New Zealand — Nelson
Walk New Zealand's Heaphy Track, a 78.4km moderate route through Kahurangi National Park. This ancient trail transforms from Golden Bay's lush valleys to the wild West Coast's salt-sprayed shores over 4-6 days. Traverse diverse landscapes, from beech forests and fern-filled ravines to rugged coastal cliffs, offering varied panoramas and a true wilderness immersion.
Distance: 78.4 km
Elevation Gain: 1500 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 4-6 days
The Heaphy Track is the longest of New Zealand's Great Walks, stretching 78.4 kilometres across the diverse landscapes of Kahurangi National Park. Located at the northwestern tip of the South Island, this ancient trail connects the lush, golden valleys of Golden Bay with the wild, salt-sprayed coastline of the West Coast. Unlike many other Great Walks that focus on a single landscape type, the Heaphy is a journey of constant transformation. Over the course of four to six days, walkers traverse through ancient podocarp and beech forests, across expansive sub-alpine tussock downs, and finally through groves of prehistoric nikau palms that fringe the roaring Tasman Sea. It is a landscape of immense geological variety, where the ground beneath your feet shifts from granite and marble to limestone and sandstone, reflecting a history spanning hundreds of millions of years.
The track follows a route used for centuries by Māori to transport pounamu (greenstone) from the West Coast to the east. Today, it remains a sanctuary for some of New Zealand's most iconic and endangered wildlife, including the great spotted kiwi (roroa), the carnivorous Powelliphanta snail, and the rare takahe. Because the track is open year-round and features a relatively gentle gradient compared to the alpine passes of the southern Great Walks, it is accessible to a wide range of fitness levels. However, its length and the remoteness of the Kahurangi wilderness demand thorough preparation and respect for the ever-changing weather conditions of the South Island's northern ranges.
The Heaphy Track is often described as a "botanical journey through time." Its primary appeal lies in the sheer variety of ecosystems it traverses. Starting from the Aorere Valley in Golden Bay, the track climbs steadily through lush beech forest, where the air is thick with the scent of damp earth and moss. As you reach the higher elevations of Perry Saddle, the forest gives way to the Gouland Downs—a vast, undulating landscape of tussock grass, limestone outcrops, and "enchanted" patches of beech forest. This sub-alpine plateau feels like a world unto itself, often shrouded in mist that adds a prehistoric atmosphere to the journey. The downs are home to the largest population of great spotted kiwi in the country, and the haunting call of these nocturnal birds is a frequent soundtrack to nights spent in the remote huts.
As the track begins its long descent toward the West Coast, the vegetation undergoes a dramatic shift. The beech trees are replaced by podocarps like rimu and kahikatea, and eventually, the first nikau palms appear. By the time you reach the mouth of the Heaphy River, you are in a true coastal rainforest. The final section of the track is a spectacular coastal walk, winding along sandy beaches and rocky headlands, with the turquoise waters of the Tasman Sea crashing against the shore. The sight of nikau palms leaning over the surf is one of the most iconic images of the New Zealand wilderness.
Logistically, the Heaphy Track presents a unique challenge: the two trailheads (Brown Hut and Kohaihai) are separated by a massive mountain range. While the walk is 78.4 kilometres, the drive between the two ends is approximately 450 kilometres and takes about seven hours. This necessitates careful planning regarding transport, whether through shuttle services, car relocations, or even scenic flights. Despite this hurdle, the Heaphy remains a favourite for those seeking a sense of true wilderness and a deep connection with New Zealand's natural heritage. It is a track that rewards patience and observation, offering a different perspective with every kilometre travelled.
The history of the Heaphy Track is a rich tapestry of Māori exploration, European surveying, and early colonial ambition. For centuries, the route was known to Māori as a vital link in the pounamu (greenstone) trade. Ngāi Tahu and other iwi (tribes) used the trail to transport the precious stone from the West Coast rivers to the settlements of the east and north. The track was not merely a physical path but a cultural artery, steeped in stories and significance. Evidence of Māori occupation, including stone tools and middens, has been found at the mouth of the Heaphy River, indicating that this coastal area has been a site of human activity for hundreds of years.
The first recorded European exploration of the area took place in 1846, when Thomas Brunner and Charles Heaphy, guided by Kehu (a skilled Māori guide), travelled along the West Coast. Heaphy, a surveyor and artist, was struck by the beauty of the region, though the party suffered immense hardships during their journey. It wasn't until the 1860s, during the gold rush era, that the route was formally surveyed as a potential road. James Mackay, a government official, and John Lewis were instrumental in exploring the inland sections, including the downs that now bear Mackay's name. The goal was to create a reliable overland connection between the goldfields of the West Coast and the settled areas of Nelson and Golden Bay.
While the ambitious plans for a dray road never fully materialised, the route remained in use by prospectors, surveyors, and early adventurers. In the early 20th century, the track began to gain recognition as a recreational route. The establishment of Kahurangi National Park in 1996 further cemented the track's status as a protected wilderness area. Today, the track is managed by the Department of Conservation as one of the Great Walks, ensuring that its historical and natural values are preserved for future generations. Walking the Heaphy is, in many ways, walking in the footsteps of those early explorers, feeling the same sense of awe at the scale and diversity of the New Zealand backcountry.
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The Heaphy Track is unique among the Great Walks because it is open and walkable throughout the year. However, the experience varies significantly depending on the season. Because the track spans from sea level to nearly 1,000 metres, walkers must be prepared for a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions regardless of when they visit.
Summer (December to February): This is the most popular time to walk the track. The days are long, and the weather is generally more stable. The coastal sections are stunning in the summer sun, and the sub-alpine downs offer a cool reprieve from the heat of the lowlands. However, this is also the peak season for sandflies, particularly on the West Coast end. Huts book out months in advance during this period.
Autumn (March to May): Many experienced trampers consider autumn the best time for the Heaphy. The air is crisp and clear, the summer crowds have thinned, and the sandflies are less aggressive. The forest colours are vibrant, and the stable weather often provides the best views from the James Mackay and Perry Saddle lookouts. From 1 May, the track also opens to mountain bikers, adding a different energy to the trail.
Winter (June to August): Winter on the Heaphy is a serene and quiet experience. While the higher sections around Perry Saddle and Gouland Downs can experience frost and occasional snow, the coastal sections remain relatively mild. The huts are equipped with wood burners, making for cosy evenings. Winter walkers need to be prepared for shorter daylight hours and the possibility of heavy rain, which can make river crossings more challenging and the track muddier.
Spring (September to November): Spring brings a burst of new growth to the rainforest and the flowering of alpine plants on the downs. The birdlife is particularly active during this time. However, spring is also the wettest season in Kahurangi National Park. Frequent storms can roll in from the Tasman Sea, bringing heavy rain and high winds. Walkers must be vigilant about river levels and track conditions during this transitional period.
Day 1: Brown Hut to Perry Saddle Hut
Day 2: Perry Saddle Hut to James Mackay Hut
Day 3: James Mackay Hut to Lewis Hut
Day 4: Lewis Hut to Heaphy Hut
Day 5: Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai
Important Notes:
The Heaphy Track requires more logistical planning than many other Great Walks due to the distance between the trailheads. Whether you start at the Golden Bay end (Brown Hut) or the West Coast end (Kohaihai), you must arrange transport to return to your starting point or move your vehicle. Most walkers base themselves in Nelson, Motueka, or Takaka before starting, or Westport/Karamea if finishing on the West Coast. Shuttle services are available and highly recommended, as they handle the long drive around the mountains. Some walkers opt for a car relocation service, where a driver moves your vehicle from one end to the other while you walk.
Fitness requirements are moderate. While the track is well-graded and lacks the steep alpine climbs of the Milford or Routeburn, the daily distances (up to 24 km) can be taxing. Ensure you have completed several full-day hikes with a weighted pack before attempting the track. If you are mountain biking during the winter season, you should be an intermediate-level rider comfortable with long distances and potentially muddy conditions.
There are seven Department of Conservation (DOC) huts and nine designated campsites along the Heaphy Track. During the Great Walks season, these must be booked in advance through the DOC website. The huts vary in size, accommodating between 8 and 28 people.
Hut Facilities:
Campsites:
Costs: Prices vary depending on the season and whether you are a New Zealand resident or an international visitor. Generally, hut fees range from NZ$37 to NZ$55 per night for residents. Campsites are significantly cheaper, usually around NZ$10 to NZ$16 per night.
To walk the Heaphy Track, you do not need a "permit" in the traditional sense, but you must have confirmed bookings for every night you spend on the track, whether in a hut or at a campsite. The Department of Conservation (DOC) manages the booking system, and it is essential to book well in advance, especially for the summer months (December to February) and public holidays.
Booking Process:
Fees and Cancellations:
Hut Wardens: During the peak season, most huts are staffed by DOC wardens. They are there to check bookings, provide weather updates, and ensure the safety and comfort of all walkers. They are a wealth of knowledge about the local flora, fauna, and history, so don't hesitate to ask them questions.
Precisely traced GPX for the Heaphy Track, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The regions surrounding the Heaphy Track—Golden Bay and the West Coast—are packed with additional adventures. Consider adding a few days to your itinerary to explore these areas:
While the Heaphy Track is well-maintained, it is a remote wilderness journey. Safety should be your primary concern. The weather in Kahurangi National Park can change with startling speed, and the track's length means you are often several days away from help.
Weather Awareness: Always check the latest forecast from MetService before you start. Be prepared for heavy rain, which can cause rivers to rise rapidly. While the major rivers are bridged, smaller side streams can become impassable during extreme rainfall. If a stream looks unsafe to cross, wait for the water level to drop—it usually happens quickly once the rain stops.
Hypothermia: Even in summer, the Gouland Downs can be cold, wet, and windy. Hypothermia is a real risk if you become wet and tired. Carry adequate warm clothing and a waterproof jacket at all times. Know the signs of hypothermia (shivering, confusion, slurred speech) and how to treat it.
Communication: There is no mobile phone coverage on the track. Carrying a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is highly recommended. In an emergency, a PLB is the most reliable way to alert search and rescue services. Satellite messengers (like Garmin inReach) are also excellent for non-emergency communication with family.
Sandflies and Wasps: Sandflies are a major nuisance on the West Coast. Their bites are itchy and can become infected if scratched. Use a strong repellent and wear long sleeves and trousers in the evenings. In late summer, German and common wasps can be prevalent in the beech forests. If you are allergic to wasp stings, ensure you carry an EpiPen or appropriate antihistamines.
Track Conditions: After heavy rain or storms, the track may have fallen trees or minor slips. DOC wardens will usually provide updates, but always exercise caution. If you are mountain biking, be aware that the track can be slippery and technical in sections.
The Heaphy Track offers several worthwhile detours and landmarks that shouldn't be missed:
Flinders Lookout: A short, 15-minute walk from Perry Saddle Hut. It offers a 360-degree view of the Aorere Valley, the Dragon's Teeth peaks, and the distant Tasman Mountains. It is the perfect spot for sunrise or sunset.
The Enchanted Forest: Located on the Gouland Downs between Perry Saddle and Saxon Huts. This is a small, isolated stand of beech trees that has survived in the middle of the tussock downs. The trees are stunted and covered in thick moss, creating a magical, fairy-tale atmosphere.
Gouland Downs Hut: Even if you aren't staying here, stop to visit this historic hut. Built in the 1930s, it is the oldest hut on the track and provides a glimpse into the early days of tramping in New Zealand. The nearby limestone caves and outcrops are also worth exploring.
The Heaphy River Mouth: Spend some time exploring the area around Heaphy Hut. The meeting of the dark, tannin-stained river water and the turquoise sea is a beautiful sight. The beach is littered with bleached driftwood, and the surrounding nikau groves are home to many native birds.
Crayfish Point: On the final day's walk to Kohaihai, this point offers a dramatic view of the coastline. If the tide is low, you can walk around the rocks; otherwise, use the high-tide track that climbs over the headland through the forest.
Kahurangi National Park is a precious wilderness area, and it is our collective responsibility to protect it. The "Leave No Trace" principles are essential for maintaining the integrity of the Heaphy Track ecosystem.
