Iceland — Reykjavik
Iceland's Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls Trek is an 82km, 6-8 day challenging wilderness walk through the southern highlands. Traverse a landscape of impossible contrasts, from Landmannalaugar's geothermal wonders to Þórsmörk's lush forests, then ascend the dramatic Fimmvörðuháls pass to Skógafoss waterfall. Expect neon-green moss against pitch-black volcanic terrain, vast panoramas, and rugged highland wilderness.
Distance: 82.0 km
Elevation Gain: 3200 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 6-8 days
The Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trek is widely considered one of the most spectacular wilderness journeys on Earth. Spanning 82 kilometres through the heart of Iceland’s southern highlands, this route connects the geothermal wonderland of Landmannalaugar to the lush coastal forest of Þórsmörk, before ascending over the dramatic mountain pass of Fimmvörðuháls to finish at the iconic Skógafoss waterfall. This is a landscape of impossible contrasts: neon-green moss set against pitch-black volcanic sands, steaming geothermal vents adjacent to ancient blue glaciers, and multicoloured rhyolite mountains that look more like a painting than a geological reality. The trek is a journey through the very forces that continue to shape our planet, traversing terrain so otherworldly that it has long served as a training ground for astronauts and a backdrop for epic sagas.
The Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trek is not merely a hike; it is a traverse of a living, breathing geological masterpiece. The route is traditionally divided into two distinct sections. The first, the Laugavegur (meaning "The Hot Spring Route"), covers 55 kilometres from Landmannalaugar to the valley of Þórsmörk. The second, the Fimmvörðuháls, adds a further 27 kilometres, climbing between two massive glaciers—Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull—before descending the "Waterfall Way" to the Atlantic coast. Together, they form a continuous line through the most diverse scenery Iceland has to offer.
The journey begins in Landmannalaugar, a geothermal hub where the mountains are composed of rhyolite, a volcanic rock that creates shades of ochre, pink, yellow, and blue. As you move south, the landscape shifts dramatically into the obsidian fields of Hrafntinnusker, where shards of black volcanic glass litter the trail. From there, the path drops into the verdant, lake-filled basin of Álftavatn, providing a sharp contrast to the high-alpine desolation of the first day. The middle section of the trek crosses the Mælifellssandur, a vast black sand desert where the scale of the Icelandic interior becomes truly apparent. Here, the only splashes of colour are the vibrant green "hats" of moss-covered volcanic cones rising from the dark plains.
The transition into Þórsmörk (Thor’s Forest) marks a shift into a sub-arctic woodland of twisted birch and deep canyons. For many, this is the end of the journey, but for those continuing over Fimmvörðuháls, the greatest challenge lies ahead. This final section involves a steep ascent into the "Pass of the Five Cairns," crossing the very site of the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption. Walkers pass between two brand-new volcanic craters, Magni and Móði, where the ground remains warm to the touch. The final descent follows the Skógá River, passing no fewer than 26 significant waterfalls before reaching the 60-metre drop of Skógafoss. This trek demands respect for the elements, as weather in the highlands is notoriously fickle, but for those who prepare, it offers a profound connection to the raw power of nature.
The history of the Laugavegur trail is inextricably linked to the Icelandic spirit of exploration and the necessity of travel through the rugged interior. For centuries, the highlands were considered the domain of outlaws, spirits, and "hidden people" (huldufólk). Landmannalaugar itself has been used since the Middle Ages as a seasonal grazing area for sheep, with farmers driving their flocks into the mountains each summer. The name Landmannalaugar translates to "The People's Pools," referring to the natural geothermal springs that have provided weary travellers with warmth and respite for over a millennium.
The modern trail was formalised by the Ferðafélag Íslands (Icelandic Touring Association), founded in 1927. The association built the first huts along the route to encourage Icelanders to explore their own wilderness. The Laugavegur quickly became the country's most famous hiking route, symbolising the national love for the outdoors. The Fimmvörðuháls section has its own storied history, traditionally used as a mountain pass connecting the farms of the south coast to the inland valleys. It gained international fame in 2010 when a flank eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano occurred directly on the trail, creating two new mountains and a massive lava field that hikers now walk across.
Culturally, the trail is steeped in Icelandic folklore. Every peak and valley has a name and often a story attached to it. The valley of Þórsmörk is named after the Norse god Thor, who is said to have struck the earth with his hammer to create the dramatic landscape. Walking this route is as much a journey through Icelandic mythology as it is through its geology. The preservation of this trail is a point of national pride, and the balance between its increasing popularity and the protection of its fragile ecosystem remains a central theme in its modern management.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for trekking the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls is remarkably short, typically lasting from late June to mid-September. Outside of this period, the highland roads (F-roads) are closed to all traffic, and the trail is buried under deep snow, making it the exclusive domain of experienced winter mountaineers. Even during the peak summer months, the weather is the primary factor in any trekker's success or failure.
Late June to July: This is the time of the "Midnight Sun," where 24-hour daylight allows for maximum flexibility in walking hours. However, early season hikers must contend with significant snow patches, particularly on the high plateau of Hrafntinnusker. River levels are often at their highest during this period due to snowmelt, making crossings more challenging. The rhyolite mountains are at their most vibrant, often still streaked with white snow, creating a stunning visual contrast.
August: Generally considered the most stable month for weather, though "stable" in Iceland is a relative term. The snow has mostly melted from the trail, and the moss is at its most brilliant green. This is also the busiest time on the trail, requiring hut bookings to be made many months in advance. The berries in Þórsmörk begin to ripen, and the nights start to darken, occasionally offering the first glimpses of the Northern Lights toward the end of the month.
September: The crowds thin out, and the autumn colours (haustlitir) transform the birch forests of Þórsmörk into a sea of gold and red. The weather becomes more unpredictable, with a higher frequency of Atlantic storms bringing heavy rain and high winds. By mid-September, the first winter snows often begin to fall on the higher passes, and the mountain huts begin to close for the season. This is a beautiful but high-risk time to trek.
Weather Reality: It is common to experience four seasons in a single day. Horizontal rain, dense fog that reduces visibility to five metres, and gale-force winds are all possible even in July. Hypothermia is a genuine risk for those without proper waterproof gear. Always check the forecast daily at the huts or via the Safetravel app.
Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn
Day 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur (Botnar)
Day 4: Emstrur to Þórsmörk
Day 5: Þórsmörk to Fimmvörðuháls
Day 6: Fimmvörðuháls to Skógar
Important Notes:
The Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trek requires significant logistical planning. Unlike many European trails, there are no villages or shops along the route. You must carry all your food for the duration of the trek. Fitness is paramount; while the daily distances are moderate, the terrain is rugged, and carrying a full multi-day pack (typically 12–18 kg) over steep passes and through soft sand is physically demanding. You should be comfortable walking 6–8 hours a day for several consecutive days.
Reykjavik serves as the primary base for all trekkers. Most hikers spend a night in the capital before taking a "Highland Bus" to Landmannalaugar. These specialised 4x4 buses are the only reliable way to reach the trailhead, as they are designed to ford deep rivers. Companies like Reykjavik Excursions and Trex operate daily services during the summer. If you plan to drive yourself, you must have a 4x4 vehicle and be experienced in river crossings; however, most trekkers prefer the bus to avoid the logistical headache of a one-way hike.
Accommodation on the trail consists of mountain huts and designated campsites. The huts are managed by Ferðafélag Íslands (FI) and Útivist. They are basic but provide essential shelter from the harsh Icelandic elements.
Hut Facilities:
What Huts Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
There is no "permit" required to walk the Laugavegur or Fimmvörðuháls in the traditional sense. Access to the national parks and the trail itself is free. However, the "permit" in practice is your hut booking. Because wild camping is strictly prohibited within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve and the national parks, you must stay at the designated hut sites.
Booking Strategy:
Costs:
Environmental Regulations: While no paper permit is issued, hikers are legally required to stay on marked trails. The volcanic soil and moss are extremely fragile; a single footprint off-trail can cause erosion that lasts for decades. Wardens have the authority to fine hikers who violate these rules.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Laugavegur Fimmvorduhals Trek (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Laugavegur Fimmvorduhals Trek, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Iceland’s South Coast and Highlands offer numerous ways to extend your adventure:
River Crossings: This is the most dangerous aspect of the trek. Glacial rivers can change depth and speed within hours. Always cross at the widest point (where the water is shallowest), unbuckle your backpack's waist strap so you can jettison it if you fall, and face upstream while leaning into the current. If the water is above your knees, do not cross alone; wait for others or wait for the water level to drop (usually in the early morning).
Weather and Navigation: The section between Landmannalaugar and Álftavatn is notorious for sudden, dense fog. The trail is marked with wooden stakes, but in whiteout conditions, these can be impossible to see. A GPS with the route pre-loaded is a mandatory safety item. If the weather turns violent, stay at the nearest hut; do not attempt to "push through" a highland storm.
Hypothermia: Even in July, temperatures can hover near 0°C. Combined with wind and rain, hypothermia can set in quickly. Wear wool or synthetic layers—never cotton, which loses all insulating properties when wet. Always keep a set of dry clothes in a waterproof bag at the bottom of your pack.
Emergency Services: Dial 112 for emergencies. However, response times in the highlands can be long. It is highly recommended to log your travel plan on Safetravel.is so that authorities know your expected location and finish date.
Bláhnúkur (Blue Peak): A 2-hour round trip from Landmannalaugar. This peak offers the best 360-degree view of the rhyolite mountains. The trail is steep but the sight of the multicoloured ridges from above is unparalleled.
Brennisteinsalda (Sulphur Wave): Often visited on Day 1, this is arguably the most colourful mountain in Iceland. It features steaming vents at its base and vibrant streaks of red, green, and yellow rock.
Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon: A short detour from the Emstrur hut leads to the edge of this 200-metre-deep canyon. The sheer walls and the glacial river below provide a staggering sense of scale.
Magni and Móði Craters: Located on the Fimmvörðuháls pass, these two craters were formed in 2010. The lava here is still cooling, and in some places, you can see steam rising from the rocks. It is one of the few places on Earth where you can walk on such "young" land.
Valahnúkur: A short, steep hike from the Þórsmörk huts that offers a panoramic view of the three glaciers (Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull) and the braided river systems of the valley floor.
Iceland’s wilderness is exceptionally fragile. The combination of volcanic ash and slow-growing moss means that human impact can remain visible for a lifetime. As a trekker, you are a guest in this delicate ecosystem.
Core Principles:
