Japan — Tanabe
Traverse Japan's Kii Peninsula on the Kumano Kodo Kohechi, a 70km, 5-7 day route connecting Koyasan to the Kumano Sanzan shrines. This demanding, mountainous path offers a rugged, ancient pilgrimage through pristine wilderness, featuring challenging ascents and remote ridges. Expect a spiritually significant and physically taxing walk across varied terrain, demanding considerable fitness and mental fortitude.
Distance: 70.0 km
Elevation Gain: 3200 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 5-7 days
The Kohechi route of the Kumano Kodo is a challenging and spiritually significant pilgrimage trail in Japan's Kii Peninsula. Unlike the more popular Nakahechi route, the Kohechi is a rugged, mountainous path that connects the sacred mountain monastery of Koyasan to the three grand shrines of Kumano (Kumano Sanzan). This trail is not for the faint of heart; it demands considerable physical fitness, mental fortitude, and a deep respect for the ancient traditions and natural environment it traverses. The Kohechi offers a profound journey through remote mountain landscapes, dense forests, and past numerous smaller shrines and sacred sites, providing a unique and less-travelled perspective on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage experience.
The Kohechi route is the most demanding of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails, often described as a true test of endurance and spirit. It begins at the spiritual heart of Koyasan, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the centre of Shingon Buddhism, founded by Kobo Daishi in the 9th century. From Koyasan, the trail descends into remote mountain valleys, ascending and descending steep mountain passes through dense, ancient forests of cedar and cypress. The path is often narrow, rocky, and can be steep, with significant elevation changes on a daily basis. Unlike the more accessible Nakahechi route, the Kohechi passes through sparsely populated areas, offering a sense of solitude and immersion in nature that is increasingly rare.
The journey is punctuated by numerous small shrines (Otaisha) and Jizo statues, testaments to the centuries of pilgrims who have trod this path. The landscape is characterised by dramatic mountain scenery, crystal-clear rivers, and a profound sense of peace. The air is often cool and crisp, especially in the higher elevations, and the scent of cedar and damp earth fills the senses. The Kohechi is not just a physical journey; it is a spiritual one, designed to strip away worldly distractions and foster introspection. The challenging terrain and remoteness serve to deepen the pilgrim's connection to the sacred land and the ancient traditions of Kumano.
The trail culminates at the Kumano Sanzan—Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha—the three grand shrines that form the spiritual core of the Kumano Kodo. Reaching these sacred sites after traversing the Kohechi offers a profound sense of accomplishment and spiritual fulfilment. This route is best suited for experienced hikers who are comfortable with challenging terrain, variable weather conditions, and self-sufficiency.
The Kohechi route's history is deeply intertwined with the development of both Shingon Buddhism and the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Koyasan, established in 816 AD by Kobo Daishi (Kukai), became a major centre for Buddhist learning and practice. The pilgrimage to the Kumano Sanzan, which predates Buddhism in Japan, gained immense popularity during the Heian period (794–1185) and continued to flourish through the Edo period (1603–1868). The Kohechi route emerged as a vital link connecting these two powerful spiritual centres.
For centuries, monks, ascetics, and devout laypeople undertook the arduous journey between Koyasan and Kumano. This pilgrimage was not merely a physical trek but a spiritual discipline, a form of ascetic training (Shugyo) designed to purify the mind and body. The challenging terrain of the Kohechi was seen as an integral part of this purification process, forcing pilgrims to confront their physical and mental limits. The numerous Jizo statues encountered along the route are believed to be offerings from pilgrims seeking blessings or protection for themselves and their families, or as memorials for deceased loved ones.
The route's remoteness meant that pilgrims often relied on the hospitality of mountain hermits, small villages, and eventually, the development of inns and temples along the way. The Kohechi was particularly favoured by monks from Koyasan who wished to complete the full pilgrimage circuit. While the Nakahechi route became more popular for its relative ease and access to larger towns, the Kohechi maintained its reputation as the path for the most dedicated and spiritually driven pilgrims. Today, the Kohechi offers a rare opportunity to walk in the footsteps of these ancient pilgrims, experiencing a journey that is both physically demanding and deeply spiritual.
The Kohechi route is best experienced during the spring and autumn months. These seasons offer the most stable weather conditions and pleasant temperatures for hiking.
Spring (April-May): This is an ideal time to walk the Kohechi. The weather is generally mild, with temperatures ranging from cool to warm. Cherry blossoms may still be visible in the lower elevations in early spring, adding a touch of ephemeral beauty to the landscape. The forests begin to bud, and the air is fresh. However, spring can also bring unpredictable weather, including late snowfalls at higher elevations, especially in April. Rain is also possible, and temperatures can drop significantly at night.
Summer (June-August): Summer on the Kohechi is characterised by high humidity, heavy rainfall, and the potential for typhoons. Temperatures can be very hot, making strenuous climbs challenging. The dense forest canopy offers some shade, but the humidity can be oppressive. This season is generally not recommended for the Kohechi due to the challenging weather conditions and increased risk of landslides or trail damage from heavy rain.
Autumn (October-November): Autumn is another excellent season for the Kohechi. The weather is typically clear and crisp, with comfortable temperatures. The forests transform into a spectacular display of autumn foliage, with vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows painting the mountainsides. This is a visually stunning time to undertake the pilgrimage. However, as winter approaches, temperatures can drop significantly, especially at night and at higher elevations. Frost and even early snow are possible in late November.
Winter (December-March): The Kohechi route is generally not recommended during winter. Heavy snowfall can make the higher passes impassable, and many of the smaller accommodations may be closed. The conditions require advanced winter hiking and navigation skills, and the risk of avalanches is present. Only experienced winter mountaineers should consider attempting this route during the winter months.
Day 1: Arrival in Koyasan and Exploration
Day 2: Koyasan to Daimon-zaka (approx. 10 km)
Day 3: Daimon-zaka to Totsukawa Village (approx. 15-18 km)
Day 4: Totsukawa Village to Kumano Hongu Taisha area (approx. 15-20 km)
Day 5: Kumano Hongu Taisha to Kumano Nachi Taisha (approx. 15-20 km)
Important Notes:
The Kohechi route requires meticulous planning due to its challenging nature and remote locations. Unlike more popular trails, accommodation options are limited and must be secured well in advance, especially during peak seasons (spring and autumn). It is crucial to have a solid understanding of your physical capabilities and to train accordingly. Familiarise yourself with Japanese customs and etiquette, particularly regarding temple stays and onsen (hot springs). Ensure you have adequate travel insurance that covers hiking in remote areas.
The primary gateway city for accessing Koyasan is Osaka. From Kansai International Airport (KIX), you can take a train to Namba Station in Osaka and then transfer to the Nankai Koya Line for Koyasan. The journey to Koyasan itself takes approximately 2-3 hours. For the end of the trail, Kii-Katsuura or Shingu are the main transport hubs, accessible by JR trains. Tanabe City is also a key point for information and registration for the Kumano Kodo trails.
Accommodation along the Kohechi route varies significantly and requires advance booking.
This is a challenging hike requiring overnight stays in designated accommodations. No specific campsites are available on the Kohechi route.
The Kumano Kodo Kohechi route does not require specific permits for hiking. However, registration is highly recommended for safety and tracking purposes. You can register your pilgrimage at the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau or at the tourist information centre in Koyasan.
Registration Benefits:
Accommodation Bookings: While no permits are needed for the trail, booking accommodation in advance is absolutely critical. This is especially true for temple lodgings (Shukubo) in Koyasan and the limited number of minshuku and mountain huts along the Kohechi route. Popular establishments can be fully booked months in advance, particularly during the spring and autumn peak seasons.
Koyasan Temple Lodgings (Shukubo): These are the primary accommodation option within Koyasan. They are not just places to stay but offer a unique cultural and spiritual experience. Booking directly with the temple or through reputable online travel agencies is advised.
Minshuku and Mountain Huts: These are scattered along the more remote sections of the Kohechi. Their availability is limited, and they often cater to a small number of guests. It is essential to research and book these well in advance. Websites like Japan Guide or dedicated Kumano Kodo travel planners can assist with finding and booking these accommodations.
Travel Insurance: Ensure your travel insurance covers hiking and potential medical evacuation, as medical facilities can be distant in the remote areas of the Kohechi.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Kumano Kodo Kohechi (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Kumano Kodo Kohechi, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The regions surrounding the Kohechi route offer a wealth of cultural and natural attractions:
Trail Conditions: The Kohechi is a challenging trail with steep ascents and descents, often on narrow, rocky, and uneven paths. Sections can be muddy and slippery, especially after rain. Overgrown sections are possible, and navigation can be difficult in poor visibility. Always carry a map and compass, and be prepared for the trail to be less maintained than more popular routes.
Weather: Weather in the mountains can change rapidly. Be prepared for rain, fog, strong winds, and significant temperature drops, even in spring and autumn. Typhoons are a risk during summer. Check weather forecasts before you depart and be prepared to alter your plans if conditions become dangerous.
Remoteness: Large sections of the Kohechi are remote with limited mobile phone reception. This means that self-sufficiency is paramount. Carry enough food, water, and essential supplies. Inform someone of your itinerary and expected return date.
Physical Fitness: This trail is physically demanding. Ensure you are well-prepared with regular hiking and strength training. The cumulative elevation gain and loss over several days can be significant.
Water Sources: While water is generally available from streams and springs, it is essential to treat all water before drinking to avoid waterborne illnesses. Carry a water filter or purification tablets.
Wildlife: While encounters are rare, be aware of local wildlife. Bears are present in some mountainous regions of Japan, though sightings on the main Kumano Kodo routes are uncommon. Make noise while hiking to alert animals to your presence.
Emergency Contacts: Know the emergency numbers in Japan (110 for police, 119 for fire and ambulance). Having your accommodation details readily available is also crucial.
Respect Local Customs: Be mindful of local customs, especially when staying in temples or rural villages. Remove shoes before entering buildings, be quiet and respectful in sacred areas, and follow any posted rules.
Okunoin Cemetery (Koyasan): While not a side trip in the traditional sense, spending ample time exploring Okunoin is highly recommended. This vast, ancient cemetery is one of Japan's most sacred and atmospheric sites, with over 200,000 moss-covered tombstones and monuments lining a kilometre-long path leading to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum. The atmosphere, especially in the early morning or late evening, is profoundly spiritual.
Daimon Gate (Koyasan): The main southern entrance to Koyasan, this imposing gate marks the traditional start of the pilgrimage route. It's a significant landmark and a good point to begin your descent.
Jizo Statues: Throughout the Kohechi route, you will encounter numerous Jizo statues, often adorned with red bibs and hats. These statues represent Kannon Bodhisattva in his role as protector of children and travellers. They are a constant reminder of the spiritual nature of the pilgrimage and the devotion of those who have walked before.
Oyunohara (near Kumano Hongu Taisha): This is the original site of Kumano Hongu Taisha, located about a kilometre south of the current shrine. It is marked by Japan's largest torii gate, standing at 36.9 metres high and 11.9 metres wide. The vast open space is incredibly evocative and a significant historical site.
Nachi Falls: The majestic Nachi Falls is a breathtaking sight and a sacred place. The sheer volume of water cascading down the cliff face is impressive, and the view of the falls with the five-storied pagoda of Kumano Nachi Taisha nearby is one of the most iconic images of the Kumano Kodo.
Totsukawa Onsen: The Totsukawa region is famous for its hot springs. Many accommodations offer access to onsen, providing a perfect opportunity to relax and rejuvenate after strenuous hiking days. Exploring the various public and private onsen can be a rewarding experience.
The Kumano Kodo Kohechi route traverses pristine natural landscapes and culturally significant sites. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is paramount to preserving this environment and its spiritual heritage for future generations.
By following these principles, you contribute to the ongoing preservation of the Kumano Kodo's natural beauty and spiritual significance.
