Colombia — Santa Marta
Uncover Colombia's Lost City on the challenging 46km Ciudad Perdida trek. This 4-6 day expedition winds through dense jungle and rugged terrain in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, revealing an ancient Tayrona citadel predating Machu Picchu. Traverse emerald rainforests, cross crystal-clear rivers, and ascend steep slopes to reach this historic archaeological marvel.
Distance: 46.0 km
Elevation Gain: 1200 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 4-6 days
Deep within the dense, emerald folds of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta—the world's highest coastal mountain range—lies Teyuna, better known as the Ciudad Perdida or "Lost City". Built by the Tayrona civilisation approximately 650 years before Machu Picchu, this archaeological marvel remained hidden from the outside world for centuries, reclaimed by the aggressive growth of the Colombian jungle. The Lost City Trek is not merely a hike; it is a profound journey through time, culture, and one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on the planet. Spanning 46 kilometres of challenging terrain, the route demands physical resilience and mental fortitude, rewarding walkers with a connection to the "Elder Brothers"—the indigenous Kogi, Wiwa, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo peoples who still guard these sacred lands. This is a pilgrimage into the heart of the "Heart of the World," where the humid air is thick with the scent of damp earth and the echoes of an ancient empire.
The Lost City Trek is widely regarded as one of South America’s most rewarding and physically demanding trekking experiences. Unlike many high-altitude Andean treks, the challenge here is not oxygen deprivation, but the relentless combination of tropical heat, extreme humidity, and the rugged verticality of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The trail is a masterclass in jungle navigation, weaving through primary rainforest, crossing the rushing turquoise waters of the Buritaca River multiple times, and ascending thousands of hand-hewn stone steps that have survived half a millennium of tropical erosion.
The journey begins in the small village of El Mamey (also known as Machete Pelao), where the transition from the Caribbean coast to the mountain foothills is immediate. From the outset, walkers are immersed in a landscape of staggering biological richness. The Sierra Nevada is an isolated massif, separate from the main Andes chain, which has allowed for the evolution of hundreds of endemic species. As you climb, the vegetation shifts from lowland tropical forest to lush cloud forest, where giant ferns and wax palms compete for sunlight beneath a canopy teeming with toucans, hummingbirds, and the elusive blue morpho butterfly.
What sets the Lost City Trek apart from other archaeological hikes is the living culture that surrounds it. The trail passes through the territories of the four indigenous groups who are the direct descendants of the Tayrona. You will encounter Kogi families in their traditional white tunics, their presence a silent reminder that you are a guest in a sacred space. The trek culminates in the ascent of 1,200 ancient stone steps to reach the central terraces of Teyuna. Standing on these circular platforms, overlooking the mist-shrouded peaks of the Sierra, provides a sense of isolation and historical weight that few other sites can match. It is a place of profound spiritual significance, where the modern world feels impossibly distant.
The history of Teyuna is a narrative of sophisticated engineering, tragic abandonment, and a modern-day resurrection. Built around 800 AD by the Tayrona people, the city served as a major political and religious centre for a network of villages scattered across the Sierra Nevada. The Tayrona were master architects of the mountains, developing a complex system of stone terraces, tiled roads, and drainage channels designed to prevent the city from being washed away by the region's torrential rains. At its peak, it is estimated that between 2,000 and 8,000 people lived in Teyuna, supported by advanced agricultural techniques on the surrounding slopes.
Following the Spanish conquest in the 16th century, the city was abandoned. While the indigenous peoples maintained knowledge of its existence, the site was swallowed by the jungle and remained unknown to the Western world for nearly 400 years. It was "rediscovered" in 1972 by a group of local treasure hunters, or huaqueros, who stumbled upon the stone steps while searching for gold. This discovery led to a period of looting and conflict between rival gangs of treasure hunters, until the Colombian government intervened in 1975, dispatching archaeologists to protect and restore the site.
Today, the site is managed by the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History (ICANH) in close collaboration with the indigenous authorities. For the Kogi, Wiwa, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo, Teyuna is not a "ruin" but a living temple. They refer to themselves as the "Elder Brothers" and view the rest of humanity as "Younger Brothers" who have lost their way and are damaging the Earth. The trek offers a rare opportunity to learn about their philosophy of Aluna—the cosmic consciousness that connects all living things. The preservation of the site is as much about protecting this spiritual heritage as it is about maintaining the physical stones.
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The climate of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is characterised by two distinct seasons: the dry season and the wet season. Because of its proximity to the equator and the Caribbean Sea, the weather is consistently hot and humid, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C during the day and dropping to a relatively cool 15–18°C at night in the higher camps.
Dry Season (December to March): This is the most popular time to undertake the trek. The trails are firmer, river crossings are shallower and safer, and there is a higher probability of clear views at the archaeological site. However, the heat can be more intense during these months, and the trail is at its busiest. Dust can also be a factor on the lower sections of the path.
Wet Season (April to November): During the rainy season, the jungle truly comes alive. The flora is at its most vibrant, and the waterfalls are spectacular. However, the trek becomes significantly more difficult. The trail turns into a thick, slippery mud that can slow progress and increase the risk of falls. Rain typically falls in heavy afternoon deluges, which can cause the Buritaca River to rise rapidly, occasionally delaying crossings. October is generally the wettest month.
The September Closure: It is crucial to note that the Lost City Trek usually closes for the entire month of September. This is at the request of the indigenous communities, who use this time to perform spiritual cleansing rituals and allow the environment to recover from the impact of tourism. Always check the specific dates for the current year before planning your trip.
Day 1: El Mamey to Camp 1 (Adán or Alfredo)
Day 2: Camp 1 to Camp 3 (Paraíso Teyuna)
Day 3: Camp 3 to The Lost City and return to Camp 2 (Mumake)
Day 4: Camp 2 to El Mamey
Important Notes:
The Lost City Trek is a mandatory guided experience. You cannot legally or safely attempt this walk without an authorised tour operator. These agencies work in partnership with the local communities and the government to manage the trail. Booking in advance is recommended, especially during the peak dry season (December–January), although it is often possible to join a group with a few days' notice in Santa Marta.
Physical preparation is essential. While the total distance of 46 km might seem modest over four days, the combination of steep gradients and 90% humidity makes it feel much longer. Cardiovascular fitness and leg strength are vital. It is highly recommended to spend at least two days in Santa Marta or the surrounding coastal area prior to the trek to acclimatise to the tropical heat. Santa Marta serves as the primary hub, offering a range of accommodation from hostels to boutique hotels, as well as storage facilities for the luggage you won't be taking on the trail.
Accommodation on the Lost City Trek consists of basic, communal jungle camps. These are rustic but well-organised, designed to provide shelter in a challenging environment.
Hut Facilities:
What Huts Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
Unlike many national parks where you must apply for a permit months in advance, the "permit" for the Lost City Trek is effectively your booking with an authorised tour operator. The Colombian government and the indigenous councils limit the number of people on the trail by controlling the number of licensed agencies and the size of the groups they can take.
Booking and Registration:
Community Contributions: A significant portion of your trek fee goes directly to the indigenous and peasant (campesino) communities that live along the route. This "social tax" supports local schools, healthcare, and infrastructure, ensuring that tourism provides a tangible benefit to the people whose land you are traversing. This system has been instrumental in moving the region away from the coca-growing economy of the past towards a sustainable tourism model.
Insurance: Most reputable agencies include a basic travel insurance policy in their price, covering accidents on the trail. However, this is often limited. It is strongly advised to have your own comprehensive international travel insurance that specifically covers trekking up to 1,500 metres and emergency medical evacuation.
Precisely traced GPX for the Lost City Trek, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Caribbean coast of Colombia offers a wealth of experiences to complement your trek:
Health and Physical Risks:
Environmental Hazards: The Buritaca River can be unpredictable. During heavy rain, it can transform from a gentle stream into a raging torrent within minutes. Always follow your guide's instructions regarding river crossings. The stone steps at the Lost City are often covered in moss and can be incredibly slippery; take your time and use the handrails where available. Snakes and spiders exist in the jungle, but they are generally shy; avoid sticking your hands into thick vegetation or hollow logs.
Security: The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta has a complex history involving various armed groups. However, in recent years, the trekking route has become very safe. The presence of the Colombian army and the vested interest of the local communities in tourism have created a secure corridor for hikers. Stick to the marked trail and always stay with your group.
Emergency Evacuation: In the event of a serious injury, evacuation is typically done by mule to the nearest road access, which can take several hours. In extreme life-threatening cases, helicopter evacuation may be possible, but this is weather-dependent and very expensive, highlighting the need for comprehensive insurance.
The 1,200 Steps: The final approach to Teyuna is an experience in itself. These narrow, moss-covered stone steps climb steeply from the riverbank. They are a testament to Tayrona engineering, designed to be easily defended and to withstand the tropical elements. Climbing them in the early morning mist is a highlight of the journey.
The Map of the Lost City: Near the entrance to the site lies a large, flat rock carved with intricate lines. Local guides and archaeologists believe this is a "map" of the city and the surrounding mountain ridges, used by the Tayrona to plan their urban expansion and agricultural terraces.
The Upper Terraces: The most iconic view of the Lost City is from the highest terraces. From here, you can see the symmetry of the circular foundations and the way the city was integrated into the ridge line. This is the site of the "Great Temple" and was likely the residence of the highest-ranking priests and leaders.
Indigenous Encounters: Throughout the trek, you will pass through or near indigenous settlements. While some are off-limits to tourists, others allow for brief visits. Observing the traditional way of life—weaving, the use of the poporo (a gourd used for chewing coca leaves), and the unique architecture of the round, thatched huts—is a profound cultural experience. Always ask for permission before taking photographs of indigenous people.
Natural Swimming Holes: The Buritaca River offers numerous deep, cool pools perfect for swimming. The pool at Camp 1 and the "Pozo de la Juventud" (Well of Youth) near the Lost City are particularly refreshing. The water is crystal clear and provides a much-needed respite from the jungle heat.
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a fragile ecosystem and a sacred ancestral land. As visitors, we have a moral and environmental obligation to minimise our impact. The "Elder Brothers" believe that every action in the physical world has a spiritual consequence, and they ask that we treat their home with the utmost respect.
Your responsibility as a walker:
By following these principles, you help ensure that the Lost City remains a pristine and sacred destination for future generations of both "Younger" and "Elder" brothers.
