Australia — Alice Springs
Australia's Larapinta Trail: a 223km desert odyssey through the ancient West MacDonnell Ranges. This challenging 12-20 day trek traverses rugged quartzite gorges and purple-hued ridges, culminating at Mount Sonder. Immerse yourself in one of Earth's oldest landscapes, a remote wilderness of hidden springs and dramatic escarpments.
Distance: 223.0 km
Elevation Gain: 6950 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 12-20 days
The Larapinta Trail is Australia's most iconic desert trek—a 223-kilometre odyssey that traverses the ancient spine of the West MacDonnell Ranges (Tjoritja) in the Northern Territory. Stretching from the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station to the dramatic summit of Mount Sonder (Rwetyepme), the trail offers a profound immersion into one of the oldest landscapes on Earth. This is a journey through a world of deep red quartzite gorges, purple-hued ridges, and hidden permanent waterholes that serve as oases for unique desert flora and fauna. Walking the Larapinta is not merely a physical challenge; it is a spiritual encounter with the Arrernte people's ancestral lands, where every ridge and valley holds a story from the Altyerre (The Dreaming). With its vast horizons, brilliant starry nights, and the ever-changing colours of the Central Australian outback, the Larapinta Trail has earned its reputation as a world-class long-distance walking experience that demands endurance and rewards with incomparable beauty.
The Larapinta Trail is a masterclass in desert topography, following the ridgelines of the West MacDonnell Ranges. The trail is divided into 12 sections, each offering a distinct character and varying levels of difficulty. Unlike many coastal or alpine tracks, the Larapinta is defined by its ruggedness; the terrain is dominated by sharp quartzite rocks, loose scree, and sandy creek beds. The "spine" of the range provides walkers with constant panoramic views of the surrounding plains, where the scale of the Australian interior becomes truly palpable. The contrast between the high, exposed ridges like Brinkley Bluff and the deep, cool shadows of gorges like Standley Chasm or Ormiston Gorge creates a rhythmic experience of expansion and intimacy.
Geologically, the ranges are a remnant of a massive mountain system formed over 300 million years ago. The red colour that defines the trail comes from the oxidation of iron-rich minerals in the rock, a process that has occurred over eons. For the walker, this means traversing a landscape that feels prehistoric. You will encounter the MacDonnell Ranges Cycad, a "living fossil" that has survived in the sheltered microclimates of the gorges since the time of the dinosaurs. The trail also crosses the Finke River, believed to be one of the oldest river systems in the world, which only flows after significant rainfall but maintains permanent waterholes that support a surprising diversity of life, including the Black-footed Rock-wallaby and the iconic Ghost Gum with its startlingly white bark.
The difficulty of the Larapinta Trail should not be underestimated. While the elevation gain of 6,950 metres is spread over 223 kilometres, the nature of the path—often rocky and uneven—requires significant foot strength and balance. Water management is the most critical logistical factor, as natural water sources are scarce and unreliable. Northern Territory Parks maintains water tanks at most section trailheads, but through-hikers must meticulously plan their consumption and food drops. Despite these challenges, the trail is exceptionally well-marked with blue arrows, and the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit of Mount Sonder to watch the sunrise is a bucket-list experience for hikers worldwide.
The Larapinta Trail winds through the traditional lands of the Arrernte people, who have lived in and cared for this region for over 50,000 years. To the Arrernte, the West MacDonnell Ranges are known as Tjoritja. The landscape is a living map of their culture, with many sites along the trail being of immense spiritual significance. For example, the Caterpillar (Ayepe-arenye) Dreaming is central to the creation of the ranges themselves. Walkers are guests on this land and are encouraged to travel with respect, acknowledging the deep and continuing connection the Arrernte people have to their country. Many of the gaps and gorges along the trail are "Dreaming" sites where ancestral beings performed ceremonies or rested during their journeys across the continent.
European history in the area began in the mid-19th century with explorers like John McDouall Stuart, who sought a route across the centre of Australia. The establishment of the Alice Springs Telegraph Station in 1872 was a pivotal moment, linking Australia to the rest of the world via the Overland Telegraph Line. This station now serves as the eastern trailhead. The trail itself is a relatively modern creation, conceived in the 1980s by the Conservation Commission of the Northern Territory. Construction began in 1987 and was completed in 2002, involving years of painstaking work to create a sustainable path through such unforgiving terrain. The trail was designed to allow people to experience the wilderness of the ranges while protecting the fragile desert environment from unmanaged access.
Today, the Larapinta Trail is managed by the Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife Service. It stands as a testament to successful conservation and cultural partnership. The name "Larapinta" is derived from the Arrernte word for the Finke River, "Lhere-pirte," meaning a salty river. This name reflects the ancient nature of the landscape and the vital importance of water in the desert. As you walk, you are following in the footsteps of both ancient ancestors and modern pioneers, making the Larapinta a journey through time as much as through space.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Larapinta Trail is strictly a seasonal walk. The window for a safe and enjoyable trek is between April and September. During these months, the Central Australian winter provides clear blue skies and manageable daytime temperatures, typically ranging from 18°C to 25°C. However, walkers must be prepared for extreme temperature fluctuations. Once the sun sets, the desert heat dissipates rapidly, and night-time temperatures frequently drop below freezing (0°C to -5°C), especially in the high-altitude camps like Brinkley Bluff.
April and May: These months offer the tail end of the warmth. The landscape may still be green if there were significant summer rains, and waterholes are likely to be at their fullest. The days are longer than in mid-winter, providing more walking hours.
June, July, and August: This is the peak season. The weather is most stable, with almost guaranteed sunshine. However, this is also when the nights are coldest. Frost is common, and a high-quality sleeping bag is essential. This is the best time for those who prefer walking in cooler conditions (15°C–20°C).
September: Spring brings the blooming of desert wildflowers, including wattles, mulla mullas, and desert peas, transforming the red earth into a vibrant tapestry of colour. Temperatures begin to rise, often reaching the low 30s by the end of the month.
October to March: Walking the Larapinta during these months is highly discouraged and can be fatal. Temperatures regularly exceed 40°C, and the risk of heatstroke and severe dehydration is extreme. Many transport services and tour operators cease operations during this period, and the trail is effectively closed to through-hikers for safety reasons.
Day 1: Alice Springs Telegraph Station to Simpsons Gap
Day 2: Simpsons Gap to Jay Creek
Day 3: Jay Creek to Standley Chasm
Day 4: Standley Chasm to Birthday Waterhole
Day 5: Birthday Waterhole to Hugh Gorge
Day 6: Hugh Gorge to Ellery Creek Big Hole
Day 7: Ellery Creek Big Hole to Serpentine Gorge
Day 8: Serpentine Gorge to Serpentine Chalet Dam
Day 9: Serpentine Chalet Dam to Ormiston Gorge
Day 10: Ormiston Gorge to Finke River
Day 11: Finke River to Redbank Gorge
Day 12: Redbank Gorge to Mount Sonder Summit (Return)
The Larapinta Trail requires meticulous logistical planning, particularly regarding food and water. Most through-hikers base themselves in Alice Springs for several days before starting to organise food drops and transport. Alice Springs has several major supermarkets, outdoor stores, and a dedicated visitor centre. You must coordinate your food drops at specific locations: Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek, Serpentine Chalet Dam, and Ormiston Gorge. These are managed via secure storage lockers that must be booked in advance through local transfer operators or NT Parks.
Fitness is paramount. You will be carrying a heavy pack (often 18–22 kg including water) over uneven, rocky ground for 6–8 hours a day. Training should include multi-day hikes with a weighted pack and exercises to strengthen ankles and knees. Additionally, you must register your walking intent with the NT Parks "Walking Track Registration" system and consider carrying a Satellite Messenger or PLB, as mobile reception is non-existent for 95% of the trail.
Accommodation on the Larapinta Trail consists primarily of designated wilderness campsites. There are no huts or permanent buildings for sleeping along the route. Each of the 12 section trailheads features a campsite, most of which are equipped with basic facilities.
Campsite Facilities:
What is NOT Provided:
Costs and Bookings:
While there is no "permit" in the traditional sense to walk the trail, all walkers must book their campsites in advance through the Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife online booking system. This system acts as a way to manage numbers and ensure that campsites do not become overcrowded. You should book your entire itinerary well in advance, especially if travelling during the peak months of June and July.
Registration of Intent:
Commercial Fees:
Vehicle Access:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Larapinta Trail (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Larapinta Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Alice Springs and the West MacDonnell Ranges offer numerous experiences to complement your hike:
Water Management: This is the single greatest risk on the Larapinta Trail. Never rely on natural waterholes, as they can dry up or become contaminated. Always fill your containers to capacity at the NT Parks tanks. If a tank is empty (rare but possible), use your emergency communication device to alert authorities and stay put if you cannot safely reach the next source. Aim to drink at least 4–6 litres per day while walking.
Heat and Exposure: Even in winter, the sun is intense. Heat exhaustion can occur on days as cool as 25°C if you are over-exerting. Wear a hat, use sunblock, and try to complete the bulk of your walking before the mid-afternoon heat. Learn the signs of heatstroke: confusion, lack of sweating, and rapid pulse.
Remote Communication: There is almost no mobile phone coverage on the trail. A PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) is essential. In the event of a life-threatening emergency, activating a PLB will alert the Australian Maritime Safety Authority (AMSA), who will coordinate a rescue. For non-emergencies, a satellite messenger (like an inReach or Zoleo) allows you to check in with family or request non-urgent assistance.
Wildlife: Central Australia is home to several species of venomous snakes, including the King Brown and Western Brown. They are generally shy and will move away if they hear you coming, but always watch where you step, especially in long grass or rocky crevices. Carry a broad pressure immobilisation bandage and know how to use it. Dingoes are also present; keep your food secured and never feed them.
Navigation: While the trail is well-marked, it is easy to lose the path in sandy creek beds or on rocky plateaus. Always carry a physical map and compass as a backup to electronic devices. If you lose the trail, backtrack to the last known marker rather than pushing forward.
Mount Sonder (Rwetyepme) Sunrise: The ultimate Larapinta experience. The 1,380-metre summit offers a view that encompasses the entire range you have just walked. The climb from Redbank Gorge takes about 3 hours. Watching the shadow of the mountain stretch across the desert floor as the sun rises is a moment of profound beauty.
Counts Point: Located on Section 8, this lookout provides a spectacular perspective of the "Heavitree Quartzite" ridges. You can see the high peaks of the Chewings Range to the north and the vast Alice Valley to the south. It is often cited by through-hikers as their favourite view of the entire trip.
Inarlanga Pass: A narrow, dramatic gap in the Heavitree Range filled with ancient MacDonnell Ranges Cycads. The towering red walls and the prehistoric plants create an atmosphere that feels like stepping back millions of years. It is a short detour from the main trail near Serpentine Chalet Dam.
Ormiston Pound Walk: If you have an extra day at Ormiston Gorge, this 3–4 hour loop walk takes you into the heart of the "Pound"—a massive natural amphitheatre surrounded by mountains. It offers excellent birdwatching and geological interest.
Brinkley Bluff: While part of the main trail, spending a night camping on the summit is a popular "extra" for those with the gear to handle the cold and wind. The sunset and sunrise from this high point are legendary.
The desert environment is incredibly fragile. Footprints and tyre tracks can last for decades, and the slow growth rates of desert plants mean that damage takes a long time to heal. As a walker, you have a responsibility to minimise your impact.
Key Principles for the Larapinta:
