Brazil — Angra dos Reis
Hike the Trilha da Ilha Grande from Abraão to Dois Rios, a moderate 15km route through Brazil's pristine Atlantic rainforest. This 5-7 hour walk unveils stunning coastal panoramas and lush jungle scenery on car-free Ilha Grande. Traverse varied terrain, from forest paths to open stretches, offering a rewarding glimpse into this protected island wilderness.
Distance: 15.0 km
Elevation Gain: 600 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 5-7 hours
The Trilha da Ilha Grande, specifically the route from Abraão to Dois Rios, offers a captivating day hike on one of Brazil's most stunning islands. Ilha Grande, meaning "Big Island," is a protected paradise located off the coast of Rio de Janeiro state, renowned for its pristine beaches, lush Atlantic rainforest, and a complete absence of cars. This particular trail is a popular choice for visitors seeking a moderate challenge with rewarding coastal and forest scenery. It connects the main village of Abraão with the secluded beach of Dois Rios, passing through varied terrain that showcases the island's natural beauty. The journey is a delightful immersion into the tropical environment, with opportunities to encounter diverse flora and fauna, and to enjoy the tranquility of a less-visited beach.
The Trilha da Ilha Grande from Abraão to Dois Rios is a quintessential island hiking experience, blending coastal vistas with the dense, verdant embrace of the Atlantic rainforest. This trail is not merely a path between two points; it's an exploration of Ilha Grande's diverse ecosystems and its unique, car-free way of life. Starting in the bustling, yet charming, village of Abraão, the trail quickly ascends, offering panoramic views back over the bay and the colourful rooftops of the main settlement. As you climb, the sounds of the village fade, replaced by the symphony of the rainforest: the chirping of unseen birds, the rustling of leaves, and the distant murmur of the ocean.
The ascent is steady, leading you through well-maintained but sometimes steep paths that wind through thick vegetation. You'll encounter a rich variety of plant life, from towering trees draped in epiphytes to vibrant flowering plants. The air is humid and fragrant, carrying the scent of damp earth and tropical blossoms. Keep an eye out for local wildlife; Ilha Grande is home to numerous bird species, monkeys, and other small mammals, though sightings can be elusive.
The trail's highest point offers breathtaking vistas of the surrounding coastline and the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. This is often a good spot for a rest and to appreciate the sheer scale of the island's natural beauty. From here, the path begins its descent towards Dois Rios. This section of the trail can be more challenging, with steeper descents and potentially slippery sections, especially after rain. The forest canopy remains dense, providing welcome shade, but the humidity can be high.
Dois Rios, meaning "Two Rivers," is a secluded beach known for its natural beauty and the presence of a former prison complex, which now houses a university research centre. The beach itself is a stunning crescent of golden sand, framed by lush green hills and lapped by clear blue waters. The two rivers that give the beach its name flow down from the hills, creating freshwater streams that meet the sea. The journey to Dois Rios is a rewarding experience, offering a sense of accomplishment and the chance to discover a more remote and tranquil side of Ilha Grande.
Ilha Grande has a rich and varied history, shaped by indigenous peoples, colonial powers, and its unique geographical isolation. Before European arrival, the island was inhabited by the Tupi indigenous peoples, who lived in harmony with the abundant natural resources. The island's strategic location and natural harbours later attracted Portuguese explorers and settlers.
During the colonial era and into the 19th century, Ilha Grande served various purposes, including as a quarantine station for ships arriving in Rio de Janeiro and as a penal colony. The most significant historical landmark on the trail to Dois Rios is the former prison complex itself. Established in the mid-20th century, the Instituto Penal Cândido Mendes was one of Brazil's most notorious prisons, housing dangerous criminals and political prisoners. Its remote location and the island's isolation made it an ideal, albeit harsh, place of confinement. The prison was eventually closed in the late 1990s, and the island was declared a protected ecological reserve, leading to the removal of all permanent residents and the prohibition of vehicular traffic.
The closure of the prison marked a turning point for Ilha Grande, transforming it from a place of confinement into a sanctuary of nature. Today, the former prison site at Dois Rios is occupied by a university research centre, focusing on environmental studies and sustainable development. This transition reflects a broader shift in the island's identity, from a site of historical hardship to a symbol of ecological preservation and responsible tourism. The trail itself, though now a popular hiking route, follows paths that were likely used historically for access, transport, and perhaps even by those confined within the prison walls.
Ilha Grande experiences a tropical climate, with distinct wet and dry seasons. The best time for hiking the Trilha da Ilha Grande is during the dry season, which typically runs from April to September. During these months, rainfall is significantly lower, and the weather is generally more pleasant for outdoor activities.
Dry Season (April to September): This period offers the most favourable conditions for hiking. Days are often sunny with clear blue skies, and the humidity is lower compared to the wet season. Temperatures are generally warm but not excessively hot, making the 600 metres of elevation gain more manageable. The reduced rainfall also means the trails are less likely to be muddy or slippery, and river crossings are generally easier. This is the peak tourist season for the island, so expect more people on the trails and in Abraão.
Wet Season (October to March): This season is characterised by higher temperatures, increased humidity, and frequent, often heavy, rainfall. While the rainforest is at its most vibrant during this time, hiking can be more challenging. Trails can become muddy, slippery, and potentially hazardous. River levels can rise significantly, making crossings difficult or impossible. Thunderstorms are common and can occur suddenly, posing a risk to hikers. Despite the challenges, the lush greenery and the dramatic waterfalls created by the rain can be spectacular. However, for a more comfortable and predictable hiking experience, the dry season is highly recommended.
Shoulder Seasons (March/April and September/October): These transitional periods can offer a good balance. You might experience some rain, but generally less than in the peak wet season, and the trails are usually in good condition. Crowds are also typically smaller than during the peak dry season, offering a more tranquil experience.
This itinerary describes a single-day hike, covering the round trip from Abraão to Dois Rios.
Early Morning (Approx. 7:00 AM - 8:00 AM): Departure from Abraão
Morning (Approx. 8:00 AM - 11:00 AM): Ascent and Forest Immersion
Midday (Approx. 11:00 AM - 1:00 PM): Arrival at Dois Rios
Afternoon (Approx. 1:00 PM - 4:00 PM): Return Journey
Late Afternoon (Approx. 4:00 PM onwards): Arrival back in Abraão
Important Notes:
The Trilha da Ilha Grande to Dois Rios is a popular day hike, but it requires careful planning to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. Given Ilha Grande's car-free nature, access to the island is solely by ferry from the mainland town of Angra dos Reis. Rio de Janeiro's international airports (GIG and SDU) are the primary gateways for international travellers. From Rio, a bus journey of approximately 3-4 hours will take you to Angra dos Reis. From Angra dos Reis, frequent ferry services operate to Abraão, the main village on Ilha Grande, taking around 1.5 to 2 hours. It is crucial to book ferry tickets in advance, especially during peak season, as they can sell out. Once on Ilha Grande, Abraão is the starting point for this hike. There are no specific permits required for this trail, as it is part of the protected national park and accessible to all visitors. However, it is essential to be physically prepared for a moderate to strenuous hike with significant elevation gain.
This is a day hike requiring no overnight accommodation. The trail starts and ends in Abraão, where a wide range of accommodation options are available, from budget hostels and pousadas (guesthouses) to more comfortable hotels. Visitors typically stay in Abraão before and after their hike to Dois Rios.
No specific permits are required to hike the Trilha da Ilha Grande from Abraão to Dois Rios. Ilha Grande is a protected ecological reserve, and its trails are generally open to the public. However, visitors must adhere to the park's regulations, which focus on conservation and responsible tourism. These typically include staying on marked trails, not littering, and respecting the natural environment. Information regarding park rules and conservation efforts can usually be found at visitor centres or information points in Abraão.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Ilha Grande Trail (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Ilha Grande Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Ilha Grande offers a wealth of activities beyond the Abraão to Dois Rios hike, catering to various interests:
Trail Conditions: The Trilha da Ilha Grande to Dois Rios is generally well-maintained, but conditions can vary. During the wet season (October to March), trails can become muddy, slippery, and overgrown. Steep sections may require careful footing. Always wear appropriate footwear.
Weather: Ilha Grande has a tropical climate. Be prepared for high humidity and sudden rain showers, especially outside the dry season. Start your hike early in the morning to avoid the midday heat and potential afternoon storms. Check the weather forecast before you set off.
Hydration and Nutrition: Carry ample water (at least 2-3 litres per person) and high-energy snacks. There are no facilities for purchasing food or water along the trail until you reach Dois Rios, and even there, options are limited. Dehydration and fatigue can be significant risks on longer hikes.
Insects: Mosquitoes and other biting insects are prevalent, particularly in the forest. Use effective insect repellent and consider wearing long sleeves and trousers, especially during dawn and dusk.
Wildlife: While Ilha Grande is home to diverse wildlife, including monkeys and various bird species, encounters are usually brief and non-threatening. Do not feed any animals, as this can disrupt their natural behaviour and health.
Navigation: The main trail to Dois Rios is relatively straightforward, but it's always wise to have a map or GPS device with offline maps. Inform someone in Abraão about your hiking plans, including your intended route and estimated return time.
Emergencies: In case of an emergency, mobile phone signal can be unreliable. The main village of Abraão has basic medical facilities and a police presence. For serious emergencies, evacuation may be necessary, which can be time-consuming and costly.
Swimming: If you choose to swim at Dois Rios, be aware of currents and conditions. The beach is generally calm, but always exercise caution.
Dois Rios Beach and Former Prison: The primary destination of this hike, Dois Rios beach is a beautiful, expansive stretch of sand with clear waters. The two rivers that give the beach its name are a notable feature. Adjacent to the beach is the former Instituto Penal Cândido Mendes, a large, imposing former prison complex. While access inside the prison is restricted (it now houses a university research centre), its exterior and historical significance are points of interest. The sheer scale of the complex against the natural beauty of the beach is a striking contrast.
Panoramic Viewpoints: Along the ascent from Abraão, there are several natural clearings and elevated points that offer spectacular panoramic views. These viewpoints provide excellent opportunities to appreciate the scale of the Atlantic rainforest, the coastline of Ilha Grande, and the distant islands and mainland. They are ideal spots for photography and to take a break while admiring the scenery.
Atlantic Rainforest Flora and Fauna: The trail itself is a journey through a rich ecosystem. Keep an eye out for the diverse plant life, including various species of bromeliads, orchids, ferns, and towering trees. Birdsong is constant, and if you are quiet and observant, you might spot monkeys, lizards, or other small forest creatures. The vibrant green of the rainforest is a constant visual delight.
Ilha Grande is a precious natural reserve, and practising Leave No Trace principles is crucial to preserving its beauty and ecological integrity for future visitors. As you hike the Trilha da Ilha Grande to Dois Rios, please adhere to the following guidelines:
By following these principles, you help ensure that Ilha Grande remains a pristine paradise.
