France — Chamonix
Traverse France's French Alps on the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, an 85km demanding circuit of interconnected mountain passes. This 5-7 day high-altitude route winds through dramatic alpine wilderness, past glacial lakes and over rugged ridges, offering spectacular panoramas. Expect challenging ascents and descents across varied terrain, including scree slopes and exposed sections.
Distance: 85.0 km
Elevation Gain: 5500 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 5-7 days
The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme is a challenging multi-day walk traversing the French Alps, offering a spectacular high-altitude experience. This route is not a single, defined track like some famous long-distance paths, but rather a collection of interconnected trails and mountain passes that form a demanding circuit. It winds through dramatic alpine landscapes, past glacial lakes, over rugged mountain passes, and through charming mountain villages. The trail is renowned for its breathtaking panoramic views, diverse flora and fauna, and the sense of accomplishment that comes from navigating such a wild and beautiful environment.
The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme walk is an immersion into the heart of the French Alps, a region celebrated for its rugged beauty and challenging terrain. This route is best described as a high-level traverse, connecting several significant mountain passes and valleys, with the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme itself being a prominent landmark. The journey typically begins in the picturesque valley town of Les Contamines-Montjoie, a gateway to the Vanoise National Park and the Mont Blanc massif. From here, the trail ascends steadily, gradually revealing the immense scale of the surrounding peaks and glaciers.
The path is characterised by its varied terrain. You will encounter well-maintained GR (Grande Randonnée) paths, rocky scree slopes, high alpine meadows bursting with wildflowers in summer, and sections that require careful navigation. The elevation gain is substantial, with numerous ascents and descents that test endurance and fitness. The reward for this effort is unparalleled. Expect to be surrounded by a panorama of snow-capped peaks, including views towards the Mont Blanc range on clear days. The air is crisp and clean, and the silence of the high mountains is broken only by the sound of wind, distant cowbells, or the call of alpine birds.
This walk is not for the faint-hearted. It demands a good level of physical fitness, experience with mountain terrain, and the ability to navigate. However, for those who are prepared, the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme offers an unforgettable adventure, a chance to disconnect from the everyday and reconnect with the raw power and beauty of the natural world. The sense of solitude and achievement at the summit of a pass, with the vast alpine landscape stretching out before you, is profoundly rewarding.
The region surrounding the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme has a rich history deeply intertwined with pastoralism, trade, and pilgrimage. For centuries, these high mountain pastures have been used for summer grazing by livestock, a tradition that continues to this day. The presence of shepherds and their flocks has shaped the landscape and the local culture, with many of the mountain huts (refuges) along the route having origins as simple shelters for these pastoralists.
The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme itself has historically been an important crossing point. Its name, translating to "Pass of the Good Man," is believed to derive from a chapel or shrine dedicated to a benevolent figure, possibly a saint or a local benefactor, that once stood near the pass. Such landmarks often served as points of reference and spiritual solace for travellers navigating the challenging alpine terrain. The pass would have been used by traders, pilgrims, and local communities moving between valleys and regions, connecting the Savoie region with Italy.
The development of modern hiking trails, including the GR routes that often form the backbone of this traverse, began in the 20th century. These routes were established to make the mountains more accessible for recreation and tourism, while also preserving the traditional paths and cultural heritage of the region. The Vanoise National Park, established in 1963, plays a crucial role in protecting the natural environment and its historical significance, ensuring that the wild beauty and cultural legacy of the Alps are maintained for future generations.
The optimal season for walking the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme is during the summer months, from June to September. During this period, the snow has largely receded from the higher passes, and the weather is generally more stable, although alpine conditions can change rapidly at any time.
June: Early June can still see significant snow cover on the higher passes, particularly on north-facing slopes. Some mountain refuges may not yet be fully operational. Wildflowers begin to bloom in the lower valleys, but the higher alpine meadows are still awakening. Days are long, offering ample daylight for hiking.
July and August: These are the peak months for wildflowers, with alpine meadows transforming into vibrant carpets of colour. The weather is typically at its warmest and most stable, though thunderstorms are common in the afternoons. This is also the busiest period, with refuges requiring advance booking. The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme and surrounding passes offer spectacular, unobstructed views.
September: September offers a beautiful autumn palette in the lower valleys, with crisp, clear air and fewer crowds. The higher passes may experience early snowfalls, especially towards the end of the month. The light can be particularly beautiful for photography, and the cooler temperatures can make for more comfortable hiking. However, days are shorter, and the risk of unpredictable weather increases.
Weather: The Alps are notorious for their unpredictable weather. Even in summer, you can experience sunshine, rain, hail, and strong winds all within a single day. Temperatures can drop significantly at higher altitudes, especially at night. It is crucial to be prepared for all conditions, including cold and wet weather, regardless of the season.
Day 1: Les Contamines-Montjoie to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme
Day 2: Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme to Refuge des Lacs Merlet
Day 3: Refuge des Lacs Merlet to Refuge de la Femma
Day 4: Refuge de la Femma to Refuge du Plan de la Lai
Day 5: Refuge du Plan de la Lai to Les Contamines-Montjoie
Note: This is a sample itinerary. The exact route and daily distances can vary significantly based on chosen paths, refuges, and personal pace. Always consult detailed maps and guidebooks for precise route planning.
The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme is a challenging trek that requires thorough preparation. Given its alpine nature, fitness is paramount. Aim to have a solid base level of cardiovascular fitness, with regular hiking experience that includes significant elevation gain and carrying a loaded backpack. Practice hiking on varied terrain, including rocky and uneven paths, to prepare your body for the demands of the trail.
Logistics are key. The nearest major city and transport hub is Chamonix. From Geneva Airport (GVA), you can take a bus or train to Chamonix. From Chamonix, a local bus service connects to Les Contamines-Montjoie, the primary trailhead for this route. If driving, the A40 motorway provides access to the region, with parking available in Les Contamines. It is advisable to arrive in Les Contamines at least one day before starting your trek to acclimatise, finalise gear, and confirm transport arrangements.
Booking accommodation in mountain refuges is essential, especially during the peak summer months (July and August). Many refuges are popular and can book up weeks or even months in advance. It is highly recommended to book all your accommodation before you depart. Consider purchasing detailed topographic maps of the area and a guidebook to assist with navigation and route planning.
The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme route typically involves staying in mountain refuges (refuges de montagne) or, in some cases, simpler bivouac shelters or designated camping areas (where permitted and available). These refuges offer basic but comfortable accommodation, usually in dormitory-style rooms with bunk beds.
Refuge Facilities:
What's NOT Provided:
Booking Requirements:
Seasonal Availability: Most refuges are open from mid-June to mid-September, depending on snow conditions and demand. Always check the specific opening dates for the refuges you plan to use.
For general hiking and staying in the mountain refuges along the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme route, no specific permits are required in the same way as for some national parks or protected areas. However, it is crucial to understand that staying in mountain refuges necessitates advance booking and payment. These refuges are privately or communally managed, and their services are paid for.
Refuge Bookings:
Vanoise National Park Regulations: While no specific hiking permit is needed, the Vanoise National Park has regulations in place to protect its environment. These typically include rules against:
Always familiarise yourself with the specific regulations of the Vanoise National Park before your trip.
Trail Access: The trails themselves are generally open to the public. The route is often part of the GR (Grande Randonnée) network, which is maintained for public access.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Col Croix Bonhomme (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Col Croix Bonhomme, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The region around the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme offers a wealth of activities for those looking to extend their stay or explore beyond the main hiking route:
Pre-Trip Checks:
Alpine Hazards:
Refuge Safety:
Communication: Mobile phone signal is often non-existent in the mountains. Consider carrying a personal locator beacon (PLB) or satellite messenger for emergencies.
Travel Insurance: Ensure your travel insurance covers hiking at altitude and potential emergency evacuation.
Col des Fours: A challenging but rewarding detour from the main route, often taken on Day 2. This pass offers even more expansive views and a true sense of high alpine wilderness. It requires good navigation skills and is best attempted in clear weather.
Lac des Lacs Merlet: A series of beautiful alpine lakes that provide a stunning setting for a night's stay or a midday break. The reflections of the surrounding peaks in the clear water are particularly picturesque.
The Vanoise National Park: The entire route traverses or borders the Vanoise National Park, France's first national park. It is a haven for wildlife, including ibex, chamois, marmots, and a rich diversity of alpine flora. Keep an eye out for these creatures and the vibrant wildflowers that carpet the meadows in summer.
Traditional Alpine Villages: The starting and ending point, Les Contamines-Montjoie, is a charming example of a traditional Savoyard village. Exploring its streets, architecture, and local culture adds another dimension to the trip.
Panoramic Viewpoints: Numerous points along the trail offer breathtaking panoramic views. The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme itself provides a spectacular vantage point, as do many of the higher sections of the route, offering vistas of the Mont Blanc massif and the surrounding French and Italian Alps.
The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme route traverses sensitive alpine environments, including the Vanoise National Park. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is crucial to preserving this pristine landscape for future generations and for the enjoyment of all who walk here.
Plan Ahead and Prepare: Research your route, book accommodation in advance, and be aware of local regulations. Pack appropriately for all weather conditions to avoid unnecessary risks or reliance on local resources.
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: Stick to marked trails to avoid damaging fragile alpine vegetation. If camping is permitted in designated areas, use established sites. In refuges, follow the designated sleeping areas.
Dispose of Waste Properly: Pack out everything you pack in, including all food scraps, wrappers, and any other litter. Use designated toilet facilities in refuges. If no facilities are available, dig a cathole at least 60 metres away from water sources, trails, and campsites.
Leave What You Find: Do not remove plants, rocks, or any natural or cultural artifacts. Take only photographs and memories.
Minimise Campfire Impacts: Campfires are generally prohibited in alpine environments and national parks. Use a lightweight stove for cooking.
Respect Wildlife: Observe wildlife from a distance. Never feed animals, as this can disrupt their natural behaviours and diets. Store food securely to prevent attracting animals.
Be Considerate of Other Visitors: Keep noise levels down, especially in refuges and natural areas. Yield to others on narrow trails. Respect the peace and solitude of the mountains.
