Bolivia — Uyuni
Walk across the world's largest salt flat on the Salar de Uyuni Traverse, a 60km, 3-4 day moderate route in Bolivia's Altiplano. This surreal, high-altitude trek at 3,656m offers a unique landscape of blinding white hexagonal salt tiles and ancient volcanic "islands" topped with giant cacti. Prepare for an isolated, otherworldly wilderness experience.
Distance: 60.0 km
Elevation Gain: 500 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 3-4 days
The Salar de Uyuni Traverse is perhaps the most surreal trekking experience on Earth—a 60.0 km journey across the world’s largest salt flat, situated at a staggering 3,656 metres above sea level in the Altiplano of southwestern Bolivia. Spanning over 10,000 square kilometres, this prehistoric dried lake bed offers a landscape of blinding white hexagonal salt tiles, punctuated only by ancient "islands" that are actually the tops of submerged volcanoes covered in giant cacti. Unlike traditional mountain treks, the Salar de Uyuni Traverse is a test of mental endurance and navigation, where the horizon disappears into a seamless blend of earth and sky. It is a place where perspective is lost, and the sheer scale of the wilderness becomes a physical presence. This is not merely a walk; it is an expedition into a high-altitude desert that demands meticulous planning, physical resilience against the elements, and a deep respect for one of the most fragile ecosystems in the Andes.
The Salar de Uyuni is a geological marvel, the remnant of several prehistoric lakes that evaporated tens of thousands of years ago, leaving behind a crust of salt several metres thick that contains over half of the world's known lithium reserves. For the trekker, however, the Salar is less a mineral resource and more a psychological frontier. The traverse typically begins near the village of Colchani on the eastern edge and cuts across the heart of the flats toward the "islands" of Incahuasi or Isla Pescado, eventually concluding on the western shores near Llica. The terrain is almost perfectly flat, with an elevation variance of less than one metre across the entire 10,000 square kilometres, creating a sensation of walking on a frozen, white ocean.
The experience is defined by the "white-out" effect—not from snow, but from the reflective power of the salt. Under the intense Altiplano sun, the ground reflects nearly 80% of UV radiation, making high-quality eye protection and skin coverage mandatory. The silence is absolute; away from the occasional distant hum of a 4x4 tour vehicle, the only sound is the crunch of salt crystals beneath your boots. The lack of visual landmarks makes navigation by GPS or compass essential, as the human brain struggles to estimate distance in an environment where a mountain 50 kilometres away looks as though it is within an hour's reach.
While most visitors experience the Salar via motorised tours, walking the traverse allows for a profound connection with the landscape. You witness the subtle changes in the salt patterns—from the classic "honeycomb" hexagons formed by the drying process to the "Ojos del Salar" (Eyes of the Salt), where groundwater bubbles up through the crust. At night, the Salar transforms. The temperature plummets well below freezing, but the reward is a celestial display of the Milky Way so bright it casts shadows on the white ground. This trek is a journey of minimalism, requiring walkers to carry all their water and supplies through a void that is as beautiful as it is unforgiving.
The history of the Salar de Uyuni is inextricably linked to the Aymara people, who have inhabited the Altiplano for millennia. According to local legend, the Salar was formed from the tears and breast milk of the goddess Tunupa, a nearby volcano, after she was abandoned by her husband, Kusku. The salt is seen not just as a mineral, but as a sacred substance. For centuries, "saleros" (salt miners) have harvested the crust using traditional methods, creating small mounds to dry before transporting the salt by llama caravan to the valleys of Bolivia to trade for coca leaves, maize, and wood. Even today, you can see these traditional mounds near Colchani, though modern trucks have largely replaced the llama trains.
Geologically, the Salar is the result of the transformation of several prehistoric lakes. Lake Minchin (40,000 years ago) and Lake Tauca (11,000 years ago) once covered this entire region. When they dried up due to tectonic shifts and climatic changes, they left behind the massive salt deposits we see today. Beneath the solid crust lies a liquid brine rich in lithium, potassium, and magnesium. This has placed the Salar at the centre of global economic interest, as Bolivia holds a significant portion of the world's lithium—a key component in electric vehicle batteries. The tension between industrial development and the preservation of this unique landscape is a defining feature of the region's modern history.
The "islands" within the Salar, such as Incahuasi, serve as archaeological treasure troves. These outcrops of coral-like volcanic rock are covered in Trichocereus pasacana cacti, some of which are over 1,000 years old. They contain remains of ancient Aymara ceremonial sites and provide a glimpse into how humans have navigated this "sea of salt" for generations. Walking the traverse is, in many ways, following the ancient paths of the llama caravans, albeit with modern gear and a different purpose.
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The Salar de Uyuni has two distinct seasons, and for the trekker, the choice between them is a matter of safety and feasibility. The dry season (April to November) is the only time a full traverse on foot is recommended. During these months, the salt crust is hard, dry, and stable. The skies are almost perpetually clear, providing the best conditions for navigation and photography. However, this is also the coldest time of year. In June and July, night-time temperatures on the salt can drop to -15°C or even -20°C, accompanied by fierce, biting winds that sweep across the Altiplano.
The wet season (December to March) brings a different phenomenon: the "mirror effect." A thin layer of water covers the salt, creating a perfect reflection of the sky. While this is visually stunning and draws thousands of tourists in vehicles, it is extremely difficult and dangerous for walkers. The water is highly alkaline and can cause chemical burns to the skin and damage to footwear and gear. Furthermore, the salt becomes soft and slushy, making walking exhausting and increasing the risk of breaking through the crust into the brine below. Navigation also becomes significantly harder as the horizon line disappears entirely.
Shoulder months like April and November offer a compromise, with slightly warmer temperatures and a lower chance of rain, though the wind remains a constant factor. Regardless of the month, the Altiplano weather is characterised by extreme diurnal temperature swings. You may be walking in a t-shirt under a burning sun at midday (20°C) and wearing four layers of down and wool by 8:00 PM. The air is incredibly dry, which accelerates dehydration and can cause skin and lips to crack within hours if not protected.
Day 1: Colchani to the Salt Flats Interior
Day 2: The Deep White to Isla Incahuasi
Day 3: Isla Incahuasi to the Western Horizon
Day 4: Final Push to Llica or the Mainland
Important Notes:
The Salar de Uyuni Traverse is an unsupported expedition in a high-altitude desert. The most critical preparation is acclimatisation. Uyuni sits at 3,656 metres, and many trekkers arrive from lower elevations. It is essential to spend at least 3–4 days at altitude (in Uyuni, La Paz, or Potosí) before starting the walk. Altitude sickness (soroche) can be fatal, and the physical exertion of walking on the Salar will exacerbate any symptoms.
Logistics are the second major challenge. There are no water sources on the Salar. For a 4-day trek, you would need to carry approximately 20–24 litres of water, which is physically impossible for most. Therefore, you must either hire a support vehicle to meet you at designated points or arrange "water drops" in advance with a local tour operator. Coordination with a reputable agency in Uyuni is highly recommended to ensure your survival supplies are where they need to be.
Accommodation on the Salar de Uyuni Traverse is primarily wild camping, which requires specialised equipment and a high tolerance for cold.
Camping on the Salt:
Isla Incahuasi Refugios:
Salt Hotels:
Currently, there is no formal permit required by the Bolivian government to walk across the Salar de Uyuni. However, this does not mean the area is unregulated. The Salar is managed by local communities and the regional government of Potosí, and certain rules must be followed to ensure safety and environmental protection.
Local Fees and Access:
Logistical Coordination:
Customs and Regulations:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Salar De Uyuni Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Salar De Uyuni Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Salar de Uyuni is the gateway to the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, one of Bolivia's most spectacular regions. Consider these additions to your trip:
Altitude and Environment:
Navigation Hazards:
Temperature Extremes:
Emergency Contacts:
Isla Pescado: Often confused with Incahuasi, Isla Pescado is a larger, much less visited island located about 20 km further west. It is named for its fish-like shape when viewed from a distance. It offers complete solitude and even larger cacti than Incahuasi, making it a perfect detour for those who want to escape the tour jeep routes.
The Ojos del Salar: These "Eyes of the Salt" are small, circular openings in the crust where cold water from underground rivers bubbles to the surface. The water is highly acidic and often surrounded by colourful mineral deposits. They are fascinating geological features but be careful not to step too close, as the edges can be unstable.
Galaxy Caves (Grutas de las Galaxias): Located on the periphery of the Salar near the village of Aguaquiza, these caves feature unique sub-aquatic limestone formations that look like bone or coral, formed when the region was still covered by prehistoric lakes. Nearby are ancient Chullpas (Aymara burial towers).
Colchani Salt Museum: A small, locally-run museum in the village where you can learn about the salt extraction process and see sculptures made entirely of salt. It provides excellent context before you begin your walk into the void.
The Salar de Uyuni is a fragile prehistoric landscape. While it may look like a vast, indestructible wasteland, the salt crust and the life on the islands are highly sensitive to human impact. The growth rate of the Trichocereus cacti is only 1 centimetre per year; a cactus that is 10 metres tall has been standing since the time of the Crusades.
Your responsibility as a walker: