Colombia — Manizales
Los Nevados Traverse: A demanding 55km, 4-5 day trek through Colombia's Los Nevados National Natural Park. This challenging route winds through diverse Andean ecosystems, from lush cloud forests and páramo grasslands to stark volcanic highlands surrounding snow-capped peaks. Expect rugged terrain, breathtaking panoramas, and a profound connection to this pristine wilderness.
Distance: 55.0 km
Elevation Gain: 3500 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 4-5 days
The Los Nevados Traverse is a challenging multi-day trek through the heart of Colombia's stunning Los Nevados National Natural Park. This route offers an unparalleled journey through diverse Andean ecosystems, from lush cloud forests and páramo grasslands to the stark, volcanic landscapes surrounding snow-capped peaks. It's a trek that tests endurance and rewards with breathtaking vistas, unique flora and fauna, and a profound connection to the high-altitude wilderness. The traverse is not a single, clearly defined path but rather a network of trails that can be combined to create an epic adventure, often culminating near the iconic Nevado del Ruiz volcano.
The Los Nevados Traverse is an expedition into one of Colombia's most ecologically significant and geologically active regions. This trek is renowned for its dramatic elevation changes and the stark contrast between its different ecological zones. You'll begin by ascending through vibrant cloud forests, alive with the calls of exotic birds and the scent of damp earth and orchids. As you climb, the vegetation transitions into the unique páramo, a high-altitude grassland ecosystem characterised by its spongy ground, hardy shrubs, and the iconic frailejones (Espeletia species) that dot the landscape like sentinels. These plants, with their fuzzy leaves, are masters of water conservation and are endemic to the northern Andes.
The true challenge and spectacle of the traverse lie in its proximity to the volcanic peaks. The route often takes you through landscapes shaped by volcanic activity, with opportunities to witness geothermal features like fumaroles and hot springs. The air at these altitudes can be thin, and the weather is notoriously unpredictable, capable of shifting from brilliant sunshine to freezing rain or even snow within hours. This requires careful preparation and a respect for the mountain environment.
The traverse is not a single, marked trail in the same way as some international Great Walks. Instead, it's a route pieced together using existing trails, often connecting various park entrances and refuges. This flexibility allows for customisation but also necessitates good navigation skills and a solid understanding of the park's geography. The reward for this effort is an immersion in a landscape that feels ancient and raw, a place where the power of nature is palpable, from the steaming vents of Nevado del Ruiz to the vast, windswept páramo stretching towards the horizon.
The region encompassing Los Nevados National Natural Park has a rich history deeply intertwined with indigenous cultures and the Spanish colonial era. For centuries, indigenous communities, including the indigenous peoples of the Quimbaya and Calima cultures, inhabited these fertile valleys and utilized the high-altitude páramo for resources and spiritual practices. The volcanoes, particularly Nevado del Ruiz, were seen as powerful deities or spirits, influencing their cosmology and way of life.
During the Spanish colonial period, the region became important for agriculture and livestock, with large haciendas established in the lower valleys. The high-altitude páramo, however, remained largely wild and challenging to access. Explorers and geologists began to study the volcanic activity and unique ecosystems of the area in the 19th and 20th centuries. The potential for mining and the unique biodiversity also drew scientific interest.
The establishment of Los Nevados National Natural Park in 1970 was a crucial step in preserving this extraordinary landscape. The park was created to protect its unique páramo ecosystems, its glaciers, its volcanic features, and its rich biodiversity, including numerous endemic species. The park's designation also aimed to safeguard the water resources that originate from its high-altitude wetlands, which are vital for the surrounding regions and cities like Manizales and Pereira.
The Los Nevados Traverse, while not a historical pilgrimage route in the same vein as some ancient trails, follows paths that have been used by local farmers, herders, and explorers for generations. It offers a contemporary way to experience the grandeur and ecological significance of this protected area, connecting modern trekkers to the enduring power of the Andean landscape.
The Los Nevados region experiences a tropical highland climate, meaning temperatures are relatively stable year-round but precipitation patterns are distinct. The park is generally accessible throughout the year, but certain periods offer more favourable conditions for trekking.
Dry Season (December to February): This is considered the best time to undertake the Los Nevados Traverse. The skies are typically clearer, offering excellent visibility of the volcanic peaks and surrounding landscapes. Rainfall is significantly reduced, making the trails less muddy and the páramo more stable. Temperatures can still be cold, especially at higher elevations, but the risk of prolonged downpours or heavy fog is lower. This is also the peak tourist season, so expect more visitors at popular trailheads and refuges.
Wet Season (March to May and September to November): These periods bring increased rainfall, often in the form of heavy afternoon thunderstorms. The páramo can become waterlogged and muddy, and river crossings can be more challenging. Fog is also more prevalent, significantly reducing visibility and potentially obscuring trails. While still possible to trek, it requires greater caution, more robust gear, and a higher tolerance for challenging conditions. The landscape, however, can be incredibly vibrant and lush during these months.
"Páramo" Weather: Regardless of the season, the weather in the páramo is highly unpredictable. Temperatures can drop below freezing at night, and even during the day, wind chill can make it feel much colder. Sudden storms, hail, and even snow flurries can occur at any time of year, especially at altitudes above 3,500 metres. It is crucial to be prepared for all conditions, regardless of the forecast.
Volcanic Activity: Nevado del Ruiz is an active volcano. While major eruptions are rare, seismic activity and gas emissions are monitored. Park authorities provide updates on any significant volcanic activity that might affect access or safety. Always check the latest park advisories before and during your trek.
Day 1: Termales del Ruiz to Refugio La Argentina
Day 2: Refugio La Argentina to Refugio El Cisne
Day 3: Refugio El Cisne to Sector Nevado del Ruiz (or nearby campsite)
Day 4: Sector Nevado del Ruiz to Manizales (via transport)
Important Notes:
The Los Nevados Traverse demands thorough preparation due to its challenging nature, high altitudes, and remote locations. The closest major city and logistical hub is Manizales. It's essential to fly into Aeropuerto La Nubia (MZL) in Manizales. From Manizales, you can arrange transport to the park's various entry points, such as Termales del Ruiz. This often involves hiring a 4x4 vehicle or coordinating with local tour operators, as public transport may be limited to the main roads.
Acclimatisation: Given the significant altitudes (often exceeding 4,000 metres), a crucial part of preparation is acclimatisation. It is highly recommended to spend at least 1-2 days in Manizales (altitude approx. 2,150 m) or a nearby higher town before starting the trek. Consider a day hike to a slightly higher elevation on your first day in the region to help your body adjust.
Guides and Porters: While it's possible to trek independently, hiring a local guide is strongly advised. Guides possess invaluable knowledge of the terrain, weather patterns, navigation, and local flora and fauna. They can also assist with emergency situations and liaise with park authorities. Porters can be hired to carry heavier gear, significantly reducing the physical strain and allowing you to focus more on the experience.
Logistics: Arrange your transport to and from the park well in advance. This includes getting to the trailhead and arranging your pickup at the end of the trek. Confirm the operational status of refuges and campsites, as facilities can vary. Ensure you have a reliable communication method, such as a satellite phone, as mobile signal is non-existent in most of the park.
Accommodation within Los Nevados National Natural Park primarily consists of mountain refuges (refugios) and designated camping areas. These facilities are basic and designed to provide shelter in a harsh environment.
Refugios:
Campsites:
Note: The exact names and availability of refuges can change. It's crucial to confirm current options and booking procedures with park authorities or a reputable local tour operator.
Access to Los Nevados National Natural Park requires permits and adherence to park regulations. It is essential to verify the latest permit requirements and fees directly with Parques Nacionales Naturales de Colombia (PNN) or through your tour operator.
Park Entrance Fees: There are typically entrance fees for accessing the national park. These fees contribute to the park's conservation efforts. The cost can vary depending on the duration of your stay and the specific entry points used.
Registration: Visitors are often required to register their trek at the park's visitor centres or designated entry points. This helps park authorities monitor visitor numbers and manage safety. You may need to provide details of your itinerary and emergency contacts.
Guides: While not always strictly mandatory for all areas, hiring a certified local guide is highly recommended and may be a requirement for certain routes or for accessing sensitive areas, especially those near active volcanic zones. Guides are often registered with the park authorities.
Volcanic Activity Advisories: Nevado del Ruiz is an active volcano. Park authorities monitor its activity closely. Depending on the current alert level, access to certain areas, particularly around the crater, may be restricted or prohibited. Always check the latest advisories from the Servicio Geológico Colombiano (Colombian Geological Service) and park officials before and during your trek.
Booking Accommodation: As mentioned in the planning section, if you intend to stay in park refuges, these often require advance booking. This is separate from the park entrance permit itself.
How to Obtain Permits:
It is crucial to confirm the exact process and costs well in advance of your trip, as regulations can change.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Los Nevados Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Los Nevados Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Beyond the multi-day traverse, the Los Nevados region offers a variety of activities for nature enthusiasts and adventurers:
Altitude Sickness (Soroche): This is the most significant risk on the Los Nevados Traverse. Symptoms include headache, nausea, dizziness, and fatigue. Prevention is key: ascend slowly, acclimatise properly in Manizales or higher towns, stay hydrated, avoid alcohol and heavy meals, and consider medication like Diamox (consult your doctor). If symptoms worsen, descend immediately.
Weather: The páramo weather is extremely volatile. Be prepared for rapid changes, including strong winds, heavy rain, hail, fog, and freezing temperatures. Hypothermia is a real danger. Always carry and wear appropriate layers, including waterproof and windproof outer shells.
Volcanic Activity: Nevado del Ruiz is an active volcano. Stay informed about its current alert level and any restrictions issued by park authorities or the Colombian Geological Service. Never approach the crater or fumarole areas without explicit permission and guidance from park officials or your guide.
Navigation: Trails can be poorly marked or disappear in fog or snow. A reliable GPS device or offline mapping app, along with a physical map and compass, is essential. Hiring a local guide is the safest option for navigation.
Water Crossings: Rivers and streams can become swollen and dangerous, especially during the wet season or after heavy rain. Assess crossings carefully and never attempt to cross if the water appears too fast or deep.
Geothermal Areas: Be cautious around hot springs and fumaroles. The ground can be unstable, and steam vents can cause severe burns. Stick to marked paths and follow your guide's instructions.
Communication: Mobile phone reception is virtually non-existent within the park. Carry a satellite phone or personal locator beacon (PLB) for emergencies.
Physical Fitness: The trek is physically demanding due to the altitude, distance, and elevation changes. Ensure you are in excellent physical condition and have trained adequately.
Emergency Contacts: Have a list of emergency contacts, including park authorities, your tour operator, and local emergency services.
Laguna del Otún: A stunning high-altitude lake, often referred to as the "Pearl of Los Nevados." It's a popular destination for its scenic beauty and is known for its trout population. A visit here can be incorporated into longer treks or as a day trip from a nearby refuge. The surrounding landscape is classic páramo, with rolling hills and distant volcanic peaks.
Nevado del Ruiz Crater: While direct access to the active crater may be restricted due to volcanic activity, viewpoints offering glimpses of the volcanic complex are significant points of interest. Observing the steaming vents and the stark, mineral-rich terrain provides a visceral connection to the earth's geological power. Always follow park guidelines regarding proximity to volcanic features.
Frailejones Forests: The páramo is dominated by these unique plants (genus Espeletia). Their fuzzy, silver-green leaves are adapted to capture moisture from the air and protect them from harsh conditions. Walking through a dense forest of frailejones, especially in the mist, is a surreal and unforgettable experience. They are a key indicator of a healthy páramo ecosystem.
Geothermal Activity: Beyond the main hot springs, the volcanic nature of the region is evident in numerous smaller fumaroles and hot spots. These areas, often marked by discoloured earth and escaping steam, are fascinating to observe from a safe distance, showcasing the volcanic forces at play beneath the surface.
Glacial Lakes: Scattered throughout the higher reaches of the park are small glacial lakes, often with intensely blue or green waters. These are remnants of past glaciation and add to the dramatic, alpine character of the landscape. They serve as important water sources for the páramo ecosystem.
The Los Nevados National Natural Park is a fragile ecosystem, home to unique flora and fauna adapted to extreme conditions. Practising Leave No Trace principles is paramount to preserving this environment for future generations and ensuring the safety of all visitors.
Your actions have a direct impact on the preservation of this extraordinary Andean wilderness. Tread lightly and responsibly.
