Finland — Kuusamo
Hike Finland's iconic Karhunkierros Trail, an 82km route through Oulanka National Park's rugged wilderness. This moderate, 4-7 day walk immerses you in Arctic Circle taiga, featuring roaring rapids and dramatic dolomitic cliffs. Traverse pristine forests and fells on this celebrated Finnish path.
Distance: 82.0 km
Elevation Gain: 1500 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 4-7 days
The Karhunkierros Trail, known internationally as the "Bear's Trail" or "The Bear's Ring," is Finland's most celebrated and storied hiking route. Stretching 82 kilometres through the wild, rugged landscapes of Oulanka National Park and the surrounding fells of Kuusamo, this trail offers an unparalleled immersion into the taiga forest of the Arctic Circle. Despite its name, the trail is not a loop but a linear journey that traverses a landscape defined by roaring white-water rapids, sheer dolomite cliffs, ancient pine forests, and expansive mires. It is a route that captures the very essence of the Finnish wilderness—a place where the silence of the northern woods is broken only by the thunder of waterfalls and the call of the Siberian jay. Whether you are navigating the iconic hanging bridges over the Oulanka River or standing atop the windswept summit of Valtavaara, the Karhunkierros provides a profound sense of isolation and natural majesty that has drawn hikers for over seven decades.
The Karhunkierros Trail is more than just a walk; it is a rite of passage for Finnish outdoor enthusiasts and a premier destination for international trekkers seeking the raw beauty of the North. The trail is situated in the Koillismaa region, right on the edge of the Arctic Circle, where the landscape is a dramatic transition between the boreal forests of the south and the treeless fells of Lapland. The route is famous for its diversity: the northern section is characterised by the wide, meandering Oulanka River and its dramatic canyons, while the southern section transforms into a challenging series of steep climbs and descents over the ancient fells of the Kuusamo region.
One of the defining features of the Karhunkierros is its accessibility to pristine water. The trail follows the Oulanka and Kitka rivers for much of its length, providing hikers with a constant soundtrack of flowing water. The geological history of the area is visible in the exposed dolomite rock formations, which support a unique microclimate and rare plant species found nowhere else in Finland. The trail is also famous for its hanging bridges—narrow, swaying structures that allow hikers to cross turbulent rapids with a thrilling perspective of the river below. These bridges are not merely functional; they are iconic landmarks of the Karhunkierros experience.
While the trail is well-maintained and clearly marked with orange paint on trees, it should not be underestimated. The total elevation gain of approximately 1,500 metres is concentrated heavily in the final 20 kilometres, where the trail summits several fells in quick succession. This "sting in the tail" requires good physical fitness and steady legs. However, the reward for these climbs is a series of breathtaking panoramas that stretch across the border into Russia, over a sea of endless green forest and shimmering blue lakes. The Karhunkierros offers a perfect balance of challenge and infrastructure, with a network of free wilderness huts that provide a unique cultural experience of Finnish "Everyman's Right" and communal outdoor living.
The history of the Karhunkierros Trail is deeply intertwined with the establishment of Oulanka National Park in 1956. However, the route itself predates the park's formal status. The first sections of the trail were marked in the 1950s as a way to encourage Finns to explore the remote northeastern wilderness. The name "Karhunkierros" (Bear's Ring) is somewhat of a misnomer today, as the modern trail is linear, but the original vision included a more circular route. The "Bear" in the name pays homage to the brown bears that inhabit these forests, though they are notoriously shy and rarely seen by hikers.
The region has a long history of human activity, primarily related to reindeer husbandry and logging. Before the national park was established, the Oulanka River was a vital artery for timber floating. Loggers would navigate the treacherous rapids to move timber from the deep forests to the mills. You can still see remnants of this era in the old log-cabin-style wilderness huts, some of which were originally built as shelters for forest workers or reindeer herders. The area also holds significant wartime history; the proximity to the Russian border meant that this region was a sensitive zone during the Second World War, and the landscape still bears the quiet scars of that era in the form of old border markers and overgrown trenches.
Culturally, the Karhunkierros represents the Finnish concept of "Sisu"—a combination of grit, resilience, and a deep-seated love for the forest. For many Finns, completing the "Bear's Trail" is a significant milestone. The trail also passes through areas of spiritual importance to the indigenous Sámi people, who historically moved through these valleys following reindeer migrations. Today, the trail is managed by Metsähallitus (the Finnish Forest Administration), which ensures that the delicate Arctic ecosystem is protected while remaining open to the public. The preservation of the Oulanka River as a free-flowing waterway, saved from hydroelectric development in the mid-20th century, remains one of Finland's greatest conservation victories.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Karhunkierros Trail experiences the full intensity of the four seasons, each offering a vastly different hiking experience. Choosing the right time to visit is crucial for managing expectations regarding weather, insects, and trail conditions.
Summer (June to August): This is the most popular time to hike. June brings the phenomenon of the Midnight Sun, where the sun never fully sets, allowing for 24-hour hiking if desired. However, June and July are also the peak of the "Räkkä" season—the emergence of billions of mosquitoes, blackflies, and midges. Without proper protection, the insects can be overwhelming. August is often considered the "sweet spot," as the insect numbers begin to dwindle, the weather remains warm (15–25°C), and the wild berries (bilberries and cloudberries) are ripe for picking.
Autumn (September): Many experienced hikers consider September the best month for the Karhunkierros. This is the season of "Ruska," when the deciduous trees and ground vegetation turn vibrant shades of gold, orange, and crimson. The air is crisp and cool, the insects are gone, and the northern lights (Aurora Borealis) begin to dance in the night sky. Night-time temperatures can drop below freezing, so a warm sleeping bag is essential.
Winter (January to April): The trail transforms into a challenging winter expedition route. The path is not maintained for walking in winter; instead, it is tackled by experienced trekkers on backcountry skis or snowshoes. Temperatures can plummet to -30°C or lower. The wilderness huts remain open, but reaching them requires significant effort through deep snow. This is a world of blue twilight, frozen waterfalls, and absolute silence.
Spring (May): This is the "shoulder season" to avoid. The snow melt (flood season) turns the trail into a muddy morass, and the rivers swell to dangerous levels. Many sections of the trail may be underwater, and the risk of damaging the fragile ground vegetation is high. Most hikers wait until at least early June for the trails to dry out.
Day 1: Hautajärvi to Savilampi
Day 2: Savilampi to Taivalköngäs
Day 3: Taivalköngäs to Jussinkämppä
Day 4: Jussinkämppä to Siilastupa (Juuma)
Day 5: Siilastupa to Ruka
Important Notes:
Planning for the Karhunkierros requires coordinating transport to a remote part of northeastern Finland. The closest major town is Kuusamo, which has an airport (KUS) with regular flights from Helsinki. From Kuusamo, the "Karhunkierros Bus" is the primary lifeline for hikers, running seasonally between the airport, the town centre, Ruka, and the trailheads at Hautajärvi and Juuma. It is highly recommended to leave your vehicle in Ruka (the finish point) and take the bus to the start at Hautajärvi to avoid logistical headaches at the end of the trek.
Physical preparation is important, particularly for the final 20 kilometres. While the northern sections are relatively gentle, the southern fells involve steep, rocky ascents and descents that can be taxing on the knees. Hikers should be comfortable carrying a full multi-day pack (typically 12–18 kg) over varied terrain. There are no shops along the trail once you leave the trailheads, so all food must be carried from the start, although the Oulanka Visitor Centre (midway) has a small café with limited snacks.
The Karhunkierros is famous for its network of free wilderness huts (autiotupa). These are basic log cabins maintained by the state. They operate on a first-come, first-served basis, with a unique Finnish etiquette: the last person to arrive always has the right to a space, meaning those already inside must make room, even if it means sleeping on the floor.
Hut Facilities:
What Huts Don't Provide:
Camping: Camping is permitted in the immediate vicinity of the wilderness huts and at designated campfire sites. In Oulanka National Park, camping outside these designated areas is strictly prohibited to protect the fragile environment. Most hikers carry a lightweight tent or tarp even if they plan to stay in huts, as the cabins can become full during the peak season (July and September).
One of the greatest appeals of the Karhunkierros Trail is that no permits or fees are required to hike the trail or stay in the wilderness huts. This is a reflection of Finland's "Everyman's Right" (Jokamiehenoikeus), which allows anyone to roam freely in nature. However, because the trail passes through a National Park, there are specific regulations that must be followed to ensure the area's conservation.
Registration and Regulations:
Visitor Centres: It is highly recommended to stop at the Hautajärvi Visitor Centre (at the start) or the Oulanka Visitor Centre (midway). The staff provide up-to-date information on trail conditions, river levels, and weather forecasts. You can also purchase maps and basic supplies here.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Karhunkierros Trail (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Karhunkierros Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Kuusamo and Oulanka region is a hub for outdoor adventure. If you have extra time before or after your hike, consider these activities:
Pre-Departure Checks:
Terrain Hazards: The Karhunkierros is not technically difficult, but it is physically demanding. The most common injuries are twisted ankles and knee strain, particularly on the rocky descents of the southern fells. The boardwalks over mires can be extremely slippery when wet; walk with caution. The hanging bridges have weight limits (usually 1–3 people at a time); always follow the posted instructions to avoid excessive swaying or structural stress.
Wildlife: While brown bears live in the area, they are extremely wary of humans. To avoid a surprise encounter, make noise (talk or whistle) when moving through dense brush. Store your food securely inside the huts or hang it from a tree if camping. The most significant "dangerous" wildlife are actually ticks (in the long grass) and the sheer volume of biting insects, which can cause allergic reactions or significant distress if you are unprepared.
Water Safety: The rivers in Oulanka are powerful. Never attempt to ford the Oulanka or Kitka rivers; always use the provided bridges. During the spring melt, river levels can rise rapidly, making some low-lying sections of the trail muddy or temporarily impassable.
Emergency Services: The universal emergency number in Finland is 112. It is recommended to download the "112 Suomi" app, which automatically sends your GPS coordinates to emergency services if you call through the app. While there is mobile coverage on most of the trail, the deep canyons can create dead zones.
Kiutaköngäs Rapids: Located just 1 km from the Oulanka Visitor Centre, these are perhaps the most famous rapids in Finland. The river squeezes through a narrow gorge of red dolomite rock, creating a thunderous display of white water. The contrast between the red stone and the dark water is a photographer's dream. It is an easy detour and should not be missed.
Ristikallio Cliffs: If you take the alternative northern start from the Ristikallio parking area, you will pass these impressive cliffs overlooking the Aventojoki River. The view from the top of the cliffs across the vast, untouched forest towards the horizon is one of the most iconic vistas in the region.
Valtavaara Fire Lookout: On the final day, the trail passes a small wooden hut on the summit of Valtavaara fell. This was originally a fire lookout tower. It is now a day-trip hut where you can take shelter from the wind. The 360-degree views from here are the highest on the trail, offering a clear view of the Ruka ski jumps and the vast wilderness stretching into Russia.
Jyrävä Waterfall: Located near Juuma, this 9-metre vertical drop is one of the most powerful waterfalls in the country. The sound is deafening, and the mist from the falls creates a lush, mossy microclimate around the base. There is a well-maintained viewing platform that allows you to get very close to the brink of the falls.
Oulanka Canyon: Near the Savilampi hut at the northern end of the trail, the Oulanka River has carved a deep, narrow canyon into the bedrock. A short loop trail leads to the edge of the canyon, where vertical walls drop straight into the dark water below. It is a starkly beautiful and somewhat intimidating landscape.
Oulanka National Park is a sanctuary for rare Arctic and boreal species. The ecosystem here is fragile; the growing season is short, and recovery from human impact can take decades. Hikers are expected to follow the principles of "Litter-Free Hiking."
Your responsibility as a walker:
By following these principles, you ensure that the Karhunkierros remains a pristine wilderness for the next generation of hikers. The goal is to leave no sign of your passage.
