Italy — Assisi
Walk the Monte Subasio Loop, a moderate 24.1km circuit in Italy's Umbria region. This 6-8 hour walk encircles the sacred mountain, offering a rich tapestry of history and natural beauty. Traverse varied terrain, from ancient woodlands to open meadows, with stunning panoramas of the surrounding highlands. This route, deeply connected to Saint Francis of Assisi, provides a captivating cultural immersion.
Distance: 24.1 km
Elevation Gain: 850 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 6-8 hours
The Monte Subasio Loop is a captivating day walk that winds its way through the heart of Umbria, Italy, offering a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty. This moderate trail, best experienced during the gentle embrace of spring or the crisp air of autumn, encircles the sacred mountain of Monte Subasio, a place deeply intertwined with the life and legacy of Saint Francis of Assisi. The loop begins and ends near the historic town of Assisi, providing a convenient base for exploration and a perfect starting point for this spiritual and scenic journey. As you traverse the path, you'll encounter ancient hermitages, breathtaking panoramic views of the Umbrian countryside, olive groves, and dense oak forests, all while walking in the footsteps of one of history's most revered figures. This walk is not merely a physical exertion but a contemplative experience, inviting reflection on faith, nature, and the enduring spirit of this remarkable region.
The Monte Subasio Loop is a circular route that offers a comprehensive immersion into the Umbrian landscape and its profound spiritual heritage. The trail is designed to be walked in a single day, making it accessible for a wide range of hikers, though its moderate difficulty and significant elevation gain require a reasonable level of fitness. The path meanders through diverse terrains, from the cultivated slopes surrounding Assisi, dotted with olive groves and vineyards, to the wilder, more rugged higher reaches of Monte Subasio, cloaked in ancient forests of oak and holm oak.
A significant portion of the loop follows ancient pathways and mule tracks, many of which have been trodden for centuries by pilgrims, hermits, and local villagers. The trail's spiritual resonance is palpable, particularly as it passes by or near sites associated with Saint Francis and his followers, such as the Eremo delle Carceri (Hermitage of the Prisons), a place of profound peace and contemplation where Saint Francis and his early companions sought solitude. The views from Monte Subasio are simply spectacular, offering sweeping vistas across the Umbrian plain, encompassing towns like Assisi, Spello, and Perugia, and on clear days, stretching as far as the Apennine Mountains. The changing seasons paint the landscape in different hues: spring brings a riot of wildflowers and fresh green foliage, while autumn offers a symphony of golden and russet tones, accompanied by the scent of ripening grapes and fallen leaves.
The loop is well-marked for the most part, though hikers should always carry a map and compass or GPS device, especially in the higher, more remote sections. The trail's moderate difficulty stems from its sustained ascents and descents, which can be demanding on the legs and cardiovascular system. However, the rewards—the breathtaking scenery, the historical depth, and the tranquil atmosphere—far outweigh the physical challenge. It is a journey that connects the walker to the land, its history, and its spiritual heart, offering a unique perspective on the enduring allure of Umbria.
Monte Subasio and its surroundings are steeped in history, most notably as the spiritual homeland of Saint Francis of Assisi, one of Christianity's most beloved saints. Born in Assisi in 1181, Francis renounced his wealthy upbringing to embrace a life of poverty, humility, and service to the poor and the natural world. Monte Subasio, with its caves and secluded spots, provided a sanctuary for Francis and his early followers, offering a place for prayer, meditation, and communion with nature. The Eremo delle Carceri, perched on the mountainside, is a testament to this period, a place where Francis is said to have received divine inspiration and where his profound connection to all creation was nurtured.
The trails that crisscross Monte Subasio are ancient pathways, predating even the time of Saint Francis. These routes were vital for communication and trade between the towns and villages of the Umbrian valley. Roman roads once traversed this region, and later, medieval pilgrims followed these same routes to reach Assisi, a significant pilgrimage destination. The Benedictine monks also established monasteries and hermitages in the area, contributing to its rich spiritual landscape.
The olive groves and vineyards that adorn the lower slopes of Monte Subasio are also part of a long agricultural tradition. For centuries, the fertile soil and favourable climate have supported the cultivation of olives and grapes, producing some of Italy's finest olive oil and wines. The dry-stone walls that delineate these fields, meticulously constructed over generations, are a testament to the enduring relationship between the people of Umbria and their land.
The Monte Subasio Loop, therefore, is more than just a hike; it is a journey through layers of history, from ancient Roman times to the medieval era of Saint Francis, and through a living agricultural heritage. Each step on this path is a connection to the past, a walk through a landscape shaped by faith, labour, and the passage of time.
The Monte Subasio Loop is a year-round destination, but its appeal varies significantly with the seasons. The best times to undertake this walk are during spring and autumn, when the weather is most conducive to hiking.
Spring (April–May): This is arguably the most beautiful time to walk the Monte Subasio Loop. The landscape bursts into vibrant life, with wildflowers carpeting the meadows and the forests displaying fresh, verdant foliage. Temperatures are mild and pleasant, typically ranging from 10°C to 20°C, making for comfortable hiking conditions. The air is clean and invigorating, and the light is soft and beautiful, ideal for photography. However, spring can also bring occasional rain showers, so waterproof gear is advisable.
Summer (June–August): Summers in Umbria can be hot, with temperatures frequently exceeding 30°C, especially in July and August. While the higher elevations of Monte Subasio offer some respite from the heat, hiking during the midday sun can be challenging and potentially dangerous. If hiking in summer, it is essential to start very early in the morning, carry ample water, and seek shade whenever possible. The landscape can appear drier during these months.
Autumn (September–October): Autumn offers another excellent window for hiking the Monte Subasio Loop. The intense heat of summer subsides, and temperatures become pleasantly mild, typically between 15°C and 25°C. The forests transform into a spectacular display of autumnal colours, with leaves turning shades of gold, red, and brown. The air is crisp, and the light is often golden and atmospheric. This season is also harvest time for olives and grapes, adding a cultural dimension to the experience.
Winter (November–March): Winter on Monte Subasio is generally mild compared to more northerly European regions, but it can be cold, damp, and occasionally experience frost or light snow at higher elevations. Daytime temperatures typically range from 5°C to 12°C. While the landscape takes on a stark, quiet beauty, the shorter daylight hours and potentially wet conditions make it a less ideal time for a full-day hike. However, for those prepared for cooler weather, a winter walk can offer a sense of solitude and introspection.
Weather Considerations: While the loop is generally considered moderate, weather can change rapidly, especially at higher altitudes. Always check the local weather forecast before setting out and be prepared for variations in temperature, wind, and precipitation, regardless of the season.
This itinerary is structured for a single day of hiking, focusing on a progression through varied landscapes and historical sites.
Early Morning (Approx. 8:00 AM): Departure from Assisi
Morning (Approx. 9:00 AM - 12:00 PM): Ascent through Olive Groves and Forests
Midday (Approx. 12:00 PM - 2:00 PM): Eremo delle Carceri and Summit Area
Afternoon (Approx. 2:00 PM - 5:00 PM): Descent and Return to Assisi
Late Afternoon (Approx. 5:00 PM onwards): Arrival back in Assisi
Important Notes:
The Monte Subasio Loop is a day hike, meaning no overnight accommodation is required. However, thorough preparation is key to a safe and enjoyable experience. Your primary base will be the historic town of Assisi, which offers a wide range of accommodation options, from charming bed and breakfasts and boutique hotels to more budget-friendly guesthouses. Assisi is well-connected by public transport. The nearest major airport is Perugia (PEG), approximately 20 kilometres away. From Perugia, you can take a bus or a taxi to Assisi. If arriving by train, the Assisi train station is located in the valley below the town, requiring a local bus or taxi to reach the historic centre. For those driving, parking is available in designated areas around Assisi, though access to the historic centre is restricted.
The trailhead for the Monte Subasio Loop is typically accessed from the vicinity of Vetta Pianello, a point on the mountain accessible by road from Assisi. Local buses may operate to certain points on the mountain, or a taxi can be hired for direct access to the trailhead. It is advisable to confirm local transport options and road conditions in advance, as some mountain roads can be narrow and winding.
This is a day hike requiring no overnight accommodation.
No specific permits are required to hike the Monte Subasio Loop. The trails are part of the public domain and are freely accessible to all. However, it is important to note that the Eremo delle Carceri, a significant site along the route, is a religious hermitage and operates under specific visiting hours and guidelines. Visitors are expected to maintain a respectful demeanour and adhere to any posted rules. Access to the hermitage itself may be restricted during certain times or for specific religious observances.
While no formal booking is necessary for the trail, it is always advisable to check local conditions and any advisories issued by the regional park authorities or the Assisi municipality, particularly regarding fire risk during dry summer months or any temporary trail closures due to maintenance or events.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Monte Subasio Loop (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Monte Subasio Loop, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Assisi and the surrounding Umbrian region offer a wealth of activities to complement your Monte Subasio hike:
Pre-Departure Checks:
Trail Hazards:
Emergency Preparedness:
Respect for Sites: The Eremo delle Carceri is a place of spiritual significance. Visitors should maintain a quiet and respectful demeanour, dress modestly, and adhere to any posted rules or visiting hours.
Eremo delle Carceri (Hermitage of the Prisons): This is the most significant point of interest along the Monte Subasio Loop. Perched high on the mountainside, this ancient hermitage is deeply connected to Saint Francis. It comprises a series of small chapels, cells, and a central church, all built into the natural caves and rock formations. The atmosphere is one of profound peace and spiritual resonance. Visitors can explore the cells where Saint Francis and his companions meditated and prayed, and the cave where he is said to have received divine visions. The surrounding natural beauty, with its ancient trees and secluded grottos, enhances the contemplative experience. Allow ample time to absorb the tranquility and historical significance of this sacred site.
Panoramic Viewpoints: Throughout the loop, particularly as you ascend and traverse the higher sections of Monte Subasio, numerous viewpoints offer breathtaking vistas. These spots provide sweeping panoramas of the Umbrian valley, stretching from Assisi and Spello to the distant Apennine Mountains. On a clear day, the views are expansive and awe-inspiring, offering a perfect opportunity for photography and quiet contemplation of the landscape.
Ancient Olive Groves and Vineyards: The lower slopes of Monte Subasio are dotted with centuries-old olive groves and vineyards. The gnarled trunks of the olive trees, some dating back hundreds of years, are a testament to the enduring agricultural heritage of the region. Walking through these cultivated landscapes offers a glimpse into the traditional way of life in Umbria and the deep connection between its people and the land.
Forest Trails: The higher sections of the loop wind through dense forests of oak and holm oak. These trails offer a different kind of beauty, with dappled sunlight filtering through the canopy, the scent of damp earth and pine needles, and the sounds of nature. These sections provide a sense of immersion in the wilder, more natural aspect of Monte Subasio.
Medieval Stone Structures: Along the route, you may encounter remnants of old stone farmhouses, shepherd's huts, and dry-stone walls. These structures are silent witnesses to the historical human presence on Monte Subasio, reflecting the agricultural practices and rural life of past centuries.
The Monte Subasio Loop traverses a landscape of immense natural and cultural value. As a visitor, you play a crucial role in preserving its beauty and integrity for future generations. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles ensures that the environment remains pristine and that the historical and spiritual significance of the area is respected.
Your responsibility as a walker:
By following these principles, you help to ensure that the Monte Subasio Loop remains a beautiful and inspiring place for everyone to experience.