France — Pau
Ascend to the iconic Col d'Aubisque on this moderate 70km loop through France's Pyrenean wilderness. Traverse high alpine pastures, windswept passes, and dramatic valleys, encountering traditional Basque culture and breathtaking panoramas. This 6-8 hour circular route offers a quintessential mountain experience with varied terrain and stunning vistas.
Distance: 70.0 km
Elevation Gain: 1500 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 6-8 hours
The Col d'Aubisque Loop is a captivating multi-day walk nestled in the heart of the French Pyrenees, offering a rich tapestry of dramatic mountain scenery, traditional Basque culture, and challenging yet rewarding terrain. This circular route, primarily traversing the Ossau Valley and the iconic Col d'Aubisque, provides a quintessential Pyrenean experience. Hikers will traverse high mountain pastures dotted with grazing sheep and cattle, ascend to windswept passes offering panoramic vistas, and descend into verdant valleys dotted with charming villages. The loop is renowned for its accessibility to stunning alpine environments without requiring extreme mountaineering skills, making it a popular choice for those seeking a substantial mountain adventure with a touch of local flavour.
The Col d'Aubisque Loop is a journey through a landscape that has been shaped by both nature and centuries of human interaction. The route offers a compelling blend of high-altitude exposure and gentle valley walking. Expect to encounter vast, open mountain pastures, often referred to as "estives," where livestock graze freely during the summer months. These high meadows are a defining feature, providing a sense of wildness and a connection to the pastoral traditions of the Pyrenees.
The Col d'Aubisque itself is a famous cycling climb, and walking over it offers a different perspective. The views from the col are expansive, stretching across the surrounding peaks and valleys. The route often follows well-maintained GR (Grande Randonnée) paths, interspersed with more rugged sections that require careful navigation. The elevation gain, while not extreme, is spread across several days, making it a manageable challenge for fit hikers. The descent into the Ossau Valley reveals a different character of the Pyrenees, with more sheltered forests, rushing rivers, and picturesque villages that offer a glimpse into the Basque and Béarnaise cultures.
The loop is designed to be flexible, allowing for variations in daily mileage and overnight stops. This adaptability is a key feature, enabling hikers to tailor the experience to their fitness levels and preferences. The presence of mountain refuges and gîtes d'étape (hiker's hostels) along the route provides comfortable resting points, though wild camping is also an option in designated areas, offering a more immersive wilderness experience.
The Pyrenees, and specifically the Ossau Valley, have a long and rich history of human settlement and transhumance—the seasonal movement of livestock between summer pastures in the mountains and wintering grounds in the lowlands. For centuries, shepherds have guided their flocks to the high "estives" of the Col d'Aubisque and surrounding plateaus, a practice that continues to this day and shapes the landscape you will traverse. The stone shelters and shepherd's huts found in these high pastures are testaments to this enduring tradition.
The Col d'Aubisque itself gained significant fame through cycling, particularly its inclusion in the Tour de France. Its challenging gradients and dramatic setting have made it a legendary ascent for professional cyclists and amateur enthusiasts alike. The presence of the "Fontaine de Jouvence" (Fountain of Youth) at the col, a natural spring that has been a site of pilgrimage and local legend for generations, adds a layer of mystique to the area.
The villages along the route, such as Laruns, are steeped in Béarnaise and Basque culture. These communities have historically relied on agriculture, pastoralism, and, more recently, tourism. The architecture, local cuisine, and traditions reflect a unique blend of influences from both the French and Spanish sides of the Pyrenees. The GR (Grande Randonnée) network, which forms a significant part of this loop, is a testament to the French tradition of marking and maintaining long-distance hiking trails, making them accessible to a wide range of walkers.
The prime season for hiking the Col d'Aubisque Loop is from June to September. During these months, the weather is generally most favourable, with longer daylight hours and a higher probability of clear skies.
June: The mountains begin to awaken. Wildflowers are abundant in the lower and mid-altitudes, creating a vibrant carpet of colour. Snow may still linger at higher elevations, particularly on north-facing slopes, potentially requiring careful route selection or early season adjustments. Days are long, offering ample time for hiking.
July and August: These are the warmest months, ideal for high-altitude trekking. The "estives" are fully active with grazing livestock, and the mountain refuges are typically open. This is also the busiest period, so booking accommodation in advance is highly recommended. Expect warm days, but be prepared for sudden thunderstorms, which are common in the Pyrenees during summer afternoons. Temperatures can still drop significantly at night, especially at higher elevations.
September: The autumn colours begin to emerge, offering a different kind of beauty to the landscape. The crowds thin out, and the weather can be very pleasant, with crisp air and clear skies. However, the days are shorter, and the possibility of early snow increases towards the end of the month. Some mountain refuges may begin to close towards the end of September.
Weather Considerations: The Pyrenees are known for their rapidly changing weather. Even in summer, conditions can shift from warm sunshine to heavy rain, fog, and strong winds within a matter of hours. It is crucial to be prepared for all eventualities, regardless of the season. Hypothermia is a risk, even in summer, at higher altitudes.
Day 1: Laruns to Refuge de la Pène de Blachère (or nearby gîte)
Day 2: Refuge de la Pène de Blachère to Col d'Aubisque
Day 3: Col d'Aubisque to Refuge de Labérouat (or nearby)
Day 4: Refuge de Labérouat to Laruns
Notes:
The Col d'Aubisque Loop is a moderate multi-day hike that requires good physical fitness and preparation. Before embarking, ensure you have a solid understanding of the route, weather conditions, and available accommodation. The nearest major city with an airport is Pau. From Pau, you can take a bus or hire a car to reach Laruns, the primary gateway town for this loop. Laruns offers a range of amenities, including accommodation, restaurants, and outdoor gear shops. It's advisable to spend at least one night in Laruns before starting your hike to finalise preparations and acclimatise.
Logistics involve planning your daily stages, booking accommodation in advance (especially during July and August), and arranging transport to and from Laruns. Consider the time of year carefully, as snow can persist at higher elevations well into June, and early snow can occur in September.
Accommodation along the Col d'Aubisque Loop varies from basic mountain refuges to more comfortable gîtes d'étape and village hotels. Booking in advance is strongly recommended, particularly during the peak summer months of July and August.
Mountain Refuges (e.g., Refuge de la Pène de Blachère, Refuge de Labérouat):
Gîtes d'Étape and Village Hotels (e.g., in Laruns, at Col d'Aubisque):
Wild Camping: Permitted in some areas, but always check local regulations. If camping, ensure you are discreet, leave no trace, and camp away from water sources and marked trails.
The Col d'Aubisque Loop, as a marked hiking trail primarily utilising GR routes and public land, generally does not require specific permits for hiking or wild camping in designated areas. However, it is crucial to be aware of local regulations and any potential restrictions, especially concerning camping.
General Guidelines:
Recommendation: Before your trip, it is advisable to contact the local tourist office in Laruns or the Parc National des Pyrénées for the most up-to-date information on any specific regulations or recommendations for the areas you intend to hike and camp.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Col Aubisque Loop (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Col Aubisque Loop, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Ossau Valley and the surrounding Pyrenean region offer a wealth of activities beyond hiking:
Weather: The Pyrenean weather can be unpredictable. Be prepared for rapid changes, including sudden thunderstorms, fog, and strong winds, even in summer. Always check the mountain forecast before setting out each day. Temperatures can drop significantly at higher altitudes, and hypothermia is a risk.
Navigation: While the GR routes are generally well-marked, it is essential to carry a map and compass and know how to use them. Visibility can be severely reduced in fog or bad weather, making navigation challenging. Offline maps on a GPS device or smartphone are also highly recommended.
Terrain: The loop involves varied terrain, from well-maintained paths to rocky and uneven sections. Good hiking boots are crucial for ankle support and grip. Be mindful of loose scree and slippery surfaces, especially after rain.
Water: Water sources are generally available along the route, particularly in valleys and near refuges. However, it is always recommended to treat water from natural sources using a filter or purification tablets to avoid waterborne illnesses.
Livestock: You will likely encounter grazing livestock, including cattle and sheep, especially in the high mountain pastures ("estives"). Maintain a safe distance, do not disturb them, and keep dogs under close control if you have one. Rams can be protective of their flocks.
Emergency: In case of an emergency, know how to contact local rescue services. The European emergency number is 112. Carry a fully charged mobile phone, but be aware that mobile signal can be intermittent in mountainous areas. Consider carrying a personal locator beacon (PLB) for remote sections.
Physical Fitness: This is a moderate-difficulty hike with significant elevation changes. Ensure you have adequate fitness and have trained for multi-day trekking with a backpack. Pace yourself and take regular breaks.
Fontaine de Jouvence (Fountain of Youth): Located at the Col d'Aubisque, this natural spring is a local legend. It's said to have healing properties and has been a site of pilgrimage for centuries. Take a moment to drink from it and soak in the history and mystique of the col.
Shepherd's Huts and Hamlets: As you traverse the "estives," you'll encounter numerous stone shepherd's huts and small hamlets. These offer a glimpse into the traditional pastoral life of the Pyrenees. Many are still used during the summer months.
Panoramic Viewpoints: The Col d'Aubisque itself offers spectacular 360-degree views. Throughout the hike, particularly on the high ridges and passes, you will find numerous viewpoints offering breathtaking vistas of the surrounding Pyrenean peaks, valleys, and the Ossau Valley stretching out below.
Local Villages: Detouring into villages like Laruns, Eaux-Bonnes, or Eaux-Chaudes can be a rewarding experience. These villages offer a chance to sample local cuisine, visit traditional markets, and admire the distinctive Béarnaise and Basque architecture.
Pic du Midi d'Ossau: While not directly on the loop, the majestic Pic du Midi d'Ossau is a prominent landmark visible from many points along the route. For experienced mountaineers, it's a challenging but rewarding climb.
The Col d'Aubisque Loop traverses beautiful and sensitive mountain environments. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is crucial to preserving the natural beauty and ecological integrity of the Pyrenees for future generations.
Plan Ahead and Prepare: Research your route, understand the terrain and weather, and pack appropriately. Know the regulations regarding camping and fires.
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: Stick to marked trails to avoid damaging fragile vegetation. If camping, choose established campsites or durable surfaces like rock or gravel, well away from water sources.
Dispose of Waste Properly: Pack out everything you pack in, including all food scraps, wrappers, and toilet paper. Use designated toilets where available. If wild camping, dig a cathole at least 60 metres from water, trails, and campsites for human waste, and pack out all toilet paper.
Leave What You Find: Do not remove rocks, plants, or any natural or cultural artifacts. Take only photographs and memories.
Minimize Campfire Impacts: Campfires are often prohibited in mountain areas due to fire risk and environmental impact. If permitted and necessary, use established fire rings and keep fires small. Ensure fires are completely extinguished before leaving.
Respect Wildlife: Observe wildlife from a distance. Never feed animals, as it can disrupt their natural behaviours and diets. Store food securely to prevent attracting animals.
Be Considerate of Other Visitors: Keep noise levels down, especially in refuges and natural areas. Yield to other hikers on narrow trails. Respect the local culture and traditions.
