Iceland — Landmannalaugar
Iceland's Laugavegur Trail (Day Section) offers a moderate 12km walk through a geothermal wonderland. This 4-6 hour stretch from Landmannalaugar towards the Hrafntinnusker plateau showcases Iceland's raw geological power. Traverse volcanic highlands and witness diverse, pristine landscapes on this unforgettable day hike.
Distance: 12.0 km
Elevation Gain: 400 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 4-6 hours
The Laugavegur Trail is widely considered one of the most spectacular hiking routes on the planet, typically undertaken as a four-day trek from the geothermal wonderland of Landmannalaugar to the lush valley of Þórsmörk. However, for those with limited time or those seeking a concentrated dose of Iceland's raw geological power, the opening day section—stretching from the Landmannalaugar base camp toward the Hrafntinnusker plateau—offers an unparalleled day-walking experience. This 12-kilometre return journey (or loop) traverses a landscape that feels fundamentally primordial: obsidian lava fields, steaming fumaroles, and the famous multi-coloured rhyolite mountains that glow in shades of ochre, pink, and cobalt. Located in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve within the southern Highlands, this trail is a masterclass in volcanic diversity, providing hikers with a sensory immersion into the "Land of Fire and Ice" without the logistical complexity of a multi-day expedition.
The Laugavegur Trail, which translates literally to "The Road of the Laug" (The Hot Spring Road), begins its journey in the heart of the Torfajökull volcanic system. This specific day section captures the essence of the Icelandic Highlands, moving from the valley floor at 600 metres elevation up toward the high-altitude plateau. The landscape is defined by its lack of vegetation and its abundance of mineral wealth. Unlike the green, mossy coastal regions of Iceland, the Laugavegur day section is a world of stone and steam. The rhyolite mountains here are a geological anomaly, created by silica-rich lava that cools slowly, allowing for a spectrum of colours—yellows from sulphur, reds from iron oxidation, and greens from copper—that appear almost painted onto the slopes.
The walk begins by navigating the Laugahraun lava field, a jagged expanse of obsidian and basalt that formed during an eruption in 1477. From here, the trail ascends steadily toward Brennisteinsalda, often cited as the most colourful mountain in Iceland. As you climb, the air becomes thick with the scent of sulphur, and the ground beneath your boots begins to hiss and steam. This is one of the most active geothermal areas in the country, where boiling mud pots and roaring steam vents (fumaroles) serve as a constant reminder of the tectonic forces at play beneath the surface. The transition from the dark, glassy lava of the valley to the bright, ethereal heights of the plateau provides a visual rhythm that keeps even the most seasoned hikers in a state of constant awe.
While the full Laugavegur trek continues for another 43 kilometres, this day section provides a natural turnaround point at the Stórihver geothermal area. Here, hikers can witness massive steam columns rising against the backdrop of the Hrafntinnusker ice caps before descending back to the warmth of the Landmannalaugar natural hot springs. It is a walk that demands physical effort—particularly during the steep ascent of the rhyolite slopes—but rewards the traveller with views that are frequently described as "otherworldly" or "extra-terrestrial." In the Highlands, the scale of the landscape is humbling, and the clarity of the air allows for vistas that stretch across the black sands of the interior toward distant glaciers like Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull.
The history of the Laugavegur Trail is inextricably linked to the history of Icelandic exploration and the nation's relationship with its volatile interior. For centuries, the Icelandic Highlands were considered a place of outlaws, spirits, and extreme danger. Known as the "Óbyggðir" (the unbuilt or uninhabited places), the interior was rarely traversed except by those seeking to cross the country quickly or by shepherds driving sheep to summer pastures. Landmannalaugar itself, however, has long been known to locals for its "Laug" (hot springs), which provided a rare sanctuary of warmth in an otherwise inhospitable environment. Travellers would stop here to bathe and rest their horses before attempting the treacherous mountain passes.
The modern trail as we know it was formally established and marked by the Ferðafélag Íslands (Icelandic Touring Association, or FÍ) in 1979. Before this, the route was a series of disconnected sheep paths and cairn-marked trails used by local farmers. The vision of the FÍ was to create a world-class hiking route that showcased the diversity of the Icelandic landscape. Since its inception, the trail has grown from a niche local secret to an international bucket-list destination. Despite its popularity, the trail remains a symbol of Icelandic conservation efforts; the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, established in 1979, protects the fragile rhyolite formations and geothermal features from industrial development and excessive tourism impact.
Culturally, the Laugavegur holds a special place in the Icelandic psyche. It represents the "Highland Summer"—a brief, intense window of light and life in a country that spends much of the year in darkness. The names of the landmarks along the trail reflect this heritage: Brennisteinsalda means "Sulphur Wave," Laugahraun means "Hot Spring Lava," and Hrafntinnusker means "Obsidian Skerry." These names are descriptive and functional, rooted in the Old Norse language that has remained largely unchanged for a millennium. Walking this trail is not just a physical exercise; it is a walk through the geological and linguistic history of the North Atlantic.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Laugavegur day section is only accessible during a very narrow window, typically from late June to early September. This is dictated by the opening of the "F-roads" (mountain roads), which are closed throughout the winter and spring due to heavy snow and impassable river crossings. Even in the height of summer, the weather in the Highlands is notoriously fickle and can change from bright sunshine to a blinding blizzard within minutes. Hikers must be prepared for "four seasons in one day," a cliché that holds literal truth in Iceland.
Early Season (Late June to mid-July): During this period, large sections of the trail, particularly the higher elevations toward Hrafntinnusker, may still be covered in snow. This adds a layer of difficulty to the navigation and requires sturdy, waterproof footwear. However, the contrast between the white snow and the vibrant rhyolite mountains is exceptionally photogenic. The "Midnight Sun" provides nearly 24 hours of daylight, allowing for late-evening hikes in ethereal, golden light.
High Summer (Late July to August): This is the most stable period for weather, though "stable" is a relative term. Temperatures typically range from 5°C to 15°C, but wind chill can make it feel significantly colder. This is when the geothermal activity is most visible, as the warm steam contrasts with the cool mountain air. The trail is at its busiest during this time, but the vastness of the landscape ensures that it rarely feels crowded once you move a few kilometres away from the Landmannalaugar base camp.
Late Season (September): As September approaches, the days begin to shorten, and the first frosts return to the Highlands. The mosses turn a deep, rusty red, and the crowds thin out significantly. While the weather becomes more unpredictable and the risk of autumn storms increases, the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) begins to emerge for those staying overnight at the Landmannalaugar hut. By mid-September, the F-roads usually close, and the Highlands return to their winter slumber, accessible only by specialised "Super Jeeps."
Waypoint 1: Landmannalaugar Trailhead to Laugahraun Lava Field
Waypoint 2: Laugahraun to Vondugil Canyon and Brennisteinsalda Base
Waypoint 3: Brennisteinsalda Ascent to the Plateau
Waypoint 4: Plateau to Stórihver Geothermal Area (Turnaround Point)
Waypoint 5: Return Journey to Landmannalaugar
Important Notes:
Planning a day hike in the Icelandic Highlands requires more logistical foresight than a standard coastal walk. The primary challenge is transport. Landmannalaugar is located in the interior and is only accessible via "F-roads" (mountain roads). If you are driving, you MUST have a 4x4 vehicle; rental companies strictly prohibit 2WD cars on these roads, and insurance will be voided if you attempt it. The drive from Reykjavik takes approximately 3 to 4 hours, involving gravel roads and at least one significant river crossing just before the Landmannalaugar camp. Many visitors choose to park before the river and use the pedestrian bridge to avoid the risk of drowning their vehicle's engine.
Alternatively, several bus companies (such as Reykjavik Excursions and Trex) operate "Highland Pass" services from the BSÍ terminal in Reykjavik. These specially modified buses are the safest and most stress-free way to reach the trailhead. It is highly recommended to book these tickets at least several weeks in advance during the July–August peak. Fitness-wise, hikers should be comfortable with 400 metres of elevation gain over uneven, sometimes loose terrain. There are no shops or services once you leave the base camp, so self-sufficiency is key.
As this is a day hike, overnight accommodation on the trail itself is not required. However, most hikers choose to stay at the Landmannalaugar base camp either the night before or the night after their walk to maximise their time in the area.
Landmannalaugar Hut (Ferðafélag Íslands):
Landmannalaugar Campsite:
Mountain Mall:
One of the great appeals of the Laugavegur day section is that no formal hiking permit is required for individual day walkers. The trail is located within a public Nature Reserve, and access is free. However, there are several logistical "permits" and fees that you must be aware of to ensure a smooth trip.
Parking and Service Fees:
Bus Transport:
Safety Registration:
Group Regulations:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Laugavegur Trail Day Section (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Laugavegur Trail Day Section, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Landmannalaugar is a hub for Highland adventure. If you have extra time or energy, consider these nearby options:
The Icelandic Weather: The single greatest danger on the Laugavegur Trail is the weather. It is not uncommon for hikers to be caught in gale-force winds or dense fog that reduces visibility to less than five metres. If the forecast looks poor, do not hesitate to cancel or postpone your hike. The wardens at Landmannalaugar have access to the most accurate mountain forecasts; always consult them before departing.
Navigation and Fog: The plateau section toward Hrafntinnusker is notorious for "whiteouts"—not just from snow, but from low-hanging clouds. In these conditions, it is incredibly easy to lose the trail markers. If you lose the trail, stop immediately. Do not wander. Use your GPS to retrace your steps to the last known marker. If you are truly lost, seek shelter and wait for visibility to improve or for help to arrive.
Geothermal Hazards: The steaming vents and mud pots are spectacular but dangerous. The ground around these areas can be unstable and thin; stepping off the marked path can result in breaking through the crust into boiling water or mud. Always stay on the designated trails in geothermal zones. The steam itself can also contain high concentrations of hydrogen sulphide, which is toxic in large amounts; avoid standing directly in thick steam clouds for extended periods.
River Crossings: While this specific day section does not require any major river crossings on foot, the drive to the trailhead does. Never attempt to cross a river in a vehicle unless you are certain of its depth and your vehicle's capabilities. Watch others cross first, and always drive slowly in low gear. If in doubt, park before the river and walk across the pedestrian bridge.
Emergency Services: In an emergency, dial 112. Note that mobile signal is patchy in the Highlands. Carrying a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) or a satellite communication device (like a Garmin inReach) is highly recommended for solo hikers or those heading deep into the interior.
The Obsidian Fields of Laugahraun: As you begin your hike, take a moment to examine the rocks. You will find large chunks of obsidian—natural volcanic glass. It is jet black, shiny, and incredibly sharp. In ancient times, this was used for making tools and arrowheads. Please remember that it is strictly forbidden to take any rocks or minerals from the Nature Reserve.
Brennisteinsalda Summit: While the main Laugavegur trail skirts the shoulder of this mountain, a small detour leads to the summit. The extra 150 metres of climbing is worth it for the perspective it gives you on the "Sulphur Wave" and the surrounding lava flows. The colours here are at their most intense, especially after a light rain which makes the minerals "pop."
Grænagil (Green Gorge): On your return journey, choosing the path through Grænagil offers a completely different aesthetic. The canyon walls are made of a unique green rhyolite, and the valley floor is often lush with moss, providing a rare splash of green in the otherwise monochromatic volcanic landscape. It is a sheltered, quiet alternative to the main trail.
Stórihver: This is more than just a turnaround point; it is a geological marvel. The name means "Large Hot Spring," and it marks the boundary between the colourful rhyolite mountains and the dark, obsidian-rich plateau of Hrafntinnusker. The contrast between the boiling water and the nearby snowbanks is a perfect distillation of the Icelandic landscape.
The Icelandic Highlands are an incredibly fragile ecosystem. Because of the short growing season and the harsh climate, damage to the land can take decades, or even centuries, to heal. As a visitor, you have a profound responsibility to protect this wilderness.
Key Principles for the Laugavegur:
