Peru — Huaraz
Peru's Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit is a truly spectacular high-altitude trek, widely considered one of Earth's most breathtaking mountain journeys. This 130km loop through the Peruvian Andes traverses a compact yet incredibly jagged range, featuring formidable peaks like Yerupajá and Siula Grande. Expect demanding ascents, rugged terrain, and unparalleled panoramas on this very challenging 8-12 day expedition.
Distance: 130.0 km
Elevation Gain: 10000 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 8-12 days
The Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit is widely regarded by the international trekking community as one of the most spectacular high-altitude journeys on Earth. Located in the heart of the Peruvian Andes, this 130-kilometre loop traverses a compact but incredibly jagged mountain range that contains some of the most formidable peaks in South America, including the legendary Yerupajá (6,634 m)—the second-highest mountain in Peru—and the notorious Siula Grande, made famous by Joe Simpson’s survival epic, Touching the Void. Unlike the more crowded trails near Cusco, the Huayhuash offers a raw, uncompromising wilderness experience where the scale of the landscape is matched only by the physical challenge of the route. Every day on this circuit involves crossing high-altitude passes, most of which exceed 4,500 metres, providing trekkers with a constant, revolving panorama of turquoise glacial lakes, sprawling icefields, and vertical granite walls that seem to defy gravity.
The Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit is not merely a hike; it is a sustained high-altitude expedition that tests the limits of human endurance and rewards it with unparalleled natural beauty. While the nearby Cordillera Blanca is larger and more accessible, the Huayhuash is more intimate and dramatic. The range is only 30 kilometres long from north to south, yet it contains seven peaks over 6,000 metres and dozens over 5,000 metres. This density of giants means that trekkers are never far from the "the big walls." The circuit winds through deep valleys and over high ridges, offering a new perspective on the icy massifs of Jirishanca, Yerupajá Chico, and Sarapo every few hours. The terrain is a mix of dusty mule trails, steep scree slopes, and lush alpine meadows (puna) where llamas and alpacas graze under the watchful eyes of Andean condors.
The physical demands of the Huayhuash are significant. Over the course of 10 to 12 days, trekkers will accumulate approximately 10,000 metres of elevation gain. This is equivalent to climbing from sea level to the summit of Mount Everest and back down, then doing a significant portion of it again. The thin air is a constant factor; even the valley floors are higher than the highest peaks in the European Alps or the Rocky Mountains. Consequently, the rhythm of the trek is slow and deliberate. Success on the Huayhuash is determined not by speed, but by the body's ability to adapt to the lack of oxygen and the cold, crisp nights where temperatures frequently drop well below freezing.
Culturally, the trek provides a window into the lives of the Quechua-speaking communities that have inhabited these mountains for centuries. The circuit passes through several remote villages and community-managed lands. Unlike many national parks, the Huayhuash is a living landscape where traditional pastoralism continues alongside tourism. The "pagos" or trekking fees paid at each campsite go directly to the local communities, supporting schools, infrastructure, and conservation efforts. This unique management system ensures that the benefits of tourism are shared by those who call these high valleys home, creating a sense of partnership between the visitor and the local population.
The history of the Cordillera Huayhuash is a tapestry of ancient indigenous heritage, colonial influence, and modern mountaineering legend. For the Quechua people, these mountains are more than just geological features; they are Apus—powerful mountain spirits that protect the land and its inhabitants. The traditional routes used by trekkers today often follow the same paths used by ancient herders to move livestock between seasonal pastures. Evidence of pre-Inca and Inca influence can be found throughout the region, though the Huayhuash remained relatively isolated compared to the more central parts of the Inca Empire due to its rugged and vertical topography.
In the 20th century, the Huayhuash became a focal point for world-class mountaineering. The first ascent of Yerupajá in 1950 by Jim Maxwell and Dave Harrah marked the beginning of a golden age of Andean climbing. However, the range gained its most significant international fame through the harrowing story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates on Siula Grande in 1985. Their struggle for survival, documented in the book and film Touching the Void, transformed the Huayhuash into a place of pilgrimage for those fascinated by the limits of human willpower. Standing at the base of Siula Grande today, looking up at the chaotic icefall and the West Face, one cannot help but feel a profound sense of awe for the drama that unfolded there.
The region also navigated a difficult period in the 1980s and early 1990s during the internal conflict in Peru involving the Shining Path (Sendero Luminoso). For a time, the Huayhuash was considered too dangerous for tourism. However, since the mid-1990s, the region has seen a remarkable transformation. The local communities took charge of their security and the management of the trekking routes, leading to the peaceful and well-organised system in place today. The establishment of the Cordillera Huayhuash Private Conservation Area in 2002 was a landmark moment, formalising the protection of the range's biodiversity and water sources while ensuring the sustainable development of trekking tourism.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The trekking season in the Cordillera Huayhuash is dictated by the Andean weather cycle, which consists of a distinct dry season and a wet season. Because of the extreme altitudes, timing your visit is crucial for both safety and the quality of the views.
The Dry Season (May to September): This is the "Andean Summer" and the optimal time to trek. During these months, the weather is characterised by stable high-pressure systems that bring clear, deep-blue skies and brilliant sunshine. Visibility is at its peak, making it the best time for photography and for navigating the high passes. However, "dry" does not mean "warm." While daytime temperatures in the sun can be pleasant (15°C to 20°C), the lack of cloud cover means that heat escapes rapidly as soon as the sun sets. Night-time temperatures at campsites like Laguna Jahuacocha or Cuartelwain regularly drop to -5°C or even -10°C. Frost on tents is a daily occurrence.
The Shoulder Seasons (April and October): These months can be a gamble. April often sees the tail end of the rains, which leaves the mountains incredibly green and the wildflowers in full bloom, but the risk of afternoon storms remains high. October brings the first signs of the returning rains. Trekkers during these months will find fewer people on the trail but must be prepared for more volatile weather and potential snow on the higher passes.
The Wet Season (November to March): Trekking the full circuit during the wet season is generally not recommended for recreational hikers. Heavy rain in the valleys translates to significant snowfall on the passes, making them dangerous or impassable without technical gear. Clouds often shroud the peaks for days at a time, obscuring the very views that make the Huayhuash famous. Furthermore, the trails become extremely muddy and slippery, increasing the risk of injury. For those who do venture out, the landscape is lush and the solitude is absolute, but the physical toll is much higher.
Day 1: Huaraz to Llamac and Cuartelwain
Day 2: Cuartelwain to Laguna Mitucocha via Cacananpunta Pass
Day 3: Laguna Mitucocha to Laguna Carhuacocha via Carhuac Pass
Day 4: Laguna Carhuacocha to Huayhuash Camp via Siula Pass
Day 5: Huayhuash Camp to Viconga via Portachuelo de Huayhuash
Day 6: Viconga to Elefante Camp via Punta Cuyoc
Day 7: Elefante Camp to Huayllapa via San Antonio Pass (Optional)
Day 8: Huayllapa to Gashpapampa via Tapush Pass
Day 9: Gashpapampa to Laguna Jahuacocha via Yaucha Pass
Day 10: Laguna Jahuacocha to Llamac and Huaraz
Important Notes:
The most critical element of preparation for the Cordillera Huayhuash is acclimatisation. Attempting this trek without prior time at altitude is dangerous and likely to result in failure. Most trekkers base themselves in Huaraz for several days, completing "warm-up" hikes like Laguna 69 (4,600 m) or the Pastoruri Glacier. Physical fitness should be at a high level; you should be comfortable walking 6–8 hours a day for multiple days with significant elevation changes.
Logistically, you must decide between an organised tour or an independent trek. Organised tours provide a guide, a cook, and arrieros (muleteers) with donkeys. This allows you to walk with only a daypack, which is a significant advantage at 5,000 metres. If trekking independently, you must be self-sufficient with navigation, food, and gear, though you can still hire arrieros in Llamac or Pocpa. Coordination of transport from Huaraz to the trailhead is usually done via private taxi or the local "colectivo" bus system.
There are no huts or lodges on the Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit. This is a pure camping trek. You must bring a high-quality, four-season tent capable of withstanding strong winds and sub-zero temperatures.
Campsite Facilities:
What Campsites Don't Provide:
Booking and Costs:
Unlike the Inca Trail, the Cordillera Huayhuash does not require a single government-issued permit. Instead, the trail passes through the lands of several different rural communities (Comunidades Campesinas). Each community manages its own section of the trail and its own campsites. This decentralised system means you pay as you go.
The Payment Process:
Community Fees (Approximate):
Logistics and Strategy:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Huaraz is the "Outdoor Capital of Peru," and there is much to do before or after your Huayhuash trek:
Altitude Sickness (AMS): This is the primary safety concern on the Huayhuash. Acute Mountain Sickness can affect anyone, regardless of fitness. Symptoms include headache, nausea, dizziness, and fatigue. The only cure for severe AMS is descent. Trekkers should be aware of the more serious conditions: HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), which are life-threatening. Carry Diamox, stay hydrated, and never ignore persistent symptoms.
Weather and Exposure: The Andean weather can change in minutes. A sunny morning can turn into a blizzard on a 5,000-metre pass by midday. Hypothermia is a genuine risk if you get wet and the wind picks up. Always keep your waterproofs and a warm layer at the top of your pack. The sun at this altitude is incredibly strong; UV protection for skin and eyes is mandatory to prevent severe burns and snow blindness.
Water Safety: While the water in the Huayhuash looks pristine, the entire range is used for livestock grazing. Cows, sheep, and alpacas are present even at high altitudes. Consequently, all water sources are contaminated with bacteria and parasites like Giardia. Never drink untreated water. Use a high-quality filter or chemical treatment (chlorine dioxide).
Remote Location: There is no mobile phone coverage on 95% of the circuit. In the event of an injury, help can be days away. If you are trekking independently, a satellite communication device (Garmin inReach or Zoleo) is essential. If using an organised tour, ensure your guide carries a satellite phone and oxygen cylinders.
Security: While the region is now very safe, it is still wise to trek in a group and stay at designated campsites. The community fee system has largely eliminated the security issues of the past, as the local people now have a vested interest in the safety and well-being of trekkers.
Cerro San Antonio Viewpoint: Often considered the "secret" highlight of the trek. Instead of taking the standard valley route from Elefante Camp to Huayllapa, many trekkers opt to climb the San Antonio Pass. From the ridge, you look straight across the valley at the massive West Face of Siula Grande and Yerupajá. The scale is so immense it is difficult for the brain to process. The descent on the other side is a 1,000-metre "scree run" that is both terrifying and exhilarating.
Siula Grande Base Camp: For fans of Touching the Void, a short detour from the main trail near Sarapococha allows you to visit the site of Joe Simpson's base camp. Standing in the shadow of the mountain and looking up at the chaotic glacier where he crawled for three days is a powerful and humbling experience.
Laguna Jahuacocha: While this is a standard campsite on the final night, it is worth spending an extra day here if your schedule allows. The lake offers excellent trout fishing (with local permission) and several day-hike options to the base of the glaciers of Yerupajá and Jirishanca. The "Rasac" side trip from here provides a close-up view of the hanging glaciers on the western side of the range.
Termas de Atoc (Viconga Hot Springs): These natural volcanic springs have been developed into several concrete pools. After five days of cold Andean air and no showers, soaking in 38°C water while looking up at the stars and the surrounding peaks is a luxury that feels far more valuable than any five-star hotel.
The Cordillera Huayhuash is a fragile high-alpine ecosystem. The combination of extreme cold, thin soil, and high UV radiation means that plants grow very slowly and the environment takes a long time to recover from human impact. With the increasing popularity of the trek, adhering to Leave No Trace principles is essential to prevent the "loving to death" of this spectacular range.
Your responsibility as a walker:
By following these guidelines, you ensure that the Huayhuash remains as pristine for the next generation of trekkers as it was for the first explorers. Respect the land, the people, and the Apus.
