scramblers, it can be terrifying for those with heavy packs or in wet conditions. There is a high-level bypass over the hill of Am Màm. - River Crossings: After heavy rain, small streams can turn into raging torrents. If a crossing looks dangerous, wait for the water to subside (often only takes a few hours) or find a wider, shallower point upstream.
Hypothermia: Even in summer, the combination of wind, rain, and exhaustion can lead to hypothermia. Carry high-energy snacks and ensure your waterproofs are effective. If you or a companion start shivering uncontrollably or become confused, stop immediately, find shelter, and get into dry clothes and a sleeping bag.
Emergency Services: In an emergency, dial 999 or 112 and ask for "Police" and then "Mountain Rescue." Note that mobile signal is non-existent in many of the glens and on the northern coast.
Rubha Hunish and the Lookout: At the very start of the trail, don't just rush south. Spend time exploring the headland of Rubha Hunish. The Lookout bothy offers one of the best vantage points in Scotland for whale watching. Minke whales, porpoises, and even orcas are occasionally spotted in the deep waters of the Minch. The descent to the lower "shelf" of the headland is steep but rewards you with a feeling of being at the edge of the world.
The Quiraing "Table": While the trail follows the high ridge above the Quiraing, a short detour into the "labyrinth" below is highly recommended. The Table is a flat, sunken grassy plateau hidden among the pinnacles. Legend has it that locals used to hide cattle here during Viking raids. It is a surreal, quiet spot away from the main tourist path.
Loch Coruisk: When you reach Camasunary (Day 6), you are only a few kilometres from Loch Coruisk, often cited as the most magnificent loch in Scotland. It is a freshwater loch completely encircled by the jagged peaks of the Black Cuillin. You can visit it as a side trip from Camasunary before continuing to Elgol. The scale of the rock walls rising directly from the water is truly humbling.
The Cleared Villages of Boreraig and Suisnish: On the final day, the trail passes through these two abandoned settlements. Take the time to wander among the ruins. Boreraig was once a thriving community of over 100 people before they were evicted in 1853. The pathos of the site, with its beautiful views of the sea contrasted with the evidence of forced removal, is a highlight of the trail's cultural journey.
The Isle of Skye is experiencing unprecedented levels of tourism, and the fragile Highland ecosystem is under significant pressure. As a walker on the Skye Trail, you have a moral obligation to minimise your impact. The "wild" feel of the trail is its greatest asset; help preserve it for those who follow.
Core Principles for Skye: - Waste Management: There are no bins on the trail. You must pack out every single piece of litter, including fruit peels and nut shells, which take years to decompose in the cold climate. - Human Waste: If you need to go, do so at least 30 metres from water sources and 100 metres from the trail or bothies. Dig a hole 15 cm deep and bury your waste. Pack out all toilet paper and sanitary products in a sealed bag. - Fire Safety: Never light open fires on the peat. Peat is highly flammable and can burn underground for weeks, causing devastating wildfires. Use a camping stove for all cooking. - Campsite Selection: Avoid camping on fragile machair (coastal wildflower grasslands) or in the middle of archaeological ruins. Use "stealth" camping techniques—arrive late, leave early, and leave no trace that you were ever there. - Wildlife: Skye is home to golden eagles and white-tailed sea eagles. If you see large birds of prey, keep your distance and do not disturb nesting sites. Keep dogs under control at all times to protect livestock and ground-nesting birds.
By following these guidelines, you ensure that the Skye Trail remains a pristine wilderness experience rather than a degraded tourist track.
