Japan — Tokushima
Walk Japan's Shikoku Henro, a 1200km spiritual route linking 88 ancient temples across the island. This moderate, 45-60 day pilgrimage offers a profound test of endurance and self-discovery, winding through diverse landscapes from coastal stretches to serene valleys. Experience a historic walk through Japan's heartland.
Distance: 1200.0 km
Elevation Gain: 24000 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 45-60 days
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage (Shikoku Henro) is one of Japan's most significant and ancient spiritual journeys. This sacred route circumnavigates the island of Shikoku, visiting 88 Buddhist temples associated with the revered monk Kūkai (posthumously known as Kōbō Daishi). Spanning approximately 1,200 kilometres, the pilgrimage is a profound test of endurance, faith, and self-discovery. Walkers, known as 'o-henro-san', follow a path that winds through diverse landscapes—from bustling coastal towns and serene rice paddies to mist-shrouded mountains and ancient forests. Each temple marks a step in a spiritual progression, offering moments of reflection, connection, and personal growth. The journey is undertaken by people of all ages and backgrounds, seeking spiritual enlightenment, personal challenge, or simply a deeper connection with Japan's rich cultural heritage.
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is far more than just a long-distance walk; it is a deeply spiritual and culturally immersive experience. The route is not a single, clearly marked trail in the Western sense but rather a network of roads, paths, and sometimes rough tracks connecting the 88 principal temples (and numerous smaller ones). The journey is structured around the life and teachings of Kōbō Daishi, with each temple representing a stage in his spiritual journey. The pilgrimage is traditionally undertaken on foot, a practice that allows for a profound connection with the land and its people. However, many modern pilgrims combine walking with bus or train travel to cover the vast distances.
The landscapes encountered are as varied as the spiritual experiences. The eastern coast of Shikoku offers gentle seaside paths and bustling port towns. As the pilgrimage moves inland, it ascends into the mountainous interior, traversing dense forests, crossing high passes, and passing through remote villages where time seems to stand still. The western and southern parts of the island feature rolling hills, agricultural plains, and a more rugged coastline. The physical demands are significant, with daily distances often ranging from 15 to 30 kilometres, and the terrain can be steep and challenging, especially in the mountainous regions.
Beyond the physical challenge, the pilgrimage is a journey of the spirit. The act of walking from temple to temple, chanting sutras, and receiving 'osettai' (gifts of food, drink, or money from locals and fellow pilgrims) fosters a sense of community and interconnectedness. The 'o-henro-san' are welcomed with warmth and generosity, embodying the spirit of hospitality that is central to Japanese culture. The pilgrimage is a path to purification, wisdom, and enlightenment, offering a unique opportunity to disconnect from the stresses of modern life and reconnect with oneself and the spiritual world.
The origins of the Shikoku Henro are deeply intertwined with the life of Kūkai (774–835 AD), a Buddhist monk, scholar, and artist who founded the Shingon school of Buddhism. Kūkai, posthumously known as Kōbō Daishi, is one of the most revered figures in Japanese Buddhism. Legend states that he travelled to China to study esoteric Buddhism and returned to Japan with new teachings and practices. He established his headquarters at Mount Kōya in Wakayama Prefecture, but his spiritual connection to Shikoku is profound. It is believed that he travelled extensively throughout the island, meditating and practising asceticism, and that the 88 temples are sites where he attained enlightenment or performed miracles.
The pilgrimage as a structured route began to take shape during the Kamakura period (1185–1333 AD) and became more formalized during the Edo period (1603–1868 AD). Initially, it was primarily undertaken by monks and devout followers. However, over centuries, it evolved to include people from all walks of life. The concept of the pilgrimage as a symbolic journey through life and death, with each temple representing a stage of spiritual development, became central to its meaning.
The practice of 'osettai' (donations or gifts) is a crucial element of the pilgrimage's history and culture. Locals and fellow pilgrims often offer food, drinks, money, or a place to stay to those on the journey, seeing it as a way to accumulate merit and support the spiritual quest. This tradition fosters a unique bond between pilgrims and the communities they pass through.
The pilgrimage route itself has evolved over time. While Kōbō Daishi is said to have walked the entire island, the specific paths and temple order were not rigidly defined until much later. The current route is a composite of various historical paths, with some variations and alternative routes existing. The designation of the 88 temples as the core of the pilgrimage is widely attributed to the monk Tōken in the 17th century, who is said to have visited all 88 temples and established the order and significance of each.
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is best undertaken during the spring and autumn months, offering the most pleasant weather conditions for walking.
Spring (March–May): This is a popular time for pilgrims. The weather is generally mild and pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 10°C to 20°C. Cherry blossoms bloom in early spring, adding a spectacular visual element to the journey, particularly in the lower elevations. However, spring can also bring unpredictable weather, including occasional rain showers and cooler temperatures at higher altitudes. The latter part of spring can see an increase in humidity and the emergence of insects.
Summer (June–August): Summer in Shikoku is hot and humid, with average temperatures often exceeding 30°C and high humidity levels. This period is generally not recommended for walking the entire pilgrimage due to the risk of heatstroke and exhaustion. Typhoons are also common during the summer months, which can cause significant disruptions and safety hazards.
Autumn (September–November): This is another ideal season for the pilgrimage. The weather is typically dry and crisp, with comfortable temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. The autumn foliage, particularly in the mountainous regions, is stunning, offering vibrant colours that enhance the spiritual atmosphere. The risk of typhoons decreases significantly after September. This season is highly recommended for its stable weather and beautiful scenery.
Winter (December–February): Winter in Shikoku can be cold, especially in the mountainous interior, with temperatures often dropping below freezing. Snowfall is common at higher elevations, which can make some sections of the route impassable or hazardous. While fewer pilgrims undertake the journey in winter, it offers a unique experience of solitude and quiet reflection for those prepared for the cold and potential snow. Basic facilities at some temples and accommodations may be reduced during this period.
This is a sample itinerary for a walking pilgrimage. Actual duration can vary significantly based on individual pace, rest days, and chosen modes of transport for certain sections.
Days 1-7: Tokushima Prefecture (Temples 1-15)
Days 8-15: Kōchi Prefecture (Temples 16-36)
Days 16-28: Ehime Prefecture (Temples 37-60)
Days 29-45: Kagawa Prefecture (Temples 61-88)
Important Considerations:
Embarking on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage requires meticulous planning, especially regarding timing, logistics, and physical conditioning. The pilgrimage is a significant undertaking, and preparation is key to a safe and rewarding experience. Consider the following:
Accommodation options for pilgrims vary widely, catering to different budgets and preferences. The most traditional and spiritually enriching option is temple lodging.
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage does not require formal permits in the same way as some national park trails. The route largely follows public roads, paths, and trails that are open to the general public. However, there are specific considerations:
Temple Entry: While walking the pilgrimage, you will be visiting Buddhist temples. Entry to the temple grounds is generally free, but there may be fees for entering specific temple buildings, museums, or gardens. It is customary to make a small offering (osaisen) at the main hall of each temple.
Accommodation: If you plan to stay in temple lodging (shukubo), advance booking is essential. This is not a permit but a reservation system. Contact temples directly or use online booking platforms where available.
National Parks: Some sections of the pilgrimage may pass through national parks. While no specific permits are usually required for walking through these areas, it is important to adhere to park regulations regarding camping, waste disposal, and environmental protection.
Special Events: If your pilgrimage coincides with major festivals or events at specific temples, you may need to be aware of increased crowds or potential temporary access restrictions. Information about such events is usually available on temple websites or local tourism boards.
Respectful Conduct: The most important 'requirement' is to conduct yourself with respect and humility. Dress modestly when visiting temples, maintain a quiet demeanour, and follow the customs and etiquette of Buddhist sites. This includes removing shoes before entering buildings and refraining from loud conversations or disruptive behaviour.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
While the pilgrimage is the primary focus, Shikoku offers a wealth of other experiences:
Pre-Departure Checks:
On the Trail:
Emergency Contacts: Know the emergency numbers in Japan (110 for police, 119 for fire and ambulance). Have contact details for your embassy or consulate readily available.
Beyond the 88 temples, Shikoku offers numerous points of interest and potential side trips that can enrich the pilgrimage experience:
Mount Tsurugi (Tokushima/Kōchi Prefectures): As the highest peak on Shikoku (1,955 m), Mount Tsurugi offers breathtaking panoramic views and a different kind of spiritual experience in its alpine environment. While not a mandatory temple stop, it can be accessed via hiking trails and is a popular destination for nature lovers. The journey to the summit can be a rewarding detour for those seeking a more challenging natural encounter.
Dōgo Onsen (Ehime Prefecture): Located in Matsuyama, Dōgo Onsen is one of Japan's most celebrated hot spring resorts. The historic Dōgo Onsen Honkan building, with its distinctive architecture, is a must-visit. Experiencing a traditional onsen bath is a deeply relaxing and culturally significant activity, offering a perfect respite for weary pilgrims.
Naoshima Art Island (Kagawa Prefecture): A short ferry ride from Takamatsu, Naoshima is a unique destination that blends contemporary art with island life. It features world-class museums like the Chichu Art Museum and the Benesse House Museum, as well as numerous outdoor art installations. It offers a stark contrast to the traditional spiritual journey and can be a stimulating cultural interlude.
Uchiko Town (Ehime Prefecture): This beautifully preserved historic town offers a glimpse into Japan's past. Its Yokaichi district features traditional merchant houses, some of which are open to the public, showcasing the town's prosperous past in the wax and paper industries. The Uchiko-za Theatre is a beautifully restored Kabuki theatre.
Local Food Experiences: Each prefecture on Shikoku has its culinary specialities. In Kagawa, seek out Sanuki Udon. Tokushima is known for its Sudachi citrus and Awa Odori dance. Kōchi offers fresh seafood and its famous Katsuo no Tataki (seared bonito). Ehime is famous for its Iyokan citrus and Matsuyama sushi. Exploring these local flavours is an integral part of the Shikoku experience.
Shikoku Mura (Kagawa Prefecture): An open-air architectural museum near Takamatsu, showcasing traditional buildings from Shikoku and its surrounding islands. It provides an excellent overview of regional vernacular architecture and rural life.
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage traverses diverse environments, from urban areas to remote mountains, and it is crucial for pilgrims to practice Leave No Trace principles to preserve the natural beauty and cultural integrity of the island.
Plan Ahead and Prepare: Understand the route, weather conditions, and local customs. Pack appropriately to minimise waste and avoid needing to purchase single-use items. Research accommodation options and book in advance where necessary.
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: Stick to established paths and roads. Avoid walking through sensitive vegetation, especially in mountainous or natural areas. When resting, choose durable surfaces like rocks or established clearings.
Dispose of Waste Properly: Pack out everything you pack in. This includes all food scraps, wrappers, and any other litter. Use designated waste bins where available, but be prepared to carry your rubbish until you find one. Use temple toilets or public facilities when available; do not defecate in natural areas.
Leave What You Find: Do not pick flowers, disturb wildlife, or remove natural or cultural objects. The beauty of the pilgrimage lies in experiencing the environment as it is.
Minimise Campfire Impacts: Campfires are generally not permitted or advisable on the pilgrimage route, especially given the prevalence of wooden structures at temples and in rural areas. Use a portable stove if cooking.
Respect Wildlife: Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not feed animals, as this can disrupt their natural behaviour and diet, and can lead to dependency or aggression.
Be Considerate of Other Visitors: The pilgrimage is a spiritual journey, and many pilgrims seek quiet reflection. Keep noise levels down, especially at temples and in accommodations. Be mindful of local residents and their privacy.
Respect Cultural Heritage: The temples and the route itself are steeped in history and spiritual significance. Be respectful of religious practices, dress modestly when visiting temples, and follow any posted rules or guidelines. Do not deface temple property or leave offerings outside designated areas.
