Chile — Coyhaique
Chile's Sierra Baguales Trek: a 55km, 4-5 day expedition through a rugged, prehistoric Patagonian wilderness. This demanding route traverses jagged basalt spires and vast fossil beds in the remote Aysén Region, offering unparalleled views far from crowded paths. Expect challenging ascents and descents across scree slopes and exposed ridges, revealing a pristine, isolated landscape.
Distance: 55.0 km
Elevation Gain: 2500 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 4-5 days
The Sierra Baguales Trek is one of Chile’s best-kept secrets—a 55-kilometre journey through a landscape that feels more like a prehistoric world than a modern hiking trail. Located in the remote reaches of the Aysén Region, far from the crowded paths of Torres del Paine, this challenging multi-day walk traverses a jagged mountain range defined by basalt spires, vast fossil beds, and the raw, unyielding power of the Patagonian elements. Rising from the windswept steppe near the border with Argentina, the Sierra Baguales (meaning "Wild Horses" or "Feral Cattle") offers a profound sense of isolation that is increasingly rare in global trekking. This is not a manicured trail; it is a route through a wilderness where the paths are often made by guanacos rather than humans, and where the geological history of the Earth is laid bare in the form of ancient marine fossils resting 2,000 metres above sea level.
The Sierra Baguales is a geological anomaly in a region dominated by the ice fields and granite towers of the Southern Andes. While much of Patagonia is defined by glacial erosion and lush temperate rainforests, the Baguales range presents a starker, more arid beauty. The landscape is characterised by dark, volcanic basalt formations that rise like gothic cathedrals from the golden grasses of the pampa. These "spires" are the result of intense volcanic activity followed by millions of years of erosion, creating a skyline that is both intimidating and mesmerising. For the trekker, this means a journey through a vertical world of scree slopes, high alpine plateaus, and hidden valleys where the only sound is the whistling of the "Roaring Forties" winds.
What sets the Sierra Baguales apart from other Patagonian treks is its incredible fossil record. As you ascend the ridges, the ground beneath your boots changes from volcanic ash to sedimentary rock filled with the remains of ancient sea life. It is a surreal experience to find perfectly preserved ammonites and leaf impressions at altitudes where only the Andean condor flies. This transition from the steppe to the high peaks provides a masterclass in ecological diversity; you will begin in the habitat of the rhea (a flightless bird similar to an ostrich) and the guanaco, before climbing into the realm of the mountain viscacha and the elusive puma.
The trek is physically demanding, not just because of the 2,500 metres of elevation gain, but because of the terrain itself. There are no formal "tracks" in the traditional sense; instead, hikers follow a series of waypoints, animal paths, and riverbeds. This requires a high degree of self-sufficiency and confidence in off-trail navigation. The reward for this effort is a level of solitude that is unparalleled. It is entirely possible to spend five days in the Sierra Baguales without seeing another human being, making it the ultimate destination for those seeking a true wilderness experience in the heart of Chilean Patagonia.
The name "Baguales" carries a deep cultural resonance in Patagonia. It refers to the feral livestock—horses and cattle—that escaped from early colonial settlements and reverted to a wild state in the remote mountain valleys. For the "gauchos" (Patagonian cowboys) of the 19th and 20th centuries, the Sierra Baguales was a legendary and dangerous place, a frontier where they would hunt these wild animals in a test of skill and endurance. This rugged history of the "bagualero" is still celebrated in the local culture of the Aysén and Magallanes regions, and the spirit of the wild horse remains a symbol of the untameable nature of this landscape.
Long before the arrival of European settlers and their livestock, the region was the ancestral home of the Tehuelche people (also known as the Aonikenk). These nomadic hunter-gatherers moved across the Patagonian steppe following the seasonal migrations of the guanaco. While the high, craggy peaks of the Sierra Baguales were likely not permanent residences, the surrounding valleys provided essential hunting grounds and transit routes. The Tehuelche were known for their incredible physical stature and their ability to thrive in one of the harshest climates on Earth, leaving behind a legacy of resilience that still haunts the windswept plains.
In the late 19th century, the landscape began to change with the introduction of large-scale sheep farming. Massive "estancias" (ranches) were established, often backed by British capital, which transformed the social and ecological fabric of Patagonia. The Sierra Baguales became part of these vast private holdings, used primarily for summer grazing. Today, much of the trek still passes through or near these historic estancias, and hikers must often coordinate with local landowners to gain access. This intersection of indigenous heritage, gaucho folklore, and the era of the great sheep barons provides a rich historical backdrop to the natural wonders of the trek.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for trekking in the Sierra Baguales is narrow, dictated by the extreme weather of the Southern Hemisphere. The primary season runs from November to April, coinciding with the Patagonian summer. During this time, the days are long—with daylight lasting until 10:00 PM in December—and the temperatures are generally mild, ranging from 5°C at night to 20°C during the day. However, "mild" is a relative term in Patagonia; the weather is notoriously unpredictable and can shift from bright sunshine to a snowstorm within an hour, even in mid-summer.
The defining feature of the Baguales weather is the wind. The range sits directly in the path of the prevailing westerlies, which gain speed as they cross the Pacific and the Southern Ice Fields. In the Sierra Baguales, these winds are funnelled through mountain passes, often reaching speeds of over 100 kilometres per hour. This wind is not just a nuisance; it is a primary safety consideration that can make walking impossible and pitching a tent a significant challenge. Hikers must be prepared for the physical and mental toll of constant, high-velocity wind.
Spring (November and early December) is a time of spectacular floral displays, as the hardy plants of the steppe and alpine tundra burst into bloom. This is also the best time to see young guanacos and rheas. However, river levels can be high due to snowmelt, making crossings more difficult. Autumn (late March and April) offers more stable weather and the stunning transformation of the "Lenga" and "Ñire" (Southern Beech) forests into vibrant shades of red and orange. The nights become significantly colder during this period, and the risk of early season snow increases, but the lack of wind compared to mid-summer can make for more pleasant walking conditions.
Winter (May to October) is strictly for expert mountaineers. The range is covered in deep snow, the estancias are often closed, and the access roads become impassable. The extreme cold and short daylight hours make trekking a survival exercise rather than a recreational activity.
Day 1: Estancia Entrance to Rio Baguales Valley
Day 2: Rio Baguales to The Cathedral Spires
Day 3: The Fossil Ridge and High Passes
Day 4: Western Valleys to the High Plateau
Day 5: Valley Exit to Trailhead
Important Notes:
The Sierra Baguales is not a trek for beginners. It requires a high level of physical fitness, experience in off-trail navigation, and the ability to be completely self-sufficient for five days. Preparation begins in Coyhaique, the regional capital. This is where you must purchase all your supplies, as there are no shops near the trailhead. You will need to rent a 4x4 vehicle, as the access roads are gravel (ripio) and can be in poor condition, especially after rain. Coordination with local estancias is often necessary, as the most common access points are on private land. It is highly recommended to hire a local guide if you are not confident in your navigation skills or your ability to handle Patagonian weather extremes.
This is a wilderness trek with no formal accommodation. There are no huts, lodges, or established campsites along the route. Hikers must be prepared for wild camping every night.
Camping Requirements:
Unlike the national parks in Chile (such as Torres del Paine or Cerro Castillo), the Sierra Baguales does not currently have a formal permit system managed by CONAF (Corporación Nacional Forestal). However, this does not mean access is unrestricted. Much of the range is located on private estancia land, and respecting private property is the most critical aspect of planning this trek.
Access Protocols:
Border Considerations: Because the Sierra Baguales is located very close to the international border with Argentina, it is wise to carry your passport and PDI (immigration) card at all times. While you are unlikely to encounter border patrols in the high mountains, being near the frontier requires adherence to national laws regarding border zones.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Sierra Baguales Trek (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Sierra Baguales Trek, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Aysén Region is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts. Consider these additions to your itinerary:
Navigation and Isolation: The Sierra Baguales is a true wilderness. There are no trail markers, no rangers, and no emergency services. You must be proficient in using a map and compass, and a GPS is highly recommended. If you get lost or injured, rescue could be days away. Always travel with a partner and carry a satellite communication device.
Wind Hazards: The wind in this region is a serious safety threat. It can blow a person off their feet, especially on exposed ridges or passes. When the wind reaches extreme levels, it is often safer to stay in your tent or find a sheltered spot and wait it out. Be aware of "flying rocks" in very high winds on scree slopes.
River Crossings: You will need to cross several rivers and streams. These can be dangerous during periods of heavy rain or rapid snowmelt. Always unclip your backpack's waist belt before crossing, use trekking poles for stability, and cross at the widest, shallowest point. If a river looks too deep or fast, wait until the following morning when water levels are typically lower.
Hypothermia: Even in summer, the combination of wind, rain, and cold temperatures creates a high risk of hypothermia. Always keep a set of dry clothes in a waterproof dry bag inside your pack. Recognise the early signs of hypothermia (shivering, confusion, loss of dexterity) and take immediate action to get dry and warm.
Wildlife: While pumas are present in the area, they are extremely shy and rarely seen. The greater risk comes from livestock or wild horses if they feel cornered. Give all animals a wide berth. Guanacos can be territorial during the mating season, so avoid getting between a male and his herd.
The Fossil Beds: Located on the high ridges between the Rio Baguales and the western valleys, these beds contain a wealth of marine fossils from the Miocene epoch. You can find ammonites, bivalves, and even fossilised shark teeth. It is a powerful reminder that this entire mountain range was once at the bottom of the sea. Please take only photos; removing fossils is illegal and deprives future trekkers of the experience.
The Basalt Spires: The central part of the range features several dramatic basalt towers, the most famous being "The Cathedral." While climbing these requires technical skills and equipment, hiking to their base provides an incredible perspective on the volcanic forces that shaped Patagonia. The play of light on the dark rock at sunrise and sunset is a photographer's dream.
Guanaco Migration Routes: In certain valleys, you can find well-worn paths used by generations of guanacos. Following these "animal highways" is often the easiest way to navigate through dense scrub or over difficult passes. These areas are also the best places to spot condors, which scavenge on the remains of animals that didn't survive the winter.
Hidden Alpine Tarns: The western side of the Sierra Baguales hides several small, crystal-clear lakes fed by permanent snowfields. These tarns offer beautiful camping spots and a chance to see the unique alpine flora of the region, including the hardy "Llareta" (cushion plants) that can live for over 3,000 years.
The Sierra Baguales is a pristine and fragile ecosystem. Because it sees so few visitors, it is even more important that those who do trek here leave no evidence of their passage. The high-altitude tundra and steppe environments take decades to recover from human impact.
Leave No Trace Principles for Patagonia:
