Spain — Girona
Hike the GR92, Spain's stunning Costa Brava Trail, a 200km moderate route tracing Catalonia's rugged coastline for 10-14 days. Traverse dramatic cliffs, secluded coves, and charming fishing villages from the French border to Tossa de Mar. This diverse coastal path offers a scenic blend of natural beauty and historic sites.
Distance: 200.0 km
Elevation Gain: 5000 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 10-14 days
The GR92, also known as the Costa Brava Trail, is a spectacular long-distance hiking route that traces the rugged and beautiful coastline of Catalonia, Spain. Stretching approximately 200 kilometres from the French border at Portbou down to the town of Tossa de Mar, this trail offers an unparalleled journey through diverse landscapes, from dramatic cliffs and hidden coves to charming fishing villages and ancient ruins. It's a path that blends natural beauty with rich history, providing a truly immersive experience of the Mediterranean coast.
The GR92 is more than just a coastal path; it's a sensory expedition. As you traverse its length, the scent of pine and wild herbs mingles with the salty sea air. The soundscape shifts from the gentle lapping of waves on sandy beaches to the crashing surf against sheer rock faces. The visual panorama is a constant feast: turquoise waters, dramatic cliffs plunging into the sea, vibrant wildflowers in spring, and the golden hues of autumn foliage. The trail is well-marked with the characteristic red and white stripes of the Gran Recorrido (GR) network, ensuring navigation is generally straightforward, though some sections can be challenging due to steep ascents and descents.
This route is divided into numerous stages, each offering its unique character. You'll pass through iconic towns like Cadaqués, a picturesque village that has long attracted artists, and Calella de Palafrugell, with its whitewashed houses and traditional fishing boats. Beyond the villages, the trail delves into protected natural parks, such as the Cap de Creus Natural Park, Spain's easternmost point, known for its wind-sculpted rock formations and stark beauty. Further south, the coastline becomes softer, with more accessible beaches and charming coves (calas) perfect for a refreshing dip. The GR92 is a journey that caters to a range of hikers, from those seeking a challenging multi-day adventure to those who prefer to tackle sections as day hikes, using the numerous coastal towns as bases.
The trail's moderate difficulty rating reflects its varied terrain. While there are flat stretches along promenades and coastal paths, expect significant elevation changes as the route navigates headlands and climbs to viewpoints. The path can be narrow and rocky in places, requiring sturdy footwear and a degree of sure-footedness. The best times to walk are spring and autumn, when the weather is pleasant, the crowds are thinner, and the natural scenery is at its most vibrant. Summer can be very hot, making daytime hiking challenging, while winter can bring cooler temperatures and occasional rain, though it offers a quieter experience.
The Costa Brava, meaning "Wild Coast," has a history stretching back millennia. The GR92 follows ancient paths that were once used by Iberian tribes, Roman traders, and medieval fishermen. Evidence of these past civilisations can be found scattered along the route, from Roman ruins and medieval watchtowers to the remnants of old fishing trails that have been trodden for centuries.
The region's strategic coastal location meant it was frequently a target for pirates and invaders throughout history. Many of the small watchtowers and fortified structures that dot the coastline served as lookouts and defence points. The trail often passes through these historical sites, offering a tangible connection to the past and a glimpse into the lives of those who inhabited this rugged shore.
In more recent times, the Costa Brava became a popular destination for artists and writers, drawn by its dramatic landscapes and unique light. Salvador Dalí, for instance, found inspiration in the surreal rock formations of Cap de Creus and established his home in nearby Portlligat. The trail's passage through towns like Cadaqués allows hikers to walk in the footsteps of these cultural figures, experiencing the very vistas that fuelled their creativity.
The GR92 itself is part of a larger European network of long-distance footpaths, designed to connect significant natural and cultural heritage sites. Its development as a marked trail has helped to preserve these ancient routes and make them accessible to a wider audience, while also promoting sustainable tourism in the region.
The GR92 offers a different experience depending on the season, each with its own charm and challenges.
Spring (April-June): This is arguably the best time to walk the GR92. The weather is typically mild and pleasant, with average temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. The landscape bursts into colour with wildflowers, and the sea is often calm and inviting. The days are longer, providing ample time for hiking. However, occasional spring showers are possible, and the sea might still be too cool for swimming for some.
Summer (July-August): While the Costa Brava is a popular summer destination, hiking the GR92 during these months can be challenging due to high temperatures, often exceeding 30°C. The coastal paths can become very hot and exposed, with limited shade. If hiking in summer, it's essential to start very early, take frequent breaks, stay hydrated, and consider shorter sections or focusing on coastal towns. The sea is warm and perfect for swimming, and the atmosphere in the coastal villages is vibrant.
Autumn (September-October): Another excellent season for hiking. The intense heat of summer subsides, and the weather remains warm and sunny, with average temperatures between 18°C and 28°C. The sea is still warm enough for swimming, and the autumn light casts a beautiful glow over the landscape. The crowds thin out considerably after August, offering a more tranquil experience. The vegetation may start to turn golden, adding to the scenic beauty.
Winter (November-March): Winter on the Costa Brava is generally mild compared to inland Spain, with average temperatures between 10°C and 18°C. However, it is also the wettest period, and strong winds can occur, especially along the exposed coast. Some coastal facilities and restaurants may have reduced hours or be closed. Despite the potential for rain, winter offers a peaceful and uncrowded experience, with dramatic seascapes and the opportunity to see the coastline in a different light. It's crucial to check weather forecasts carefully and be prepared for rain and wind.
Day 1: Portbou to Llançà
Day 2: Llançà to El Port de la Selva
Day 3: El Port de la Selva to Cadaqués
Day 4: Cadaqués to Roses
Day 5: Roses to Empuriabrava / Sant Pere Pescador
Day 6: Sant Pere Pescador to L'Escala
Day 7: L'Escala to Begur
Day 8: Begur to Palafrugell (Calella de Palafrugell)
Day 9: Palafrugell to Palamós
Day 10: Palamós to Tossa de Mar
Notes:
The GR92 is a well-established trail, but proper planning is still crucial for an enjoyable experience. Given its length and the availability of accommodation in numerous towns, it's feasible to walk it in sections or as a continuous trek. The closest major city with an airport is Girona. From Girona, you can take a bus or train to reach the northern trailhead at Portbou or other coastal towns. If driving, there is parking available in Portbou, but it's advisable to arrange transport back from your endpoint or use public transport for a one-way journey.
Logistics: For a continuous trek, consider arranging luggage transfer services between accommodations. This allows you to hike with a lighter day pack. Alternatively, plan your route to coincide with towns that have good public transport links, enabling you to return to your starting point or move to a new section easily.
Base Town/City: Girona is an excellent base for accessing the northern sections of the trail. For the southern sections, towns like Palafrugell or Palamós offer good amenities and transport connections. Many coastal towns along the route also provide excellent bases for day hikes.
The GR92 passes through numerous coastal towns and villages, offering a wide range of accommodation options. There are no designated "huts" in the same sense as alpine trails; instead, you will find:
Booking Requirements: It is highly recommended to book accommodation in advance, especially during the peak summer season (July-August) and shoulder seasons (spring and autumn). Popular towns like Cadaqués and Tossa de Mar can fill up quickly. Booking online through platforms like Booking.com, Airbnb, or directly with hotels is advisable.
Facilities Provided: Typically include private rooms, en-suite bathrooms, bedding, and towels. Apartments and campsites will have kitchen facilities. Hotels often offer breakfast and other services.
What's NOT Provided: Unless you are in a self-catering apartment or campsite, you will need to arrange your own meals. Cooking equipment is generally not provided in hotels or guesthouses.
Seasonal Availability: Accommodation is generally available year-round, but options may be limited in smaller villages during the winter months. Campsites are typically open from spring to autumn.
Costs: Prices vary significantly by location, season, and type of accommodation. Expect to pay anywhere from €40-€60 per night for a budget guesthouse or campsite, up to €100-€200+ per night for a mid-range to high-end hotel, especially in popular areas during peak season.
This is a day hike requiring no overnight accommodation.
The GR92 (Costa Brava Trail) does not require any specific permits for hiking. It is a public footpath managed by local authorities and the Catalan government. You are free to walk the trail at any time of year without needing to obtain special permission.
However, it is always advisable to check for any local advisories or temporary closures that might affect specific sections of the trail, particularly in natural parks or areas prone to landslides or fire risk. These can usually be found on the websites of the relevant regional park authorities or the Catalan tourism board.
Accommodation: As mentioned in the planning section, booking accommodation in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak seasons. This is not a permit requirement but a practical necessity to secure your lodging.
Camping: Wild camping is generally not permitted along the GR92, especially in natural parks and near coastal areas. Designated campsites are the only legal option for camping. Always adhere to local regulations regarding camping to avoid fines and protect the environment.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Gr92 Costa Brava (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Gr92 Costa Brava, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Costa Brava offers a wealth of activities beyond hiking:
Trail Conditions: The GR92 is generally well-maintained and marked. However, sections can be steep, rocky, and uneven. Be prepared for ascents and descents, especially when navigating headlands. In wet weather, some paths can become slippery.
Weather: While the Costa Brava enjoys a Mediterranean climate, weather can change. Summers can be very hot, requiring careful hydration and sun protection. Spring and autumn offer milder temperatures but can bring rain and wind. Always check the weather forecast before setting out, especially for longer or more exposed sections.
Navigation: The trail is marked with red and white GR stripes. However, it's always wise to carry a map and compass or use a GPS device/app with offline maps, as signage can occasionally be unclear or damaged. Familiarise yourself with the route and have a backup plan.
Water: Carry sufficient water, especially during warmer months and on sections between villages where water sources may be scarce. You can refill your bottles in towns and villages.
Sun Exposure: Large parts of the trail are exposed to the sun. Wear a hat, sunglasses, and apply sunscreen regularly. Seek shade during the hottest parts of the day.
Coastal Hazards: Be aware of the sea conditions, especially if swimming or exploring rocky areas. Tides and waves can be unpredictable. Stick to marked paths and avoid venturing onto unstable cliff edges.
Emergency Contacts: In case of emergency, dial 112 (the European emergency number). It's advisable to have a fully charged mobile phone. Consider carrying a power bank for longer hikes.
Fitness: The trail is rated as moderate due to its length and elevation changes. Ensure you have a reasonable level of fitness and are comfortable with sustained walking, including uphill and downhill sections.
Cap de Creus Natural Park: The easternmost point of mainland Spain, this park is renowned for its dramatic, wind-sculpted rock formations, rugged coastline, and stark beauty. The GR92 passes through its heart, offering incredible views and a sense of wildness.
Sant Pere de Rodes Monastery: A magnificent Romanesque monastery perched high on a hill overlooking the coast. A significant detour from the main GR92, but well worth the effort for its historical and architectural importance, and the panoramic views it offers.
Ruins of Empúries: An archaeological site featuring well-preserved Greek and Roman ruins right on the coast. Walking the GR92 allows you to easily incorporate a visit to this fascinating historical location.
Begur Castle: The ruins of a medieval castle offering commanding views over the town of Begur and the surrounding coastline. A short climb from the town centre provides a rewarding perspective.
Tossa de Mar's Vila Vella: The only remaining fortified medieval town on the Catalan coast. Walking the GR92 culminates in reaching this picturesque walled town, a truly memorable sight.
Hidden Calas: The GR92 frequently leads to secluded coves (calas) with crystal-clear waters, perfect for a refreshing swim and a break from hiking. Some of the most beautiful include Cala Montgó, Sa Tuna, Aiguablava, and Cala Pola.
The GR92 traverses a beautiful and ecologically sensitive coastal environment. Practising Leave No Trace principles ensures that this stunning landscape remains pristine for future generations and for the enjoyment of all visitors.
By following these principles, you contribute to the preservation of the Costa Brava's natural and cultural heritage.
