Turkey — Aksaray
Hike the Ihlara Valley Trail in Turkey, a moderate 14km route through a verdant gorge carved into volcanic terrain. This 4-5 hour walk follows the Melendiz River, revealing towering canyon walls and a lush microclimate distinct from Cappadocia's arid plains. Discover a historic landscape with hidden rock-cut churches along this scenic valley traverse.
Distance: 14.0 km
Elevation Gain: 200 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 4-5 hours
The Ihlara Valley Trail is a breathtaking 14-kilometre journey through a deep, verdant gorge carved into the volcanic landscape of central Anatolia. Unlike the arid, fairy-chimney-dotted plains typically associated with Cappadocia, Ihlara offers a lush microclimate defined by the winding Melendiz River and towering canyon walls that reach heights of up to 100 metres. This is not merely a nature walk; it is a pilgrimage through one of the world's most significant historical landscapes. Between the 4th and 14th centuries, the valley served as a secluded sanctuary for Byzantine monks, who carved thousands of dwellings and over 100 churches directly into the soft volcanic tuff. Today, the trail allows walkers to step back in time, moving between ancient frescoes and riverside tea houses, all while surrounded by the sound of rushing water and the shade of pistachio and walnut trees. It is a moderate day walk that combines geological wonder with profound cultural heritage, offering a serene alternative to the more crowded tourist hubs of the region.
The Ihlara Valley (Ihlara Vadisi) is a geological anomaly in the heart of Turkey. Formed millions of years ago by the eruption of Mount Hasan, a nearby stratovolcano, the region was covered in thick layers of volcanic ash and lava. Over millennia, the Melendiz River eroded these soft tuff layers, creating a steep-sided canyon that stretches for roughly 16 kilometres from Ihlara Village to Selime. The result is a sheltered oasis that remains significantly cooler and greener than the surrounding Anatolian plateau. The valley's unique topography made it an ideal hiding place for early Christians fleeing Roman persecution and, later, a centre for monastic life during the Byzantine Empire. The sheer density of rock-cut architecture is staggering; it is estimated that at one point, over 80,000 people lived within the canyon's walls.
Walking the Ihlara Valley Trail is an exercise in sensory immersion. The path follows the river closely, often crossing small wooden bridges and navigating narrow sections where the canyon walls seem to lean inward. The vegetation is surprisingly diverse, featuring wild olive trees, poplars, and dense thickets of reeds that provide a habitat for a variety of birdlife, including kingfishers and golden orioles. The trail is generally well-marked, but the terrain can be rocky and muddy in sections, particularly after rain. Most walkers choose to complete the 14-kilometre stretch from Ihlara Village to Selime, though shorter loops are possible by entering at the main tourist gate (the "360 steps") and exiting at Belisırma village. However, to truly appreciate the scale of the monastic settlements and the changing character of the canyon, the full point-to-point route is highly recommended.
The experience is punctuated by the opportunity to explore the "Cave Churches of Ihlara." These are not mere ruins; many contain vibrant, though weathered, frescoes depicting biblical scenes in styles ranging from primitive "iconoclastic" designs to sophisticated Byzantine artistry. The transition from the quiet, forested southern end of the valley to the dramatic, cathedral-like rock formations of Selime in the north provides a narrative arc to the walk that few other trails can match. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a birdwatcher, or simply a hiker looking for a unique landscape, Ihlara Valley delivers a world-class experience in a relatively compact timeframe.
The history of the Ihlara Valley is inextricably linked to the rise of Christianity in Anatolia. In the 4th century, Saint Gregory of Nazianzus, one of the Cappadocian Fathers, established a monastic community in the region. He advocated for a life of quiet contemplation and communal prayer, and the secluded Ihlara Valley provided the perfect environment for such a lifestyle. The soft volcanic rock allowed monks to easily excavate living quarters, refectories, and churches, creating a subterranean and cliff-side civilisation that remained largely invisible from the plateau above. This seclusion was vital during periods of Arab raids in the 7th and 8th centuries, as the valley served as a natural fortress.
The churches of Ihlara are unique because they represent a bridge between different artistic and theological eras. During the Iconoclastic period (726–843 AD), when the depiction of religious figures was banned, many churches were decorated with simple geometric patterns and symbolic crosses. After the ban was lifted, the "Golden Age" of Byzantine art saw the walls covered in elaborate frescoes. Unlike the churches in the Göreme Open Air Museum, which often show a unified "court style" from Constantinople, the Ihlara churches display a more provincial, diverse range of influences, including Syrian and Egyptian (Coptic) artistic elements. This suggests that the valley was a melting pot of Eastern Christian traditions.
As the Seljuk Turks moved into Anatolia in the 11th century, the valley underwent another cultural shift. Remarkably, evidence suggests that Christians and Muslims lived in relative harmony in the region for centuries. Some churches, such as the Kirkdamaltı Church (St. George), contain frescoes depicting Seljuk administrators alongside Christian saints, a rare testament to the multicultural history of the area. The monastic communities eventually declined following the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923, leaving behind the silent, hauntingly beautiful rock-cut structures that hikers explore today. The valley is now protected as a first-degree archaeological and natural site, ensuring that its dual legacy as a sanctuary of faith and a masterpiece of nature is preserved.
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The Ihlara Valley experiences a continental climate, but its depth creates a sheltered environment that can differ significantly from the nearby cities of Aksaray or Nevşehir. Choosing the right time to visit is crucial for both comfort and the quality of the scenery.
Spring (April to May): This is arguably the best time to walk the trail. The Melendiz River is at its highest volume due to snowmelt from Mount Hasan, and the valley floor is a carpet of wildflowers. The temperatures are mild, typically ranging from 15°C to 22°C, making the 14-kilometre distance feel manageable. The birdlife is most active during this period, and the fresh green leaves of the poplar trees provide a vibrant contrast to the red and grey canyon walls.
Autumn (September to October): Another excellent window for hiking. The summer heat has dissipated, and the valley takes on a golden hue as the fruit trees and poplars change colour. This is harvest season in the region, and you may see local villagers gathering walnuts or grapes near the Belisırma section. Daytime temperatures are pleasant, though evenings can become quite crisp. The river is lower and calmer, making the riverside paths easier to navigate.
Summer (June to August): While the valley is cooler than the surrounding plains, it can still reach 30°C or higher. The sun reflects off the canyon walls, creating pockets of intense heat. If hiking in summer, it is essential to start at dawn and carry significant amounts of water. The advantage of summer is the lush, full canopy of trees which provides ample shade along much of the riverbank. However, this is also the peak tourist season, and the central section near the main entrance can become crowded.
Winter (November to March): Winter brings a stark, quiet beauty to Ihlara. Snow is common, and the sight of white-capped canyon walls against the dark river is spectacular. However, the trail can be treacherous; the 360 steps at the main entrance often ice over, and the riverside paths can become extremely muddy or flooded. Many of the riverside tea houses close during this period. Only experienced hikers with proper waterproof gear and traction aids should attempt the full trail in mid-winter.
Early Morning: Arrival and Ihlara Village Start
Mid-Morning: The Church Cluster and Main Entrance
Midday: Belisırma Village Lunch Break
Afternoon: The Wild Northern Canyon
Late Afternoon: Selime Monastery Finale
Important Notes:
The Ihlara Valley is located in the Aksaray Province, approximately 80 kilometres from the popular tourist centre of Göreme. While many people visit as part of an organised "Green Tour," these tours usually only walk a 3-4 km section. To do the full 14 km, you must plan independently. The nearest major city is Aksaray, but most hikers base themselves in the smaller, more atmospheric town of Güzelyurt (15 km away) or in the central Cappadocian towns like Göreme, Uçhisar, or Ürgüp.
Fitness requirements are moderate. While the trail is mostly flat as it follows the river, the total distance of 14 km on uneven ground can be tiring. Furthermore, entering or exiting via the main gate involves a steep climb of 360 steps. Ensure you have downloaded offline maps (such as Maps.me or Gaia GPS), as mobile signal can be intermittent at the bottom of the canyon.
This is a day hike requiring no overnight accommodation within the valley itself. Camping is strictly prohibited inside the Ihlara Valley archaeological site to protect the historical structures and the natural environment.
Nearby Options:
No specific wilderness permits or hiking registrations are required to walk the Ihlara Valley. However, because the entire valley is a protected archaeological site and open-air museum, an entrance fee is mandatory. As of 2024, the entrance fee is approximately 15 Euros (payable in Turkish Lira), but prices are subject to frequent change due to local inflation.
Key Permit Information:
Logistics and Transport:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Ihlara Valley Trail (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Ihlara Valley Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Ihlara Valley is located in a region rich with geological and historical wonders. Consider these nearby attractions to complement your hike:
Terrain Hazards:
Environmental Hazards:
General Safety:
Ağaçaltı Church (Church under the Trees): Located near the main entrance, this is one of the most famous churches in the valley. Its frescoes are remarkably well-preserved, featuring a distinct blue background that is rare in the region. The central dome depicts the Ascension of Christ, and the walls show scenes from the life of Mary and the Magi.
Yılanlı Church (Church of the Snakes): This church is named after a fresco depicting four female sinners being bitten by snakes in hell. It is a fascinating example of the "didactic" nature of Byzantine art, intended to teach moral lessons to the monastic community. The church also contains images of the Last Judgement and the Crucifixion.
Sümbüllü Church (Hyacinth Church): This church is notable for its two-story facade and its sophisticated architectural details, including carved columns and arches that mimic traditional stone masonry. It was likely part of a larger monastery complex that included a refectory and sleeping quarters.
Kirkdamaltı Church (St. George): Located in the quieter northern section near Belisırma, this church is perched high on the cliff. It is historically significant because of an inscription mentioning the Seljuk Sultan Mesud II, proving that the Christian community continued to flourish under Turkish rule in the 13th century.
The Riverside Tea Houses: Between the main entrance and Belisırma, several enterprising locals have set up small tea gardens. Sitting on a "köşk" (a raised wooden platform with cushions) in the middle of the river while sipping hot Turkish tea is an essential Ihlara experience. It provides a moment of profound tranquility amidst the hike.
Selime Cathedral: At the very end of the trail, the Selime Monastery complex features a massive "cathedral" carved into the rock. The scale is immense, with towering pillars and a high vaulted ceiling. It is easy to imagine the chanting of monks echoing through these stone halls a thousand years ago.
The Ihlara Valley is a fragile ecosystem and a priceless historical archive. With thousands of visitors each year, the cumulative impact can be devastating if Leave No Trace principles are not followed. The frescoes, in particular, are extremely sensitive to human touch and environmental changes.
Guidelines for Responsible Hiking:
