France — Briançon
The GR50, a 190km circuit through France's Hautes-Alpes, offers a demanding 10-14 day traverse of the Southern French Alps. This route, starting and ending in historic Briançon, winds through the rugged wilderness of the Queyras Regional Natural Park. Expect dramatic panoramas, high-altitude plateaus, and challenging ascents across varied alpine terrain, including scree slopes and rocky ridges.
Distance: 190.0 km
Elevation Gain: 12000 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 10-14 days
The GR50, also known as the Tour du Haut-Dauphiné, is one of France's most ambitious and rewarding long-distance trekking circuits. Spanning approximately 190 kilometres through the heart of the Southern French Alps, this challenging route offers a profound immersion into the rugged beauty of the Queyras Regional Natural Park and the surrounding massifs of the Hautes-Alpes. Starting and ending in the historic fortified city of Briançon—the highest city in the European Union—the trail weaves through a landscape of dramatic contrasts: from sun-drenched larch forests and traditional stone-and-wood villages to high-altitude mountain passes exceeding 2,800 metres. With a staggering total elevation gain of 12,000 metres, the GR50 is not merely a walk; it is a high-altitude odyssey that demands physical resilience, careful navigation, and a deep appreciation for the solitude of the high mountains.
The GR50 is a masterclass in alpine diversity, circumnavigating the high peaks of the Queyras and the eastern fringes of the Écrins National Park. Unlike the more famous Tour du Mont Blanc, which can often feel crowded, the GR50 offers a more authentic and tranquil experience of the French Alps. The route is defined by its "balcony" sections—long stretches of trail that contour along mountain slopes, providing uninterrupted panoramas of the surrounding summits, including the iconic pyramid of Monte Viso (3,841 m) just across the Italian border.
The journey is characterised by its rhythmic progression through distinct ecological zones. You will begin in the dry, Mediterranean-influenced valleys near Briançon, where the air is scented with lavender and wild thyme. As you ascend, you enter the realm of the larch (mélèze), the signature tree of the Southern Alps, which turns a brilliant emerald in summer and a fiery gold in autumn. Above the tree line, the landscape transforms into a stark, mineral world of scree slopes, alpine meadows (alpages) dotted with marmots, and turquoise glacial lakes that reflect the jagged limestone and crystalline peaks.
Physically, the GR50 is a formidable undertaking. The 12,000 metres of ascent are distributed across numerous high passes (cols), often requiring 800 to 1,200 metres of climbing in a single day. The terrain varies from well-maintained forest tracks to narrow, rocky paths that require a steady foot. However, the reward for this exertion is unparalleled: the opportunity to stay in some of France's highest and most traditional villages, such as Saint-Véran, and to experience the unique culture of the Queyras—a region that remained isolated for centuries, developing its own distinct architectural style and communal traditions.
This is a landscape shaped by the elements. The Southern Alps are famous for their exceptional sunshine—averaging 300 days a year—which creates a luminous quality to the light that has long attracted artists and photographers. Yet, the mountains remain unpredictable; sudden afternoon thunderstorms can transform the sun-baked slopes into a theatre of lightning and torrential rain within minutes. For the prepared trekker, the GR50 is a journey of discovery, testing the limits of endurance while offering a front-row seat to the raw majesty of the Haut-Dauphiné.
The history of the GR50 is inextricably linked to the unique political and social history of the Queyras and the Briançonnais. For centuries, these high valleys were part of the "Republic of the Escartons," a unique federation of mountain communities that enjoyed a high degree of autonomy from the 14th to the 18th century. This "republic" allowed the local population to manage their own affairs, leading to a remarkably high literacy rate and a sophisticated system of communal resource management. Walking the GR50, you will see the remnants of this history in the architecture of the villages, where large communal bread ovens and intricate sundials (cadrans solaires) are common sights.
The trail also passes through Briançon, a city whose fortifications are a UNESCO World Heritage site. Designed by the famous military engineer Vauban in the 17th century to protect the border with the Duchy of Savoy, these massive stone walls and forts are a testament to the strategic importance of this mountain crossroads. The GR50 utilizes many ancient paths that were once the only lifelines for these remote communities—routes used by shepherds moving their flocks (transhumance), salt merchants, and pilgrims.
In the higher reaches of the trail, particularly near the Italian border, the history is one of migration and conflict. During the Second World War, these passes were the site of intense resistance activity and skirmishes. Today, the border is invisible, but the cultural exchange remains; many of the mountain refuges serve food that reflects both French and Italian influences, and the local dialects often share common roots. The Queyras itself was only truly opened to the outside world with the construction of the road through the Combe du Queyras in the early 20th century, preserving a sense of "the world apart" that trekkers still feel today.
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The window for completing the full GR50 is relatively narrow, dictated by the presence of snow on the high passes. While the lower valleys near Briançon may be accessible from May, the higher cols (such as the Col de Chamoussière or Col Vieux) often remain snow-covered until late June or even early July.
June: This is the month of the "alpine spring." The meadows are a riot of colour with gentians, anemones, and lilies. However, trekkers must be prepared for significant snow patches on north-facing slopes, which may require an ice axe or at least trekking poles and good boots. Many refuges only open in mid-June.
July and August: These are the peak months for trekking. The weather is generally stable and warm, with long daylight hours. This is the best time for high-altitude sections, as the snow has mostly melted. However, this is also the season of the "orages" (afternoon thunderstorms). It is essential to start early and aim to be over the highest passes by midday to avoid being caught in exposed areas during a storm.
September: Many experienced trekkers consider this the finest month for the GR50. The crowds of August have dissipated, the air is crisp and clear, and the risk of thunderstorms decreases. In late September, the larch trees begin their spectacular transformation to gold. However, the days are shorter, and temperatures at night can drop below freezing at higher elevations. Some refuges begin to close in mid-to-late September, so careful planning is required.
Winter (October to May): The GR50 is not a hiking trail in winter. It becomes the domain of ski tourers and snowshoers. The high passes are prone to avalanches, and the trail markings are buried under metres of snow. Attempting the route during this time requires advanced mountaineering skills and winter survival equipment.
Day 1: Briançon to Villard-Saint-Pancrace
Day 2: Villard-Saint-Pancrace to Arvieux
Day 3: Arvieux to Ceillac
Day 4: Ceillac to Saint-Véran
Day 5: Saint-Véran to Refuge Agnel
Day 6: Refuge Agnel to L'Échalp
Day 7: L'Échalp to Abriès
Day 8: Abriès to Fonts de Cervières
Day 9: Fonts de Cervières to Montgenèvre
Day 10: Montgenèvre to Briançon
Important Notes:
The GR50 is a serious mountain undertaking that requires a high level of physical fitness. Trekkers should be comfortable walking 6–8 hours a day with a loaded pack, often involving over 1,000 metres of ascent. Training on hilly terrain prior to the trip is highly recommended. Briançon is the primary logistical hub; it is well-connected by train (including a night train from Paris) and bus from Marseille or Turin. It is advisable to spend at least one night in Briançon before starting to acclimatise and finalise gear. The local "Maison du Tourisme" and the "Maison du Parc du Queyras" provide excellent maps and up-to-date information on trail conditions.
The GR50 is well-served by a network of accommodation options, ranging from rustic mountain refuges to comfortable village gîtes d'étape.
Types of Accommodation:
Booking Requirements:
One of the great advantages of the GR50 is that no formal permits are required to hike the trail. Access to the Queyras Regional Natural Park and the surrounding public lands is free for all. However, this freedom comes with the responsibility to follow local regulations designed to protect the environment and the local economy.
Key Considerations:
Logistics and Transport:
Precisely traced GPX for the Gr50, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Hautes-Alpes is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts. Consider adding a few days to your trip to experience these activities:
Pre-Departure Checks:
Mountain Hazards: The GR50 is a high-altitude trail, and the primary risks are weather-related. Thunderstorms (orages) are common in July and August. They typically build up in the afternoon. If you see towering cumulus clouds (cumulonimbus) forming, descend from ridges and passes immediately. Hypothermia is a risk even in summer if you get wet and the temperature drops, which it can do rapidly at 2,500 m. Altitude sickness is rare at these elevations but can affect some individuals; stay hydrated and ascend gradually.
Livestock Guardian Dogs (Patous): You will encounter large white dogs (Great Pyrenees) guarding sheep flocks. These are not pets; they are working animals trained to protect the flock from wolves. How to behave: When you see a flock, slow down. If a dog approaches barking, stop. Do not shout, do not throw stones, and do not use your trekking poles aggressively. Speak in a calm voice, let the dog sniff you from a distance, and then walk in a wide circle around the flock. Never walk through the middle of the sheep.
Navigation: While the GR50 is generally well-marked, fog or low cloud can make finding the red and white blazes difficult on rocky plateaus. Always carry a map and compass and know how to use them. Do not rely solely on a smartphone, as batteries drain quickly in the cold and signal is non-existent in many valleys.
Emergency Number: Dial 112 for all emergencies in France. Be prepared to give your coordinates (GPS) and describe your location clearly.
Pain de Sucre (3,208 m): For those with extra energy at Refuge Agnel, the ascent of the Pain de Sucre is a classic. It is a steep but non-technical hike (though it requires a steady foot on scree) that offers one of the best views in the Alps, looking directly down onto the Italian plains and across to the massive south face of Monte Viso. Allow 3–4 hours return from the Col Vieux.
Lac Miroir and Lac Sainte-Anne: Near Ceillac, these two lakes are among the most beautiful in the region. Lac Miroir is famous for its perfect reflections of the surrounding larch trees, while Lac Sainte-Anne, located at the foot of the Fonte Sancte, is a deep turquoise and the site of a traditional pilgrimage chapel. The GR50 passes near them, but a small detour is well worth the effort.
The "Demoiselles Coiffées": Near the trail between Abriès and the Fonts de Cervières, look out for these strange geological formations—tall columns of eroded earth topped with a "cap" of harder rock. They are a striking example of the unique geology of the Southern Alps.
Fort de la Croix de Bretagne: On the final descent to Briançon, this 19th-century fort offers a commanding view of the entire Durance valley. It is a perfect spot to sit and reflect on the vast loop you have just completed, seeing the distant peaks of the Queyras where you walked days before.
The Queyras Regional Natural Park is a fragile ecosystem home to rare species like the Alpine Ibex, the Bearded Vulture, and the endemic Queyras Salamander. With increasing numbers of trekkers, the "Leave No Trace" principles are essential to preserving this wilderness.
Your responsibility as a walker:
By following these principles, you ensure that the GR50 remains a pristine and wild experience for those who follow in your footsteps. Tread lightly and leave only footprints.
