Argentina — San Carlos de Bariloche
Nahuel Huapi Traverse, Argentina: A demanding 45km, 4-5 day Patagonian alpine trek through Nahuel Huapi National Park. Traverse rugged scree slopes, high mountain passes, and dense Lenga forests, connecting iconic glacial lakes and jagged peaks. This remote wilderness route offers a true alpine panorama for experienced hikers.
Distance: 45.0 km
Elevation Gain: 2000 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 4-5 days
The Nahuel Huapi Traverse is a spectacular multi-day trek through the heart of Argentina's Nahuel Huapi National Park, a vast wilderness of jagged peaks, glacial lakes, and ancient forests in Patagonia. This challenging route connects some of the park's most iconic landscapes, offering a true Patagonian alpine experience. It winds through diverse terrain, from dense Lenga forests and open alpine meadows to rugged scree slopes and high mountain passes, all set against the dramatic backdrop of the Andes. The traverse is renowned for its breathtaking vistas, challenging ascents, and the opportunity to immerse oneself in the raw, untamed beauty of one of South America's premier national parks. While not as formally regulated as some international "Great Walks," it demands careful planning, self-sufficiency, and a good level of fitness due to its demanding nature and remote sections.
The Nahuel Huapi Traverse offers a profound journey through the diverse ecosystems of Nahuel Huapi National Park. Starting from the vicinity of Villa Catedral, a popular ski resort town near San Carlos de Bariloche, the trail gradually ascends into the Andean foothills. The initial days are often characterised by walking through dense, ancient Lenga forests, their gnarled branches creating a sense of timelessness. As the elevation increases, the forest gives way to more open alpine meadows, dotted with wildflowers during the summer months, and eventually to rocky, exposed terrain. The route typically involves crossing several high mountain passes, each offering panoramic views of the surrounding peaks, turquoise lakes, and vast glacial valleys.
Key highlights include the stunning vistas from passes like Cerro Catedral or those leading towards Refugio Frey and Refugio Jakob. The trail is not a single, clearly defined path but rather a network of interconnected trails that can be combined to create various routes. A common approach involves linking popular refugios (mountain huts) such as Refugio Frey, Refugio Jakob, and potentially others, depending on the chosen itinerary and desired difficulty. These refugios provide essential resting points, basic accommodation, and a communal atmosphere for trekkers. The landscape is sculpted by glaciers, evident in the U-shaped valleys, moraines, and the crystal-clear, often vibrantly coloured, glacial lakes that punctuate the scenery.
The weather in Patagonia is notoriously unpredictable. Trekkers must be prepared for all conditions, from brilliant sunshine and warm temperatures to sudden snowstorms, high winds, and heavy rain, even in the height of summer. This variability adds to the adventure but also underscores the importance of thorough preparation and robust gear. The Nahuel Huapi Traverse is an excellent choice for experienced hikers seeking a challenging and visually rewarding Patagonian trekking experience, offering a deep connection with the wild beauty of Argentina's Andean frontier.
The Nahuel Huapi region has a rich history, deeply intertwined with the indigenous Mapuche people who inhabited these lands for centuries. Their connection to the mountains, lakes, and forests was spiritual and practical, utilising the natural resources for sustenance and travel. The name "Nahuel Huapi" itself is of Mapuche origin, likely derived from "Nahuel" (jaguar) and "Huapi" (island), referring to the island of the same name in the lake, which holds significant cultural importance.
European exploration and settlement began in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The establishment of San Carlos de Bariloche as a town and the subsequent development of tourism and mountaineering activities led to the creation and marking of many of the trails that form the basis of the Nahuel Huapi Traverse. Pioneers like Francisco "Perito" Moreno, a renowned Argentine explorer and scientist, played a crucial role in documenting and advocating for the preservation of this stunning natural area, leading to the establishment of Nahuel Huapi National Park in 1934, one of Argentina's first national parks.
The network of refugios, many of which were built by the Club Andino Bariloche (CAB), a prominent mountaineering club, has been instrumental in making these high-mountain routes accessible to a wider range of hikers. These huts, often built with local materials and designed to blend into the landscape, have provided shelter and a sense of community for generations of trekkers. The history of the traverse is, therefore, a story of indigenous heritage, pioneering exploration, and the enduring human desire to explore and connect with wild mountain environments.
The primary trekking season for the Nahuel Huapi Traverse is during the Southern Hemisphere's summer, from November to April. This period offers the most favourable weather conditions, with longer daylight hours and generally milder temperatures, though still highly variable.
November and December (Spring): The landscape begins to awaken after winter. Snowmelt is still significant at higher elevations, and some higher passes may still be snow-covered in early November. Wildflowers start to bloom in the lower and mid-altitudes, adding vibrant colours to the meadows. Days are getting longer, providing ample time for hiking. Temperatures can be cool, especially at night and at altitude.
January and February (Peak Summer): This is the warmest period with the longest daylight hours. Snow has generally receded from most commonly used trails, making them more accessible. Wildflower displays are at their peak. However, this is also the period when winds can be strongest, and sudden thunderstorms are common. Sandflies can be present, though typically less of an issue than in some New Zealand locations.
March and April (Autumn): The landscape transforms into a spectacle of autumn colours, with the Lenga forests turning brilliant shades of red, orange, and yellow. This is a visually stunning time to hike. Temperatures begin to drop, and the days shorten. Snowfall becomes more likely at higher elevations towards the end of April. The winds may still be strong, but generally, the weather can be more stable than in mid-summer, with fewer crowds.
Winter (May to October): The Nahuel Huapi Traverse is generally not recommended for hiking during winter due to heavy snowfall, extreme cold, high winds, and avalanche risk. Trails become impassable, and refugios may be closed or operate with limited services. This period is for experienced winter mountaineers with appropriate gear and skills.
Weather Reality: Regardless of the season, Patagonian weather is famously fickle. Trekkers must be prepared for rapid changes. Sunshine can quickly turn to driving rain, hail, or even snow, often accompanied by strong winds. Hypothermia is a risk even in summer at higher altitudes. Always check forecasts before setting out and be ready to adapt your plans.
Day 1: Villa Catedral to Refugio Frey
Day 2: Refugio Frey to Refugio Jakob
Day 3: Refugio Jakob to Refugio Neumeyer (or similar)
Day 4: Refugio Neumeyer to Villa Catedral (or alternative exit)
Important Notes:
The Nahuel Huapi Traverse requires significant preparation due to its challenging nature and the remoteness of some sections. San Carlos de Bariloche is the primary gateway city, offering all necessary amenities for pre-trek preparations. It's crucial to have a solid understanding of the route, weather patterns, and your own physical capabilities. Booking accommodation at refugios in advance is highly recommended, especially during the peak summer months (January-February), as they can fill up quickly. Ensure you have a reliable way to get to and from the trailhead at Villa Catedral. Consider purchasing detailed topographic maps of the area and familiarising yourself with navigation techniques. A good level of cardiovascular fitness and strength is essential, as the trek involves sustained ascents and descents over multiple days, often on uneven terrain.
The Nahuel Huapi Traverse primarily utilises a network of mountain refugios (huts) managed by the Club Andino Bariloche (CAB) and some private operators. These refugios offer basic accommodation, typically in dormitory-style rooms with bunk beds. Some may also have designated camping areas nearby.
Refugio Facilities:
What's NOT Provided:
Booking Requirements:
This is a multi-day hike requiring overnight accommodation in refugios or tents.
Unlike some highly regulated international trails, the Nahuel Huapi Traverse does not typically require a formal permit for independent hikers to access the trails themselves. However, access to and use of the mountain refugios (huts) managed by the Club Andino Bariloche (CAB) or other operators usually requires advance booking and payment. It is crucial to confirm the booking requirements and fees directly with CAB or the specific refugio you intend to stay in, as policies can change.
Key points regarding permits and bookings:
It is highly recommended to visit the Club Andino Bariloche website or contact their office in Bariloche for the most up-to-date information on refugio availability, booking procedures, and any associated fees.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Nahuel Huapi Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Nahuel Huapi Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
San Carlos de Bariloche and the surrounding Nahuel Huapi National Park offer a wealth of activities beyond the traverse:
Weather Preparedness: The most significant safety concern in the Nahuel Huapi region is the unpredictable and often extreme weather. Be prepared for rapid changes, including strong winds, heavy rain, hail, and snow, even in summer. Always check the weather forecast before setting out and be willing to alter your plans if conditions are dangerous. Hypothermia is a real risk at higher altitudes.
Navigation: While many trails are marked, they can be indistinct in places, especially in poor visibility or after heavy snowfall. Carry detailed topographic maps, a compass, and a GPS device or smartphone with offline maps. Familiarise yourself with navigation techniques before your trip. Inform someone of your itinerary and expected return time.
Refugio Safety: Refugios provide shelter, but they are basic. Ensure you have a warm sleeping bag, as they are unheated. Be mindful of fire safety if stoves are used. Respect the rules and the other hikers. If camping, choose a safe, established site away from potential rockfall or flood zones.
Water Sources: Water is generally abundant from streams and lakes. However, it is always recommended to treat water (filter, boil, or use purification tablets) to avoid waterborne illnesses, especially downstream from refugios or grazing areas.
Wildlife: While large dangerous animals are rare, be aware of your surroundings. Dogs accompanying hikers should be kept under control. The native wildlife, including birds and smaller mammals, should not be fed.
Physical Fitness: The Nahuel Huapi Traverse is a challenging trek. Ensure you have a good level of cardiovascular fitness and strength. Be aware of your limits and do not push yourself beyond them, especially in remote areas.
Emergency Contacts: Have the contact numbers for the Club Andino Bariloche and local emergency services readily available. Consider carrying a personal locator beacon (PLB) for remote sections.
Trail Conditions: Trails can be rocky, uneven, and steep. Be cautious of loose scree, slippery roots, and stream crossings. Snow can linger on high passes well into summer.
Refugio Frey and Laguna Toncek: The iconic Refugio Frey, with its distinctive stone architecture, sits beside the stunning Laguna Toncek. The surrounding granite spires of Cerro Catedral are a magnet for climbers and offer incredible photographic opportunities. A short walk around the lake provides different perspectives.
Laguna Jakob: Located near Refugio Jakob, this glacial lake is another picturesque spot. The surrounding amphitheatre of peaks offers a dramatic backdrop and potential for further exploration of higher alpine terrain.
Cerro Catedral Summit: While the traverse may not go directly over the summit, the area around Cerro Catedral offers numerous viewpoints and opportunities for short ascents to gain spectacular panoramas of the surrounding mountain ranges and lakes.
Refugio Otto Meiling: Although often a separate trek, a detour towards Refugio Otto Meiling offers incredible views of the massive Cerro Tronador and its glaciers, including the Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier). This is a significant side trip but highly rewarding for glacier enthusiasts.
Alpine Meadows and Wildflowers: During the summer months, the alpine meadows along the traverse burst into colour with a variety of wildflowers. These areas are beautiful to explore and photograph.
Ancient Lenga Forests: The dense, ancient Lenga forests are a significant feature of the lower and mid-altitude sections of the traverse. Their unique twisted forms and moss-covered branches create a magical atmosphere.
The Nahuel Huapi National Park is a pristine wilderness area, and it is essential for all visitors to practice Leave No Trace principles to preserve its natural beauty and ecological integrity for future generations. The popularity of the region means that responsible behaviour is paramount.
Plan Ahead and Prepare: Research your route, understand the conditions, and pack appropriately. Inform someone of your plans.
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: Stick to marked trails to avoid damaging vegetation. Use designated campsites or durable surfaces near refugios. Avoid creating new campsites.
Dispose of Waste Properly: Pack out everything you pack in, including all food scraps, wrappers, and toilet paper. Use designated toilets at refugios. If no facilities are available, dig catholes at least 60 metres away from water sources, trails, and campsites.
Leave What You Find: Do not remove plants, rocks, or any natural objects. Respect cultural heritage sites.
Minimise Campfire Impacts: Campfires are often prohibited in national parks due to fire risk and impact on vegetation. Use a lightweight stove for cooking instead.
Respect Wildlife: Observe wildlife from a distance. Never feed animals, as it can harm their health and alter their natural behaviours.
Be Considerate of Other Visitors: Keep noise levels down, yield to others on the trail, and maintain a respectful attitude towards fellow hikers and locals.
