Namibia — Windhoek
Traverse Namibia's Fish River Canyon, a 85km, 4-5 day expedition through Africa's second-largest gorge. This rugged, self-sufficient wilderness walk demands significant fitness, offering a raw, isolated experience across its vast, ancient landscape. Expect challenging terrain and unparalleled panoramas on this remote route.
Distance: 85.0 km
Elevation Gain: 2700 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 4-5 days
The Fish River Canyon Hike is widely regarded as one of the most challenging and rewarding multi-day treks in Africa. Located in the far south of Namibia, within the /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, this 85-kilometre expedition traverses the floor of the second-largest canyon in the world. Unlike many world-class trails that offer manicured paths and comfortable huts, the Fish River Canyon is a raw, self-sufficient wilderness experience. There are no facilities, no fixed campsites, and no escape routes once the descent into the canyon is completed. Hikers must carry everything they need to survive for five days in a landscape defined by towering rock faces, vast sandy riverbeds, and ancient geological formations that date back over 500 million years.
The journey begins at the Hobas viewpoint, where the sheer scale of the canyon first reveals itself, and concludes at the thermal springs of Ai-Ais. Between these two points lies a world of profound isolation. The trail follows the meandering course of the Fish River, which, during the hiking season, is often reduced to a series of turquoise pools connected by thin ribbons of water or dry stretches of sand and boulders. This is a trek that tests physical endurance, mental fortitude, and navigational skills, offering in return a connection to the earth’s deep history that few other places on the planet can provide.
The Fish River Canyon is a geological titan. Stretching 160 kilometres in length and reaching widths of up to 27 kilometres, the canyon plunges to depths of 550 metres. The hike itself covers the most dramatic southern section of this chasm. It is not a "trail" in the traditional sense; there is no marked path to follow. Instead, hikers navigate by the river’s course, choosing their own lines through boulder fields, over soft river sand, and across rocky plateaus. The environment is unforgiving, with daytime temperatures often reaching 30°C even in winter, while night-time temperatures in the desert can drop toward freezing.
The experience is defined by the "no-exit" policy. Once you descend the steep, technical path from the rim to the canyon floor, you are committed to the full 85-kilometre journey. The only way out is forward to Ai-Ais or backward up the near-vertical descent at the start. This creates a psychological weight to the hike that heightens the sense of adventure. You are truly "in it," separated from the modern world by hundreds of metres of vertical rock. The silence of the canyon is absolute, broken only by the occasional call of a fish eagle or the crunch of boots on gravel.
The landscape changes subtly but significantly as you progress. The upper canyon is narrow and vertical, with dramatic "incised meanders" where the river has carved deep into the gneiss and schist. As you move south, the canyon widens, revealing the "Four Finger Rock" and the "Three Sisters" formations. The flora is equally specialised, featuring the iconic Quiver Tree (Aloidendron dichotomum) and the bizarre "Halfmens" succulent, both of which have evolved to survive in one of the most arid regions on the continent. For those seeking a true wilderness expedition that strips away the comforts of modern life, the Fish River Canyon is an unparalleled destination.
The geological history of the Fish River Canyon is a saga of tectonic shifts and erosion spanning half a billion years. The canyon began to form approximately 500 million years ago during a period of tectonic uplift. As the African continent underwent massive stress, a "graben" (a depressed block of the earth's crust) formed, creating a wide, shallow valley. It wasn't until the breakup of the supercontinent Gondwana about 120 million years ago that the Fish River began to erode the deeper, narrower inner canyon we see today. The river followed the faults and fractures in the ancient basement rock, creating the spectacular meanders that are a hallmark of the trail.
To the local Nama people, the canyon’s origin has a more legendary explanation. Folklore tells of a giant serpent named Koutein Kooru who was pursued by hunters. As the serpent fled across the desert, its massive, writhing body gouged deep furrows into the earth, creating the twists and turns of the Fish River Canyon. This cultural connection to the land remains strong, and the canyon is part of the /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, a peace park that straddles the border between Namibia and South Africa, managed in part by the local communities.
In more recent history, the canyon served as a site of conflict and refuge. During the German colonial era in the early 20th century, the rugged terrain provided a hiding place for Nama forces resisting German rule. A poignant reminder of this era is the grave of Lieutenant Thilo von Trotha, a German officer who was killed in 1905 during a parley with the Nama. His grave remains a lonely landmark on the canyon floor, a testament to the harsh and storied past of this remote wilderness. Today, the canyon is a protected national monument, recognised globally for its geological significance and its status as a premier trekking destination.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Fish River Canyon Hike is only open from 1 May to 15 September each year. Outside of these months, the hike is strictly prohibited due to extreme heat. During the Namibian summer (October to April), temperatures on the canyon floor can easily exceed 50°C. Because the canyon walls trap heat and there is very little air movement, the environment becomes a literal oven, making physical exertion life-threatening. Additionally, summer is the rainy season in the interior of Namibia; while it may not rain in the canyon itself, flash floods can roar down the Fish River with very little warning, posing a catastrophic risk to anyone on the canyon floor.
Winter (May to August): This is the prime hiking window. Daytime temperatures typically range between 20°C and 30°C, providing comfortable conditions for heavy trekking. However, the desert climate means that as soon as the sun sets, temperatures plummet. Night-time lows can reach 5°C or even 0°C in the deeper sections of the canyon. Hikers must be prepared for this massive diurnal temperature swing with both sun protection and warm evening layers.
Shoulder Season (September): By early September, the heat begins to return. While the trail remains open, hikers should expect hotter days (35°C+) and should plan to do the bulk of their walking in the early morning hours. Water levels in the river also tend to be at their lowest in September, meaning pools may be more stagnant and require careful filtration.
Weather in the canyon is generally stable and dry during the winter, but wind can be a factor. Strong gusts can funnel through the canyon, making it difficult to pitch tents or cook. Sandstorms are rare but possible. Always check the long-range forecast at Hobas before descending, as unseasonal cold fronts can occasionally bring rain or extreme wind to the south of Namibia.
Day 1: Hobas Rim to the Canyon Floor
Day 2: The Upper Canyon and Palm Springs
Day 3: The Middle Canyon and Three Sisters
Day 4: The Lower Canyon and the Shortcuts
Day 5: The Final Stretch to Ai-Ais
Important Notes:
The Fish River Canyon Hike requires meticulous planning. Because it is a self-sufficient trek, your pack weight will be significant (often 15–22 kg at the start). Fitness is paramount; you should be comfortable walking 20 kilometres a day on uneven, sandy terrain with a heavy load. Training should include multi-day hikes and strength training for your legs and core.
Logistically, the hike starts at Hobas and ends at Ai-Ais. These two points are roughly 70 kilometres apart by road. Most hikers leave their vehicles at Ai-Ais and take a pre-booked shuttle to the start at Hobas. This ensures your car is waiting for you at the finish. Windhoek is the nearest major city, approximately 800 kilometres (8–10 hours drive) to the north. Ensure your vehicle is suitable for gravel roads, as the final stretches to the park are not paved.
There is no formal accommodation inside the Fish River Canyon. This is a wild camping experience in its purest form.
Inside the Canyon:
At the Trailheads:
Permits for the Fish River Canyon Hike are mandatory and are issued by Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR). Due to the trail's popularity and the strict limit on the number of hikers allowed per day, it is essential to book months in advance. Bookings usually open a year ahead, and peak dates in June and July sell out almost instantly.
Permit Requirements:
Costs (Approximate):
Permits can be booked through the NWR central reservations office in Windhoek or via their official website. Ensure you receive a written confirmation and keep a printed copy with your medical certificate to present at the Hobas park office.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Fish River Canyon (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Fish River Canyon, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The south of Namibia is a land of vast horizons and unique attractions. Consider these additions to your itinerary:
The Fish River Canyon is a high-risk environment. There is no cell phone reception inside the canyon, and the rugged terrain makes rescue operations extremely difficult and time-consuming. Safety is the responsibility of the hiking group.
Heat and Hydration: Heat exhaustion and heatstroke are the primary dangers. Drink water constantly, even if you don't feel thirsty. Use electrolyte replacements to maintain salt balance. If a group member shows signs of confusion, extreme fatigue, or stops sweating, stop immediately in the shade, cool them with water, and rest.
Water Safety: The Fish River is not a flowing river in winter; it is a series of pools. Some pools are fresh, while others are stagnant and salty. Always filter or treat your water. Avoid pools with dead animals or excessive green slime. In the lower canyon, water can become more scarce, so fill up whenever you find a good source.
Injuries: Sprained ankles and knee injuries are common due to the boulder hopping and soft sand. Carry a comprehensive first aid kit and know how to use it. If a serious injury occurs, the group must decide whether to send two people ahead to Ai-Ais to raise the alarm. In extreme emergencies, a helicopter evacuation may be possible, but it is weather-dependent and very expensive.
Flash Floods: While rare in winter, they are possible if there is heavy rain in the catchment area hundreds of kilometres to the north. If the river starts to rise or becomes muddy, move to higher ground immediately. Never camp in the direct centre of the riverbed if there is any cloud cover in the distance.
Wildlife: You may encounter baboons, klipspringers, and Hartmann's mountain zebra. Leopards are present but very rarely seen. Scorpions and snakes (such as the Horned Adder) exist; always check your boots in the morning and use a headlamp when walking at night.
While the main goal is to reach Ai-Ais, there are several notable features to look out for along the way:
The Sulphur Springs (Palm Springs): Located about 25 kilometres from the start, these thermal springs are a geological marvel. The water emerges at a temperature of 57°C. While the smell of sulphur is strong, the pools offer a unique "spa" experience in the middle of the wilderness. It is a popular spot for a midday break on Day 2.
The Grave of Lieutenant von Trotha: A small stone masonry grave located on the eastern side of the river in the upper canyon. It marks the spot where a German officer was killed in 1905. It is a somber reminder of the canyon's history and a common landmark for hikers to verify their position.
The Four Finger Rock: This massive rock formation consists of four distinct stone towers that resemble a hand. It is located in the lower canyon and serves as a major navigational landmark. It is particularly striking in the late afternoon light.
The Shortcuts: While not "points of interest" in the traditional sense, the shortcuts are a fundamental part of the Fish River experience. Learning to read the topography to identify where you can cut across a meander is a rewarding challenge. The "Koelkrans" shortcut is one of the most famous, offering a steep but rewarding bypass of a long river loop.
The Fish River Canyon is a fragile desert ecosystem. Because of the high volume of hikers during the short season, the impact on the environment can be significant if rules are not followed. We have a collective responsibility to keep this wilderness pristine.
Core Principles:
