New Zealand — Tuatapere
Hump Ridge Track: A 61km, 3-day moderate loop through New Zealand's Fiordland National Park. Traverse ancient podocarp rainforest, sub-alpine wilderness, and dramatic coastal vistas. This recently elevated Great Walk offers a pristine, secluded wilderness experience with stunning panoramas.
Distance: 61.0 km
Elevation Gain: 945 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 3 days
The Hump Ridge Track is a spectacular 61-kilometre loop journey that traverses some of the most diverse and untouched landscapes in the deep south of New Zealand. Located in the rugged Waitutu Forest within Fiordland National Park, this three-day adventure offers a unique blend of sub-alpine wilderness, ancient podocarp rainforest, and dramatic coastal scenery. Recently elevated to "Great Walk" status, the track represents a significant community achievement, having been originally conceived and built by the people of Tuatapere to revitalise their town following the decline of the local timber industry. The route takes walkers from the edge of the Southern Ocean, up onto the limestone tors of the Hump Ridge with panoramic views of Stewart Island and Lake Hauroko, and back down through historic milling sites featuring some of the largest wooden trestle bridges in the Southern Hemisphere. It is a journey through time, ecology, and the sheer resilience of the Southland spirit.
The Hump Ridge Track is often described as a "track of two halves," seamlessly blending the raw power of the sub-alpine environment with the lush, haunting beauty of a coastal rainforest. Unlike many other Great Walks that follow linear valleys or mountain passes, the Hump Ridge is a true loop, providing a constantly changing perspective of the Southland landscape. The journey begins at the Rarakau Carpark, where the air is thick with the scent of salt spray from Te Waewae Bay. From here, the track climbs steadily through varying forest zones—from coastal broadleaf to towering podocarps, and finally into the stunted, moss-draped beech forests of the sub-alpine zone.
The physical challenge of the track is concentrated primarily in the first day, where walkers ascend nearly 900 metres to reach the Okaka Lodge. This climb is rewarded with what many consider the finest views in the South Island. On a clear day, the vista extends across the Foveaux Strait to the jagged peaks of Rakiura/Stewart Island, while to the west, the vast, uninhabited wilderness of Fiordland stretches toward the horizon. The limestone tors that crown the ridge provide a surreal, lunar-like landscape that contrasts sharply with the dense greenery below.
The descent on Day 2 takes walkers back into the heart of the Waitutu Forest, a region of global ecological significance. This is one of the largest remaining areas of unmodified podocarp forest in New Zealand, where Rimu, Miro, and Kahikatea trees have stood for centuries. The track then follows the path of history, utilizing old tramlines and crossing massive wooden viaducts—relics of a bygone era when this forest was the centre of a bustling timber industry. The final day is a long but gentle coastal walk, following the shoreline back to the starting point, allowing walkers to reflect on the immense scale of the terrain they have just conquered. The Hump Ridge Track is not just a walk; it is an immersion into the soul of the deep south.
The history of the Hump Ridge region is a tapestry of Māori heritage, industrial ambition, and community conservation. For Ngāi Tahu, the mana whenua (traditional guardians) of this land, the Waitutu Forest and the surrounding coastline were vital sources of mahinga kai (food gathering). The area provided a wealth of resources, from the sea's bounty to the birds and plants of the forest. The spiritual connection to the land remains strong today, and the track passes through areas that hold deep significance for the local iwi.
In the early 20th century, the region became the site of one of New Zealand's most ambitious industrial undertakings. The Port Craig Timber Company established a massive operation here in the 1920s, aiming to harvest the vast podocarp forests. To transport the timber, an extensive network of tramlines was built, including four enormous wooden viaducts: the Edwin, Lowery, Maurice, and the legendary Percy Burn Viaduct. At 125 metres long and 36 metres high, the Percy Burn remains the largest wooden trestle bridge in the Southern Hemisphere. The settlement at Port Craig was, for a brief time, a thriving town with its own school, post office, and social hall, but the Great Depression and the sheer difficulty of the terrain eventually led to its abandonment in the 1930s. Today, the rusting machinery and the towering viaducts serve as haunting reminders of this industrial past.
The modern Hump Ridge Track was born from a different kind of ambition. In the 1990s, following the closure of the local sawmills, the community of Tuatapere sought a way to reinvent itself. The Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track Trust was formed, and through thousands of hours of volunteer labour and local fundraising, the track was carved out of the wilderness. It opened in 2001 as a private-public partnership, a unique model in New Zealand tramping. Its recent designation as a Great Walk by the Department of Conservation (DOC) is a testament to the track's world-class quality and the enduring dedication of the Tuatapere community.
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The Hump Ridge Track is located in one of the most weather-exposed regions of New Zealand. The "Roaring Forties"—the powerful westerly winds that circle the Southern Hemisphere—hit this coastline with full force, meaning weather conditions can change with terrifying speed. During the Great Walks season (November to April), the track is at its most accessible, but walkers must still be prepared for four seasons in a single day.
Summer (December to February): This is the most popular time to walk. Days are long, with twilight lasting until nearly 10:00 PM. Temperatures on the coast can be mild (15–20°C), but the ridge can remain chilly and windy. This is also the peak season for sandflies, particularly in the forested and coastal sections. The flora is in full bloom, and the birdlife is most active.
Autumn (March to April): Many experienced trampers prefer this season. The air is often crisper and clearer, providing the best visibility from the Hump Ridge. The sandfly population begins to dwindle, and the forest takes on a golden hue. However, the risk of early autumn storms increases, and temperatures at Okaka Lodge can drop below freezing overnight.
Spring (November): A beautiful but unpredictable time. The forest is lush and vibrant with new growth, and waterfalls are at their most spectacular due to spring rains. Snow can still linger on the higher sections of the ridge, and the track can be particularly muddy in places.
Winter (May to October): Outside the Great Walks season, the track is not managed in the same way. Huts have reduced facilities, and the ridge section can be covered in deep snow and ice. Only experienced alpine trampers with appropriate winter gear (ice axes, crampons) and navigation skills should attempt the track during this time. Avalanche risk is a genuine concern on the steeper sections of the Hump.
Day 1: Rarakau Carpark to Okaka Lodge
Day 2: Okaka Lodge to Port Craig Lodge
Day 3: Port Craig Lodge to Rarakau Carpark
Important Notes:
Planning for the Hump Ridge Track requires careful coordination, particularly regarding transport and fitness. The track is located in a remote corner of Southland, and the nearest service town is Tuatapere. Most walkers choose to base themselves in Tuatapere the night before starting to ensure an early departure. The Rarakau Carpark is approximately a 30-minute drive from the town centre along a sealed road.
Fitness is a critical component of preparation. While the track is well-maintained, the 900-metre ascent on Day 1 is a significant undertaking, especially with a multi-day pack. Walkers should be comfortable hiking for 8-9 hours on consecutive days. Training on hills and carrying a weighted pack in the weeks leading up to the trip is highly recommended. Additionally, because the track is a loop, you must ensure your vehicle is secure at the carpark or arrange a shuttle service from Tuatapere.
The Hump Ridge Track features two main lodges: Okaka Lodge and Port Craig Lodge. Following its upgrade to a Great Walk, these facilities are managed through a partnership between the Department of Conservation and the Hump Ridge Track Trust. There are options for both "Independent" walkers (staying in bunkrooms) and "Premium" walkers (staying in private rooms with additional amenities).
Hut/Lodge Facilities:
What is NOT Provided:
Booking Requirements:
To walk the Hump Ridge Track during the Great Walks season, you must have a confirmed booking for both Okaka and Port Craig lodges. There is no separate "permit" required beyond your lodge reservation, which serves as your authorisation to be on the track. The booking system is managed by the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track Trust in conjunction with the Department of Conservation.
Booking Process:
Costs (Approximate):
Check-in Procedures:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Hump Ridge Track (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Hump Ridge Track, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Southland region offers a wealth of additional experiences for those with extra time before or after their hike:
The Hump Ridge Track is a serious undertaking in a remote environment. Safety must be your primary concern throughout the journey. The most significant risk on this track is the weather. The Hump Ridge is extremely exposed to the wind and rain coming off the Southern Ocean. Hypothermia is a real danger, even in summer, if you are not properly equipped with waterproof and warm layers.
Track Conditions: While the track is a Great Walk and generally well-maintained, it can become very muddy after heavy rain, particularly in the forested sections of Day 2 and Day 3. The boardwalks on the ridge can be slippery when wet or icy. Always watch your footing, especially on the historic viaducts, which can be daunting for those with a fear of heights.
Communication: Cell phone coverage is non-existent for most of the track. There is limited coverage at the summit of the Hump and near Okaka Lodge, but it should not be relied upon. It is highly recommended to carry a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB), which can be hired from the track office in Tuatapere or from outdoor stores in Invercargill.
Water and Food: Ensure you carry enough water for each day's hike. While there is water at the lodges, there are few reliable sources on the climb up the Hump on Day 1. Always carry at least 2 litres of water. Ensure you have enough high-energy food to sustain you through long days of exertion.
Emergency Procedures: In the event of an injury or emergency, stay where you are and use your PLB. If you are at a lodge, notify the warden immediately. The lodges are equipped with radio communications for emergencies. Always fill out the intentions book at each lodge so the wardens know your planned movements.
The Hump Ridge Track is rich with small detours and landmarks that add depth to the experience:
The Loop Track (Okaka): Near Okaka Lodge, there is a short loop track that takes you through the limestone tors. This is a must-do at sunset or sunrise, providing 360-degree views of the Southern Ocean, Stewart Island, and the Fiordland mountains. The rock formations are ancient and provide excellent shelter from the wind for photography.
Percy Burn Viaduct: While the track crosses this viaduct, it is worth taking the time to walk down to the stream bed below (where permitted) to appreciate the sheer scale of the engineering. Standing beneath the massive wooden pillars gives you a true sense of the industrial effort required to build this structure in the 1920s.
Port Craig Schoolhouse: The original schoolhouse from the milling days has been preserved and now serves as a DOC hut for those not staying in the main lodge. It contains historical displays and photographs that tell the story of the families who lived in this isolated community.
Sand Hill Point: A short detour on Day 3 takes you to Sand Hill Point, where you can see the remains of the old telegraph line and enjoy views of the rugged coastline. It is a wild, wind-swept place that captures the essence of the Southland coast.
The Blowholes: On the final day, the track passes a series of rocky outcrops where the tide is forced through narrow gaps, creating spectacular plumes of spray. This is most impressive during high tide or after a storm.
The Waitutu Forest is a pristine and ecologically sensitive environment. As a walker, you have a responsibility to minimise your impact on this landscape. The Hump Ridge Track Trust and DOC work hard to protect this area, and all visitors are expected to follow the Leave No Trace principles.
Key Responsibilities:
