USA — North Conway, New Hampshire
USA's White Mountains Presidential Traverse: a 50.5 km, 2-3 day, very challenging trek across New Hampshire's rugged Presidential Range. This demanding route stays primarily above the treeline, offering extraordinary exposure and relentless vertical gain across its granite crest. Expect breathtaking panoramas and a profound connection with this pristine highland wilderness.
Distance: 50.5 km
Elevation Gain: 2743 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 2-3 days
The Presidential Traverse is widely regarded as the most challenging and prestigious mountain trek in the Northeastern United States. Spanning approximately 50.5 kilometres across the rugged spine of the Presidential Range in New Hampshire's White Mountain National Forest, this journey is defined by its relentless vertical gain and its extraordinary exposure. Unlike many long-distance trails that dip in and out of valleys, the Presidential Traverse stays primarily above the treeline, crossing a series of granite summits named after United States presidents. It is a landscape of alpine tundra, ancient krummholz forest, and weather conditions that are famously some of the most volatile on the planet. For the modern trekker, it represents a test of physical endurance, navigational skill, and respect for the raw power of the mountain environment.
The route typically involves summiting at least seven "four-thousand footers" (peaks over 1,219 metres), including the formidable Mount Washington, which stands as the highest point in the Northeast at 1,917 metres. The total elevation gain exceeds 2,743 metres, often accomplished over two to three days of strenuous effort. This is not a journey for the faint-hearted or the ill-prepared; the terrain is notoriously rocky, consisting of jagged "boulder fields" that require constant focus and stable footwork. However, the reward for this exertion is a panoramic vista that stretches across the White Mountains into Maine, Vermont, and Canada—a sea of green peaks and deep glacial cirques that feels more like the Scottish Highlands or the European Alps than the American East Coast.
The Presidential Traverse is a masterclass in high-altitude trekking within a temperate zone. The range acts as a barrier to the prevailing westerly winds, creating a microclimate where weather can shift from benign sunshine to life-threatening storms in a matter of minutes. The "Alpine Zone"—the area above the limit of tree growth—is one of the largest of its kind in the eastern United States, home to rare Arctic-alpine flora that has survived since the last ice age. Walking this ridge is a journey through time, where the geological history of the Appalachian Orogeny is written in the grey schist and quartz that litters the path.
The journey is traditionally tackled from North to South, starting at the Appalachia Trailhead on Route 2. This direction is preferred because it places the steepest, most technical climbs—Mount Madison and Mount Adams—at the beginning of the trek when legs are freshest. The ascent from the valley floor to the first summit involves a gruelling 1,200-metre climb through dense hardwood forests, transitioning into stunted balsam fir and spruce (krummholz), before finally emerging onto the windswept rock of the high peaks. Once above the treeline, the trekker remains exposed to the elements for the majority of the next 30 kilometres.
Mount Washington serves as the psychological and physical midpoint of the traverse. Known as the "Home of the World's Worst Weather," it held the world record for the highest wind speed ever recorded by a human (372 km/h) for decades. Even in mid-summer, temperatures on the summit can hover near freezing, and fog (locally known as "the clouds") obscures the trail on more than 300 days a year. Navigating the "rock piles" of the Presidential Range in low visibility requires a keen eye for the large stone cairns that mark the route. This is a landscape that demands humility; there are no easy kilometres on the Presidential Traverse, only hard-won metres and spectacular, humbling beauty.
The Presidential Range has been a site of human fascination and spiritual significance for millennia. Long before European settlers arrived, the indigenous Abenaki people revered these mountains. They called Mount Washington "Agiocochook," meaning "Place of the Great Spirit" or "Home of the Great Spirit." Out of respect for the sacred nature of the heights, they rarely climbed above the treeline, believing the summits to be the dwelling place of powerful deities who controlled the weather. The mountains were a constant presence in their cosmology, serving as landmarks and symbols of the enduring power of the natural world.
The first recorded European ascent of Mount Washington occurred in 1642 by Darby Field, an adventurous settler from Exeter, New Hampshire. Field’s journey was considered an extraordinary feat of exploration at the time, as the interior of the White Mountains was largely unmapped and feared. By the mid-19th century, the range became a focal point for the American Romantic movement. Artists, poets, and writers flocked to the region to capture the "sublime" beauty of the peaks, leading to the development of grand hotels in the valleys below. This era saw the naming of the peaks after US Presidents—Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe—reflecting the young nation's desire to project its identity onto its grandest landscapes.
The history of the Presidential Traverse is also inextricably linked to the birth of American hiking culture. The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC), founded in 1876, is the oldest outdoor recreation and conservation organisation in the United States. They began building the legendary "Hut System" in 1888, starting with Madison Spring Hut. These stone and timber shelters were designed to provide safety and hospitality to hikers in the treacherous alpine zone, modelled after the mountain refuges of the European Alps. Today, the huts remain a vital part of the traverse experience, staffed by "croos" of young enthusiasts who pack in supplies on their backs and provide hot meals to weary trekkers. The trail itself is a patchwork of historic paths, some of which have been in continuous use for over 150 years, maintained by generations of dedicated trail crews who move massive stones by hand to ensure the path remains passable.
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The window for a safe and enjoyable Presidential Traverse is remarkably narrow. Due to its northern latitude and high elevation, the range experiences "Arctic" conditions for much of the year. For most trekkers, the season is limited to the summer months and early autumn.
Summer (July to August): This is the peak season. The alpine flowers, such as the rare Diapensia and Alpine Azalea, bloom in early July, carpeting the rocky slopes in vibrant whites and pinks. Days are long, providing ample light for the 10–12 hour trekking days. However, summer also brings the risk of violent afternoon thunderstorms. These storms can materialise with little warning, turning the exposed ridges into lightning magnets. Trekkers must be prepared to descend below the treeline immediately if thunder is heard.
Autumn (September to early October): Many consider September the finest month for the traverse. The air is crisper, the humidity of summer vanishes, and the visibility often extends for over 150 kilometres. The "fall foliage" in the valleys below creates a spectacular tapestry of reds and golds. However, the risk of early-season snow and ice increases significantly after mid-September. Temperatures on Mount Washington can drop to -10°C overnight, and "rime ice" can coat the rocks, making travel extremely hazardous.
Winter and Shoulder Seasons (November to June): During these months, the Presidential Traverse is a serious mountaineering undertaking. The range receives an average of 7 metres of snow annually. Hurricane-force winds are common, and wind chill factors can plummet to -50°C. The trails are buried under deep snow and ice, requiring crampons, ice axes, and expert-level winter navigation skills. Avalanche danger is a constant threat in the glacial cirques (ravines). This period is strictly for highly experienced winter mountaineers; for the average hiker, the range is effectively closed.
Day 1: Appalachia Trailhead to Madison Spring Hut
Day 2: Madison Spring Hut to Lakes of the Clouds Hut
Day 3: Lakes of the Clouds Hut to Crawford Notch
Important Notes:
The Presidential Traverse requires a high level of physical fitness and logistical coordination. Trekkers should be comfortable carrying a 10–15 kg pack over steep, uneven terrain for 8 or more hours a day. Training should focus on vertical gain and "stair-stepping" movements. Because this is a point-to-point hike, transport is a primary concern. Most hikers either use two cars (parking one at Crawford Notch and one at Appalachia) or book the AMC Hiker Shuttle, which runs seasonally between the major trailheads. North Conway and Gorham are the nearest towns, offering full services, gear shops, and lodging for the night before your start.
Booking coordination is the most difficult part of the planning process. You must align your fitness, your transport, and the availability of the AMC huts. It is highly recommended to stay in the huts rather than camping, as legal campsites are rare and often located far below the ridge, requiring significant extra elevation loss and gain each day.
The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) operates a series of high-mountain huts along the Presidential Range. These are the only legal indoor accommodations on the ridge.
Hut Facilities:
What Huts Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
Unlike many National Parks in the Western US, the White Mountain National Forest does not currently require a permit for day hiking or overnight trekking on the Presidential Traverse. However, there are several logistical costs and "de facto" permits in the form of hut reservations and parking fees.
Parking and Access:
Hut Reservations:
Group Size:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Presidential Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Presidential Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The White Mountains are a premier destination for outdoor enthusiasts, offering much more than just high-altitude trekking:
The "World's Worst Weather": This is not a marketing slogan; it is a meteorological reality. Mount Washington sits at the confluence of three major storm tracks (Atlantic, Gulf, and Pacific). This creates conditions where hurricane-force winds occur on average 110 days per year. Trekkers must check the Mount Washington Observatory's Higher Summits Forecast every morning. If the forecast calls for sustained winds over 65 km/h or a high probability of thunderstorms, the traverse should be postponed.
Hypothermia: This is the leading cause of death in the Presidential Range, and it occurs most frequently in the summer. A combination of 10°C temperatures, 60 km/h winds, and rain can lead to fatal hypothermia in less than an hour if a hiker is not wearing proper synthetic layers and a waterproof shell. Never wear cotton, which loses all insulating properties when wet.
Navigation and Visibility: In "the clouds," visibility can drop to less than 5 metres. The trail is marked by stone cairns, but in heavy fog, it is easy to lose the line. Trekkers must be proficient with a map and compass. If you lose the trail, do not wander; stay at the last known cairn and wait for a break in the clouds or use your compass to follow a known bearing to safety.
Bail-out Points: Every trekker must have a "Plan B." There are numerous trails that lead off the ridge into the valleys (e.g., Lowe’s Path, Jewell Trail, Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail). Know which trails lead to your transport and which lead to the "wrong" side of the mountain. In an emergency, descending below the treeline is your first priority.
Search and Rescue: New Hampshire Fish and Game conducts rescues, but they are expensive and not guaranteed in extreme weather. Hikers are encouraged to purchase a "Hike Safe" card (approx. US$25), which acts as a form of insurance against the costs of a non-negligent rescue.
The Tip Top House: Located on the summit of Mount Washington, this 1853 stone building is the oldest surviving mountain house in the range. It has served as a hotel, a printing office, and a weather station. Today, it is a museum that offers a glimpse into the rugged lives of early mountain explorers.
Star Lake: A small, pristine alpine tarn located in the col between Mount Madison and Mount Adams. It is one of the highest bodies of water in the White Mountains and provides a stunning foreground for photographs of the jagged peaks of Adams.
Tuckerman Ravine: While not directly on the traverse path, a short detour to the lip of this massive glacial cirque is worthwhile. Famous for extreme spring skiing, the ravine features 200-metre headwalls and a dramatic "bowl" shape that is a testament to the power of ancient glaciers.
The Lakes of the Clouds: Two small alpine ponds located just below the summit of Mount Washington. They are home to rare aquatic life and offer some of the most iconic views in the range, especially when the peaks are reflected in the still water at dawn.
Mount Clay: Often overlooked as it is not an "official" 4,000-footer (due to lack of prominence), Clay offers perhaps the best views of the Great Gulf Wilderness—a massive, deep valley that remains one of the most remote areas in New England.
The alpine tundra of the Presidential Range is an island of Arctic life in a temperate sea. The plants here, such as the Robbins' Cinquefoil, are found nowhere else on Earth. Because of the short growing season (often less than 60 days), a single footstep off the trail can destroy a plant that took 20 years to grow. The "Carry In, Carry Out" policy is strictly enforced, and trekkers are expected to be stewards of this fragile wilderness.
Specific Alpine Guidelines:
