Peru — Huaraz
The Cordillera Blanca Traverse is a monumental 120km high-altitude route through Peru's Huascarán National Park. This very challenging 8-12 day trek traverses formidable passes exceeding 4,700 metres, offering unparalleled panoramas of iconic peaks like Alpamayo. Expect rugged alpine terrain and pristine wilderness on this demanding Andean journey.
Distance: 120.0 km
Elevation Gain: 7000 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 8-12 days
The Cordillera Blanca Traverse is a monumental high-altitude journey through the world's highest tropical mountain range. Stretching approximately 120 kilometres through the heart of Huascarán National Park—a UNESCO World Heritage site—this trek is a masterclass in Andean grandeur. Unlike the more crowded Santa Cruz trek, the full traverse explores remote valleys, crosses formidable passes exceeding 4,700 metres, and offers unparalleled views of iconic peaks such as Alpamayo, Artesonraju, and the twin summits of Huascarán. This is not merely a walk; it is an expedition into a landscape of turquoise glacial lagoons, ancient Polylepis forests, and vertical granite walls that have challenged mountaineers for over a century. Starting in the village of Cashapampa and winding through the northern and central sectors of the range, the traverse demands physical resilience, careful acclimatisation, and a deep respect for the volatile mountain weather of the Peruvian Andes.
The Cordillera Blanca, or "White Range," is a geological marvel located in the Ancash region of Peru. It contains over 30 peaks that soar above 6,000 metres and hundreds of glaciers that feed the rivers of the Santa Valley. The Traverse is the definitive way to experience this scale, moving beyond the standard three-day tourist loops into the deep wilderness of the range. The route is characterised by its dramatic verticality; trekkers spend the majority of their time between 3,800 and 4,800 metres, navigating a series of high passes that act as gateways between distinct ecological zones. One moment you are walking through a lush, humid valley floor filled with lupines and bromeliads, and the next you are standing on a jagged col, staring directly into the blue-ice heart of a hanging glacier.
The landscape is defined by its contrasts. The "Callejón de Huaylas," the wide valley to the west, provides a stark, arid backdrop to the ice-clad giants of the Blanca. Within the park, the silence is broken only by the thunder of distant avalanches or the cry of an Andean condor. The traverse is designed to showcase the diversity of the range, from the famous pyramid of Alpamayo—often cited as the most beautiful mountain in the world—to the hidden lakes of Huecrococha and Jancapampa. Because the route is remote and physically demanding, it sees a fraction of the traffic found on the Inca Trail or the Salkantay Trek, offering a sense of solitude that is increasingly rare in the global trekking circuit.
Success on the Cordillera Blanca Traverse is predicated on two factors: fitness and acclimatisation. The sheer amount of vertical gain and loss—averaging nearly 700 metres of ascent per day—will test even the strongest legs. However, the reward is a profound connection to one of the most spectacular mountain environments on Earth. Whether you are watching the sunrise hit the fluted ice walls of Taulliraju or sharing a campsite with local Quechua-speaking herders, the traverse provides an immersive cultural and natural experience that lingers long after the final descent.
The history of the Cordillera Blanca is a tapestry of ancient civilisation, colonial exploration, and modern mountaineering. Long before the first European climbers arrived, the region was home to the Chavín culture (1200–400 BC), one of the oldest and most influential pre-Inca civilisations in Peru. Their influence is still visible in the nearby ruins of Chavín de Huántar, and many of the paths used by modern trekkers follow ancient routes established by the Chavín and later the Inca Empire to connect the highlands with the coast. For the local Quechua communities, these mountains are not just scenery; they are "Apus," or mountain spirits, that command respect and provide the water essential for life in the valleys below.
In the 20th century, the Cordillera Blanca became a global focal point for mountaineering. The first ascent of Huascarán Sur (6,768 m) in 1932 by a German-Austrian expedition marked the beginning of a golden age of exploration. Since then, the range has seen legendary climbs on peaks like Alpamayo and Chacraraju. However, the history is also marked by tragedy. In 1970, a massive earthquake triggered a catastrophic debris flow from the north peak of Huascarán, burying the town of Yungay and killing over 20,000 people. This event remains a somber reminder of the power of the landscape and is commemorated at the Yungay Memorial Cemetery, which many trekkers visit before starting their journey.
Huascarán National Park was established in 1975 to protect the unique biodiversity and geological features of the range. Today, the park manages the delicate balance between conservation and tourism. Trekkers on the traverse will encounter local pastoralists grazing sheep and llamas in the high "puna" grasslands, maintaining a way of life that has changed little over centuries. Understanding this cultural layer—the deep spiritual connection to the peaks and the resilience of the mountain people—is essential to fully appreciating the Cordillera Blanca Traverse.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The trekking season in the Cordillera Blanca is dictated by the "Andean Summer," which runs from May to September. This is the dry season, characterised by stable weather, clear blue skies (known as "Cielo Serrano"), and intense solar radiation during the day. While this is the best time for trekking, it is also the coldest. At altitudes above 4,000 metres, temperatures can plummet to -10°C or lower once the sun sets. Trekkers must be prepared for a massive diurnal temperature range—stripping down to a t-shirt during a steep climb in the midday sun, only to don a heavy down jacket minutes after reaching camp.
June and July are the peak months, offering the most reliable weather but also the highest number of visitors on the more popular sections of the trail. May and September are excellent shoulder months, often providing a lush, green landscape following the rains, though the risk of afternoon showers increases. In August, the "Veranillo" (little summer) often brings a period of exceptionally clear weather, though high winds on the passes can become a factor.
The wet season, from October to April, is generally avoided for the full traverse. Heavy rain, thick mist, and snow at higher elevations make the passes dangerous and the views non-existent. Trails can become extremely muddy and river crossings, which are common on the traverse, can become impassable. Furthermore, the risk of lightning strikes on high ridges is a genuine concern during the summer months. For those attempting the traverse, the dry season window is narrow but spectacular, offering the crisp, high-contrast light that makes the Peruvian Andes a photographer's dream.
Day 1: Cashapampa to Llamacorral
Day 2: Llamacorral to Taullipampa
Day 3: Taullipampa to Paria via Punta Union
Day 4: Paria to Molino Pampa
Day 5: Molino Pampa to Avalancha
Day 6: Avalancha to Tuctubamba via Yanayacu Pass
Day 7: Tuctubamba to Huecrococha via Alto de Pucaraju
Day 8: Huecrococha to Jancapampa via Tupatupa Pass
Day 9: Jancapampa to Willca via Yanacon Pass
Day 10: Willca to Vaqueria and Departure
The Cordillera Blanca Traverse is a serious undertaking that requires meticulous planning. The most critical factor is acclimatisation. Huaraz sits at 3,050 metres, which is already high enough to cause symptoms of altitude sickness. It is strongly recommended to spend at least three full days in Huaraz before starting the traverse, undertaking day hikes to higher elevations (such as Laguna Wilcacocha or Laguna 69) to prepare your body. Fitness should be at a high level; you should be comfortable walking 7–9 hours a day with significant elevation changes for multiple consecutive days.
Logistically, Huaraz is the primary hub. It is an 8-hour bus ride from Lima. The city is well-equipped with trekking agencies, gear rental shops, and supermarkets. While it is possible to trek independently, many people hire a guide, a cook, and "arrieros" (donkey drivers) to carry the bulk of the gear. This not only supports the local economy but also significantly increases the safety and enjoyment of the trip at these extreme altitudes.
There are no huts or permanent lodges along the Cordillera Blanca Traverse. This is a pure camping expedition. You must be self-sufficient or part of an organised group that provides all camping equipment.
Camping Facilities:
What is NOT Provided:
Access to the Cordillera Blanca Traverse is regulated by the Huascarán National Park authority (SERNANP). Unlike the Inca Trail, there is no daily limit on the number of trekkers, and permits do not need to be booked months in advance. However, you must possess a valid park entrance ticket and register your itinerary at the park offices or trailhead control points.
Permit Costs and Logistics:
Independent vs. Guided: While a guide is not legally mandatory for the traverse, the park authority strongly recommends using licensed UIAGM/AGMP guides for remote routes. If you are hiring donkeys or a cook, ensure they are part of a registered association, as they will have the necessary insurance and park clearances.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Cordillera Blanca Traverse (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Cordillera Blanca Traverse, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Ancash region is the adventure capital of Peru. Consider these activities to complement your traverse:
Altitude Sickness (AMS): This is the primary risk on the traverse. With multiple passes over 4,500 m, Acute Mountain Sickness is common. Symptoms include headache, nausea, and dizziness. The only cure is descent. More serious conditions like HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) are life-threatening and require immediate evacuation. Always follow the "climb high, sleep low" rule and stay hydrated.
Weather Volatility: Even in the dry season, the Andes can produce sudden, violent storms. Whiteout conditions on passes like Punta Union or Yanayacu can make navigation impossible. Always carry a compass and GPS, and be prepared to wait out bad weather in your tent. Lightning is a significant hazard on ridges; if a storm approaches, descend from high ground immediately.
Water Safety: The Cordillera Blanca has a high density of livestock (cows, sheep, donkeys). Consequently, almost all water sources are contaminated with parasites like Giardia. Never drink untreated water. Use a filter that removes bacteria and protozoa, and consider chemical treatment for viruses if trekking near settlements.
Remote Location: There is no formal mountain rescue service in Peru comparable to the Alps. In an emergency, rescue is often organised by the High Mountain Police (USAM) or local guides. A Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) or satellite messenger (e.g., Garmin inReach) is highly recommended, as there is no mobile signal in the valleys.
Travel insurance: Ensure your policy specifically covers "trekking up to 5,000 metres" and includes emergency helicopter evacuation. Many standard policies exclude high-altitude activities.
Alpamayo Base Camp: A popular detour from the Santa Cruz section of the traverse. A 2-hour climb from the main trail leads to the base camp of Alpamayo (5,947 m). From here, you can see the famous fluted ice face that earned it the title of "World's Most Beautiful Mountain." The view of the sunset hitting the peak is a highlight for many trekkers.
Laguna Arhuaycocha: Located near the Alpamayo Base Camp, this glacial lake is surrounded by vertical granite walls and hanging glaciers. It is a peaceful spot for a lunch break and offers a close-up look at the process of glacial calving.
Portachuelo de Llanganuco: While usually part of the vehicle exit, this pass (4,765 m) offers perhaps the most famous view in the Andes. You can see Huascarán Norte and Sur, Huandoy, Pisco, and Chacraraju all in one frame, with the turquoise Llanganuco lakes shimmering 1,000 metres below.
Ancient Polylepis Forests: Throughout the traverse, you will walk through groves of Polylepis trees (known locally as "Queñua"). These are the highest-growing trees in the world, characterised by their papery, reddish bark and twisted trunks. They are a vital habitat for rare bird species and represent a prehistoric ecosystem that once covered much of the Andes.
Huascarán National Park is a fragile high-altitude ecosystem. The combination of extreme cold and thin air means that organic waste takes years, or even decades, to decompose. With increasing numbers of trekkers, the impact on the environment is significant. It is the responsibility of every trekker to minimise their footprint.
Core Principles for the Andes:
