USA — Honolulu
Scale Oahu's iconic Haiku Stairs, the "Stairway to Heaven," a very challenging 6.4km ascent clinging to a dramatic ridgeline. This demanding route rises 3,922 steps through lush valleys to mist-shrouded summits, offering unparalleled panoramas of the Ko'olau Mountain Range. Allow 4-6 hours for this unforgettable, visually arresting Hawaiian adventure.
Distance: 6.4 km
Elevation Gain: 853 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 4-6 hours
The Haiku Stairs, colloquially known as the "Stairway to Heaven," represent one of the most iconic, controversial, and visually arresting landmarks in the Hawaiian Islands. Comprising 3,922 steel steps that cling precariously to the near-vertical ridgeline of the Ko'olau Mountain Range on the island of Oahu, this trail offers a physical and psychological challenge unlike any other. Rising from the lush Haiku Valley to the mist-shrouded summit of Pu'u Keahi a Kahoe, the stairs were originally constructed during World War II to provide access to a top-secret radio station. Today, they stand as a monument to mid-century engineering and a flashpoint for debates regarding land use, tourism, and conservation. It is imperative to note that as of 2024, the Haiku Stairs are officially closed to the public, and the City and County of Honolulu has commenced a multi-million dollar project to dismantle the structure. Accessing the stairs is illegal, constitutes trespassing, and carries significant legal and financial penalties.
The Haiku Stairs are a series of galvanized steel ladders and steps that traverse the spine of the Ko'olau Range, providing a direct, albeit punishing, route to the clouds. The trail is famous for its "verticality"—in many sections, the stairs are so steep that they resemble a ladder more than a staircase, requiring hikers to use their hands to maintain balance and momentum. The sheer drop-offs on either side of the narrow ridge offer panoramic views of the windward coast, including Kaneohe Bay, the H-3 Viaduct, and the emerald-green amphitheatre of the Haiku Valley. When the weather is clear, the vista extends across the turquoise waters of the Pacific, but more often than not, the summit is enveloped in a thick, ethereal mist that gives the trail its "heavenly" moniker.
The experience of the stairs is defined by the rhythm of the metal. Each section is numbered, allowing those who attempt the climb to track their progress against the nearly 4,000 steps. The ascent is divided into several distinct stages, beginning with a relatively flat approach through dense tropical vegetation before hitting the first "ladder" section. From there, the trail becomes a relentless test of cardiovascular endurance and leg strength. The environment changes rapidly as elevation is gained; the humid, stagnant air of the valley floor gives way to cool, buffeting trade winds and the unique flora of the Hawaiian cloud forest. Mosses, ferns, and endemic shrubs cling to the rusted railings, and the sound of the wind whistling through the steel structure creates a haunting, industrial soundtrack to the natural beauty of the mountains.
Despite its beauty, the Haiku Stairs have been a source of intense local friction for decades. The primary access point lies within a residential neighbourhood in Kaneohe, leading to years of complaints regarding noise, litter, and illegal parking. Furthermore, the age of the structure—much of which has not been formally maintained since the early 2000s—poses significant safety risks. Landslides, rusted bolts, and the extreme weather conditions of the Ko'olau crest have rendered sections of the stairs unstable. The decision to dismantle the stairs in 2024 marks the end of an era for Oahu's hiking community, transitioning the "Stairway to Heaven" from a physical challenge into a piece of historical lore.
The origins of the Haiku Stairs are rooted in the urgent military requirements of the Second World War. In 1942, the United States Navy sought to establish a high-powered, low-frequency radio station capable of communicating with naval vessels across the vast distances of the Pacific Ocean, reaching as far as Tokyo and the shores of India. The unique topography of the Haiku Valley—a natural bowl surrounded by high, steep ridges—provided the ideal environment for an antenna system. To facilitate the construction and maintenance of the radio cables and the transmitter building at the summit, a wooden ladder system was built into the mountainside.
The engineering feat was extraordinary. Workers hauled materials up the vertical cliffs, often in treacherous conditions, to install the Alexanderson alternator—a massive piece of technology that powered the station. In the mid-1950s, the wooden stairs were replaced with the galvanized steel sections that remain today. When the Navy decommissioned the station, the United States Coast Guard took over the site, using it for an Omega Navigation System station. It was during this period, in the 1970s and early 80s, that the stairs became a popular, albeit unofficial, destination for hikers seeking the ultimate Oahu view.
In 1987, the Coast Guard officially closed the stairs to the public due to vandalism and safety concerns. Since then, the stairs have existed in a legal limbo. In 2003, the City and County of Honolulu spent nearly US$900,000 to repair the stairs with the intention of reopening them, but land-use disputes with the Department of Hawaiian Home Lands and opposition from local residents stalled the project indefinitely. Over the following two decades, a "cat and mouse" game developed between hikers and security guards, with thousands of people attempting the climb under the cover of darkness to avoid detection. The cultural significance of the area to Native Hawaiians is also profound; the Ko'olau mountains are considered sacred, and the ridgelines are often associated with traditional paths and spiritual boundaries. The modern debate over the stairs has frequently touched upon the balance between recreational access and the preservation of 'āina (the land).
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
Oahu's tropical climate means that the Haiku Stairs do not experience traditional four-season shifts, but the weather on the Ko'olau ridgeline is notoriously volatile and can change within minutes. The "dry" season (April to September) generally offers the best chance for clear views and stable footing. During these months, the trade winds are consistent, providing a cooling breeze that is essential during the strenuous ascent. However, even in the height of summer, the summit of Pu'u Keahi a Kahoe can be shrouded in "orographic lift" clouds, where moist air is forced up the mountain slopes, cooling and condensing into thick fog.
The "wet" season (October to March) brings increased rainfall and higher humidity. Rain makes the steel steps incredibly slippery and increases the risk of mudslides on the approach trails. During heavy rain events, the Haiku Valley can experience flash flooding, and the wind speeds on the ridge can reach dangerous levels, making it difficult to stand, let alone climb narrow ladders. The "VOG" (volcanic smog) from the Big Island can also occasionally drift over to Oahu, obscuring views and creating hazy, humid conditions that make physical exertion more difficult.
For those who historically attempted the climb, the "golden hour" just before sunrise was the most coveted time. Reaching the summit as the sun rose over the Mokulua Islands and Kaneohe Bay provided a spectacular light show, with the green ridges of the island catching the first rays of light. However, this also meant navigating the most dangerous sections of the stairs in the dark with headlamps, often in damp, pre-dawn conditions. Regardless of the time of year, the temperature at the summit is significantly cooler than at sea level, often dropping by 5–10 degrees Celsius, necessitating extra layers even in a tropical environment.
Stage 1: The Valley Approach
Stage 2: The First Ladder and Platform
Stage 3: The Ridge Spine
Stage 4: The Summit and Radio Station
Important Notes:
Because the Haiku Stairs are closed and illegal to access, "preparation" in the traditional sense involves understanding the legal risks and the physical demands of the alternative legal routes. For any high-elevation hike on Oahu, fitness is paramount. The vertical gain of over 800 metres in a short distance requires excellent cardiovascular health and strong stabiliser muscles for navigating uneven terrain. If you are planning to hike the legal Moanalua Middle Ridge to reach the summit, you must be prepared for a much longer, muddier, and more technical day than the stairs would have provided.
Logistically, Honolulu is the primary base for any Oahu adventure. The city offers a full range of services, from high-end hotels in Waikiki to outdoor gear shops in the Ala Moana and Ward areas. Before attempting any major hike, it is essential to coordinate transport. Parking near trailheads in residential areas is often restricted, and "Aloha" spirit is best maintained by respecting local residents and using designated parking areas or ride-sharing services.
The Haiku Stairs and the surrounding Ko'olau trails are strictly day hikes. There are no overnight facilities, huts, or legal campsites on the ridgeline or at the summit.
Accommodation Details:
There is no permit system for the Haiku Stairs because the trail is closed. Any presence on the stairs is considered third-degree trespassing under Hawaii Revised Statutes. The City and County of Honolulu has taken a "zero tolerance" approach to the stairs in recent years, particularly as the dismantling project has begun.
Legal Consequences:
The Legal Alternative: If your goal is to reach the summit of Pu'u Keahi a Kahoe (the top of the stairs), you can legally do so via the Moanalua Middle Ridge trail. This trail starts in Moanalua Valley Park. While no permit is currently required for day use of this trail, you must adhere to park hours (generally sunrise to sunset) and park only in designated stalls. Always check the City and County of Honolulu Department of Parks and Recreation website for the latest rules regarding Moanalua Valley access.
Precisely traced GPX for the Haiku Stairs, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Windward side of Oahu is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts and those looking to experience the natural beauty of Hawaii away from the crowds of Waikiki:
Structural Integrity: The Haiku Stairs were built over 80 years ago. While the 2003 repairs addressed some issues, the structure has been battered by decades of tropical storms, landslides, and lack of maintenance. Rusted bolts, bent railings, and sections where the mountain has eroded beneath the stairs make the climb inherently dangerous. The dismantling process involves removing sections of the stairs, meaning anyone attempting to climb them now may encounter literal gaps in the path over thousand-foot drops.
Weather Hazards: The Ko'olau Range creates its own microclimate. Hikers can start in bright sunshine and be in a life-threatening storm within thirty minutes. Hypothermia is a genuine risk if you become wet and are exposed to the high winds on the ridge. Lightning is also a concern; being on a giant metal staircase during an electrical storm is an extremely high-risk scenario.
The "Stairway to Hell" (The Descent): Many hikers find the descent more dangerous than the climb. The steepness of the stairs means you are constantly looking down into the abyss, which can trigger vertigo. The repetitive motion of descending nearly 4,000 steps causes significant "jelly legs," increasing the likelihood of a trip or fall. A slip on the stairs often results in serious injury due to the hard metal edges and the steep gradient.
Emergency Services: Rescues on the Haiku Stairs or the Moanalua Ridge are complex, dangerous, and expensive. The Honolulu Fire Department (HFD) often has to use helicopters for "short-haul" extractions, which puts rescue personnel at risk due to the unpredictable winds and narrow ridges. In Hawaii, there have been ongoing discussions about billing hikers for the cost of rescues if they were engaged in illegal activity or were grossly negligent.
Legal Risk: Beyond physical safety, the legal safety of hikers is at risk. Security guards are instructed to call HPD immediately upon spotting trespassers. Do not underestimate the commitment of the local authorities to closing this trail permanently.
Moanalua Middle Ridge (The Legal Route): This is the primary "side trip" for those who want the summit experience without the illegality of the stairs. It is a 16-kilometre round trip that is significantly more difficult than the stairs. It involves narrow "knife-edge" ridges, rope sections, and deep mud. The reward is reaching the same radio building and summit views as the stairs, but via a rugged, natural mountain path.
The "Swing" (Historical): For several years, a makeshift swing was attached to a power line or structure near the summit, allowing hikers to swing out over the valley. This was incredibly dangerous and has since been removed by authorities. It remains a popular image in social media archives of the trail.
The H-3 Viaduct Views: From the lower sections of the stairs, you get a unique bird's-eye view of the Interstate H-3, often cited as one of the most expensive and beautiful highways ever built. The way the viaduct curves through the Haiku Valley, supported by massive pillars to minimise the footprint on the valley floor, is a testament to modern engineering that contrasts with the mid-century steel of the stairs.
Endemic Flora: The upper reaches of the trail are a great place to see endemic Hawaiian plants like the 'Ōhi'a Lehua with its bright red pom-pom flowers, and various species of Lobeliads. These plants are found nowhere else on Earth and are part of a delicate ecosystem that is easily damaged by off-trail hiking.
The Ko'olau Mountains are a vital watershed for the island of Oahu and home to numerous endangered species. Whether you are on a legal trail or visiting the botanical gardens, adhering to Leave No Trace principles is essential for the preservation of Hawaii's unique environment.
Guidelines for Oahu's Ridges:
By following these principles, you help ensure that the natural beauty of the Ko'olau Range remains intact for future generations, even as man-made structures like the Haiku Stairs are removed.
