Crooked River Trail

USA — Bend, Oregon

Crooked River Trail Photo

Crooked River Trail: A moderate 17.7 km out-and-back walk through Central Oregon's high desert. This secluded route winds through a dramatic volcanic gorge carved by the river, offering a profound sense of isolation. Expect rugged terrain and stunning geological formations on this scenic desert journey, just a short drive from Bend.

Distance: 17.7 km

Elevation Gain: 244 m

Difficulty: Moderate

Duration: 5-7 hours

Crooked River Trail - A High Desert Sanctuary

The Crooked River Trail offers an immersive journey into the rugged heart of Central Oregon’s high desert, where the relentless force of water has carved a deep, serpentine sanctuary through ancient volcanic basalt. Spanning 17.7 kilometres as an out-and-back route, this trail provides a profound sense of isolation and geological wonder just a short drive from the bustling outdoor hub of Bend. Unlike the more vertical challenges of the nearby Cascade Range, the Crooked River Trail focuses on the horizontal intimacy of the canyon floor, where the scent of sagebrush and western juniper fills the air and the rhythmic pulse of the river serves as a constant companion. This is a landscape defined by its contrasts: the stark, vertical geometry of the canyon walls against the fluid, winding path of the water; the scorched heat of the summer sun against the cool, shaded alcoves of the riparian zone; and the silence of the desert broken only by the cry of a golden eagle or the rustle of a canyon wren.

  • Distance: 17.7 km out-and-back
  • Duration: 5–7 hours
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Elevation Gain: 244 m
  • Best Time: Spring and Autumn (mild temperatures and vibrant flora)
  • Closest City: Bend, Oregon (approximately 48 km to the west)
  • Trail Type: Out-and-back (returning via the same scenic route)

Overview

The Crooked River Trail is a masterclass in high desert ecology and geological storytelling. As a designated Wild and Scenic River, the Crooked River winds through a landscape that feels suspended in time, far removed from the modern developments of the Pacific Northwest. The trail itself is a relatively flat but physically engaging trek that follows the river's contours, offering hikers a front-row seat to the dramatic "palisades"—towering basalt columns that rise hundreds of metres above the canyon floor. These formations, created by ancient lava flows that were subsequently cooled and eroded over millions of years, provide a stark, architectural backdrop to the lush greenery of the riverbanks.

The trail type is an out-and-back, meaning walkers can tailor the length of their journey to their fitness levels, though completing the full 17.7 kilometres is highly recommended to experience the shifting character of the canyon. In the early stages, the canyon is wide and the sun exposure is significant, but as you progress deeper, the walls often narrow, creating a more intimate and sheltered environment. The elevation gain of 244 metres is distributed gently across the entire distance, making this an accessible option for those who want a long-distance experience without the punishing verticality of mountain peaks. However, the "moderate" difficulty rating is earned through the ruggedness of the terrain; the path can be rocky, sandy, and occasionally obscured by seasonal overgrowth, requiring steady footwork and consistent navigation.

Wildlife enthusiasts will find the Crooked River Trail particularly rewarding. The canyon serves as a critical corridor for various species, including mule deer, North American river otters, and an impressive array of raptors. The vertical cliffs provide ideal nesting sites for prairie falcons and golden eagles, while the river itself supports a healthy population of native redband trout, making it a premier destination for fly fishing. The sensory experience of the trail is perhaps its greatest draw—the sound of the water transitioning from gentle ripples to rushing rapids, the vibrant yellow of the rabbitbrush in autumn, and the deep, earthy aroma of the desert after a rare rainstorm.

History and Cultural Context

The history of the Crooked River region is a tapestry of geological upheaval and human resilience. Long before European settlers arrived in the Oregon Territory, the area was the ancestral home of the Sahaptin-speaking peoples, including the Warm Springs, Wasco, and Northern Paiute tribes. These indigenous communities utilised the canyon for its abundant resources, from the fish in the river to the edible plants and game found along the rim. The river was not merely a source of sustenance but a vital cultural and spiritual landmark, a thread of life in an otherwise arid landscape. Evidence of their presence can still be found in the region, and hikers are reminded to treat the land with the utmost respect, recognising it as a living cultural heritage site.

In the 19th century, the arrival of fur trappers and later, pioneers on the Oregon Trail, marked a significant shift in the region's history. The Crooked River presented a formidable obstacle for early travellers, its deep canyons and unpredictable flows requiring careful navigation. The name "Crooked River" is a literal translation of the indigenous names for the waterway, reflecting its incredibly sinuous path. As ranching and agriculture became the dominant industries in Central Oregon, the river was harnessed for irrigation, leading to the construction of various dams and diversions. However, the section of the river where the trail is located has remained remarkably preserved, eventually leading to its protection under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1988.

This federal designation was a turning point for the Crooked River, ensuring that its free-flowing character, water quality, and "outstandingly remarkable values"—including its scenery, recreation, and geology—would be protected for future generations. Today, the trail is managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), which works to balance the needs of recreation with the preservation of the delicate high desert ecosystem. Walking the trail today is an exercise in appreciating this balance, seeing how the land has recovered from past pressures and remains a vital sanctuary for both wildlife and humans seeking solace in the wilderness.

Seasonal Highlights and Weather Reality

The high desert climate of Central Oregon is one of extremes, and timing your visit to the Crooked River Trail is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience. Unlike the temperate rainforests to the west of the Cascades, this region receives very little precipitation, and the sun can be relentless. Spring (April to June) is arguably the most spectacular time to visit. During these months, the desert floor comes alive with wildflowers, including desert parsley, balsamroot, and Indian paintbrush. The temperatures are typically mild, ranging from 15°C to 22°C, and the river is often at its highest volume due to snowmelt from the surrounding mountains, creating a more dramatic auditory and visual experience.

Autumn (September to November) is another prime window for hiking. As the heat of summer fades, the canyon is bathed in a golden light, and the deciduous vegetation along the riverbanks—such as willows and alders—turns vibrant shades of yellow and orange. The air is crisp and clear, providing excellent visibility of the basalt palisades. Daytime temperatures are comfortable, though hikers should be prepared for rapid cooling as soon as the sun drops behind the canyon walls. Night-time temperatures in the autumn can easily dip towards freezing, even after a warm day.

Summer (July and August) presents the greatest challenge. Temperatures frequently exceed 30°C and can soar above 35°C in the depths of the canyon, where the basalt walls absorb and radiate heat. Shade is sparse, and the risk of heat exhaustion and dehydration is significant. If you choose to hike in summer, an early morning start (before 6:00 AM) is mandatory, and you must carry significantly more water than you think you will need. Conversely, Winter (December to March) brings a quiet, stark beauty to the canyon. While the trail remains accessible, it can be icy or covered in light snow. The low sun creates long shadows, and the canyon can feel incredibly cold, with temperatures often staying below 5°C. Winter hiking requires specialised traction for boots and high-quality thermal layers.

Recommended Itinerary

[wakahi-visual1]

Crooked River Day Hike Itinerary

Early Morning: Departure and Arrival

  • 07:00 – Depart Bend, Oregon. Drive east on US-20, enjoying the views of the High Desert Plateau.
  • 07:45 – Turn north onto the forest service road. Ensure your vehicle is prepared for gravel conditions, though most standard cars can manage if driven carefully.
  • 08:15 – Arrive at the trailhead. Use the final moments of cool morning air to organise your pack, apply sunscreen, and perform a final gear check.
  • 08:30 – Begin the hike. The initial section of the trail is wide and offers immediate views of the river's first major bend.

Mid-Morning: Into the Canyon

  • 09:30 – Reach the 4 km mark. The trail begins to feel more remote as the sounds of the road disappear entirely.
  • 10:00 – Observe the basalt palisades. This section features some of the most dramatic vertical columns in the canyon. Keep an eye out for raptors nesting in the crevices.
  • 11:00 – Reach the 8 km mark. The vegetation becomes denser near the water, providing small pockets of shade. This is a good spot for a quick energy snack and a hydration break.
  • 11:30 – Approach the turnaround point (8.85 km). The canyon often feels most intimate here, with the river narrowing and the walls pressing closer.

Midday: The Turnaround and Lunch

  • 12:00 – Reach the end of the maintained trail. Find a flat rock near the river for a well-earned lunch.
  • 12:30 – Take time to observe the river life. Look for trout rising to the surface or the occasional river otter.
  • 13:00 – Begin the return journey. Remember that the perspective changes when walking in the opposite direction; look for geological features you may have missed on the way in.

Afternoon: The Return Leg

  • 14:30 – Pass the 12 km mark (total distance). The afternoon sun will now be hitting the opposite canyon wall, changing the colours and shadows of the basalt.
  • 15:30 – Final 4 km stretch. This is often the most challenging part of the hike as fatigue sets in and the heat (if in summer or late spring) reaches its peak.
  • 16:30 – Arrive back at the trailhead. Take a moment to stretch and finish any remaining water.
  • 17:30 – Return to Bend for a celebratory meal at one of the local breweries.

Important Notes:

  • The trail is an out-and-back; you can turn around at any point if time or energy runs low.
  • There are no facilities (toilets or water) once you leave the trailhead.
  • Cellular signal is extremely spotty and non-existent in the deeper sections of the canyon.
  • The trail surface is a mix of packed dirt, loose scree, and sandy patches.

Planning and Bookings

[wakahi-widgets]

Essential Preparation

Preparation for the Crooked River Trail focuses on self-sufficiency and environmental awareness. Because this is a high desert environment, your primary concerns are sun exposure, hydration, and navigation. Before leaving Bend, ensure you have downloaded offline maps (such as Gaia GPS or AllTrails), as you cannot rely on a data connection once you descend into the canyon. Check the local weather forecast specifically for the Prineville/Post area, as it can differ significantly from the weather in Bend.

Fitness requirements are moderate. While the trail is relatively flat, the 17.7 km distance is substantial for a day walk, and the uneven terrain can be taxing on the ankles and knees. If you are not accustomed to long-distance walking, consider a shorter version of the trail for your first visit. Logistics are straightforward: the trailhead is accessible via a forest service road, but you should check the BLM website for any recent alerts regarding road washouts or seasonal closures. Bend serves as the perfect base, offering a wide range of outdoor retailers where you can hire gear or purchase last-minute supplies.

Trail Accommodation

This is a day hike requiring no overnight accommodation on the trail itself. Camping is generally prohibited directly on the trail to protect the sensitive riparian habitat and the Wild and Scenic River corridor. However, there are several excellent options for those who wish to stay nearby and experience the desert night sky.

Nearby Options:

  • Prineville Reservoir State Park: Located to the east, offering developed campsites with hookups, showers, and toilets. Bookings are highly recommended during the summer months.
  • Smith Rock State Park: Located to the north, featuring a walk-in bivouac area for tents. This is a popular spot for climbers and hikers alike.
  • BLM Dispersed Camping: There are various dispersed camping opportunities on BLM land surrounding the canyon. These sites have no facilities (no water, no toilets) and require strict adherence to Leave No Trace principles.
  • Bend Accommodation: A full range of hotels, motels, and holiday rentals are available in Bend, providing a comfortable return after a long day in the dust.

Required Gear

  • Sturdy Hiking Boots: Waterproofing is less critical than breathability and ankle support. The trail is rocky, and a stiff sole will protect your feet from fatigue.
  • Sun Protection: A wide-brimmed hat, high-SPF sunscreen, and UV-rated sunglasses are non-negotiable. The desert sun is intense and reflected off the canyon walls.
  • Lightweight Layers: Moisture-wicking synthetic or merino wool fabrics. Avoid cotton, which stays wet and can lead to chilling if the temperature drops.
  • Navigation Tools: A physical map and compass, supplemented by a GPS device or a smartphone with offline maps and a backup power bank.
  • First Aid Kit: Include blister plasters (moleskin), antiseptic wipes, bandages, and any personal medications. A pair of tweezers is useful for removing cactus spines or ticks.
  • Day Pack: A 20–30 litre pack with a comfortable hip belt to distribute the weight of your water and gear.
  • Emergency Whistle: For signalling in case of injury or becoming lost.

What to Bring

  • Water: Minimum of 3–4 litres per person. Do not rely on the river water unless you have a high-quality filter capable of removing agricultural runoff and pathogens. In summer, increase this to 5 litres.
  • High-Energy Food: A mix of complex carbohydrates and proteins. Think nuts, dried fruit, energy bars, and a substantial lunch. Salty snacks are important to replenish electrolytes lost through sweat.
  • Electrolyte Replenishment: Powdered drink mixes or tablets to add to your water.
  • Trowel and Toilet Paper: If you must go, you must bury waste 15–20 cm deep and at least 60 metres from the river. Pack out all used paper in a sealed plastic bag.
  • Hand Sanitiser: For hygiene after using the "outdoor facilities."
  • Knife or Multi-tool: For gear repairs or food preparation.
  • Headlamp: Even if you plan to be back by afternoon, a headlamp with spare batteries is an essential safety item in case of an unexpected delay.

Permits

[wakahi-visual2]

One of the great appeals of the Crooked River Trail is its accessibility. Currently, no permits are required for day hiking on this section of the river. There are no trailhead fees or parking passes mandated by the BLM at the primary access point, making it an excellent "spur-of-the-moment" adventure for those visiting Central Oregon.

Important Considerations:

  • Group Size: While no permit is needed, the BLM encourages small group sizes (typically 12 people or fewer) to minimise the impact on the trail and the experience of other hikers.
  • Commercial Use: If you are organising a guided trip or a commercial photography shoot, a Special Recreation Permit (SRP) from the BLM is required.
  • Fishing Licences: If you plan to fish in the Crooked River, you must possess a valid Oregon Angling Licence. These can be purchased online from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW) or at various retailers in Bend and Prineville. Be sure to check the current regulations for "Wild and Scenic" sections, as they often involve catch-and-release rules or specific lure requirements.
  • Future Changes: As Central Oregon grows in popularity, management agencies occasionally implement permit systems to protect overused areas. Always check the BLM Prineville District website before your trip to ensure regulations haven't changed.
Wakahi guide cover for crooked-river-trail

Wakahi Guide

Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Crooked River Trail (PDF).

Wakahi GPX cover for crooked-river-trail

Wakahi GPX

Precisely traced GPX for the Crooked River Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.

Other Activities in the Area

The Crooked River Trail is situated in one of the most recreation-rich regions of the United States. Consider these nearby activities to round out your trip:

  • Smith Rock State Park: Located just a short drive away, this is a world-renowned destination for rock climbing. Even if you don't climb, the hiking trails (such as Misery Ridge) offer breathtaking views of the Crooked River as it winds through towering tuff and basalt cliffs.
  • Fly Fishing: The Crooked River is famous for its high density of native redband trout. The section below Bowman Dam is particularly popular, offering year-round fishing opportunities in a stunning canyon setting.
  • Prineville Reservoir: A haven for water sports, including boating, paddleboarding, and swimming. It is also a designated International Dark Sky Park, making it one of the best places in Oregon for stargazing.
  • Bend Brewery Trail: After your hike, explore the vibrant craft beer scene in Bend. With over 20 breweries, it’s the perfect place to relax and recount your trail stories.
  • High Desert Museum: Located south of Bend, this museum offers incredible insights into the natural history, wildlife, and culture of the region. It’s an excellent way to provide context to the landscapes you’ve just walked.
  • Cycling: The roads around the Crooked River and the nearby Ochoco National Forest offer some of the best road and gravel cycling in the state.

Safety and Conditions

Environmental Hazards:

  • Heat and Exposure: This is the primary safety concern. The combination of high temperatures, low humidity, and intense UV radiation can lead to heatstroke very quickly. Always wear a hat, use sunblock, and drink water proactively—don't wait until you feel thirsty.
  • Rattlesnakes: The Western Rattlesnake is common in the Crooked River Canyon. They are generally shy and will avoid humans, but they may bask on the trail or hide in tall grass. Watch where you step, never put your hands where you can't see, and if you hear a rattle, stop, locate the snake, and give it a wide berth.
  • Ticks: Especially in the spring and early summer, ticks can be found in the brush along the trail. Wear long trousers tucked into socks and perform a thorough tick check after your hike.
  • Flash Floods: While rare, heavy thunderstorms in the summer can cause rapid rises in water levels or debris flows in side canyons. If you see dark clouds over the horizon or hear a distant roar, move to higher ground.

Trail Conditions:

  • Loose Terrain: The trail features sections of loose volcanic rock (scree) and sand. This can be slippery, especially on descents. Use trekking poles if you have balance concerns.
  • Overgrowth: In the late spring, the riparian vegetation can grow over the trail. Be cautious of "hidden" rocks or holes beneath the foliage.
  • Water Quality: Never drink directly from the river. The Crooked River watershed includes agricultural and grazing lands, meaning the water may contain bacteria, parasites, or chemical runoff. Use a filter rated for these contaminants or carry all your water.

Emergency Protocol:

  • Tell someone your plans: Always leave your itinerary and expected return time with a reliable person.
  • Stay put if lost: If you lose the trail, do not wander. Stay where you are, stay warm, and use your whistle to signal for help.
  • Personal Locator Beacon (PLB): Given the lack of mobile signal, carrying a satellite communication device (like a Garmin inReach or Zoleo) is highly recommended for solo hikers or those going deep into the canyon.

Side Trips and Points of Interest

The Palisades: These are the iconic basalt columns that define the canyon's architecture. Take a moment to look closely at the hexagonal patterns—a result of the lava cooling slowly and shrinking. They are a favourite subject for photographers, especially in the late afternoon when the "golden hour" light accentuates their texture.

Wildlife Viewing Blinds: While there are no formal structures, several natural rock outcrops along the trail serve as excellent vantage points for birdwatching. Bring a pair of binoculars to spot golden eagles soaring on the thermals or American dippers bobbing in the river shallows.

Hidden Alcoves: In certain sections, the canyon walls have small caves or overhanging "alcoves" created by wind and water erosion. These spots often stay significantly cooler than the rest of the trail and can provide a much-needed respite from the sun. Please do not deface these areas or leave any rubbish behind.

River Rapids: Depending on the water level, you may encounter sections where the river drops over basalt ledges, creating small but powerful rapids. The sound of the water here is a dramatic contrast to the silent stretches of the desert and provides a great spot for a meditative break.

Leave No Trace

[wakahi-visual3]

The high desert is a deceptively fragile environment. Footprints on the "cryptobiotic" soil—a living crust of cyanobacteria, lichens, and mosses—can take decades to recover. This crust is vital for preventing erosion and fixing nitrogen in the soil. Staying on the established trail is the most important thing you can do to protect this ecosystem.

The Seven Principles:

  • Plan Ahead and Prepare: Know the regulations and be ready for extreme weather.
  • Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: Stay on the trail. Avoid taking shortcuts on switchbacks, which causes severe erosion.
  • Dispose of Waste Properly: Pack out all rubbish, including organic waste like orange peels or apple cores, which do not decompose quickly in the desert and can harm wildlife.
  • Leave What You Find: Do not remove rocks, plants, or any historical artefacts. Take photos instead.
  • Minimise Campfire Impacts: Fires are generally prohibited in the canyon due to high wildfire risk. Use a lightweight stove for cooking if necessary.
  • Respect Wildlife: Observe from a distance. Never feed animals, as it habituates them to humans and can lead to their death.
  • Be Considerate of Other Visitors: Keep noise levels down. Yield to uphill hikers and share the trail with courtesy.

Other Trails You Might Like

[wakahi-extra-hikes]