Nepal — Kathmandu
The Khumbu Three Passes Trek in Nepal is the ultimate Everest region odyssey, a 55km loop through Sagarmatha National Park. This very challenging 18-21 day route ascends three formidable alpine passes: Kongma La (5,535m), Cho La (5,420m), and Renjo La (5,360m). Traverse rugged terrain, witness breathtaking panoramas, and immerse yourself in the pristine wilderness of the Himalayas.
Distance: 54.8 km
Elevation Gain: 3000 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 18-21 days
The Khumbu Three Passes Trek is widely considered the definitive trekking experience in the Everest region of Nepal. Spanning approximately 55 kilometres of high-altitude terrain, this 18 to 21-day odyssey traverses the heart of the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Unlike the standard out-and-back route to Everest Base Camp, the Three Passes Trek forms a grand loop that crosses three formidable alpine passes: Kongma La (5,535 metres), Cho La (5,420 metres), and Renjo La (5,360 metres). This journey offers a profound immersion into the scale of the Himalayas, taking trekkers through four distinct valleys—the Imja, Khumbu, Gokyo, and Bhote Koshi—each possessing its own unique character, geological features, and cultural heritage.
This is not merely a walk; it is a high-altitude endurance challenge that demands physical resilience, mental fortitude, and a deep respect for the mountain environment. The route provides unparalleled views of four of the world's fourteen 8,000-metre peaks: Mount Everest (8,848 m), Lhotse (8,516 m), Makalu (8,481 m), and Cho Oyu (8,188 m). Beyond the physical landmarks, the trek offers an intimate look at the Sherpa culture, passing through ancient monasteries, high-altitude summer pastures, and remote villages that remain largely untouched by the heavy commercial traffic of the main Everest trail. For those seeking the most comprehensive, challenging, and rewarding circuit in the Khumbu, the Three Passes Trek stands alone.
The Khumbu Three Passes Trek is the "grand tour" of the Everest region. While the standard Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek focuses on a singular destination, the Three Passes Trek focuses on the journey across the entire landscape. It is a route designed for those who find the main trails too crowded and the standard itineraries too linear. By crossing the high ridges that separate the major valleys of the Khumbu, trekkers gain a three-dimensional perspective of the Himalayan range that is impossible to achieve from the valley floors.
The trek typically begins and ends with a dramatic flight into Lukla, often cited as one of the most exhilarating airport landings in the world. From Lukla, the trail follows the Dudh Koshi River northward, climbing through lush pine and rhododendron forests into the bustling Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar. It is here that the real journey begins, as the trail diverges from the main tourist highway. The route ascends into the high alpine zone, where the trees disappear, replaced by hardy shrubs, lichens, and the stark, monochromatic beauty of rock and ice.
The three passes themselves represent the physical and emotional highlights of the trek. Kongma La is the highest and often considered the most difficult due to its steep, scree-covered slopes and the crossing of the Khumbu Glacier. Cho La involves a traverse across a small glacier, requiring careful footwork and often the use of micro-spikes. Renjo La, the final pass for those travelling anti-clockwise, offers what many consider the finest view in the entire Himalayas: a panoramic sweep of the Gokyo Lakes with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu towering in the background. This trek is a masterclass in high-altitude geography, taking you from the humid lowlands to the very edge of the "Death Zone," providing a sense of scale that is both humbling and exhilarating.
The history of the Khumbu region is inextricably linked to the Sherpa people, an ethnic group of Tibetan origin who migrated across the high passes of the Himalayas approximately 500 years ago. The word "Sherpa" literally translates to "People from the East." Historically, the Sherpas were nomadic herders and traders, moving salt, wool, and grain between the Tibetan plateau and the middle hills of Nepal. The very passes that trekkers now cross for recreation—Kongma La, Cho La, and Renjo La—were once vital trade arteries used by Sherpa caravans long before the arrival of Western mountaineers.
The cultural landscape of the Khumbu is defined by Tibetan Buddhism. Every village is marked by mani walls (stone tablets inscribed with prayers), chortens (stupas), and colourful prayer flags that send blessings on the wind. The Tengboche Monastery, though often a side trip on this trek, serves as the spiritual heart of the region. The Three Passes route takes trekkers through Thame, the childhood home of Tenzing Norgay, who, along with Sir Edmund Hillary, made the first successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. This event transformed the Khumbu from a remote mountain sanctuary into a global destination for adventure.
In recent decades, the region has seen significant change. The establishment of the Sagarmatha National Park in 1976 helped preserve the natural environment, while the growth of the trekking industry has brought economic opportunities to the Sherpa communities. However, the Three Passes Trek remains a bastion of the "old" Khumbu. Because it is significantly more difficult than the standard EBC route, it sees a fraction of the traffic, allowing the traditional rhythms of mountain life to persist. Walking these trails is not just a physical journey; it is a walk through a living history of exploration, faith, and human endurance in one of the harshest environments on Earth.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
Timing is everything in the Himalayas. The Khumbu region experiences a monsoon-driven climate, which dictates two primary trekking windows. Outside of these windows, the high passes can become impassable due to deep snow or extreme cold.
Autumn (October to November): This is widely considered the best time for the Three Passes Trek. Following the monsoon rains, the air is washed clean of dust, resulting in exceptionally clear skies and the sharpest views of the peaks. The weather is generally stable, though temperatures at high altitudes (above 5,000 metres) will frequently drop well below freezing at night. This is the peak season, so teahouses will be busy, but the social atmosphere is vibrant.
Spring (April to May): The second premier window. While the skies may be slightly hazier than in autumn, the landscape comes alive with blooming rhododendrons in the lower elevations. This is also the primary climbing season for Mount Everest; trekkers will see the massive tent city of Everest Base Camp at its most active. Temperatures are slightly warmer than in autumn, but the risk of afternoon clouds and occasional spring snowstorms is higher.
Winter (December to February): For the truly adventurous and well-equipped, winter offers solitude and crystal-clear days. However, the reality is brutal. Temperatures can drop to -30°C at night, and many teahouses at higher elevations close for the season. Most importantly, the three passes are often blocked by heavy snow, making the circuit impossible without technical mountaineering equipment and expertise. This is not recommended for standard trekking.
Monsoon (June to September): Trekking during the monsoon is generally avoided. Heavy rains lead to leeches in the lower forests, frequent landslides, and obscured mountain views. Most critically, flights to Lukla are frequently cancelled for days or even weeks at a time due to poor visibility, making logistics a nightmare.
Day 1: Kathmandu to Lukla and Phakding
Day 2: Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Day 3: Acclimatisation Day in Namche Bazaar
Day 4: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Day 5: Tengboche to Dingboche
Day 6: Acclimatisation Day in Dingboche
Day 7: Dingboche to Chhukung
Day 8: Chhukung to Lobuche via Kongma La Pass
Day 9: Lobuche to Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp
Day 10: Gorak Shep to Kala Patthar and Dzongla
Day 11: Dzongla to Gokyo via Cho La Pass
Day 12: Rest and Exploration in Gokyo
Day 13: Gokyo to Lungden via Renjo La Pass
Day 14: Lungden to Thame
Day 15: Thame to Namche Bazaar
Day 16: Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Day 17: Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 18-20: Buffer Days
The Khumbu Three Passes Trek is a serious undertaking that requires months of physical and logistical preparation. Fitness is paramount; you should be comfortable walking 6–8 hours a day for three weeks with a 10–15 kg pack. Focus on cardiovascular endurance and leg strength. Equally important is mental preparation for the basic living conditions and the effects of high altitude.
Logistically, your journey begins in Kathmandu. You will need to coordinate your domestic flights to Lukla, which are notorious for weather-related delays. It is highly recommended to book these flights for the earliest possible time slot in the morning. Most trekkers choose to hire a guide or a porter-guide through a reputable agency in Kathmandu or Namche. While experienced trekkers can do this route independently, a guide provides invaluable assistance with navigation on the glaciers and passes, as well as cultural insights and emergency support.
Accommodation on the Three Passes Trek consists of teahouses—locally owned mountain lodges that provide a bed and hot meals. The quality and facilities vary significantly depending on the altitude and remoteness of the village.
Hut Facilities:
What Teahouses Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
Trekking in the Khumbu region requires specific permits that contribute to the maintenance of the trails and the protection of the national park. As of 2024, the permit system has been streamlined, but it is essential to have the correct documentation to pass through the various checkpoints.
Required Permits:
Important Notes:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Khumbu Three Passes Trek (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Khumbu Three Passes Trek, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Khumbu region offers several world-class side trips and cultural experiences that can be integrated into a Three Passes itinerary:
Altitude Sickness (AMS): Acute Mountain Sickness is the primary safety concern on the Three Passes Trek. The route spends significant time above 4,000 metres and crosses three passes over 5,300 metres. It is vital to follow the "climb high, sleep low" principle and include mandatory acclimatisation days in Namche and Dingboche. Recognise the symptoms: headache, nausea, dizziness, and loss of appetite. If symptoms persist or worsen, the only cure is immediate descent.
Weather and Pass Conditions: The high passes are subject to extreme weather. Snowstorms can occur even in the peak seasons, obscuring the trail and making the passes dangerous. Never attempt a pass in poor visibility or heavy snow without a guide. The crossing of the Khumbu and Ngozumpa glaciers involves walking over "living" ice covered in debris; the trail changes constantly as the ice melts and shifts.
Water Safety: Never drink untreated water from streams or taps. Use a reliable purification method (UV or chemical) or purchase boiled water from teahouses. Dehydration exacerbates altitude sickness, so aim to drink 3–4 litres of treated water daily.
Insurance: Standard travel insurance is insufficient. You must have a policy that specifically covers trekking up to 6,000 metres and includes emergency helicopter evacuation. In the event of serious AMS or injury, a helicopter is often the only way out of the Khumbu.
Communication: While Wi-Fi and mobile signals (Ncell/Nepal Telecom) are improving, they are unreliable in the high valleys and on the passes. Consider carrying a satellite messenger (like a Garmin inReach) for emergency communication, especially if trekking independently.
The Fifth Gokyo Lake (Ngozumpa Tsho): For those with an extra day in Gokyo, the walk to the fifth lake is highly recommended. It takes you further up the valley towards the base of Cho Oyu. The view from the ridge overlooking the lake and the glacier is one of the most pristine and quiet spots in the entire Khumbu.
Ama Dablam Base Camp: A detour from Pangboche leads to the base camp of Ama Dablam (6,812 m), often called the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas." The camp sits in a beautiful alpine meadow and offers a close-up look at one of the world's most beautiful mountains.
The Khumbu Glacier Crossing: Between Chhukung and Lobuche, you must cross the Khumbu Glacier. This is not a flat walk; it is a scramble over mounds of rock and ice. It is a fascinating geological experience where you can hear the glacier "groaning" and see the raw power of the ice carving the landscape.
The Hillary School in Khumjung: A short walk from Namche Bazaar takes you to Khumjung, where Sir Edmund Hillary established the first school for Sherpa children. The village also features a monastery that claims to house a "Yeti scalp."
The Khumbu region is under immense environmental pressure from the volume of trekkers. As a visitor, you have a responsibility to minimise your impact on this fragile high-altitude ecosystem.
Leave No Trace Principles:
