Nepal — Pokhara
The Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek in Nepal is a moderate 40km circuit offering a stunning introduction to the Annapurna range. This 4-5 day route ascends to 3,210m at the Poon Hill viewpoint, a natural amphitheatre showcasing panoramic vistas of Himalayan giants. Walk through rhododendron forests and charming villages, experiencing diverse terrain and breathtaking mountain scenery.
Distance: 40.0 km
Elevation Gain: 1600 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 4-5 days
The Poon Hill Trek, often referred to as the Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, is Nepal’s most celebrated short-duration mountain journey. Located within the sprawling Annapurna Conservation Area, this 40.0 km circuit offers a profound introduction to the grandeur of the Himalayas without the extreme altitude or technical demands of longer expeditions. Rising to a maximum elevation of 3,210 metres at the Poon Hill viewpoint, the trail serves as a natural amphitheatre, providing a front-row seat to some of the highest peaks on Earth, including the formidable Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and the iconic Annapurna I (8,091 m). This is a journey through the cultural heartland of the Gurung and Magar peoples, where ancient rhododendron forests meet terraced farmlands, and where the hospitality of mountain teahouses provides a warm sanctuary against the crisp alpine air. For many, this trek is not merely a physical challenge but a spiritual awakening, punctuated by the sight of the first morning light igniting the snow-capped summits in hues of molten gold and soft violet.
The Poon Hill Trek is a masterclass in ecological and cultural diversity, condensed into a manageable four-to-five-day itinerary. Starting from the subtropical lowlands near Nayapul, the trail ascends through a vertical landscape that transitions rapidly from lush, humid river valleys to temperate forests of oak and giant rhododendron. The route is famous for its "Ulleri Stairs"—a relentless ascent of over 3,000 stone steps that tests the resolve of even fit walkers, yet rewards them with increasingly dramatic vistas of the "Fishtail" peak, Machhapuchhre (6,993 m). Unlike the high-altitude deserts of the Mustang region or the stark moraines of Everest Base Camp, the Poon Hill circuit remains vibrantly green for much of the year, offering a softer, more pastoral beauty that contrasts sharply with the jagged, ice-clad giants looming on the horizon.
The primary draw of this trek is the summit of Poon Hill itself. While the trek is physically demanding due to the constant elevation changes, it does not reach the "death zone" altitudes, making it an ideal choice for families, first-time trekkers, or those with limited time in Nepal. The infrastructure along the route is among the best in the country; the villages of Ghorepani and Ghandruk are well-established trekking hubs with comfortable teahouses, diverse menus, and a sense of community that is rare in more remote regions. Here, the rhythm of the day is dictated by the sun: early starts to catch the mountain views before the afternoon clouds roll in, and long, social evenings gathered around a central wood-burning stove in a communal dining hall.
Beyond the physical landscape, the trek offers an intimate look at the agrarian lifestyle of the middle hills. You will share the trail with mule trains carrying supplies, pass through schoolyards where children play against a backdrop of 8,000-metre peaks, and witness the intricate system of terraced farming that has sustained these communities for centuries. The Poon Hill Trek is a sensory experience—the scent of pine needles and woodsmoke, the sound of prayer flags snapping in the wind, and the sight of the Annapurna Massif reflected in the morning dew. It is a journey that proves you do not need to climb the highest peaks to experience the true soul of the Himalayas.
The history of the Poon Hill region is inextricably linked to the ancient trade routes that connected the Tibetan plateau with the fertile plains of India. The village of Ghorepani, which translates literally to "Horse Water" (Ghore meaning horse, Pani meaning water), served for centuries as a vital resting point for traders and their pack animals. Before the advent of modern trekking in the 1970s, these trails were the lifelines of the Gurung and Magar ethnic groups, who moved salt, grain, and wool across the rugged terrain. The stone-paved paths you walk today are the result of generations of communal labour, designed to withstand the torrential rains of the monsoon and the heavy traffic of livestock.
The cultural fabric of the region is dominated by the Gurung people, renowned globally for their bravery and service as Gurkha soldiers in the British and Indian armies. Many of the teahouses and lodges along the trail are owned and operated by retired soldiers or their families, and it is common to see framed photographs of ancestors in military uniform adorning the walls. This military heritage has brought a unique level of organisation and cleanliness to the villages, particularly in Ghandruk, which is often cited as one of the most beautiful and well-maintained traditional villages in Nepal. The Gurung culture is also rich in shamanistic traditions and Tibetan Buddhism, evidenced by the numerous chortens (stupas), mani walls (engraved prayer stones), and colourful prayer flags that mark the high points and entrances of the villages.
The development of the Poon Hill Trek as a tourist destination began in earnest following the opening of Nepal to foreigners in the mid-20th century. It gained significant popularity in the 1980s as the "Annapurna View Trek," offering a safer and more accessible alternative to the full Annapurna Circuit. Today, the region is a cornerstone of Nepal’s trekking economy, but it remains deeply rooted in its heritage. The preservation of the rhododendron forests—the largest of their kind in the world—is a point of local pride, and the community-led conservation efforts under the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) serve as a global model for sustainable mountain tourism.
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The Poon Hill Trek is a seasonal experience, with the character of the landscape changing dramatically throughout the year. The most popular times to visit are the post-monsoon autumn (October to November) and the pre-monsoon spring (March to May). During these windows, the weather is generally stable, and the views are at their most reliable.
Autumn (October–November): This is widely considered the "gold standard" for trekking in Nepal. After the monsoon rains have washed the atmosphere clean of dust, the air is exceptionally clear, providing the sharpest possible views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The temperatures are moderate—warm during the day for walking in light layers, and crisp but manageable at night. This is also the time of major Nepalese festivals like Dashain and Tihar, adding a vibrant cultural layer to the journey.
Spring (March–May): For nature lovers, spring is the most spectacular season. This is when the world’s largest rhododendron forests burst into bloom. The hillsides are transformed into a sea of crimson, pink, and white flowers, particularly between Ulleri and Ghorepani. While the mornings are usually clear, afternoon clouds are more common than in autumn, and the temperatures are slightly warmer. This is also the best time for birdwatching, as migratory species return to the temperate forests.
Winter (December–February): Winter offers the advantage of quiet trails and crystal-clear skies, but it comes with significant cold. Temperatures at Ghorepani can drop well below -10° Celsius at night, and snow can occasionally block the trail to the Poon Hill summit. Many teahouses remain open, but you will need a high-quality down jacket and a four-season sleeping bag. The sunrise from Poon Hill in winter is particularly stark and beautiful, with the snow-covered peaks reflecting a cold, brilliant light.
Monsoon (June–September): Trekking during the monsoon is generally discouraged. The region receives heavy rainfall, which leads to muddy trails, frequent landslides, and an abundance of leeches in the forest sections. Most importantly, the mountains are frequently obscured by thick cloud cover, meaning you may complete the entire trek without seeing a single peak. However, for those interested in botany, the flora is at its most lush, and the waterfalls are in full, thunderous force.
Day 1: Nayapul to Ulleri
Day 2: Ulleri to Ghorepani
Day 3: Ghorepani to Poon Hill and Tadapani
Day 4: Tadapani to Ghandruk and Nayapul
Important Notes:
The Poon Hill Trek requires a moderate level of physical fitness. While you do not need mountaineering experience, you should be comfortable walking 5–7 hours a day on uneven, steep terrain. Training should focus on cardiovascular endurance and leg strength; climbing stairs with a weighted pack is the best way to prepare for the Ulleri ascent. Unlike the more remote treks in Nepal, the Poon Hill route does not require advanced booking of accommodation, as there are numerous teahouses in every village. However, during the peak months of October and April, the best lodges can fill up by mid-afternoon, so an early start each day is beneficial.
Pokhara is the essential base for this trek. It is a vibrant lakeside city where you can purchase or rent any necessary gear, arrange for guides and porters, and obtain your permits. Most trekkers leave their main luggage at their Pokhara hotel and carry only what they need for the 4–5 days on the trail. It is highly recommended to hire a local guide or porter; not only does this support the local economy, but a guide provides invaluable cultural insight and ensures you find the best paths and lodges during busy periods.
Accommodation on the Poon Hill Trek consists of "teahouses"—locally owned guesthouses that provide a bed and hot meals. These vary from basic wooden huts to more modern concrete buildings with improved facilities.
Hut Facilities:
What Teahouses Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
To trek in the Annapurna region, two specific documents are mandatory. These must be obtained before you leave Pokhara or Kathmandu, as they cannot be purchased at the trail checkpoints. Failure to produce these permits can result in being turned back or paying a double-fee fine at the park gates.
1. Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP): This permit funds the conservation and infrastructure projects within the park. It is a single-entry permit valid for the duration of your trek.
2. Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) Card: This card is used to track trekkers for safety and security purposes. As of 2023, the Nepal government has mandated that all trekkers must have a TIMS card, and in many regions, trekking with a licensed guide is now officially required.
Important Permit Tips:
Precisely traced GPX for the Poon Hill Trek, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Annapurna region and the city of Pokhara offer a wealth of experiences to complement your trek:
Altitude Awareness: While Poon Hill (3,210 m) is not considered "high altitude" in Himalayan terms, it is high enough for some individuals to feel the effects of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Symptoms include headache, nausea, and dizziness. The best prevention is to ascend slowly, stay hydrated (drink 3–4 litres of water daily), and avoid alcohol. If symptoms persist or worsen, the only cure is to descend immediately. Fortunately, the trek's profile allows for a quick descent from almost any point.
Trail Conditions: The paths are generally well-maintained stone steps or dirt tracks. However, they can become extremely slippery when wet. The "Ulleri Stairs" are notorious for causing knee strain; using trekking poles and taking frequent breaks is essential. During the spring, be mindful of mule trains; always stand on the "mountain side" of the trail (away from the cliff edge) to let them pass, as they can inadvertently nudge you off the path.
Weather Hazards: Mountain weather is notoriously unpredictable. Even in peak season, a clear morning can turn into a thunderous afternoon. Hypothermia is a risk if you get wet and the temperature drops, so always keep your waterproof layers and a warm hat in your daypack. If you encounter heavy snow in winter, do not attempt the Poon Hill summit without a guide who knows the terrain.
Water and Food Safety: To avoid "Delhi Belly" or waterborne illnesses, never drink untreated tap or stream water. Use purification tablets or a filter. Stick to cooked foods and avoid raw salads or unpeeled fruit. The local staple, Dal Bhat, is the safest and most nutritious option, as it is always freshly prepared and provides the high-calorie intake needed for trekking.
Emergency Contacts: Ensure you have travel insurance that specifically covers "trekking up to 4,000 metres" and includes emergency helicopter evacuation. While rare on this route, evacuations do happen for serious injuries or illness. Keep your insurance policy number and the emergency contact line saved on your phone and written in your notebook.
The Gurung Museum in Ghandruk: This small, community-run museum is a treasure trove of local heritage. For a small fee, you can see traditional Gurung costumes, ancient agricultural implements, and household items that have been used for centuries. It provides a vital context to the villages you are walking through, transforming them from mere "stops" into living cultural landscapes. You can even dress up in traditional Gurung attire for a photograph against the mountains.
The "Fairy Forest" of Tadapani: The section of trail between Deurali and Tadapani passes through a dense, old-growth forest that feels like something out of a storybook. The trees are draped in thick, emerald-green moss and long strands of lichen known as "old man's beard." In the morning mist, this forest is incredibly atmospheric and offers some of the best opportunities for photography on the entire trek.
Birethanti Waterfalls: Near the start and end of the trek, the Modi Khola and Bhurungdi Khola rivers create several spectacular waterfalls. These are particularly impressive at the end of the monsoon season. The bridge at Birethanti offers a great vantage point to watch the powerful turquoise waters carving through the limestone boulders.
Sarangkot Extension: For those who want to end their trek with a final flourish, instead of driving from Nayapul to Pokhara, you can trek an additional day to Sarangkot. This ridge-top village offers a different perspective of the Annapurna range and allows you to walk all the way down to Phewa Lake, completing the journey entirely on foot.
The Annapurna Conservation Area is a delicate ecosystem under significant pressure from tourism. As a visitor, it is your responsibility to minimise your impact and help preserve this landscape for the local communities and future trekkers. The "Leave No Trace" principles are particularly critical in Nepal, where waste management infrastructure is limited.
Your responsibility as a walker:
Tread lightly and with respect. The Himalayas are not just a playground; they are a sacred home to millions. By following these principles, you ensure that the "Horse Water" of Ghorepani remains pure for generations to come.
