France — Brest
Walk France's GR38, a 180km moderate path through Brittany's soul. This 9-12 day traverse links the dramatic Pink Granite Coast to deep, mystical forests and rolling river valleys. Experience the perfect synthesis of "Armor" (sea) and "Argoat" (woods) on this varied and scenic route.
Distance: 180.0 km
Elevation Gain: 6000 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 9-12 days
The GR38 is one of France's most evocative long-distance footpaths, offering a profound journey through the soul of Brittany. Spanning approximately 180 kilometres from the dramatic, rose-hued coastline of the north to the deep, mystical forests and rolling river valleys of the interior, this trail represents the perfect synthesis of "Armor" (the country of the sea) and "Argoat" (the country of the woods). Starting at the iconic Pink Granite Coast in Ploumanac'h, the route strikes inland, leaving the salt spray behind to discover a landscape of medieval fortresses, granite-built villages, and ancient sunken lanes known as "chemins creux." This is not merely a walk; it is a pilgrimage through a region with a fierce cultural identity, where the Breton language still echoes in the names of the towns and the legends of the land are etched into every standing stone and moss-covered calvary.
The GR38 offers a walking experience that is defined by its remarkable transitions. While many visitors to Brittany remain tethered to its spectacular coastline, the GR38 dares to venture into the "Argoat"—the wooded heart of the peninsula. The journey begins amidst the geological wonder of the Côte de Granit Rose (Pink Granite Coast), where massive boulders of feldspar-rich rock have been sculpted by millennia of Atlantic gales into surreal shapes. From here, the trail follows the Léguer River inland, transitioning from the maritime influence of the English Channel to a more sheltered, pastoral landscape. The elevation gain of 6,000 metres is accumulated not through high-alpine passes, but through a relentless "Breton sawtooth" profile—constant short, sharp climbs and descents as the trail crosses the numerous river valleys that dissect the Armorican Massif.
As you move further from the coast, the landscape becomes more intimate and ancient. You will walk through deep beech and oak forests like the Forêt de Beffou, where the canopy creates a natural cathedral, and traverse high moorlands that offer panoramic views across the undulating hills of the Côtes-d'Armor. The trail is a masterclass in rural French heritage; walkers will encounter "enclos paroissiaux" (parish closes) featuring intricate granite carvings, medieval castles like Tonquédec guarding river crossings, and quiet canals where the pace of life seems to have remained unchanged for centuries. The difficulty is rated as moderate, making it accessible to fit hikers who are comfortable with consecutive days of 18–22 kilometres, though the humidity and frequent rain of the Breton climate add a layer of physical challenge that should not be underestimated.
What sets the GR38 apart is the sense of discovery. Unlike the more famous GR34 (the Customs Officers' Path) which hugs the coast, the GR38 is a path of solitude and cultural immersion. You will find yourself in villages where the local "boulangerie" is the social hub and the evening meal is a celebration of local cider and buckwheat galettes. It is a journey for the contemplative walker, one who finds beauty in the shift of light across a damp meadow or the historical weight of a Neolithic menhir standing silent in a farmer's field. By the time you reach the southern reaches of the trail near the Blavet Valley, you will have gained a perspective on Brittany that few tourists ever experience—a deep, rhythmic understanding of a land that is as rugged as its granite and as fluid as its many rivers.
The history of the GR38 is inextricably linked to the broader "Sentiers de Grande Randonnée" (GR) network, a system of long-distance paths conceived in the post-war era to encourage the French public to rediscover their rural heritage. However, the paths themselves are far older. Many sections of the GR38 follow ancient "chemins de traverse" that have been used for centuries by Breton peasants, pilgrims, and traders. These sunken lanes, bordered by high hedgerows and ancient trees, were the primary arteries of communication in the Argoat before the advent of modern roads. Walking them today feels like stepping back into a medieval landscape, where the boundaries of fields were determined by the reach of a stone wall and the height of a granite bank.
Brittany's history is one of resistance and distinctiveness. Originally inhabited by Celtic tribes, the region was later settled by Britons fleeing the Anglo-Saxon invasions of Great Britain, giving the province its name and its unique Brythonic language. The GR38 passes through the heart of this Celtic heritage. In the towns of Lannion and Quintin, the architecture reflects the wealth generated by the linen trade in the 17th and 18th centuries, with grand granite houses and timber-framed buildings. The trail also touches upon the religious fervour of the region; the "Tro Breizh" (Tour of Brittany) was a traditional pilgrimage to the shrines of the seven founding saints of Brittany, and parts of the GR38 intersect with these ancient spiritual routes.
The landscape is also a silent witness to the Breton Resistance during World War II. The dense forests of the interior provided ideal cover for the "Maquis" (resistance fighters), and several memorials along the route commemorate the bravery of those who fought against the occupation. Culturally, the trail is a journey through the Breton "terroir." Each valley has its own micro-traditions, from specific styles of lace-making to local variations of the "Kig Ha Farz" (a traditional meat and buckwheat flour stew). To walk the GR38 is to engage with a living history, where the past is not confined to museums but is found in the very stones of the path and the enduring spirit of the people who call the Argoat home.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
Brittany’s weather is famously unpredictable, influenced by its position jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. The GR38 can be walked from late spring to early autumn, with each season offering a distinct character. However, walkers must be prepared for the "crachin"—a fine, persistent Breton drizzle that can arrive at any time, regardless of the forecast. This moisture is what keeps the landscape so vibrantly green, but it also means that waterproof gear is a year-round necessity.
Spring (May to June): This is arguably the most beautiful time to walk the GR38. The hedgerows are alive with wildflowers, the gorse and broom paint the hillsides in brilliant yellows, and the temperatures are mild (averaging 12–18°C). The days are long, providing ample light for the longer stages. However, the ground can be muddy after spring showers, particularly in the wooded sections of the interior.
Summer (July to August): This is the peak season for tourism in Brittany, though the GR38 remains significantly quieter than the coastal paths. Temperatures are generally pleasant (20–25°C), rarely reaching the extreme heat found in southern France. This is the best time for socialising in the villages, as many local "Fest-Noz" (traditional night festivals) take place during these months. The downside is that accommodation in popular towns like Lannion or Quintin should be booked well in advance.
Autumn (September to October): September offers stable weather and the first hints of autumnal colour in the great forests of the Argoat. The morning mists in the river valleys are particularly atmospheric. By October, the temperatures begin to drop (10–15°C) and the rainfall increases, but the sight of the beech forests turning to gold and copper is a spectacular reward for those who don't mind a bit of dampness. Many seasonal gîtes begin to close in late October, so careful planning is required for late-season treks.
Winter (November to April): Walking the GR38 in winter is not recommended for the average hiker. While snow is rare, the combination of short days, high rainfall, and biting Atlantic winds can make for a gruelling experience. Many accommodation options are closed, and the trails can become extremely waterlogged and difficult to navigate.
Day 1: Ploumanac'h to Lannion
Day 2: Lannion to Tonquédec
Day 3: Tonquédec to Belle-Isle-en-Terre
Day 4: Belle-Isle-en-Terre to Bourbriac
Day 5: Bourbriac to Quintin
Day 6: Quintin to L'Hermitage-Lorge
Day 7: L'Hermitage-Lorge to Mûr-de-Bretagne
Day 8: Mûr-de-Bretagne to Pontivy
Day 9: Pontivy to Baud
Day 10: Baud to Final Destination (e.g., Pluvigner or Redon)
The GR38 requires a moderate level of physical fitness. While there are no high-altitude challenges, the cumulative effect of walking 180 kilometres over 10 days with a pack is significant. Walkers should be comfortable with daily elevation gains of 400–700 metres. Training should include back-to-back days of walking on undulating terrain to condition the legs and feet for the "Breton sawtooth" profile.
Logistically, the GR38 is well-supported but requires careful coordination. The primary resource for the trail is the "Topoguide" published by the FFRandonnée (French Hiking Federation). This guide provides detailed 1:50,000 maps, water point locations, and accommodation listings. It is highly recommended to purchase the latest edition, as trail reroutes can occur. Brest is the most convenient logistical hub, offering an international airport and high-speed TGV train connections to Paris. From Brest, regional trains and buses connect to Lannion and the trailhead at Ploumanac'h.
Accommodation on the GR38 is varied, ranging from rustic hikers' hostels to comfortable hotels. Because the trail passes through many small villages, you will have the opportunity to experience authentic Breton hospitality.
Types of Accommodation:
Booking Requirements: During the peak months of July and August, it is essential to book accommodation at least 2–4 weeks in advance. In the shoulder seasons, 2–3 days' notice is usually sufficient, but always call ahead to ensure the gîte is open, as some operate on a seasonal basis.
One of the great advantages of the GR38 is that no formal permits or registrations are required to walk the trail. It is a public right-of-way, open to all. However, there are several administrative and logistical considerations to keep in mind to ensure a smooth journey.
Access and Regulations:
Logistical Strategy:
Precisely traced GPX for the Gr38, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Brittany offers a wealth of experiences that can be easily combined with a GR38 trek:
Pre-Departure Checks:
Terrain Hazards: The primary hazards on the GR38 are related to the terrain and weather rather than extreme altitude. Be aware of slippery granite rocks and roots, especially after rain. The "chemins creux" can become very muddy and waterlogged, increasing the risk of slips and ankle strains. In the forested sections, be mindful of falling branches during high winds, which are common in Brittany.
Navigation: While the red and white blazes are generally excellent, they can be missed at complex junctions or in overgrown areas. Always carry a physical map and compass as a backup to digital tools. If you haven't seen a blaze for more than 200 metres, backtrack to the last known marker.
Ticks and Lyme Disease: Ticks are prevalent in the ferns and long grasses of the Breton forests and moorlands. Wear long trousers, use repellent, and perform a thorough tick check at the end of every day. Carry a tick removal tool in your first aid kit.
Water and Heat: Even in the mild Breton climate, dehydration is a risk. Drink regularly and carry enough water for the entire day, as public fountains in small villages are not always operational. During rare summer heatwaves, plan to walk early in the morning and rest during the hottest part of the day.
Emergency Contacts: The universal European emergency number is 112. Be prepared to give your location based on the nearest village or the specific GR38 stage and kilometre marker if known.
Château de Tonquédec: This 15th-century fortress is one of the most impressive ruins in Brittany. Located just off the trail on Day 2, its eleven towers rise dramatically above the Léguer Valley. It is well worth the small entry fee to explore the ramparts and imagine the medieval history of the region.
The Forêt de Beffou: As the highest forest in Brittany, Beffou offers a unique ecosystem. Look for the "Pavé de Beffou," a remarkably well-preserved section of Roman road that once connected the ancient cities of Vorgium (Carhaix) and Lannion. The forest is also home to diverse birdlife and ancient beech trees.
Quintin - The Linen Town: Quintin is a "Petite Cité de Caractère" that feels like a film set. The town's wealth was built on the manufacture of fine linen ("toiles de Bretagne"), and the grand 18th-century houses of the linen merchants still line the streets. Visit the Château de Quintin and its gardens for a glimpse into the town's aristocratic past.
Lake Guerlédan: This 12-kilometre-long lake was created by the damming of the Blavet River in the 1920s. The trail offers several stunning viewpoints over the water. If you have extra time, the "Sentier de Rivage" (shoreline path) allows for a complete circuit of the lake, though this adds significantly to the distance.
The Venus of Quinipily: Located near Baud at the end of the trek, this mysterious 2.2-metre-tall stone statue has puzzled historians for centuries. Some believe it is an ancient Celtic deity, while others suggest it is a Roman or even Egyptian import. It sits in a beautiful garden and provides a fittingly enigmatic conclusion to the journey.
The GR38 passes through a variety of sensitive environments, including ancient woodlands, protected moorlands, and traditional agricultural land. As a walker, you are a guest in these landscapes and have a responsibility to minimise your impact.
Principles for the GR38:
By following these principles, you help ensure that the GR38 remains a pristine and beautiful resource for future generations of walkers and for the local communities who maintain it.
