Colombia — Santa Marta
Embark on the Lost City Trek (Ciudad Perdida) in Colombia, a 47km, 4-6 day expedition through the emerald-green ridges of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. This demanding route ascends through dense jungle and across rugged terrain, leading to an ancient Tayrona settlement predating Machu Picchu. Prepare for a profound immersion into South America's ancestral soul, traversing remote wilderness and steep slopes to reach this historic highland marvel.
Distance: 47.0 km
Elevation Gain: 1200 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 4-6 days
The Lost City Trek, known locally as the "Ciudad Perdida" or "Teyuna," is Colombia's most iconic multi-day wilderness journey. Carved into the steep, emerald-green ridges of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta—the world's highest coastal mountain range—this 47-kilometre round-trip expedition is far more than a physical challenge; it is a pilgrimage into the ancestral soul of South America. Built by the Tayrona people approximately 650 years before Machu Picchu, the "Lost City" remained hidden from the outside world for centuries, protected by dense tropical rainforest and the spiritual guardianship of the indigenous Kogi, Wiwa, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo communities. Today, the trek offers a rare opportunity to traverse primary jungle, cross rushing rivers, and ascend 1,200 ancient stone steps to reach a site that remains a living sacred space for the descendants of its original builders.
Unlike many famous archaeological treks, the Lost City cannot be visited independently. It requires an authorised guide, ensuring that the economic benefits support local communities and that the fragile ecosystem is managed with care. The journey takes walkers through a vertical landscape of extreme biodiversity, where the humidity is thick, the mud is legendary, and the rewards are profound. From the sun-drenched lower slopes of the Buritaca River valley to the mist-shrouded terraces of the upper mountains, the trek demands resilience and respect. It is a journey through time, where the modern world fades away, replaced by the rhythmic sounds of the jungle and the enduring presence of a civilisation that refused to be forgotten.
The Lost City Trek is widely regarded as one of the most rewarding yet physically demanding hikes in South America. While the total distance of 47 kilometres might seem modest over four days, the statistics do not account for the relentless "up and down" nature of the terrain or the debilitating effects of tropical humidity. The trail follows the Buritaca River valley, ascending from the dusty trailhead at El Mamey (also known as Machete Pelao) into the deep, humid heart of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. This mountain range is a unique geographical anomaly—an isolated massif separate from the Andes, rising from the Caribbean coast to snow-capped peaks over 5,700 metres high in just 42 kilometres.
The experience is defined by its sensory intensity. Walkers must navigate narrow, red-clay paths that transform into slippery slides during the frequent afternoon downpours. There are multiple river crossings where the water can reach waist-height, requiring careful footing on moss-covered stones. The vegetation is a lush tapestry of giant ferns, towering palms, and ancient hardwoods draped in lianas. Wildlife is abundant but often heard rather than seen; the roar of howler monkeys, the flash of a blue morpho butterfly, and the constant chorus of cicadas provide the soundtrack to the trek. The heat is a constant factor, with temperatures often exceeding 30 degrees Celsius and humidity levels frequently reaching 90 percent, making every ascent feel twice as steep as it appears on a map.
The climax of the journey is the arrival at Teyuna itself. After three days of trekking, walkers face the final challenge: 1,200 narrow, moss-slicked stone steps that climb steeply from the riverbed to the lower terraces. Emerging from the canopy onto the cleared archaeological site is a moment of pure wonder. The city consists of approximately 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, connected by a complex network of tiled roads and small circular plazas. Unlike the manicured ruins of Peru, Ciudad Perdida feels raw and integrated into the forest. It is not a museum; it is a site of ongoing spiritual significance where indigenous leaders (Mamos) still perform ceremonies to maintain the balance of the world. The view from the upper terraces, looking back across the valley as the morning mist clings to the ridges, is one of the most spectacular sights in the world.
The history of Ciudad Perdida is a narrative of resilience, loss, and rediscovery. The city was founded around 800 AD by the Tayrona civilisation, a sophisticated society known for their advanced engineering, gold-working, and complex social hierarchy. At its peak, Teyuna is estimated to have housed between 2,000 and 8,000 people. The Tayrona built their cities to harmonise with the mountain, using stone masonry that allowed for drainage in a region of extreme rainfall—a feat of engineering that has allowed the terraces to survive for over a millennium without collapsing.
When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, the Tayrona resisted fiercely. However, the combination of warfare and European diseases eventually forced the abandonment of the city. While the Spanish never officially "found" Teyuna, the survivors of the Tayrona civilisation retreated higher into the Sierra Nevada, evolving into the four indigenous groups that exist today: the Kogi, Wiwa, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo. For these groups, the city was never "lost"; they continued to visit the site for spiritual purposes, keeping its location a secret from "Little Brother" (the non-indigenous world) to protect its sanctity.
The "official" rediscovery occurred in 1972 when a group of local treasure hunters, known as guaqueros, followed a series of stone steps up from the Buritaca River. They found gold ornaments and ceramic urns in the forest-covered mounds. Word of the "Green Hell" (as the looters called it) spread, leading to a period of violent conflict between rival looting gangs. In 1975, the Colombian government intervened, and the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History (ICANH) began the formal process of excavation and restoration. The site was opened to tourism in the early 1980s, though it remained largely inaccessible for decades due to the presence of paramilitary groups and coca cultivation in the region. Since the mid-2000s, the area has been stabilised, and the trek is now a safe and highly regulated tourism destination.
Today, the cultural context of the trek is as important as the archaeology. The Sierra Nevada is considered by the indigenous inhabitants to be the "Heart of the World." They believe they are the "Elder Brothers" whose task is to protect the ecological and spiritual balance of the planet. Throughout the trek, walkers pass through indigenous villages and encounter Kogi or Wiwa people in their traditional white cotton clothing. Understanding their worldview—which emphasises the interconnectedness of all living things—is essential for anyone embarking on this journey. The trek is not just a walk through the woods; it is an entry into a territory where ancient laws and spiritual boundaries still dictate the rhythm of life.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta experiences a tropical climate with two distinct seasons, though the high altitude and dense forest create microclimates that can defy general forecasts. Understanding these seasons is crucial for physical preparation and managing expectations regarding views and trail conditions.
Dry Season (December to March): This is the most popular time to trek. The weather is generally more stable, with lower humidity and a significantly reduced chance of heavy rain. The trails are drier and less muddy, making the steep ascents and descents more manageable. River levels are lower, making crossings easier. However, this is also the busiest period, and the camps can be crowded. The heat can be intense during the day, as there is less cloud cover to provide shade.
Wet Season (April to November): During these months, the jungle is at its most vibrant and lush. The heat is slightly tempered by cloud cover, but the humidity is extreme. Afternoon downpours are almost guaranteed, often starting around 2:00 PM or 3:00 PM. These storms can be spectacular but turn the trail into a challenging quagmire of thick, red mud. River crossings become more adventurous, and the 1,200 steps to the city can be very slippery. The advantage of this season is the fewer number of trekkers and the dramatic atmosphere of the mist-filled valleys.
The September Closure: It is important to note that the Lost City Trek usually closes for the entire month of September. This is not due to weather, but at the request of the indigenous communities. They use this time to perform spiritual cleansing ceremonies (pagamentos) to heal the land from the impact of tourism and to allow the ecosystem to rest. Always check the specific dates before planning a trip in late August or early October.
Regardless of the season, walkers should be prepared for "jungle weather." This means being ready for sudden changes, high temperatures (25–32°C), and high humidity. Even in the dry season, a tropical storm can occur at any time. The nights in the higher camps (especially Camp 3) can be surprisingly cool, with temperatures dropping to around 15–18°C, requiring a light layer for sleeping.
Day 1: Santa Marta to El Mamey and Camp 1 (Adán or Alfredo)
Day 2: Camp 1 to Camp 3 (Paraíso Teyuna)
Day 3: Camp 3 to Ciudad Perdida and back to Camp 2
Day 4: Camp 2 to El Mamey and Santa Marta
Important Notes:
The Lost City Trek requires significant logistical coordination, but unlike the Milford Track or Inca Trail, you do not need to book months in advance. However, you MUST book through an authorised tour operator. There are only a handful of licensed agencies (such as Expotur, Wiwa Tours, Magic Tour, and Guna Maku). These agencies are part of a local association that sets a fixed price for the trek, so shopping around for a "deal" is generally fruitless—the price is the same across all reputable providers.
Physical preparation is essential. While you don't need to be an elite athlete, you should have a good level of cardiovascular fitness and be comfortable walking 6–8 hours a day in extreme heat and humidity. Training on hills or stairs is highly recommended. Logistically, Santa Marta is the base for the trek. Most trekkers stay in the historic centre or the nearby beach suburb of Rodadero. You can leave your main luggage at your hotel or the tour operator's office, carrying only a small 25–35 litre pack for the trek itself.
Accommodation on the Lost City Trek is basic and communal, designed to provide shelter in a challenging environment rather than luxury. The camps are managed by local families or indigenous communities and are shared by all the tour agencies.
Hut Facilities:
What Camps Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
The permit system for the Lost City Trek is unique because it is managed through the tour operators rather than a direct government booking portal. Your "permit" is essentially your booking with an authorised agency. These agencies work in coordination with the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History (ICANH) and the indigenous authorities of the Sierra Nevada.
How the system works:
Important Considerations:
Cost Breakdown: The fixed price (approx. 2,150,000 COP) covers everything. There are no hidden permit fees to pay at the trailhead. The only extra costs are for personal purchases at the camps (snacks/drinks) or if you choose to hire a mule to carry your pack (available at some sections for an additional fee paid directly to the muleteer).
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Lost City Trek Ciudad Perdida (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Lost City Trek Ciudad Perdida, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The region surrounding Santa Marta is one of the most diverse in Colombia. Consider these activities before or after your trek:
Health and Physical Safety:
Terrain Hazards: The trail is often narrow and perched on steep slopes. Mud makes the clay surfaces incredibly slick. Use trekking poles (highly recommended) to maintain balance. During river crossings, follow your guide's instructions exactly; the current can be stronger than it looks. The 1,200 steps to the city are uneven and often covered in moss—take your time and use the handrails where available.
Security: The region is now stable and safe for tourism. The presence of the Colombian military and the regulation of the tour agencies have eliminated the security issues of the past. However, always stay with your group and follow your guide's advice. Do not wander off the marked trails.
Vaccinations: Yellow Fever vaccination is officially required for entering national parks in Colombia, including the Sierra Nevada. Carry your "Yellow Card" with you. Consult a travel clinic regarding Hepatitis A, Typhoid, and Malaria prophylaxis (though Malaria risk is generally low on the standard trek route).
Travel insurance is mandatory for most tour operators. Ensure your policy covers "hiking up to 1,500m" and emergency medical evacuation from remote areas.
The Indigenous Village of Mutanyi: On Day 2, the trail passes through or near Mutanyi, a significant Kogi village. While you generally do not enter the private homes, seeing the traditional bohios (circular thatched huts) and the indigenous people going about their daily lives is a highlight. It is a reminder that the Sierra Nevada is a living cultural landscape, not just an archaeological site. Your guide will explain the significance of the white clothing (representing the purity of the snow) and the poporo (a ritual object used by men).
The Buritaca River Swimming Holes: Every camp is located near the Buritaca River. The natural pools and small waterfalls near Camp 1 and Camp 2 are the perfect remedy for "jungle fever." The water is cool, clear, and incredibly refreshing. Swimming in the river as the sun sets behind the jungle canopy is one of the most memorable experiences of the trek.
The "Map Stone": Located within the Lost City itself, this large boulder is carved with intricate lines that archaeologists believe may be a map of the Sierra Nevada and its various Tayrona settlements. It is a fascinating example of Tayrona cartography and cosmology.
The Upper Terraces (The Classic View): The most famous view of Ciudad Perdida is from the highest terraces. From here, you can see the symmetry of the circular plazas and the way the city follows the natural curve of the ridge. This is the best spot for photography, especially in the early morning when the mist is rising from the valley below.
Flora and Fauna: Keep an eye out for the "Walking Palm" (Socratea exorrhiza), which can slowly move its position to find better light. You may also see giant Ceiba trees, which were sacred to the Tayrona. Birdlife includes toucans, parrots, and the endemic Santa Marta Parakeet. If you are very lucky (and quiet), you might spot the tracks of a jaguar or ocelot in the mud, though the cats themselves are extremely elusive.
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is an extremely fragile ecosystem and a sacred site for the indigenous people. As "Little Brothers," it is our responsibility to minimise our impact on this ancestral land. The indigenous communities believe that every action has a spiritual consequence, and they ask that visitors enter their territory with a clean heart and a respectful attitude.
Your responsibility as a walker:
By following these principles, you help ensure that the Lost City remains a sacred and pristine place for the indigenous people and for future generations of trekkers. Walk with humility and leave only footprints.
